I liked it, glad you didn't throw the videos away. Thank you.

I have that exact same chuck on my 1956 Australian made Hercus 9" lathe, has the same markings as yours. The lathe was made down under but not sure who made the chuck. I also recently did the strip and clean and had a hell of a time trying to true it up again.

I was given the Brooks settle with cracked leather I thought I could get it repaired to no avail. I want to save it so bad.

E display = AC voltage

In the UK I bought my collets from RDG and Chronos, both are nicely made, accurate and not at all expensive, more than from China but a lot less than a brand name. Most Chinese direct tooling is poor, buy from a reputable dealer if you want accuracy. An amusing fault I found recently on an R8 adaptor was the drawbar hole drilled at an angle, how do they even manage to do that?

Where is this located as i have one my self for parts

I don't think the packing under the tool holder helps

Tiene que ser viejo el aceite de frenos o puede ser nuevo igual?

I bought the next model down to remove a broken tap. Worked as advertized. You can drill any size hole that you can find a brass rod for.

Lol…. You are a good video maker… i enjoyed it.. keep it up… you may be bored but I’m not! You provided me humor

Did you think to clean-out the slits? Sometimes manufacturing debris gets in them & messing with the clamping.

Sand a little with 36 to 80 grit, apply bf, cover with plastic, leave it in the shade, repeat bf if necessary

Ways Oil E38 is what you should have used...

Scraping the collet with a knife blade, do you really thing this is a good idea?? Awful.

Can you sent the manual copy of that sir

The grooves are to let your hand tell where the end is

two steel balls in the set screw holes ..

Kudos for sticking with it and finishing the video.

Excellent work on the leather, congratulations You need to clean the metal of rust

DCMT are finishing inserts, high speed low feed, it's pointless using that at the opposite. You better check them on a bigger diameter at 200~250min cutting speed, without interrupted cut and with a feed of max half the tip radius. That kind of test is good for a CNMG/SNMG P25/P30 carbide.

"ZU" = close, "AUF" = open ;)

Any update on the brooks saddle how was the brake in

Guys collets are very important parts, never buy cheap one, i had a bad experice with cheap one, not accurate ( ex-centric) , dont hold the tool well, they break easy, in the middle of a job, i had to change with old original french brand, big difference.

18 hole egg carton makes a good storage for collets

How would you change the saw blade?

Measuring with those calipers in the way he indicated, and then using trigonometry and determining you're 0.1mm over is fairly ridiculous. The collet taper is known, so the amount protruding actually could be used to Measure the diameter.

Bump

Bump

This second-hand keyless drill chuck is severely worn, has lost its accuracy, and is generally of no use value. But your craftsmanship is great and you dismantle it very carefully. I give you a thumbs up.

Viebahn power hacksaw ? I bought the same for 50 €..

don't smoosh threads

Доброго вечора яб хотів Вас попросити розміри шестерні гітари

You will probably find if you tighten up the bed and cross feed your finish will change instantly. The pressure on the tool tip is fluctuating from the loose bed and crossfeed. If this does not work check your spindle movement.

Now you just need a good drill press

Love your work 😉😁👍

Get it Bud!

total fuc.... waste of my time.

Very nice lathe. I don’t however know how you work with the noise of the motor. You are a better man than me. He he. It would frustrate me.

Interesting. Nice idea

Good idea.

Nice job

Nice work

Nice job

Tell us you have got a vice by now.....? 🤣

Is Rolingmetal still around? i haven't seen any new videos in a couple of years.

I had the same problem however instead of creating a hockey puck as you called it I ended up going with a larger diameter draw-stud and the way I got around the clearance problem of having a large nut and box wrench or socket wrench on the top is by going with the poly lock system that the American Hot Rod scene uses on big V8 valve train Adjusters. Just Google Crower cams or Comp Cams and plug in Poly Locks. They are made of heat treated tool steel and also fine threaded. Works like a charm... also you use a hex key or Allen key as we call it in the States to perform tightening and loosening---and that is how you get around the clearance issue in top and this is exactly why poly locks were invented because the High Performance Engine tuners have the same tight clearance issue with adjusting their exotic valve trains. Nice video thank you for taking the time to walk us through it. Slso I might add your English both conversational and technical is phenomenal. Keep up the good work! By the way I'm coming back with an edit I left out and intuitive but important detail I apologize it's been a while you will see in the Poly lock as the word Poly suggests there's more than one part to it There is the actual threaded nut if you will ....and then there is a set screw that's used as a jam Bolt You need to make them one I had a friend of mine who's very skilled on TIG welding TIG weld the Jam set screw to the internally threaded poly nut You could also drill and pin it with a dowel and just grind it smooth there's different ways it's heat treated to be tough but it's not hardened so you can machine these parts. That's it. Once you Google the part and see how it works it'll immediately become intuitive

仕上げ用のバイトは刃先をラッピングします。 日本では、刃先を殺すと言います。

i gave up reground my collet chuck and bought a few high precision collets

I like DIY I wonder if you would have had better success if you used the cross slide to advance the drill this way, you could polish up the bar/holder and you would have a better chance at mating them. a single bearing surface I think works better than a sliding surface, as you have far more torque etc to cause friction polish the bar and the holder just where they mesh, and put stop collars on the bar so it can't move. you'll use less oil for lube and retain the surface of the bearing area

Great work😉