02 ranger cam synchronizer replace

[@leestephenson4952]

Consider yourself glad. This really helped me. Clearest tutorial I’ve run across. Really hoping this is the fix. Been very frustrating. Like so many others, I tried the fuel delivery & ignition modules. Being ignorant & totally lost because of no distributor. Not until I worded my inquiry just right, did cam synchronizer come up. Thanks man.

[@dakotasuttles8395]

This was the most helpful video I’ve seen. Thank you!

[@marknewton8530]

Great video. Simple explanations. Will be doing this today. THANKS!

[@FINELINEVAN]

great video on how to replace and set it back up

[@troyhubbs5669]

Thank you so much for your video. Question, how do you get the synchronizer out if it wont budge?

[@melovemusic69]

Great explanation friend. You can tell your generation x or older. We know how to thoroughly explain things.

[@svtsuperveloce8559]

Thank you big dad it help me a lot 👏🏼 well explained just what i was looking for

[@charlesforte6473]

Excellent Tutorial, best I've seen yet. You're like an instructor/teacher, only More patient, lol ! I Hope to tackle an 05 Taurus, however, I still don't see where the alignment tool helps So much .I realize it holds the tab in place, still, the engine has to be @ TDC, correct ??? Marking the original location seems easier, and I'm really lazy ! Taurus' can Wear U Out ! Thanks Again !!!

[@ScottDamery]

I just bought a 2002 Mazda B3000 ~ (Just like a Ford Ranger) it was chirping and had occasional lurching at highway speeds....I dropped a little oil in the top of the cam Synchronizer and it has been quiet and no more lurching.

[@tomsgarage2001]

Sometimes this works. More often than not it is a temporary repair. Hope it works for you. Good luck!

[@JuanDaMajikOne]

Would this synchronizer make a rattling sound at exceloration as well or only a chirping noise? Because I've had chirping /squeaking sounds come out of my 3.0 v6 Ranger only to find out it was the belt tensioner and pulley but now I'm getting a rattling/crackling sound when the engine gets to normal operating temperature.

[@johnfarrar6715]

Excellent explanation of this...thank you!!

[@martyrodgers1626]

Very helpful! Thank you sir!

[@gunfisher4661]

If the easy way fails the long portion of the sensor should point at 38 degrees off of center line when at top dead center.

[@whohizzie]

The sensor positioning isnt critical for the timing, only helpful for the stress on the wiring harness, right?

[@skorpyo331]

Please god show where he puts it in at.

[@adamibarra1379]

Its on top back of engine next to trasmission dipstick

[@whohizzie]

@@adamibarra1379 unless you have a manual transmission then you wont have a transmission dipshit

[@CeltsVvvvvv]

How would you put the synchronizer in tdc?

[@tomsgarage2001]

I bought my vehicle new. I marked the outside housing to a point on the intake. Mark the inside window for the sensor to a point on the synchronizer case.

[@paulsosa1872]

Jacob Vela or you can take cylinder #1 take the spark plug out put a long screwdriver down into the hole with someone helping you turn the crank and find TDC

[@whohizzie]

@@tomsgarage2001 why is it important that the outer housing be in the exact same position as when you took it out. I get that the inner tab should be in its exact spot it was in relation to the magnetic sensor because of timing but I dont see how the position of the outer housing is critical for the timing. I’m new to car stuff but from watch videos, doesn’t seem as critical as the inner tab alignment if you’re not doing this with TDC

[@douglasdailey5998]

Did you have to reprogram your computer when you put this part in your truck ?

[@picklerix6162]

This is a defective Ford design. There is no way that a properly designed bearing should start making noise before 150k miles. The bearing is not really under any load so it should not fail as often as it does.

[@tomsgarage2001]

PickleRix There are no bearings in the synchronizer. It has two sets of bronze bushings. The only torsional load comes from the oil pump which is attached to the bottom of the synchronizer by a shaft. But I do agree I should still get more than 60,000 miles out of the synchronizer. That is when mine started making noise. About 60,000 miles.

[@titanusprime4209]

So my 07 has a small chirp on start-up, then whines when I accelerate. The lower the gear, the louder it is. By the time I reach 5th gear at highway speeds, the sound is gone. If I have the truck in neutral, or if I put it in gear but keep the clutch pressed in and rev the engine, there is no noise. I don't have a CEL and I have no other issues with driving or shifting. I'm 99% sure the sound is coming from the transmission. Should I replace my synchro or do I have another issue?

[@tomsgarage2001]

Is your engine a 3.0 V6? You can check the synchronizer for noise. It is located at the back of the intake just to the right of center. You should be able to just start the vehicle and set at idle. Put a long extension on top of the synchronizer and to your ear. Listen for the chirping noise. Sometimes you can even feel it. If you do not hear the noise I would lean towards the transmission. Good luck. Hope I was of help!

[@justinp8946]

tomsgarage2001 a 06 taurus was making a noise and I think it’s injectors cause when I put the mechanics stethoscope on the cam sensor and the housing, I don’t hear anything bad noise or squeak.

[@steverugerguy9606]

Mine has 137000 miles...no problems so far with it....but gonna replace soon for safety.wonder if the Borg warners are good...heard and read the dormans are not any good.mine is a 2006

[@tomsgarage2001]

steve rugerguy I used one of the Ford Motorcraft red And white box. It is their after market brand. Worked good for me.

[@gunfisher4661]

Thats why I just replaced mine. I lost a 3.0 engine to a sync last year that the cam teeth wore completely off and didn`t even throw a code in the mean time

[@justinfrank7171]

What parts did you use? Where did you get them?

[@tomsgarage2001]

The part I needed was the synchronizer itself. You can purchase the parts at any part store. I got mine from the Ford dealer. I know the parts man well. Got a good price.

[@steverugerguy9606]

@@tomsgarage2001 how much ?

[@gunfisher4661]

I just replaced mine and found that there was quite a large range of prices between all the parts stores even online. I went cheapo at auto zone for $45

[@edrenalin2000]

Thanks for the details.

[@quevinsantiago8532]

Es lo mismo para la Ranger 2000 3.0 6v saludos

[@alfredo2846]

Did not work. The synchronizer did not fall back in the same place

[@whohizzie]

? Did you mark it? Take it out and try again if you know where it should be?

[@westypoprocks772]

Lol. I pulled it out and didnt mark anything! Oops!

[@skorpyo331]

And he doesnt.

[@tomsgarage2001]

Are you asking about the location of the cam sensor?

[@joshrobinson4240]

Its located on the back left side of the intake

[@markduggan689]

Folks...when doing this repair. Turn engine over to TDC on #1 cylinder. It will save you time, and you will actually be doing the repair correctly..not guessing. You don't need two alignment marks, only shade tree wannabes do that.

[@pawdre5151]

Mark Duggan can you expand on that? TDC?

[@351cleavland]

@@pawdre5151 Top Dead Center. There are lots of instructions on youtube for "how to find top dead center (or TDC)"

[@whohizzie]

I’m just learning about cars and dont kind of confused with TDC. So far I get that it’s the position of the piston on the compression rotation. But still kind of intimidating to mess with it.

[@cristiancosio3855]

salud

[@omegarugal9283]

i wonder if you can thake this píece of shit out and put a HEI dizzy, fuck the ecm...

[@dwreck9336]

Thankyou so much

[@toocozycanti]

Thanks man

[@thomashaberle4857]

Too much jibber jabber