Installing a Ford Synchronizer

[@freddy2064]

Sir, you are a true professional. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and years of experience. There are many viewers who really appreciate it.

[@realfixesrealfast]

+Freddy Brea Thank you Fred, I appreciate your saying so.

[@barrya.6212]

@@realfixesrealfast MINES STUCK ! .... 4.0 ohv engine... made makeshift slide-hammer gizmo to give it hard pull up strikes (have cable noose around it) and it doesn't budge....any suggestions? Ever come across this ??

[@jennylily28]

this is by far the best repair video i have ever seen thank you for sharing

[@strokewarrior5762]

Thanks, I appreciate your comments

[@MrWhitewidowweed]

great video one thing that should be said is TDC on the compression stroke update after watching your follow up i understand more than i did previous to today and appreciate learning more from you than you'll ever know thank you very much for teaching me all of this new info =D

[@motivatethemind7895]

You saved me a lot of stress and money sir thank you for your excellent video you described it the best out of a whole 2 days of looking into videos to try and solving this issue

[@strokewarrior5762]

glad it helped, thanks for commenting

[@jaylmills]

I've tried and tried to understand this procedure, and just couldn't get it. This video was just what I needed. I finally get it! Great presentation. Thanks!

[@stuzman52]

Great video Dwyane. I like where you take the extra time to illustrate installing the synchronizer in an engine with the upper components removed. Really helps out a lot. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.

[@Truther00]

This guy is a true master 👍🏼

[@briansmobile1]

Great job on the video- that worked out great that you had all those resources available for visual demonstration.

[@christiangabriel572]

One of the best videos to follow I've seen. Thank you. You have the way of explaining things that even a if a medieval time traveler would understand.

[@moofushu]

I find the hard part is locating TDC on this 99 Ranger by counting back from the gap on the crank (where the engine crank sensor is reading engine position.) Some people say you should count back 5 "fingers" or "teeth" and others say count back 6 "teeth" for TDC on this engine. You can go though this whole process, but if you've located the engine on the wrong "teeth" at the crank sensor your Cam Synchronizer will be incorrect even if you've installed it perfect. It is still a good video :)

[@JeffAMay]

Absolutely the BEST how to video on KZbin.You sir made this look so easy a 10 year old could install a cam sync correctly!

[@molinny]

thank you for the clear explanation. the history of how the synchronizer is simply an evolution of the distributor helped in my understanding of the subject.

[@turadura6620]

Awesome! This is the best video that explains everything in detail.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

Your a great teacher. I love how you use a lot of visual aids for us visual learners.

[@ronaldreed7698]

Very well done, you explained this process very well. I personally know how to install one but no way I could've explained it any better. Good teacher. I notice you have multiple engines on stands, if you enjoy working on engines, your a lucky man.

[@8LLRoadranger]

Very well presented, explained, and much appreciated. I just did one today on a 2007 Taurus with a 3.0 Liter. To bring the engine to TDC on the Taurus with front wheel drive, I removed the passenger tire, and went behind the splash-guard to access the engine's damper pulley. I used a 21mm socket, with a 1/2-inch drive, and short extension to turn the engine to align the interrupter.

[@ArcolaBridge]

How do you know what stroke you are on? how do you know you are on compression not exhaust?

[@8LLRoadranger]

ArcolaBridge Good question. It is true that I could have been on the exhaust stroke; although, for the installation of the camshaft synchronizer, aligning the tab with the hall-effect opening is the goal. I simply turned the crank-pulley until the tab lined up with the opening on the housing. So really TDC on the compression stroke is not paramount for this procedure; rather, aligning the synchronizer for reference to install the new one.

[@HighestRank]

It's ok, your motor will just run backwards.

[@commanderzero5811]

Good video. I used a 24mm socket to turn the engine to TDC mark. A plastic alignment cap came with my cam synchro. I inserted in just about the same position as the original. My original cam synchro was all mangled and destroyed inside the cap. The car ran that way for a couple years. Made a squeaking sound. I thought it was the water pump. My understanding is that the cam synchro doesn't control cylinder firing order, but synchronizes the fuel injectors to fire properly. I've read that the car can function with a failed cam synchro, but is very fuel inefficient and misfires.

[@JustForFun771]

Great great great. Most people were talking about how you just mark the old one on the motor. I had a new short block so I had to know how to do it properly. Perfect video, great job thanks!

[@DaPobster]

YOUR THE BEST TEACHER IN THE WORLD DUANE!

[@ofthechase6962]

Thank you very much that was a very good description on how to replace the synchronizer I appreciate your work sir

[@gonzgarr1592]

you are a master mechanic and a great teacher and i'm your humble student can't thank you enough

[@dylanaguiar5799]

QUESTION: When you stabbed at the right angle at 9:47 the synchronizer wasn't fully squared with its housing. Same thing is happening with me. The old one fits flush. The new one, with the alignment tool, doesn't. If I put the alignment tool on the old synchronizer, same problem happen. Any thoughts? Is it ok to leave a little gap like you did?

[@charlesshowalter2819]

Outstanding video! Well Done Sir!

[@Rythymace]

Very well done! You are an excellent teacher, you hit all the marks and made it very understandable and clear. I think I could do this in my sleep now lol .

[@moldrepair]

Or Remove spark plugs Rotate engine to top dead center #1. Have a friend handy to hold finger in #1 spark plug hole. Use nylon tie in spark plug hole to find TDC Make sure the synchronizer tool fits on original still in engine so its indexed for removal Mark a reference point on block where the arrow points with the tool Remove old synchronizer Replace new synchronizer with it pointing at original reference mark on block It's that easy, did it in the college parking lot a couple years ago.

[@brentowen9480]

Great description. I've doing this on a 99 3.0l Ranger and yes the service lit is confusing. 38 degrees for 3.0L.

[@davesministry7789]

I have watched a few of these demonstrations on doing this on this engine. As usual your methods are extremely clear, you do not speed talk like most of the younger people, making it much easier to understand. Thank you. The picture you showed of the sensor body fully installed, saying to then bolt it down, seemed to still be about 3/16" of off the block. due to the oil pump drive not aligning, do you not have to turn, or crank the engine while pushing down on the synchronizer to seat it totally. This was the hard part when doing distributer installations. I only bring this up because I had to repair a car many years ago where another mechanic ruined the cam gear by trying to beat the distributer in with a hammer. Keep up you good work.

[@ronaldreed7698]

Speed talking isn't a youth thing, its usually geographic. BTW I'm 63. I'm from Fl, we have many people from other areas live here, on average native Floridians speak slower then do people from the N.E. , just saying.

[@mattboatman5769]

Great video. It cleared up the lousy instructions that came with my aftermarket synchronizer. I wish the engineers had not buried the darn thing so far behind the lower intake manifold. It wold not fit down in with the tool installed, so I have modified the tool a bit (chopped some off) so it will drop down in there.

[@itsme1232620]

THANK you doug gyver for pointing out that it doesnt really matter where the housing of the cam synchronizer, i was wandering what the whole degree thing was really for if i already installed the synchronizer with the little tool and with the engine at TDC. anyway my scynchronizer only went on one way anyway.

[@josephpowers3839]

Very well explained. Very professional. Great video on topic.

[@jonclark1288]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video! Very helpful, informative, and easy to understand.

[@MiguelPerez-zf8hv]

Thank you so much. Great video, great teaching technique, lots of knowledge.

[@georgestrickland9278]

I have watched a lot of videos on here and I think ol man duane forgot more about wrenching than most young guys will ever know,and a great teacher too.

[@HighestRank]

That's because old knowledge was superseded by mo-better, insuperable life hacks.

[@trevorroacho7614]

thank u very much i did it the way u explain it and my engine started in just 2 seconds perfectly well.u save me some money

[@rbarr1200]

100 thumbs up. Awesome teacher.

[@AustraliasBiggestBassChannel]

is it possible for the synchronizer to leak a good amount of oil with the hold down bolt tight ? seems to be where im getting a pool off oil from

[@anthonyschurz7613]

before pulling out synchronizer take chisel or punch an established center line point that touches both synchronizer and block in the same place. then transfer that to new synchronizer before reassembly

[@Theezmoney]

Great video and explaination. I have a 1998 For Ranger 3.0 that i had a p1309 code coming on right after my motor was rebuilt but never got it fixed because it was the only code and it was running fine but always kept my check engine light on. Lately i was getting other codes p0171 and p0174 and p1137 and p1131 and it's been running bad. I have checked fuel pressure with a gauge and its holding steady at 62psi. I had a plugged pcv valve and broke vacuum hose that i fixed and did a smoke test using a cigar and dont see any leaks. Ford dealer said probably the cam syncronizer was off just enough to cause the light and code to come on. I bought a new syncronizer and installed it at 75 degrees TDC using a gauge and screw driver and also the mark on the damper was exactly same as where i found TDC, Only problem is that my Hanes repair manual must be wrong because it is impossible to set the syncronizer at 75 degrees because when you do the sensor will not go on because the plug end sticks out too much and hits a place on the block not allowing you to place the sensor on correctly. so i have it set at about 50-60 so the sensor will go on and that is about the same position the old one was in and now i see why the engine place set it off a little. Do you know where i can get another spec on the correct setting. I am now getting the same codes and it idles with like a spark knock like the timing is off. Is it possible the timing chain was set wrong or jumped?

[@stevencoderre8407]

I have read so many different degrees for a ford 3.0L vulcan, it is mind boggling. I have read 10, 15, 50, 60, 75...its like no one really knows?!! If you want to start from scratch, just because, say the cam sync flag is no longer even there, or maybe the old one was put in wrong years ago, etc. You should have a reputable answer to what freaking degrees is correct, I still do not know what the correct is for my 2003 ford Ranger edge (V) 3.0L.

[@stevencoderre8407]

Two days ago, I had codes P0171, P0174, P0175, P1131, P1151 ---All related to the O2 sensors, so today, I had a shop replace all 3 O2 sensors, two upstream & one downstream. That did not help, still having same issue. So, that tells me that just because you get codes saying or pointing to bad O2 sensors, does NOT mean they are bad, just that they are reporting a lean mixture, etc. So, now I have went out and purchased the cam sensor, and the Motorcraft Cam synchronizer, and hoping that I can do it the correct way...ugh.

[@firstlast---]

Very late on this but the correct orientation is 38 degrees

[@firstlast---]

I'm fighting a 1309 as well. After doing some research I realize I've installed it wrong for the second time. I rebuilt the engine so I had no original point of reference. If I remember or if someone else comments I will update with results

[@Hurlburton]

Another good video and I will compliment you on the super pro presentation.

[@spiritofeli]

Excellent info!! I am now smarter because of you.

[@sjs2657g]

Nice improvement over the last video showing this, real professional looking. ;-)

[@istvanvarga674]

Finding the TDC in a windstar with 3.8 is very difficult because removing the spark plug at the #1 cylinder is a very time consuming process. Can the #5 cylinder be used to find the TDC in #1? Or any other cylinder in the front bank of the engine?

[@stephenmckee6439]

Looks like you're hold down bolt is the mark for the cam synchronizer

[@DJDevon3]

Because of the tight space between the engine and firewall what are the chances of getting a small protractor in there? Great video. I'd never even heard of a cam synchronizer before. Learned a lot thank you.

[@troyhubbs5669]

Thank you so much for your video. Question, how do you get the synchronizer out if it wont budge?

[@travishardy5561]

you can get the syncro and tool kit at oreilly auto parts, I just ordered both for 44 bucks and they'll be in tomorrow.

[@1skull]

It looks like the 15° location matches up to the "hold down" bolt location.

[@chuckr8727]

I sure would like to know how you got that synchronizer out without removing the lower intake manifold. Looks like mine is partially covered by the intake manifold. No way to hardly even get a wrench on it let alone get it out. Oh, my old beater (that I'm turning in to a flat bed) is a 99 Ford Ranger 4.0L OHV.

[@stephenmckee6439]

I just marked where the pointer is. When I put the new one back in I made sure it lined up where the pointer was on the old one. And it worked. I didn't need that tool. That is way easier than a distributor

[@realfixesrealfast]

you are correct however some people remove it and without noting where it was installed. This is for them.

[@tonydixon5651]

but how do you line up the crank at TDC? with the timming chain installed?

[@FM-so7sn]

Use a clear plastic protractor for angles,if there's room.

[@aaroncapps2610]

does it matter if you put it at TDC i don’t understand that part, if you roatate the engine until the alignment tool will go onto the sensor before you unbolt it and mark it then shouldn’t you just be able to put the tool on the new one and get it to align with your mark and then bolt it back down and be done

[@Ax4400]

Thank you for a good instructional video. I have 2000Mazda B2500SE 2.5L 4Cyl Manual Engine with 8 spark plugs. My question is does this year model truck have a camshaft synchronizer?

[@mozart4733]

This is very helpful. Cheers.

[@saulorozco5787]

Thank you for the video you are great professional. Question do I need to have piston number 1 up in dead position with this procedure synchronized.

[@javiercosme1442]

Thank you for the video you are great professional

[@stevefreuhauf5926]

Thanks for the info. I have a 1995 Ford ranger 3.0L with a synchro. Will the connector line up with the direction the arrow is pointing? My engine was replaced and mine whistles when it is cold above 55 mph until the motor warms up. My connector probably points 15 degrees to the left of the engine looking at it from the rear with the connector pointing toward the engine not away from it. I think the installer did it incorrectly.

[@dlrtx]

I've done all as stated on my 2001 Ford Taurus. After 30-40 miles my CEL comes back on. I am puzzled because I've done the "Stab" step by step. I've even tried 3 different Sensor Manufactures. Any ideas are GREATLY appreciated!

[@HighestRank]

Reset your keep-alive memory with a scan tool.

[@jillsims1133]

very good explanation and video, thanks

[@treborhi]

Does the synch engage the oil pump drive before it makes contact with cam gear. The oil pump drive is a hex, so the synch will only drop every 30 degrees. so does it engage the oil pump drive first, then you can rotate synch and oil pump drive together until the correct synch gear tooth engages the cam gear? Having a hard time getting synch to fully seat. should i use washer and 10 mm bolt to drive it?

[@coreybabcock2023]

Glad my 98 Ford e250 has the 4.2 l V6 Essex engine and the cam sync is by the water outlet and heater bypass and EGR

[@insulman100]

Is it just the way I'm looking at the video or is the arrow lined up with the hold down bolt hole

[@zappa916]

as the synchroniser body is not keyed into the engine block, why can you not rotate the synchroniser until the metal tab in the reluctor is in the home position? 15 degree alignment would be there for to make sure the wiring plug would reach the reluctor. am i missing something?

[@barrya.6212]

Correct me if I'm wrong....but can't you just mark where the current notch is at on old one before pulling out....then install new one with arrow pointing to marking of old one...pretty sure putting 'number 1' at TDC is just so if you mess up / having a more defined reference point....correct?? Of course with old school distributor you had to do it this way...but with electronic system doesn't the PCM have stored where everything was at last shutdown.....thus being able to line up at aforementioned way...

[@realfixesrealfast]

Barry you are correct. However many don't think or work that way. They remove it and then don't know how to reinstall it.

[@Element_lifestyle]

Andrew Miguelez try to put a protractor with the engine on the car and see if you can do it, its easy to tell the 45 degree like the way he show. Its all about paying attention in what you doing!

[@Semnyi]

need to buy a kit? can't hold the synchronizer in place during installation? thanks for the video

[@SuperTech123451]

Good video Duane, my question is where did you get that synchronization tool kit and how much please let me know asap. Thanks.

[@fivefivecomputer8086]

could't you just put the installation tool on the old one and then mark it somehow as to it's position, seems like it would be easy that way.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

Wow! You are very luck. 431000 miles!?. The best answer I can give you is that they last as long as they last, but the majority of the water pumps I've replaced are usually sometime after 100k. There are so many factors to take into account when it comes to parts longevity. Like, Is the part high quality/ Does the owner keep up with the maint/ and the list goes on. Apparently you've taken care of your Ford. Kudos.

[@coreybabcock2023]

I never used the tool to reinstall mine I used the witness mark's from the hood down washer

[@wrenchesinmotion3282]

Thanks for the video. I'm about to do this on my 3.0. Lucky for me, it's on a stand right now, which should make it much easier. Now to figure out what position it's supposed to be in. Can I rotate it to TDC and remove the cam sensor and mark a line where it is?

[@realfixesrealfast]

Yes, that will work

[@RobertGutkaes]

Excellent video.

[@Chucktales]

So no lining it up with number 1 cylinder then?

[@jplkenny]

wouldnt it also be just as easy to remove the old sensor cover, and place a mark on the intake and then pull the unit and use the mark to stab the new one? I use this techince on distributers and it works ther so why cant it work in this situation unless someone has already done it and screwed up the placement?

[@ThatGuyInOhio72]

nice video, very thorough... but wouldnt it be easier to just say it needs to end up pointing at the hold down bolt? Just a thought....😊

[@duanemariage9514]

for those who just want to know "how" the answer is yes, buy for those who want to know "why" the answer is no.

[@drowization]

Great video but how do you crank the engine over by hand ? I tried it clockwise and it wont budge. Also where do I find the degrees for my truck please? It's a ford explorer 1997, v8 awd. Thank you,,,,, GOD BLESS you good sir,,,,

[@commanderzero5811]

I was able to crank my engine to the the TDC timing mark using a 24mm socket. 1998 Mercury Mountaineer. Just like an Explorer. I just assumed it needed to be TDC.

[@bernettcoleman923]

8

[@peregrine262]

How do you find Top Dead Center (TDC) to align the synchronizer at 15-degree?

[@UBBERTANKER]

it did one of these on a ford ranger 4.0 in school man did that suck, you couldnt see anything even with the intake off

[@DavidAnderson-cj3ux]

How did you get it out at the end of the day? I have a 4.0 and I have my upper intake off, but the sensor is stuck on the synchro and I cannot separate them. Without separating them, the sensor hits on the bottom of where the stud is located for the upper intake. There isn't enough wiggle room for me to remove it without the sensor off, and I am having to do everything by feel (like you said, you really cannot see anything).

[@hotrodmx666]

I don't know where you got your info. but alldata say 56 degrees. 15 degrees put the electrical connector where the w/p bypass hose location.

[@iedhunter05]

Great video sir. I am working on a 1994 Ford Ranger with the 4.0. The synchro is the three wire with the window. I cannot find the tool for this year for some reason? Is your process the same for this application sir?

[@realfixesrealfast]

yep, pretty much the same

[@4rdF1Hunny]

mark the block and put the new one in the spot where it came out of, and the same direction for the sensor tooth. Much easier.

[@a4channoob]

1 problem i see with this video is that even tho you did mention the crank needs to be at TDC, you did not mention anything about it needing to be on the compression stroke. so you can have it installed like its shown but it has the possibility of being 180 degrees off

[@commanderzero5811]

Interesting. I might have done this. It made a racket for about 30 seconds then it smoothed right out. Maybe the controller figures it out.

[@daytonasixty-eight1354]

Sometimes that does not matter because the engine sparks on the exhaust and power stroke.

[@tonytonesterrobertson393]

But, BUT... it's not just TDC on Cyl 1, it's TDC at top of *compression* stroke. HOW to determine that without removing valve cover? Can't use the CPS gear on front of crankshaft, because of course that's TDC on each stroke... hmmm... do you peek into the oil fill hole?

[@madera01]

Hi, when the sensor is bad it could cause a no injectors pulse condition? BTW amazing video!

[@adamfolmar693]

mine is 15° towards the drivers side, will that affect something ?

[@metalmaniaxx]

Thanks,it's a bit clearer now..I put my revive back together after replacing the timing set..all it did was crank and crank.it ran for two seconds,then a loud pop and smoke at the front of the engine.like when a high voltage shortage happens.does anyone know what that was?

[@strokewarrior5762]

Good chance it's out of time. Probably 180 degrees out and that means the opposite valves are open when they shouldn't be.

[@metalmaniaxx]

@@strokewarrior5762 thank you for the reply.so I should rotate the camshaft synchroniser 180°?

[@strokewarrior5762]

@@metalmaniaxx possibly, but I would suspect your actual valve timing if off

[@metalmaniaxx]

@@strokewarrior5762 thank you.I will check again.but I lined up all the dots with each of the gears.that seemed pretty straightforward.but I'll check.

[@shopyard87]

I saved this one. Great! Send others. Thanks

[@scottbrink9961]

What degree would you set it on a 2001 ford mustang 3.8L v6? Really could us some help

[@johnstathopoulos3395]

Great video thank you

[@sjr7822]

I'll take an answer from anyone that has experience in replacing the camshift sensor. I was just told by a mechanic after the scan, that it showed PO340 code for the 97 Ford Ranger. The Ranger runs smoothly and not one problem except the check engine light. I was told this is an all day job! But, after viewing this, I don't believe it is an all day job, I think it is within 1/2 hr job at a price of 350. am I wrong?

[@strokewarrior5762]

SJR I'll be glad to give you my opinion. The actual real time to make that repair would easily fall under the usual 1 hour minimum that most shops charge. However they are probably adding in the time and experience factor for diagnosis, which could easily be an additional hour. That would total 2 hours. Could it be done in 1/2 hour? Possibly for a tech that has done many, many of these. However there would still be a diagnostic charge. Regarding the "all day" statement. I would assume that the shop your referring to has multiple jobs currently working at the same time. With each job taking time and have to work yours into the schedule, along with interruptions, phone calls, lunch breaks etc. I don't think its unreasonable for the shop to mean that they would need the vehicle for the full day in order for them to complete it. As far as the cost of $350, it really depends on what their shop labor rate is and what they may be including, like the parts.

[@sjr7822]

@@strokewarrior5762 I appreciate your response and support. I gave up on this man that gave me the one day sells job, I have no confidence in him which is sad since I've been going to this garage since the 90s.only 5 miles from my house, I never saw this man before, however. He was suppose to call me at home with an estimate of the job labor and parts, he never did, I called today at 4:00pm, he was not available to come to the phone. So, I told the office lady I've been on youtube watching this process and it wasn't an 'all day' job -just to send a message to this man that wouldn't take my call. I called a Ford Garage in a distant town, I figured I can make the drive since the light isn't blinking yet. That Ford Garage said, as you did 1/2 hr job at 52.00 labor and 50.00 for the part. Again, I appreciate your support, a better sleep tonight- Thank you

[@strokewarrior5762]

@@sjr7822 Glad you were sensitive enough to wonder about what he said. Thanks for letting me know. Glad your getting the right info now. Duane

[@zrxdoug]

You cannot see the gears in this video. ALL camshafts turn at half of crank speed. They have to in order for the valves to perform four functions within two revolutions of the crankshaft. It's the basis of a four cycle engine..

[@alderete74]

outstanding class

[@richhaseltine646]

I have a 2002 sable. i put the engine on tdc to install sychronizer and now no crank no start. any ideas thank you

[@ArcolaBridge]

.How do you get the #1 cylinder to TDC on a 2004 taurus v6? The spark plug holes are sideways and #1 cylinder is between the fire wall and block.

[@HighestRank]

Align the camshaft synchronizer tab with the Hall-effect cutout..

[@ArcolaBridge]

yea but the most common problem is that that eccentric gear on the oil pump gear wears out and you lose the frame of reference which is what happened which = junkyard.

[@MrWhitewidowweed]

i would suggest watching the follow up video to this one love this guys videos =D

[@eduardo4713]

maestro disculpe la molestia esto que enseña en su video me sirve para una ford windstar 95 v6 3.8 por favor es pero su respuesta

[@gordontrainer]

Awesome video . Th for all details because I took out without marking. Hopefully i didn't ruin anything trying to start. So back to TDC And well I had to tAke #3rod out to get intake off 3.0 so I better make sure that in right too . I just n Put back in like I took out . Do I have to turn motor to certain spot?? Seriously your video ROCKS

[@mmontiel6314]

Can you pleace tell me which is the right tool for the synchronizer assembly for 2001 ford taurus 3. lt.I'm will be very thankyou

[@colin3651]

Need help putting in crankshaft sensor and housing my 2003 ford windstar is stalling less power and sqeeling noise from belt area ... take power steering pump off?? Help thanks can't get to work grrrrrrr

[@steverugerguy9606]

Great video.....it didn't look like it was all the way seated on the block...

[@ralphbennett6831]

Was this video made using a 3.0?