04 Jeep 4.7 rocker arms falling off..DIY how to repair

[@agold3765]

I've "fixed" 2 of the Chrysler ".7" engines with the rocker arm issue thanks to a mechanic who posted on this quite a few years ago. The mechanic stated he had repaired the same 3.7 three different times with new rocker arms and lash adjusters on the same cylinder(s). Upon the 3rd failure of the new parts, he decided to do some precise measuring. He made the determination that if he "shimmed" the lash adjuster with an 86 thousands shim, there should no longer be enough gap to allow the rocker to fall out and still be enough clearance for everything to play nice. I had a neighbor who's mechanic said she needed a new engine in her Liberty with a 3.7 and quoted her $3500. I took a look at it and found it spit 2 rockers. I purchased 2 stainless steel washers and placed them under the new lash adjusters on the offending cylinders. That was in 2012(?). It hasn't spit a rocker since. I recently purchased a Jeep GC with a 4.7 with 126,000 miles on it that was running on 6 cyl. I bought 2 new lash adjusters and a box of 3/16 flat washers. I put 2 flat washers under each of the 2 new VLA's (aprrox. 75 thousands) and, knock on wood 350 miles and 2 weeks later, all is well. To put everything back together I just put a wire tie on the timing chain and cam sprocket loosened the cam retainer bolts, lifted the cam slightly, put the rockers on and torqued the cam back down to spec following the proper sequence. The job took about 3-4 hrs for the passenger side on a hot engine including a trip to the parts store. I would buy or repair these things all day long. It's not a bad job. I also own another 4.7 with 260,000 miles on it. I've used quality synthetic oil in it since the 2nd or 3rd oil change. Once again, knock on wood, never had a problem with it.

[@alm7707]

I've seen these lifters worn on the flat bottom edge and there could be wear in the bottom of the lifter hole. Shim washer might be ok, but don't put so much in that the lifter bottoms out or valves will be held open and burn. 2 washers 3/16 thick are .375 thick, way more than .075. The math is... 3 divided by 16 = .1875. times that by two = .375" Did you mean something like a 1/16 washer? One 1/16 washer is .0625 thick.

[@Ap-nv1hk]

Can you fix mine?

[@danielsmith2447]

No need to loosen the camshaft, the rockers pop in easily with a small pry bar.

[@jcstevegigs]

@@danielsmith2447 I believe he did that to get the "shim" washer in there at the same time.

[@luclave5781]

had it at the Mechanic because of a lack of power and loud noise. He says the lifter pope of so he re-installed it for 200.00. then I went on youtube. found this video. Now after after the mechanic fixed the one well probably just re-in stalled the lifter now 1 month later 2 more popped off. Thanks to this video I have it apart and doing the job wright. Thanks again.

[@JF32304]

you might want to run some BG EPR through your oil to clean the entire system out. sounds like a large lack of maintenance! I'm on my 5th 4.7. they all run GREAT. you take care of them and they'll last you. I'm on my 5th due to the selling of the vehicles not a blown engine.

[@spudhead8489]

great info, buddy brought his 05 durango by ticking and throwing misfire on number 6 and cam sensor . so i checked out your video it was just as you said .after pulling the cover laying right on the bottom was the rocker. lifter was stuck hard so I pulled it apart and put back together as you described my buddy thought I was a god . keep the vids coming

[@johniannetta1822]

Thanks for your video. You saved me some major cash. Thanks to your video, I was able to fix my own 2002 Dakota 4.7L (277,000km). My rocker fell off on the number 4 Cylinder. I was able to put in on easily thanks to you. I didn't need to replace my lifter as it was in great condition. Same with the valve cover gasket. I just cleaned it up and reused it. Thanks a million.

[@mugiver411]

Glad the video helped you!

[@erics9213]

I have a 2006 Dodge Dakota 3.7 RWD with 256K. Always changed my oil between 3 and 5K miles w/synthetic. Started hearing the ticking noise last week and already changed the plugs and coils. Injectors are fine so suspect sticking lifter(s) and glad to see so many videos on this problem. The engine internally works fine until now. When I installed new lifters in my 78 Camaro 350 v8 back in the 80s, they said immerse in oil and pump them up prior to installing.

[@dustinparker9312]

I recently purchased a 2004 Grand Cherokee limited with the 4.7L V8 and 117k miles. Paid $500 for it because the seller thought it needed an engine. I was fine with doing an engine swap because it was in great shape otherwise and had no rot. After researching the knocking and misfiring it was exhibiting in cylinder 4 and 8, I came across this video and decided to remove the valve covers and have a look. Sure enough, I found one of the rockers had fallen off the 4th cylinder. I replaced all 16 lash adjusters on all cylinders, as well as the rockers on cylinder 4 and 8, just to be safe. Also did an oil change, valve cover gaskets and pcv valve. Jeep runs great now and only cost a couple hundred in parts and a few hours of labor to repair.

[@dustinparker9312]

One interesting thing that I noticed; the OEM rockers had a hole through them, right where the lash adjusters meet the rocker arm, so you can see though the rocker down into the "nipple" of the lash adjuster. The aftermarket replacement rockers (melling) have no hole in this location.....I wonder if this change is significant and cures a design flaw from the oem.

[@charliedee9276]

@@dustinparker9312 They do that to keep as much of the oil pressure in the lifter instead of bleeding out the top through the hole. I believe the 05 and up stock ones have a much smaller hole than the 04 and earlier ones.

[@indianawhitetailunlimited2107]

Just followed your tutorial for my '08 Libby. Back on the road and runnin! Awesome video. Thank god for iPhones and KZbin. My iPhone continues to pay for itself. Just saved a grand!

[@olegwinner]

Indiana Whitetail Unlimited hello, so same happened on kk liberty?

[@kellydavis3110]

Wow! thank for this info. You saved our family a lot of money. My husband was gonna send it off to a macanic but thanks to your video we are back on the road with it. Jeep sounds better than it did before it went down. Big thumbs up to you!! Thanks.

[@JF32304]

after reading a lot of these replies... there's a lot of people that don't change their oil regularly lol. soft parts are always cheaper and easier to change than hard part's. take care if your engine and it will last you. don't use cheap shit oil either. run good stuff. I promise you won't regret it. I was a Valvoline guy for years. I've switched to Royal Purple for oil and filter. my engine is worth it to me.

[@2011FindTheTruth]

Those oil ports get clogged and people say this engine is junk but the reality is that if you make sure you change the oil regularly plus make sure the pcv valve is replaced when it gets clogged you'll be fine. A clogged pcv valve will create condensation, then sludge, and then clogged oil ports in the engine... This is why there's meatheads that claim the engine is junk.

[@JF32304]

I agree, these engines are GREAT! you have to take care of them though. keep up on maintenance!

[@CatFuzz71]

This isn't the only reason why these are garbage engines. There are other major flaws. They drop valve seats and if they even come close to overheating, the heads will warp and they won't be fixable because the cam tower alignment can't be corrected.

[@Helgi1979]

Thnx for the video :) .. had the same problem and got it fixed today... Cyl 2 on bank 2. Took the rockerarm lifter apart, cleaned it and put it back together. But damn, taking the valvecover off was not "pleasent".. 1999 WJ. Your video helped me alot with a quick diagnosis of the problem. Will change all the lifters asap.

[@HappyHands.]

this is why the I-6 4.0 is the best engine for the Jeep

[@RonWheeldon]

Thanks for this very helpful video, a guy like you who takes the time to post something like this is a big help to someone like me in Africa where Jeep engines are not so well known and getting expertise, even in the shop, is difficult. My 2004 WJ HO has done the exact same rocker, but I see the plug is also beaten up so I suspect its dropped a valve seat too. I'm planning to go with solid lifters once the heads are overhauled.

[@jimcaster247]

THANKS for the video......Garage wanted $250 just to look at mine...off to get the parts to do it myself....thanks again

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

Cool trick with the hose clamp! Will keep that trick in mind!

[@mugiver411]

Makes it pretty slick that way lol

[@almason253]

Thanks for the video from 6 six years ago. I still have my 2000 wj 4.7 and I'll be inspecting under the valve covers this weekend. Wish me luck.

[@whatwasthat3269]

same lol

[@grabitz]

The problem is not the lifter . The small oil port that goes where the lifter rest in is plugged and not giving the lifter enough oil . I had the same problem changed all the lifters and the same rocker arms would fall off in a matter of days . I got tired of putting them back on just to have them fall off again . What I did was pull the lifter out , start the motor for just a second enough to blow oil out where the lifter goes doing one at a time . Put the lifters and rocker arm back on and never had a problem again . Just make sure you do one at a time so you have plenty of oil pressure.

[@alm7707]

I'd be surprised if the feed hole was blocked. That hole is about 1/8 " The oil must have been really sludgy. Glad you fixed it. Everything still ok 7 mo later?

[@grabitz]

Yes it's working no problems at all. There was no sludge in the lifter covers or on the heads at all. It actually looked pretty clean so I doubt the block would be sludged up that bad. Whatever reason they plug they do plug and my way is a quick cheap fix that works.

[@carlschoolcraft3944]

grabitz ..i like it...its deffinetly on my to do list!

[@alm7707]

It's the plunger in the lifter that gets stuck bottomed out and leaves way too much clearance and the rocker falls out.The spring in the lifter sometimes breaks too. I cleaned up a set of lifters with brake cleaner. I put the lifter in the vice so that when I tightened the vice the plunger would push in. Sprayed brake cleaner into the hole on the side while I repeatedly toggled the vice handle back and forth until I had the lifter bottomed out. spray in lots of brake cleaner to dissolve the varnish built up in the lifter. You can press the plunger afterwards and feel the spring pressure. If you cant, replace the lifter. If in doubt, replace the lifters anyway. No special tool to remove rocker. Use a large screwdriver to pry the rocker towards the valve to remove, and towards the lifter to replace. They pop right out. Slow process but made the lifters work again, and saved about $20 bucks per lifter. This motor had about 300,000 km on it.

[@russellisch3106]

grabitz in

[@tunnelportterror]

it's normal for a lifter to not compress when taken out of a motor, cuz it's full of oil. if it was new empty it would compress

[@nickhetherington7716]

I've gotten new ones and they were all solid.

[@jimpetro8850]

i like your choice in angle grinders

[@devindonovand959]

Good recommendation for the fix. Hose clamp idea is tits. I had this exact problem a month after replacing all the valve springs, I thought about replacing all the lifters at the time but there I go, trying to save money........ for those of you reading the comments, the 4.7 engines are also known for broken valve springs too. I just bought this 2004 Cherokee for $500 w 117k miles. Put a little work into it and it's a good second vehicle.

[@nickhetherington7716]

Devin Donovan can a broken valve spring be hard to tell by just visually looking at it without taking it out?

[@livenfree]

@@nickhetherington7716 Great Question! Whish youtube made discussions easier to track so answers would come more easily.

[@nickhetherington7716]

@@livenfree I agree

[@kennethdandurand3472]

LOL Aside from the lifter (and I am dealing with one now) all your tools, including the Estwing hammers, Makita tools, and Lincoln (SP-100?) welder and the vise are identical to my garage/shop. And I like your video as well. Well done!

[@robertmerritt7271]

While your doing this if you have a 3.7l or 4.7l built before the start of the 2005 model year...obtain 2005 and up rocker arms with the small directional hole in the top. They keep more oil in the lifter and it is less likely to pump up and spit the arm out. Also, check for bearing slop in the cam follower wheel. I have found two that had .010" free play.

[@mopar546]

Thanks for the vid.I came across a 2000 Dakota for a really really good price.The guy was selling it cheap because of the engine noise.I thought it sounded like a lifter but I wasn't positive. I know what a lifter smack sounds like in a typical V8 but being an overhead cam made it sound just different enough to make me unsure.I knew if it was a lifter it would be an easy fix and a great deal. As soon as I heard yours I knew I was right. I bought it,fixed it and am enjoying the very good deal I got.

[@adamjohnson7786]

what were the symptoms of this failure. im trying to figure out what is causing the misfire on my 02 durango 4.7. everything from the heads up is brand new. bottom end has never been toughed so im leaning towards bad rings on #4. compression was about 15 to 20psi lower than the other 7.

[@JS-xi5nk]

Wow! NEVER EVER pry against the cam lobes. If you scratch them, then you are creating a friction point and causing wear on the lobe and roller. Instead, use a bent 10mm open end wrench between the spring and lifter and pry it up. And use a flat head or small pry bar against the rocker and head to pry the rocker back on.

[@jdreeper30]

I have this same problem on cylinder #8... so I did what you did.. and cleaned the valve lash adjuster.... the rocker arm falls of with your finger.... so I bought a new lash adjuster.. same thing..... I just got a new rocker arm to try and replace tomorrow... I will update after the job is done...

[@nickhetherington7716]

John Erikson did you ever figure out the problem as to why it was still loose even with a new lifter?

[@doomassthenightcrawler]

Yeah let me know I'm having issues with mine as well

[@sebastianferdin725]

Stuck valve

[@lancelanphier9509]

Great video. But why didn't you put the lifters in oil and pump them up before you install them??

[@3gencamaroguy]

nice job man, I didn't know you could take the adjusters apart. My 02 jeep 4.7 has 135 000miles and so far I have not had this problem. I use synthetic oil and change it every 5000 km

[@MrGreatness412]

Synthetic 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾

[@HappyHands.]

keep it cool, keep it clean, keep it lubed

[@Robiam85]

Thank you for the video, Sir! Just picked up a 2004 liberty with the 3.7 for 500. Excellent vehicle but had a broken valve spring due to poor maintenance. The culprit, in my opinion, is these hydraulic lifters. The broken spring was caused by a seized lifter. Going to pull all lifters and rebuild them like you have done and replace all springs and one chewed up rocker arm. When my lifter seized, it knocked the rocker arm off and chewed up the side of the same cam lobe, the main surface of the lobe is good, should I replace or just knock down the marred metal? You saved this guy a lot of money and time on buying new parts!

[@Ian-ij4of]

Thanks for posting this video, probably explains what's happened to my BMW engine, I found the rocker lying in the cylinder head, I've just been out and tried to compress the lifter and it's rock solid...hopefully I don't have to remove the inlet camshaft because it only lifts out so far and jams up against it....BMW N52 engine

[@josephdollar6389]

Thank you very much, very informative. I just bought a jeep very cheap, I hope this is the fix.

[@danmalloy3939]

Thanks dude I appreciate it I'm kind of having a different problem my rocker arm seems to wanna fall off just randomly and I replace the lifter and it still does it.

[@tunnelportterror]

if a Dodge engine tosses a rocker arm, you need to change the VALVE SPRING, in addition to the lifter- not just the lifter. the clearance comes from the spring being weak, not following the cam profile tightly and clearance opening up. if you put spacers under the lifter, you will only collapse the spring more and more, and eventually break the spring. change the lifter and spring, it will run fine and not lose rockers.

[@mccoolm12]

Cool, thanks for the video. How did you end up popping off the rocker arms that were compressed? Did you have to sequentially rotate the cam until it freed each one up? Also, to reinstall them, were you able "pry them back in"?

[@KANNABULL]

I think I have the same problem with a Durango 2001 could this problem cause the engine to stall?

[@chrisheath9260]

you can add a qtz of atf .....trans fluid to your oil and run til noise quits then change oil and filter the trans fluid will pump up the lifters in half the time

[@recurringdreambusproject]

Just to add a couple of things, all mine were stuck and a couple were stuck so bad I couldn't free them so I used a heat gun, fill the casing up to the bleed hole with penetrating oil and apply heat via a heat gun, do not over heat it just enough evenly applied all around until the fluid starts to bubble, one popped up just from the heat & one needed tapping upside down on wood, check the check valve at the bottom of the piston, they sometimes come out, you can check by turning upside down and apply light pressure to the spring clip, you can generally tell by looking at it at eye level, if it is out it will sit uneven, then check the valve by turning it the right way up and fill it with penetrating oil then push the ball at the bottom gently down with a straight pick, the oil will drain out if everything is working correctly.

[@HappyHands.]

you know he's a serious metal worker when he's got 4 Makita grinders ;)

[@imnew2nm324]

Just took all of my lash adjusters out of my 2004' 3.7 Jeep Liberty after the Jeep spit out three exhaust valve rocker arms. Every single one of them had stuck check balls, and almost all of them had seized pistons. Question for all??? How do I get the check balls cleaned up and unstuck? Tried soaking in carb. cleaner overnight and nothing..... Thanks

[@imnew2nm324]

I promise from this day forward, all synthetic oil, with Seafoam additive and much more frequent oil changes. The inside of the engine is all gooey feeling to touch it with your finger. I've rebuilt a number of engines in my life and never seen this. I normally use 5-30 Havoline regular oil with changes at 5-6k miles, and the Jeep is not just a short-distance rig, it gets out and runs freeways too. But, it's still getting sludged up at 70,000 miles.

[@JF32304]

I'd definitely run some BG EPR through it every other oil change and switch to Royal purple. to me soft parts are always cheaper than hard part's.

[@shaunkuhn9443]

Great video currently doing this on my 04 dodge ram 1500 4.7 and you made it a lot easier for me thannks

[@mugiver411]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@raymondjohnson2103]

I have a 2003 jeep. 4.7 that has a clicking noise. I replaced all the lifters but the noise is still there. Do you know what it could be? Thank you for any information.

[@jameszigler7920]

awesome help bud! I'm having to replace my valve seals and found that my lash adjusters are sticking as well. currently rebuilding them or replacing as i'm doing my seals. thanks again for the vid!

[@tunnelportterror]

very informative...but just a friendly FYI- you can buy a complete set of new lifters on ebay for around $35 now. just put new ones in. the valvetrain is rapping even after you cleaned those and freed them up, it sounds like the oil passages in the head are blocked.

[@tylergeorge9266]

This might sound dumb but to remove all the lifters and rocker arms on both sides do I have to rotate the engine at all? Cause I know some of those lobes on the cams are pointed up and down.

[@jonrandall5490]

I have a 2000 Grand Cherokee 4.7L with 224,000 miles. Just bought it 2 months ago. Previous owner said it stopped running 3 months ago. Too many cobwebs for just 3 months. I had to replace the fuel pump assembly to get it to run at all. It has a pretty bad miss. Scanner shows 5 codes. P0203 > injector circuit open cylinder 3. P0204 > injector circuit open cyl. 4. P0300 Multiple misfires detected. P0302 cylinder 2 misfires detected. P0307 cylinder 7 misfires detected. At highway speed it acts ok if going downhill. Pulling up hill it misses like it is running on 6 or 7 cylinders. A repair shop replaced 8 plugs and 4 coils with aftermarket version ones and some of the current misfires are on cylinders where new coils are installed. He also installed new crank and camshaft sensors. I don't know if I have coil issues or injector issues, or other problems. Oil looks very clean, so I have not changed it. Not sure what to try. I have spent a fair amount of $$$ and don't have much to show for it. Currently have 2 bottles of Gumout Fuel System additive in the tank. Suggestions greatly appreciated.

[@livenfree]

What did you end up finding out?

[@thegodfaher81]

I have a 2002 dodge ram and it's got misfire on cyl.6 coil it's ok injector. And check compression and it's got 125 psi.so there is a chance that the problem is on the lifter ?

[@mugivermusclemachines5744]

With that kind of compression, I would think your lifters and valves are okay. If your compression was way low then I would suspect valvetrain. Maybe double check your injector and coil and spark plug. Also check the insulator boot around spark plug sometimes they split and the spark jumps to the head and msfires that way. Thanks for watching good luck! don't forget to subscribe like and share!

[@late4suppa1]

This is a great video. I recently bought a 2004 WJ with the 4.7 L engine. It started dropping while idling and eventually just started running rough. I heard all the usual BS. Spark plugs, coil pack, test for codes. All wishful thinking. I even called a guy I was thinking of using for a mechanic and could tell within 2 minutes that I knew more from watching this video than he does. So anyways, I went out, took off the left valve cover because that's where the sound is loudest when it starts running like crap. No rocker arms have fallen off but I'm planning on replacing the valve lashes tomorrow. I'm sure I'll find one that's not working. There is some sludge, not bad, but there's some. My oil pressure is always between 40 and 50. I'll replace or repair these lash adjusters and do the same thing to the other side when it warms up. I did buy a code tester. I'm getting a misfire on cylinder 3. Code testers are great but you gotta know what to do with the information you get. I'll let you know what happens. I love this Jeep and so far it's been pretty easy to work on. Thanks again!

[@JF32304]

wait. so you didn't check coil packs or spark plugs? I would do that before anything... but to each their own.

[@44hawk28]

Port of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase about a week before you're going to do your oil change and drive the vehicle with it, will end that. It doesn't allow all the valve lash adjuster innards to get all jammed up. Save yourself another headache. Put solid adjusters on it. You can also put updated rockers on it as well as about 2008 cams and you'll have a heck of a lot more motor. Word of warning, warning warning warning, WD-40 is not a lubricant. It is a solvent. You do not want to put that inside those lash Adjusters without copious amounts of oil. WD-40 is a water displacement solvent design did World War II for getting rain out of ignition systems on deuce and a half trucks.

[@charliedee9276]

I fixed the problem with solid followers (lifters), had to readjust after 1000 miles and now quiet, even on cold start.

[@livenfree]

What did you do to readjust them? solid lifters work ok? Don't need spring loading?

[@charliedee9276]

@@livenfree It is a threaded ball end screwed into the body with a lock nut to keep the length. They run with a pretty tight lash ( I run mine at the recommended minimum lash of .0015") measured between the rocker roller and the cam lobe. To readjust them they have to be removed individually after checking the lash and the length adjusted by screwing the ball end into the body to decrease the length or out to increase it and using the lock nut to hold that position. It's pretty tedious getting them down that tight however worth it to me. I now have thousands of miles on them and love them. So nice not hearing the clatter on start up and having the piece of mind that a rocker will never kick out. The plus is it runs better also.

[@livenfree]

@@charliedee9276 thank you for explaining

[@petedamron]

Why didn't you prime the lifters. And why didn't you film and show lifters returned normal?

[@danielsmith2447]

I don't know how wise it is to put a screwdriver on the cam lobes, you can use a 10mm wrench with the open end bent at 90 degrees to pop them off at the lifter end. The hydraulic lash adjusters (lifters) only cost about five bucks each so no need to waste time disassembling them.

[@jjs777fzr]

Same thing happened to my '04 Liberty with the v6 3.7L. As I had it towed to the mechanic as I didnt have time to deal with it - I believe they said it had happened to two of them during the one incident. Only had like 75k miles on the motor - never beat - regular oil change intervals.

[@mrhighway]

+jjs777fzr Fiat-Chrysler CEO Sergio Marchionne

[@Toolaholic7]

Don't do it with a screwdriver,will nick the cam lobe not being careful.Buy the special tool from Miller tool.Another reason why they come out is the valve seat comes out of place

[@rynharddevilliers1470]

dont understand, i replaced all my lifters and again .. .same dropping problem? could this be something else than lifters??

[@jezzman321]

its usually the gap caused by the oil bleeding off overnight, causing them to really "flop" around on startup and allow them to fall off

[@mugiver411]

it could be that the valve seats have shifted or "drooped", this would not be a good day.

[@WakeUpB4uDie]

It could be the chain tentioners letting it slap around as well.

[@JF32304]

LOL! yes this would not be a good day. head swap day.

[@JF32304]

chain tension has nothing to do with rockers dropping. they're dropping because the pressure they require to stay in their rightful position is no longer there.

[@MsBrumak]

What was the compression? Was the engine knocking?

[@mugiver411]

Yes engine was knocking because of the rocker fell off. Didn't check compression, ran fine after the fix and oil pumped up the adjuster. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@raulmp72]

Would this condition be the reason for having zero compression in the cylinder? I have a 04 wj 4.7HO with super rough and loud idle, I changed injectors, spark plugs, and coils and nothing changed. The mechanic said that there is zero compression in cylinder #2. Thoughts?

[@mugiver411]

Yes, if your valves are not opening due to fallen rocker(s).... or valve(s) could be stuck open or a fallen/dropped seat....blown head gasket can cause a no compression or low compression condition. Of course there are worse reasons, like thrown rod, cracked head. I would pull the valve cover and inspect the rockers first, hope this helps you!

[@gubjarturegilsson3766]

Raul Pineda did you ever found out what was wrong?

[@nacholibre1962]

This is the most informative video I've seen of this issue, Thanks very much!

[@asksteevies4941]

Yes it's due to dirty oil not changing the oil that happened to the jeep I just bought and the guy was running around with three exhaust valves off and it blew the head gasket on that side

[@jeffpauley467]

Hi mugiver411; Grateful for you sharing this on KZbin ! My 2004 Cherokee 4.7 (116k miles, 2nd owner, bought it at 102k miles ) has spit out the #1 intake rocker, and the lifter seems stuck, apparently the check ball problem. The head valve/lifter area appear very clean, possibly due, at least partially due to using synthetic oil and Seafoam the last 2 oil changes. I don't know the Jeep's history, I took apart the lifter (valve lash adjuster) per your method) and it was nasty and thick gummed up inside. I plan to use your washer/shim method on this lifter (as well as replacing all lifters) and have this question: Even though other rockers haven't spit out yet, would it be reasonable to shim all the lifters for "just in case" since I'm already working on it? The only downside to it that I can foresee is that I would be limiting the lifters "range of adjustability" in such a manner as to possibly cause another problem? I plan to check clearances with cam lobe pressure released in determining if a possible dropped seat problem exists, which may be the root cause of this clearance problem in the first place....

[@jeffpauley467]

OK, first and foremost, I previously mis-identified which lifter was bad, it was actually the No.1 cylinder exhaust valve rocker that spit out, caused by a partially dropped seat I theorize. Moving on... the new lifters arrived, installed all new ones on driver's side of engine. I did put in two 3//16 flat washers (total spacer thickness is approximately .075") under the No.1 lifter. Before changing out lifters I checked all rockers with cam lobe opposite of rocker roller, and none of the rockers were loose, so I don't feel like another rocker is about to spit out (hopefully). Also cranked over engine while the No.1 exhaust valve lifter was out of its bore and oil at first didn't fill the "chamber" until the engine cranked for about 7-10 seconds, so either the oil supply hole was plugged up or this is typical for these engines after sitting for 5 days. Warmed it up thoroughly and then took it out and stomped on the gas pedal, took her up to 5k rpm's thru the gears and everything seems good... real good!!!

[@livenfree]

@@jeffpauley467 So any more problems 3 years later? Did they all stay in? Did you every get an answer if oil should have filled chamber right away?

[@jeffpauley467]

Michigander Jeff here... it’s running great at 137,000 still, and have continued using full synthetic oil, Walmart brand very reasonably priced, pay a little more for the best filter but seems worth it.

[@jeffpauley467]

Michigander and I don’t know the answer about oil filling the chamber quickly... I’m way too lazy to recheck it, that’s for sure

[@livenfree]

@@jeffpauley467 thank you!

[@charredskeleton]

Do you think soaking the lifters in solvent might work vs taking them apart? I get that soaking might take too long as a vehicle might be needed.

[@mugiver411]

I wouldn't recommend that.

[@livenfree]

@@mugiver411 WHY NOT?

[@mugiver411]

@@livenfree KEEP IN MIND, THIS IS ONLY MY OPINION. He said "soaking in solvent" this might work, but then you'll introduce solvent into your oil which may cause other damage throughout the engine. Also the viscosity is way thinner than oil. Just my opinion.

[@charredskeleton]

@@mugiver411 Use a solvent that evaporates and pound on them to get most of it out? Give them a chance to dry out? Soak them in fresh oil after, pound more? Changing the oil in short order is probably advisable anyway, something's getting knocked loose during a repair like this. Or on the other hand soaking in ATF would probably do it. The whole set can't hold more then a pint, after pounding 1/2 a pint tops. 1/2 a pint of ATF isn't going to harm anything. At the end of the day a new set is $30-$50 can't say that it's worth cleaning the old ones for that much.

[@Ifyoucantdodgeitramit]

Well how the hell do ya put the rockers back in?

[@JF32304]

slide them in the reverse way you took them out. make sure the cam lobe is in the upwards position.

[@paulstandaert2042]

Are the followers falling off of the intake or exhaust? A person could suspect carbon buildup on the valve stems, causing them to bind up in the guides and when the cam lobe loses contact with the follower, it can get ejected and it's instantly going to run rough again.

[@mugiver411]

both intake and exhaust.

[@JF32304]

I can't imagine there would be enough carbon buildup on the stem to stop a valve from coming up all the way.

[@96dodgeram]

How did you rotate the cam to get the rest of the rockers arms out ? Bump the starter or turn the engine on the crank shaft nut ?

[@mugiver411]

+96dodgeram I used a socket on the crankshaft.

[@JF32304]

put a socket on a breaker bar and then put that on your harmonic balancer pulley rotate the engine that way. super easy. you can bump the starter but it will be bump bump bump bump to get it where you need it. socket is much faster and more accurate.

[@danmalloy3939]

I am aware it could be the cam is worn even though it's not or the valve is not closing all the way even though it is so I have no idea

[@Stitch2Scope]

The same thing is wrong with mine right now. Same model and we fixed it and it dropped 2 more right after we fixed it

[@livenfree]

Having same issue in 2020. What was your solution? Mechanic says might be plugged oil sump. Also plugged oil ports to lifters sounds like an issue I see people talking about here.

[@sagedunagan1588]

how did you remove the valve lash adjusters without the spring compressor tool?

[@mugiver411]

+Sage Dunagan In the video I show how to easily remove the rocker arm. Once the rocker arm is out the valve lash adjuster just pulls straight up and out. No need for a spring compressor.

[@RichsFishes]

I'm about to tackle this one myself. How does the re-install of the rocker arms work without that chrysler tool?

[@mugivermusclemachines5744]

Rotate the engine with a socket wrench connected to the crank until the cam lobe is at its furthest point away from the rocker, then pry the rocker arm out as I show in the video. If possible, use a none marring tool to pry against the cam lobe! you don't want to even scratch it!. Good luck!

[@JF32304]

haha you're not removing a valve. You're simply removing the rocker. rotate engine till the lobe is in the upwards position. slip the rocker out and pull the unit out. DO not try to take the valve out, that's not the issue here.

[@livenfree]

@@mugivermusclemachines5744 What is a non marring tool? Not a screw driver I would guess lol

[@moneyyfn]

good video didnt take lifters apart but installed new ones so far so good and also did oil change

[@raptor700dans]

Sounded to me like it was still rattling like hell maybe you should’ve just replaced them when you had them out they’re not that expensive

[@mugiver411]

It did quit rattling after a few minutes, took a little time or the oil to get into them.

[@zxtenn]

You know that clogged lifter problem seems similar to the Ford 4.6 /5.4 that I have seen here- So did it eventually quiet down? I have a 96 GC 5.2 with 142,000 miles, after seeing these higher tech engines fail unless maintained within a clean room I think I will keep my less fuel efficient 5.2

[@mugiver411]

Yes it did quiet down, tapping noise went away shortly after the end of the video. it just takes time for the adjustors to pump up with oil, this is known as "self adjusting".

[@mauricewilson9013]

mugiver411 p Fiji

[@rustedratchetgarage6788]

jim dandy the 4.6/5.4 used the exact same lifter check the parts numbers it's true

[@Maxxis1941]

Excellent video! Done its of research & vid watching of 4.7L issues and this is the best. Detailed and explained well. Do more videos please (buy a GoPro head strap to make it easier). Liked and sub'd.

[@deathcon6669]

I new it last year my truck did this and I got them push rodes new and the would not move like that o and I got like 9 of them that was all AutoZone had and I went to return them and they would not take them

[@juanmartinez-rh1hb]

Will a bad lifter cuase your exhaust to smoke

[@mugiver411]

no, not typically in itself. however it may be possible for a bad lifter to cause other components to fail and then smoke. usually engines smoke because of worn piston rings and-or worn valve seals. Anybody else out there want to chime in?

[@juanmartinez-rh1hb]

Thanks

[@Ap-nv1hk]

mugiver411 a bad valver cover gasket leaking oil on to the exhaust will smoke until the oil is burned off

[@royvinator1945]

That sounds horrible. How's it holding up?

[@stanthology]

Good video. Very instructive. I am thinking of buying a Jeep with this motor. Now I'm going, "Hmmmm".

[@braintumor943]

Dude what was it doing

[@Dakmaxx1218]

When I go to put the rockers, with new lifters, back on they are very loose and you can just push them off with your finger. I don't want to put the valve cover back on and find out they fell off again. Solution?

[@mugiver411]

+Brady Barnes The new lifters need to be "pumped up", or filled with oil. You can do this by putting the lifter in a cup with oil and depressing and releasing the lifter a few times. Don't over fill them though, as the oil is what adjusts the lifter (measure the height after each time until it fits with maybe .020 - .040 clearance when installed). After the engine runs a little bit and finishes filling the adjusters with oil the noise and shaking will slowly go away as long as there is not any other issues like a dropped valve seat. This is what I done and it worked for me.

[@JF32304]

it's either the lifter or the valve seat dropped, when the valve seat drops the valve sticks down further. in doing so The tension between the rocker and cam lobe is decreased. hence the rocker will slip out.

[@JF32304]

mugiver is talking about 'priming' the lifter. Witg a brand new lifter they are empty and need to be filled with oil. you can submerge them in oil and pump it to prime it. real simple. this should be done to decrease the amount of wear on the lifter when it's brand new.

[@livenfree]

@@JF32304 How do you check if a valve seat droppped?

[@JF32304]

@@livenfree pull the valve cover and rotate the engine very slowly, check the tension the on all the valves and rocker arms, if the cam lobe is up and the rocker is loose... That's probably a dropper valve seat, because it's not letting the valve come all the way up in turn it's not putting tension on the rocker arm. If you have a rocker arm sitting in the valley that's probably due to a dropped valve seat....

[@scottfiocchi596]

totally excellent video

[@joeeissner7639]

Thanks mugiver411 for the vid. I believe I may have the same issue as you, 1999 jeep grand cherokee 4.7. If you have time to respond...This repair is new to me, How did you get the rockers out where as the lobes were compressing them? Thanks again

[@livenfree]

Well sadly after 5 years no answer! What did you you end up doing? I believe you have to turn the crank I seem to recall?

[@MrEbusinessexpress]

Its not the lifters. Its valve seats that dropped or carbon on the valves not allowing them to close fully. There isnt enough tolerance built in to take up that much slack if the valve is hanging up when closing. They will fail again. The real fix is remove cylinder heads and have a competent machine shop inspect valves. Went through this on my 3.7.

[@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf]

OH SHIT BILLY!!!! YOU GOT YERSELF SUM DROOPED VALVE SEATS. My customer got a misfire from Haiti after overheating. Check it out, 4.7 jeep valve seat. So..... You check out the length of your valve along w, the other lengths of the valves. If you got a shorty not hitting the can and keeping her tight. You got a loose valve seat and need to pull the head. Your dancing valve seat is only clapping up the head. Maybe I will KZbin my project arriving at my house on Sunday. I was thinking of compressing the spring and trying to twirl the valve and see of I can get the seat straight and pull it with the spring back to home. But its a jeep thing. Piece of disaster. Check out the new hemi jeep or jeep compass. They blow head gaskets at 40 to 60k It is mayhem. Especially w/ Daimler Chrysler which I like to call Damien the devil. And their circuit board fuse boxes w/ melt downs. I hate Damien christ.

[@maddogmicknyatv]

thanks helped me a lot

[@mugiver411]

Glad it helped you!

[@lonnielengkeek7]

Or you can buy them for $3.50 a piece and that's what I did, saved a lot of time👌👈

[@TheRoguelement]

Dear Sir If your going to repair this do yourself a huge huge favor and purchase Marvel Mystery oil and dump a quart in your Jeep with every oil change and the inside of your motor will look like New

[@BuiltByRik]

Yep always keep changing regulat oil this is a modern performance engine and needs clean oil. I replaced mine with solid lifters. No more problems. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iXSzl4x-jspso7M

[@davidwhite5413]

Thank you very much

[@poolmotorrepairguyFL]

that was a fix ? that thing sounded like old foot pedal sewing machine. might want to run sea foam threw these motors every other oil change ? thanks for the vid, these are a pos motor.

[@mugiver411]

All of the tapping noise went away shortly after the video, it just takes a little time for the oil to pump up the adjusters to the proper length. I agree with pos.

[@chrissoyo5661]

lp

[@screwheadgonzalez4197]

I have the same problem I was told it was the oil pump. And it's not getting enough pressure so that's why it knocks off the rockers??? What's your opinion???

[@livenfree]

@@screwheadgonzalez4197 Having same issue being told its a plugged oil sump. What did you find?

[@367cuba1]

well done!

[@rich6081]

BUY NEW LIFTERS! GESS!

[@lostnthe70s]

I respect your enthusiasm,but that lifter isn't supposed to have that much play., according to the other mechanic.ive watched.????

[@Wade_Winter]

huge help!

[@kellytrosper2020]

awesome. thank you

[@jtorres698]

thank you sir

[@Truthorshit]

Thank you

[@chalinoahuesoduro5566]

SNAP goes the CAM!!!!! EEEehh!

[@mugiver411]

Arrogant mechanics really don't know shit.... LMFO

[@shaneonews6791]

Just get solid lifters and rocker lockers.. problem solved.

[@kennethdandurand3472]

Oh, and that includes the bent screwdriver.....

[@nobonespurs]

thank you so mucjh!

[@rustyshineldecker4224]

Seams like you could soak them overnight in diesel fuel and break down the crud in them instead of tearing each one apart.

[@Jason-je7qj]

thanks a lot!!

[@mugiver411]

You're welcome thanks for watching don't forget to like share and subscribe!

[@i_n_t_e_l_l_i_g_e_n_c_e8109]

Always use NEW lifters, what you need are the springs and the seals contained in the new lifter that keeps your lifters pumped up with oil. Never start your engine without soaking your NEW lifters in oil overnight. Everything about this video is wrong and I will leave it at that.

[@i_n_t_e_l_l_i_g_e_n_c_e8109]

A new set of lifters American made and high quality Melling sells for about 85 dollars for a complete set on Rockauto (welcome to the future) or you can buy even half price cheap Chinese for under $50 dollar a complete set on Amazon which is still a far better option than attempting to rebuild old lifters with weak springs and brittle seals. This video should be removed, you are misguiding people and having them risk critical engine failure that can not be fixed with lifters alone.