07 17 21 Honda VTX 1300r Brake Fluid Flush

[@chr00bs]

So I tackled my brake fluid today, my brakes were so snappy, and didnt engage until it felt like full pressure, after the flush, I can get nice progressive pressure! It feels way better, and safer, thank you sir for making these maintenance videos, they have been a life saver! I appreciate your attention to detail and carefulness! keep up the good work, and uh, go Pack go. I miss living in WI sometimes, I grew up in West Allis, now im in Arkansas. Subscribed, and If I'm ever up there, we should go for a ride!

[@OnTheEdgeNow]

I couldn't believe the difference in my brakes after I flushed the fluid. Glad it worked out for you. If you ever get up here we can go for a ride and grab a burger.

[@jonathanneville7105]

Thank you so much for this video. It was a huge help.

[@OnTheEdgeNow]

Glad to hear it helped you out.

[@Omar-Dawood]

this is really helpful because i recently acquired a 06 vtx 1300c with 1800 miles on the clock but it seems like it has all original fluids

[@LewTh3Jew]

Pretty good timing for these uploads ! I’ve got a 2004 1300c and was looking to do some maintenance. Seems like you’ve posted most of the things I’m looking to do. Thanks man !

[@OnTheEdgeNow]

You are welcome, I hope they help you out. I know they are a little boring but I try to show everything. Hopefully it helps in making the decision to do it yourself or taking it to a professional easier.

[@CoryMcIntyrePrsnTech]

Appreciate the upload sir. Just curious as to why not leave the caliper on the bike?

[@OnTheEdgeNow]

The bike was new to me and I didn't feel I was getting the front braking I should have been. By taking the caliper off I was able to compress the caliper pistons and make sure they weren't sticking. It also empties the calipers of just about all the fluid. The bike is a 2007 with a little over 5000 miles on it. I don't believe the brake system had ever been serviced so by taking the caliper off I got a more in depth look as a baseline for future service. The one thing I did notice is the brake line seems to expand when pressing the brake. I bought a stainless braided line and am going to try that. In a perfect world they would have used a double disk on the front for better braking. To answer your question would you have to take the caliper off? No you wouldn't, but I was looking for a sticking piston or caliper.

[@Jeff-Cranston]

Excellent video. Can you tell me where you got your bleed kit for the rear?

[@OnTheEdgeNow]

I think I bought it at one of my local auto parts stores. I originally bought it to work on the brakes on my car, but it also works well on my cycle.

[@Jeff-Cranston]

@@OnTheEdgeNow I just bought one last night on Amazon for a reasonable price. In my case, and I just fully realized it yesterday when riding it for the first time in a few weeks (due to TX heat) was that I had close to zero rear brakes so I was depending on my front brakes. (local drive). When I got home I could see the calipers weren't budging when I hit the brakes. I had my fluid replaced by a mechanic about 5 or 6 years ago front and rear. And I don't see any fluid leaks. So in one Group on FB, it's either that the piston in the caliper is seized up or the master cylinder is junked up. In either case, step one is to at least eyeball the fluid in the container. And if it looks ok, to take the caliper off and and see what it does off the wheel. Those kinds of things.

[@OnTheEdgeNow]

@cranstjs I always try the simple things first. In my case, I don't believe the fluid was ever changed, so I think my fluid was in bad shape. With the rear brake reservoir by the exhaust and living in Texas, I imagine the fluid sees its fair share of heat. Making sure the caliper pins are not froze is another good thing to check. Good luck on getting everything back into good working order.

[@Jeff-Cranston]

@@OnTheEdgeNow Thanks. The issue I'm having now is, because my rear brakes weren't working at all to stop the bike, I took the caliper off and exercised the brake once. I saw a little bit of movement. I move the pads out of the way and pumped the brake pedal about 8 times and the piston moved about 3/4". So it's moving out for sure. But then I tried to use a c-clamp to push the piston back in and it wouldn't budge. I loosened the cap at the reservoir and still no. So today I got the bleed kit and did a bleed of only about 5 ml and lo and behold, the piston would move in wiht the bleed screw still loosened. (I have a syringe type bleeder vs your pump type.). BUT, when I tightened up the bleed screw and tried that exercise again, again I couldn't push the piston it. I tried loosening the cover of the reservoir and again, can't push the piston in. I have suspicion that this is a problem with the master cylinder which is supposed to allow it to relax the piston when you let off the brakes. I'm still testing however.

[@Jeff-Cranston]

@@OnTheEdgeNow Well I experiemented a little more and as long as I open the bleed screw I can get the piston all the way in. So I decided, after the full flush (and I made more a mess than you did. But I cleaned it up) to reassemble everything and put it back on the wheel. I rolled the bike out to the driveway, pumped the brakes a few times, and voila, I have brakes again and they relax. Go figure. I will give it the acid test with a ride tomorrow.