08 KTM 450 OIL MIGRATION CASE MOD

How to fix oil migration problem without splitting the cases.
Remove clutch cover and drill a small hole just below the shift drum.
Drilled bigger hole 5mm lower down.
www.ktmforums.com/threads/i-d...

[@RIPPERTON]

Watch this video. It shows the final larger 6mm hole I drilled. Dont bother drilling the 2 small holes in the main video, just drill the 6mm hole low down. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYOoondmgaqKhKM

[@RIPPERTON]

This bike now has 415 hours on the clock and is running fine. Top end has never been touched. To check the oil level I just undo the gearbox level check bolt and lean the bike over to the right about 20 degrees till oil comes out and its good. This mod has given the bike a new lease on life and will easily do 500 hours.

[@WillysRubicon]

When you say you lean the bike 20 degrees. Do you mean 20 to the exhaust side or 20 to the kickstand side? Great video, will be performing this mod this winter.

[@RIPPERTON]

@@WillysRubicon to the right.

[@WillysRubicon]

@@RIPPERTON got it, thanks! When filling after an oil change do you just fill a specific amount and after running, check the level with the 20 degrees lean method?

[@MrBebosidrina]

Gracias lo hice y problema resuelto. 👍👍👍👍

[@RIPPERTON]

Haha I translate. "Thanks I did it and problem solved"

[@samueleiaconelli8644]

if I join the two cups, can I keep the automatic distribution tensioner or is it better to put the manual?

[@Beking112]

Hello, I have a problem. With the KTM 450 exc-f 2017 six days, it is returning the oil to the cylinder, even though we changed all the new parts, we checked the oil pumps and we cleaned the channels but still the same problem, do you have any idea where the problem is.

[@martynjames5963]

I just did this to mine. One 5mm hole. When turning off the bike the engine oil level drops pretty quick to its static level.have to tip bike slightly to see. I'm keeping the level just above the window. Means gear oil slightly low by estimated 1cm. Might put a bit more in. Just using engine oil. Didn't need to take the clutch off.

[@RIPPERTON]

Thats right. The engine oil will now be above the window so the window is useless. Now use the gearbox level bolt under the kickstarter. Lean the bike over to the right and keep filling oil into the engine filler plug till oil comes out of the gearbox level bolt. Good work, thanks for the feedback.

[@martynjames5963]

@@RIPPERTON I did that. Instinct. It's just a little low - as the engine is a little high. It still sucks oil to the engine side - will keep an eye on it. I don't ride hard - just gently.

[@martynjames5963]

I ran it for a couple of hard hours off road and everything was fine. The oil returns to the gearbox pretty quickly - can see the level going down at the window when turned off (tipping it over to the right). The level is just a little over the window.

[@dunkathon5000]

Hey Rippy, how are the oil levels after the mod? Also, are you running the same oil in the gear and engine cases?

[@RIPPERTON]

Levels are good, Just did 35ks out Wheeny this arvo and stopped during the ride to look at the window. I could see the oil level as I tipped the bike from side to side. I always used to put the same oil in engine and gbox before the mod so joining the 2 wont bother it. I pulled the gbox screen out and there wasnt too much metal on it. The box is on its last legs but the engine is pristine. Also the gbox breather is behaving itself now too. It was chuggin oil into the carb. I did a kick delete but the idler has to be there cause its an oil air separator.

[@nickg2431]

@@RIPPERTON Hi there when you say the gearbox is on its last legs is this typical and how many hours should it last cheers

[@robinsongguitars]

I just bought a 2010 KTM 530 EXCR. Don't know if the oil migrates, but will be doing your mod here. Just wondering exactly where the hole should be drilled? And diameter? Some guys are drilling holes randomly. I want to get it right the first time. How big can the new hole be? Is bigger better? I want to keep the kickstarter with this mod. How should I reroute the breathers so oil doesn't get into the air cleaner? Any other info would be appreciated. thx

[@RIPPERTON]

watch the video in my pinned reply, the endoscope one. Shows exactly where to drill. 6mm should do with a 3mm pilot.

[@rileyhicks8421]

Just got a 2008. Have you done the mod yet?

[@robinsongguitars]

@@rileyhicks8421 Yes and I made my hole 1/2" diameter to allow true oil flow between the two sumps. I had to remove the spring loaded dent arm for the shift drum to have access for the larger hole. EZ after you remove the shift shaft. Clean everything really well prior as dirt can get inside the cases. I wanted the two sumps to actually have oil move between them. Not sure if a 6mm hole will allow that. Went on an off-road ride today and everything is nice. Keep in mind the oil level check points are different heights. The tranny weep hole is about 1" higher than the top of motor oil window. In actuality with 1400cc of oil the motor oil sump will be about 1/2" above the top of the sight window and the tranny side will be about 1/2" below the weep hole in the clutch cover. Shouldn't hurt anything unless you plan to cruise the interstates for hours on end like a Harley at 80mph. Earlier RFS motors would cook the 5th and 6th gears from guys riding a lot of extended high speed pavement in ADV rides. The RFS motor had a single sump and would only hold about 1-1/4 qt of oil and without an oil cooler the oil would literally boil off the wear additives and the oil would migrate away for the 5th and 6th gears toasting the tranny on extended high speed highway miles. I have a Rekluse clutch and Rekluse clutch cover which allows for more oil (1500cc total).

[@purebloodheretic4682]

Get an Old 450 or 525 RFS Model! They're a Great Bike! 👍

[@gixxer7907]

I agree! I own both not a single problem, great bikes!

[@jurajbartek4945]

hi i have ktm exc 450 my problem is that the oil from the engine is migrating to the transmission .... adjusting as in your video will solve my problem ??

[@RIPPERTON]

Yes, drill the hole ! See video at 13:15. Drill just below the small hole 6mm

[@RIPPERTON]

Read this thread. thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1377836-i-drilled-a-hole-in-my-gearbox-08-ktm-450-oil-migration-mod/

[@jurajbartek4945]

Thanks …… i will try this adjustment on my exc 2010 .... i give 0.6 to the engine gearbox 0.9 will the oil level be enough after adjustment when I pour 1.5 ???

[@aaronschraner]

Thank you for this video Ripperton. I am not mechanically inclined but I am have a good mechanic that can help me if you have solved the problem we are experiencing. I have a 2008 KTM 450 exc which has started to leak oil out of one of the black rubber tubes which is connected towards the top left hand side of the engine and goes down to the rear swingarm section. Did you have the same problem and did this solve it?

[@RIPPERTON]

"Top left side of engine" need to be more exact. Are you talking about the valve cover ?

[@aaronschraner]

@@RIPPERTON Thank you for writing back Ripperton. Looking more closely at the tubes, it starts as one tube coming out of the left hand side of the carburetor, then becomes a "T" joint sending one tube down towards the swing arm (this is the one where the oil is spewing out when the bike is warm) and the other tube also travels downward and connects to the top of the lower section of the engine (it connects to the engine directly behind a silver cylinder which I believe is the electric start motor). I hope this explanation helps. If you need pictures, I can ask my kids to help me later tonight when they get home on how to post them here. This is my sons account as I am also not computer savvy. Thank you again for your help.

[@RIPPERTON]

@@aaronschraner Assuming these tubes are black about finger size, they are breather hoses. Also assuming you have the same engine as I do, it will be coming from the right side of the carburettor not the left. Get your mechanic to remove the kick start idler gear, behind the clutch. then see if the holes in the bronze bush align with the holes in the steel gear. If not, press the bush out and re-insert it so the holes line up perfectly. Do not try to drill the holes out. These holes align to create a cylinder that centrifugally ejects oil back into the gbox but allows air to pass out centripetally via the idler gear stub shaft. As I said before this gear is an oil air separator.

[@aaronschraner]

@@RIPPERTON Thank you Ripperton!!!! Yes you are 100% correct they are black and about finger sized. I will have the mechanic do this. Would it be a good idea to drill the hole in the motor at the same time as a precautionary measure for future oil migration? I have read about this problem online and you seem to have found an ingenious solution to the problem.

[@RIPPERTON]

​@@aaronschraner Depends on how many hours. Mine had 360h before it started playing up. I drilled a bigger hole lower down, not in video. check out this thread. www.ktmforums.com/threads/i-drilled-a-hole-in-my-gearbox-08-oil-migration-fix.137263/#post-1012054

[@thetrailwaychildren]

How I this mod holding up?

[@RIPPERTON]

Great, its given the bike a new lease of life. Its coming up to 400 hours. I wish I had another one of these to do a proper video with just one hole.

[@thetrailwaychildren]

@@RIPPERTON good job. Just watched it a few times, just a few questions. First is this the same area you would drill on the 530exc? How much oil are you now putting into the engine? Does it matter which filler hole you pour the oil into? Have you had any issues with oil in the airbox? How often are you going with oil changes now? And finally have you inspected the internals for and signs of starvation or too much oil in certain areas, if so would you think a bigger hole would be better and what size? Sorry for all the questions lol just want to be certain before I go all out. I've just brought all the parts to do oil pump upgrade and 500exc rocker shaft replacement so hoping this will complete the mods for an awesome reliable bike

[@RIPPERTON]

@@thetrailwaychildren The 530 should have the same castings yes. I havnt done an oil change since the mod but I keep it above the engine oil window and fill through the engine oil plug. I had oil surging into the carb through the breather during steep climbs but realigned the kick start idler bush so the holes line up. Its a centrifugal oil air separator. I also did an oil pump gear upgrade but havnt taken the clutch cover off since the mod. Im not seeing any metal in the screens so Im not going in there. The engine runs fine and doesnt make noise so I just ride it. A 5 or 6mm hole should do fine. I turned my rocker shafts 180 degrees so the rockers had a fresh surface to run on. The lower oil pump cover oring is too thin, replace it or the whole cover with later model.

[@thetrailwaychildren]

@@RIPPERTON sounds good! I'll be going into the engine over Xmas so I might do a video of the mods and I'll be sure to give you a mention for this one. So much easier than splitting the cases I can't believe it's only recently been done! Hope I don't get too many shavings in the left side when I drill the hole though

[@thetrailwaychildren]

@@RIPPERTON I've just finished up doing the single sump mod along with the oil pump upgrade and the kick start idler breather. Feeling much mure confident about longer trips now. One thing though, I fitted it back up and my clutch won't disengage. Did you have to bleed the clutch? If not, any ideas what's going on?