10 Tips - How to Trim, Grade & Clip Seams

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You can sew a perfectly beautiful seam, but if it isn't trimmed, graded or clipped properly it can look bulky, lumpy and bumpy! In this video I'll show you my top tips for achieving lovely smooth seams thanks to trimming, grading, clipping and notching sewing techniques. These techniques go hand in hand with and are just as important as good pressing and I've linked a tips for pressing in sewing and dressmaking video below.
Not all seams need to be trimmed or graded, for example a side seam or centre back seam can usually be left in tact and pressed and will sit beautifully.
Generally trimming, grading, clipping and notching needs to take place on enclosed seams such as collars, lapels, facings, linings, pocket flaps etc. Anywhere where bulk and lots of layers of fabric might cause a problem. There are some instances where it is usually recommended a seam is trimmed or graded, which aren't enclosed, such as an armhole or crotch seam. Usually this is recommended in the pattern instructions and they will usually also recommend a second line of reinforcement stitching is completed.
My mantra is always to test on scraps of fabric first, so if you're trying out any of these techniques for the first time have a go on scraps of your fabric first to make sure you are happy with the results. As your confidence and experience grows you will work out what you like best and what works best for you.
Always check the fit of the garment before trimming, grading or clipping those seam allowances because once you've completed these steps it will be a lot harder to adjust the fit.
You will often need to combine several of these techniques on one seam and we'll talk about that more in the video too.
Here are the examples I will show you in the video:
00:00 Introduction
03:52 Trimming and grading a seam
06:40 Trimming an intersecting seam (three methods)
09:41 Trimming a hem allowance
11:44 Trimming a dart
13:34 Grading a seam
15:33 Grading and clipping pivoted corners
21:29 Grading a folded corner
24:06 Trimming, grading and clipping a concave curve
27:16 Trimming, grading and notching a convex curve
30:35 Clipping a neckband seam
31:41 Conclusion

[@sheilaanderson9611]

Thank you. I’m getting back into sewing after many years of not sewing anything. Great reminders and clear demonstrations

[@sheenabatey3346]

This is so helpful, useful and you are great at getting things across into my little brain

[@SewEssential]

Aah thanks Sheena I'm so glad you found it helpful, I remember what it was like trying to learn some of this stuff sometimes and trying to find the right information, it was hard! I'm so glad it is making sense and helping people that's just the best result ever!

[@michaelgracewatts2943]

Thank you Lucy for all these reminders of how to trim,, grade and clip seams...Grace

[@karenhodgson7880]

Really really helpful , thank you

[@SewEssential]

Great stuff, I'm so pleased to be helpful to everybody, thank you for watching and commenting.

[@louisestevens5267]

I LOVE YOUR TOP,

[@SewEssential]

Thanks Louise! It is an Alice Temperley I bought in the sale from John Lewis I think. I loved it too, such a unique design and lovely colour, you know how much I love the bold colours!

[@janetgasston9888]

It has been a great viedo with lots of useful information thank you x

[@SewEssential]

Ah thanks so much Janet I really appreciate your lovely comments.

[@helenlord8893]

Another great informative video 👍 Thankyou Lucy 😀

[@SewEssential]

Thanks Helen, I'm so glad you enjoyed it, thank you for watching and commenting.

[@catherinehensley9159]

When I trim curves these days, I trim with pinking shears, saving myself the step of clipping

[@starbean2196]

I've been waiting for this video! I've come across this in so many patterns, but its never explained properly and I've found it very confusing. I'm certain I've never done it properly. Thank you for explaining it so clearly.

[@SewEssential]

Oh that's so great to hear, I'm so glad it was useful to you and agree they tell you to trim and grade in pattern instructions, but often the instructions are very limited. Happy trimming!

[@makeitjoyful]

Agree!

[@maryalgar8779]

I've watched this great video a second time and it appears you don't finish a seam unless it is a side seam, centre back seam and the like. Thanks for all the time and effort you put into this.

[@michellebrooks8005]

I thought she said that those are the seams that don't usually need finishing.

[@maryalgar8779]

@@michellebrooks8005 Thanks Michelle.

[@patriciaingram803]

Thanks for putting this together.

[@allisonjenkins5079]

Thank you Lucy for your time and trouble to explain these great tips and techniques.

[@emmabuxton7971]

Great video Lucy. It's good to be reminded of those brill tips to ensure a perfect result 😊

[@curveappeal8180]

This was extremely comprehensive!! Thank you 😊 I can see myself referring back to it in the future

[@AlisonWells-jh4yl]

Thank you Lucy a great video😀

[@annerobinson647]

Great tips thanks Lucy😃

[@suewilbur504]

Wow - great tips!! Thanks, Lucy.

[@WollongongSkyWatch]

Excellent instructional!

[@maryalgar8779]

This was a great summary of techniques Lucy, so I'm sure I'll be referring back to it many times. I did learn some new things. I am still puzzled about seam finishing: I'm assuming any seam finishing would be done after you trim, grade, clip/notch, but by then you are trying to seam finish a very narrow seam. Perhaps you mentioned it - I'll watch again.

[@louiseroberts9553]

Really helpful. Thank you 😊

[@allisonjenkins5079]

Ps.. it was great as other people have said to be shown how to do the clipping and grading rather than it just being an instruction on the pattern without explanation. Pattern companies (I've only used the big company ones) create patterns assuming sewers have the knowledge about construction techniques which can be off putting for beginners like me!

[@janetlink9756]

Thanks for explaining the convex and concave and the theory behind it for either notching or clipping.

[@patw6426]

Great tips Lucy, thank you

[@janeybwells2810]

Great video!

[@snugbumswallace7218]

Thanks for a great video mud is clearer. These are the things that non one explains. Do you have one on under stitching, stay stitching, stitch in a ditch top stitching please.

[@dorothyreynolds2178]

Thankyou sew well explained

[@sheelaghellis5937]

Excellent instruction

[@lodgechant]

So helpful! Thank you. With greetings from Cape Town!

[@christinesmoothy7780]

Very informative, thank you

[@elizabethray3589]

This was really helpful. Thank you x

[@suelongview9925]

Great tips ty

[@karengray2650]

Brilliant

[@nicolawetherall-stelling4615]

thank you, that was really useful, especially about the notches. Could you add a link for the pens you use for marking. I am yet to find a really good one. Thank you.

[@addysbeeandgarden320]

I love your shirt! Did you make it and is the fabric available on your website?

[@peeshyholland433]

Hi Lucy When you’re finishing the edges with the overlocker, do you do one side at a time or do you put the seam allowances together and overlock both sides at once?

[@lindajohnson8634]

Question: if you have finished your raw edge with an over locker and then you clip/ notch/reduce bulk, won’t the overlooked edge unravel? Thanks for the great video!

[@celestedabler7791]

Too much talking. Just show the right way.nb