10R80 Rebuild

2017 Ford F-150
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
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Transgo: transgo.com/
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ATSG: atsg.com/
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Jaggi"s: www.jaggiimpor...
Slauson's: www.slauson-tr...
Standard Transmission & Gear: standardtransm...
Wade's: www.wadetransm...
Bishop's: www.bishopengi...

[@patrickmcgowan7630]

I've been rebuilding automatic and manual trans, diff's and transfer case at AAMCO in southern Maryland for 42 years. I so appreciate your video's, we don't have to learn everything the hard way if you know what I mean, much respect Tom! Pat

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Started out in an AAMCO, even center manager trained, 39 years ago now. True that. Mostly started these because sometimes you misplaced a part and usually it is not in a manual anywhere. Actually this nothing of what I was starting this for, but that did not work out. Thought of what I could do since I had the camera and this is what became of it. It is like having a second full time job. Thanks for watching them!

[@sageteichert6706]

So i just attempted a rebuild on my own 10r80 with 230k miles. Thanks for the video it was very helpful. I got everything done and reinstalled on the tight end of clearances. It had a bad CDF Drum. I took it for a test drive and it was working fine for several miles. Shifting gears like it should nice and smooth, then it threw a maintenance wrench code saying sensors D, and C and friction F were not happy. Could hardly drive it stuck in 4th gear, motor would rev but very little transmission engagement. I pulled the valve body and rebuilt it and found a stuck valve. Reinstalled, reset the shift logic with Forscan, cleared shift tabes and codes again and went for a drive. It drove beautifully for 10 miles up a gentle hill temps up to 180 degrees then back down the hill. Pulling back into the shop to top off fluid at temps the same symptoms happend. This time showing shift solenoid E stuck open. With little to no response in any gear. Any idea what could be going on? Talking to local shops they are thinking it needs a new valve body. One said to get clutch clearance more towards the sloppy side.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

The valve bodies on these are horrible, could be that. Could also be a bad connection at the case connector, since the code is changing. I am assuming you reset the adaptives and did the relearn.

[@danielclawson2099]

Did you get this figured out?

[@sageteichert6706]

I finally bought a transmission from a wrecking yard and stuck it in. That one works fantastic. I should have done that to start with it would have saved me 6 weeks and $1500 in parts and transmission fluid.

[@redbluepill2701]

Yeah the problem is that you rebuilt it yourself, should be quite obvious.

[@Roscotech]

I only replaced the largest sealing rings as the tools are back ordered till March of 2024. I don’t like doing that but felt I had a better chance of them going back together and sealing than with trying to make my own stuff. I pressed the bushing out of the old C,D,F drum and cut it lengthwise and then used three clamps to snug it down. Worked well.

[@morrisontomtom1464]

This is the first one of your videos I’ve seen but I’ll be watching more, haven’t seen very many explain so much detail and actually show working through things like it will be in the shop. I’m a gm transmission tech but I do as many ford 10speeds as I do 6l80s.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thanks for watching. Done quite a few of these now. Have yet to see the GM version of it. Do a crap ton of 6l80's. It's the new 4l60. Probably built more of those than any other.

[@dimitargueorguiev9088]

Very good video with good disassembly. 10r80 is awesome transmission.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thanks

[@Roscotech]

I had similar issues with clearance. Even with the thinnest snap ring in the “e” clutch I was still 0.010 snug. Everything else fell right in the ballpark with the next thinnest ring. I measured my old vrs. new frictions and all were within 0.003/0.004 except the “e” which were more like 0.005/0.006 (0.025 w/5 frictions!). Not super concerned but shall soon see! Ordered all the sealing ring tools but big $$$! I hope to work on plenty of them.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

They are coming in alot. Not done a single 10L80 GM version yet though. I use a piece of pvc pipe split in the middle and hose clamps to tighten it down. Thanks for watching.

[@AlejandroPerez-wd6pu]

He does good job intelligence he figured out anything

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thanks for watching.

[@Indiana_Golden]

Good job on the video. FMC keeps me busy with these and the 8Fs.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thanks, I bet.

[@kurtrindgen4708]

Those dainty, skilled, sausage sized fingers have done quite a bit of rebuilding. I’m watching for the education as my dealer told me this week that my granny with 73k on the clock needs a rebuild. Falling out of low gears, not shifting in low gears and it’ll cost $6500 for the OH. Or $8200 for new. I did some research and it was recommended to delete the adaptive learning tables. I also disabled the learning. Drives like a different truck. Slight issue with shifting through 2, but at least drivable. Will get a second opinion at a good shop.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Sometimes resetting everything will work. The valve body and the sleeve in the CDF drum are the 2 problem areas on this tranmsission.

[@slaznum1]

I watched every minute. Like therapy for some reason. I have the same as above 2018 5.0 with about 70k. When do you recommend or do you recommend fluid and filter change. Manual says 100k I think. Great channel I subbed!

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thanks! Manual says that because that is about what they expect the unit to last, lol. My thoughts are about every 25-30K. You are getting up there where I might say leave it alone. There does come a point where you do more damage than good. Problem is you don't really know when that is. I wouldn't do it unless you have a flawlessly working unit. If there is any issue at all that you are having it "may" make it worse.

[@user-jo4kg8ov3u]

Well done gentleman.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thanks

[@Roscotech]

How did your rebuild turn out? I have definitely repaired the issue the C,D,F drum and the wadded up sealing ring was causing. I replaced that drum, the outer hub (the “trash can”), all the frictions (with care of clearances), and all the seals/molded pistons. I only replaced the one wadded ring because although I have ordered the proper tools they aren’t going to get to me for a few months. I cleaned and reinstalled the valve body and the converter. I used the correct ULV Mercon fluid and a new Motorcraft filter. All in all it performs well but at slower speeds it feels very slightly “jerky” and at times has a fairly harsh reverse gear engagement. I did clear the adaptive memory as well. I’m hoping most of that will settle down after some mileage but I just don’t know. I am a 30 plus year professional tech but have only been building (mostly full time if we have the work) for a little over a year. I won’t do another till the tools arrive and will definitely be doing bushings and a converter at least on the next. This truck has 76k on it.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Have done quite a few of these now. They have a ton of issues. Guess that is why Ford is getting their asses sued over it. I have a video I will post the link to. Keep an eye on the plugs in the input shaft. Seems to be becoming an issue. I know of 2 other people that have run into it. Been replacing the valve body with one from Ford. Don't buy the one from WIT. Even though it is a Ford box I have not had one work correctly yet. Buy your converter from Ford. As it stands at the moment no one can replace the clutch in it. Don't let anyone tell you different. Not only do they not sell the parts for it, the way it is bonded no one can do it yet. I replace the pass thru connector also. If your VB does not come with the harness for it, replace it also. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qqSsfGyYgtiMosU

[@Roscotech]

I did see that bit about the plug in the input shaft and how to verify it. I did have a concern at first bc at least 3 of the modules are difficult to air test through the case. I put some fluid down one case hole to see if that would help and saw a bit of fluid coming out of the end of the input shaft. I reset the adaptives one more time and put almost 70 miles on it. I’m happy with it now and it’s been picked up.

[@Roscotech]

Thanks for your response! I am more grateful for it than you may realize.

[@yomom857]

Thanks for the help, Can you make a video demonstrating the lip seal tool and how you press the new piston in? 9:22

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I get a lot of requests for seeing the press in action. Problem is I do not have a camera person and there is no way to mount a camera where it is. I am going to have to find a way to get the press somewhere where I can mount the camera and do just a video on it. Problem is finding the time to be able to do that. Very busy. The lip seal tool I use constantly in almost every video so you can see it in action almost every time I am putting a piston into a drum. Thanks for watching.

[@arthurrodesiler3109]

Just get a factory rebuilt one of those today. We need 10 speeds like we need a hole in our head.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Ford is having so much trouble with this transmission it is not even funny.

[@sims27360]

Wow. I have a 2018 F150 with a 10R80 in the shop now. Been doing all kinds of strange stuff, from shifting like it had a shift kit to droping in 'neutral' at speed to not wanting to engage into drive. Mechanic said its basically shot and needs either a replacement or someone who can rebuild it. Tranmission shops around here are scared of this transmission. @CurmudgeonTransmission Do you know any reputable transmission shops who can be trusted to properly rebuild one without creating a bigger headache?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

You have a better chance finding one here. atra.com/ShopFinder

[@explorster]

Just use split rings, then you won't need to resize the rings. Plus they are way better

[@gavsu]

i have a 10speed gear for my f150 2019. recently purchased a second hand vehicle. I noticed the gear when shift's to 4th there is a slight lag like someone pressed the brake pedal for a milli second & then the 8th gear seems a little awkward as well. what do you suggest i will consider this with service technician but where we are from in Dubai i doubt they are as experienced to tackle the in depth details you guys have gone through. the seller told me its needs some oiling and I need to use the 4x4 system and it will be fine 😏🤨

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

You are probably at the beginning stages of the sleeve moving out of place in the C,D,F drum. It is not a matter of if it will do it but how many miles you will get before it does it. It WILL do it. It does it on every transmission. You probably can get it fixed by the dealer if you raise enough hell about it. That is how much trouble they are having with them. Being in Dubai kinda puts a wrinkle in things though.

[@johnperkins9602]

Do you air check yours? Have a problem with my air check on this 10r80 and was just wondering if you air check your c f and d

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

They do not air check well. Have talked to the people at ATSG and ATRA and they say it is just the way they are. Don't air check well but will work when it is in the vehicle.

[@TboneSTEAK111]

I have a 18 msutang GT with the 10r80 Since purchased it's always acted weird. If I'm at a slow crawl at a light the trans will seemingly go to N and not move, after about a week of this I had a code for p2705 f clutch engagement time/range. I think that clutch may be cooked since I think the F is always engaged for the forward gears.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

F is not on in 1st thru 3rd gear. The valve bodies on this unit are horrible. I believe your problem is there. The second problem they have is that sleeve in the CDF drum. How it moves will determine the code you will get and what symptoms you have. However, none of those clutches will be causing a problem in 1st. Is your vehicle equipped with the start/stop function?

[@TboneSTEAK111]

@CurmudgeonTransmission it does not have that function, the trans shifts perfectly fine 1-10 once it's moving and is shifting gears, at the track road course its fine. In D at a stop I can feel the trans slightly engage/disengage almost like it's slightly grabbing then letting go and then I hit the gas and the car does not move and will Rev till around 2200rpm. Mashing the gas a few times it will sometimes go back into gear. Do you know what solenoids are on in 1st gear? For some reason I think the dude mentioned a truck valvebody was swapped in a year ago at a shop but he never recalled having issues like that as I knew the guy pretty well.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

A & E

[@TboneSTEAK111]

@CurmudgeonTransmission I'll pull it today, I have a valvebody machine at work (I mainly do dual clutch cars) and see if they're sticking. Thank you!

[@TboneSTEAK111]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Checking back with you Took the trans apart and the F clutch was utterly gone. I had to buy a completely new CDF drum because I couldn't even pry the steels off of it. Not sure if the bushing was the cause of the failure or if these were just over powered as it was a twin turbo car some time ago. Installing these raybestos clutches there was no clearance on the F drum, the clutches would spin freely but wasn't near the 1mm clearance it calls for so I'm machining that clamp plate down for extra clearance even using the smallest snap ring from ford. Also used your videos for a AB60 trans i rebuilt a while ago, custom ground clutch packs and it's holding nearly 1100hp so thank you for these videos.

[@manuelbarrios8941]

Hello, I have a 2020 Ford Expedition that is the same 10r80 transmission and I have 2 problems: The changes from 1 to 4 fail me and it very rarely slides, it has no power at those speeds, and when I press the accelerator there is a loud noise like metal hitting each other, it seems like metal chains hitting each other, the sound also seems like If it were a power failure in the transmission, I honestly don't know where the noise comes from, while it makes that noise, which is for 4 seconds, the D starts to flicker, when I brake and the revs drop it seems like it makes a knock inside but it's not loud and the car gets heavy. Another problem it has is that the temperature if I am in traffic goes up or going slow at 40 mph or 30 mhp goes up to 220 f or more. Friend, could you tell me what you think is wrong with the transmission and what would be your advice? For now what I changed was the filter and the oil and it improved a lot, but the transmission continues to heat up

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I think you have a pump gear problem. Hard to say without being able to hear it. The heat exchanger is a problem on these vehicles. It is located either on the side of the transmission or on the frame rail.

[@manuelbarrios8941]

Me están recomendando que le reset la computadora, que le reprograme. También me recomendaron para la temperatura cambiar el termostato que abre en 160 f. Usted me dice que cambien el intercambiador de calor, por favor usted me podría decir cómo se escribe esa pieza para comprarla en la ford y muchas gracias

[@engineer850]

I have2020 ford f150 .....with 18000 miles....its have wihn sound in gear .....is it serious problem and how to fix it 😊

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

It's hard to say. It may be a torque converter. Noises can be difficult even when you are there to hear them.

[@robbryan1812]

Please tell me why not to use the valve body from WIT !? I just spent $5,400 for the converter, gpz stage 2 clutch kit and the valve body along with a new CDF drum and trash can. They say I can’t return the valve body but I haven’t picked them up yet. Please help!!

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I have had nothing but trouble with them. Even the ones in the Ford box. Every one I have had throws shift solenoid A electrical code. Hopefully yours will be ok. If you have not picked them up yet you are not returning them, you are cancelling the order. Get your valve body and torque converter from Ford.

[@robbryan1812]

Thank you so much!

[@jamieyoung308]

It is hard to get an exact symptom of the cdf clutch drum sleeve failure. My f150 has shifted hard from the day I bought it(59,500 miles). Dealership where it was purchased kept having me drive it back and forth until 60,000 miles and then said sorry it is out of warranty now. Mine seems like at slow speeds in a parking lot it is awful. If it shits from 1st to 2nd gear, it is game over. It will hang up and I will fight it from there until it gets parked for a little bit. If I can get to 5th gear it is golden. But 1-4 is awful. I have worked on the programming side. It seems like when cold, it works best. After it heats up, it is all over the place and throws code after code. Most to deal with gear ratio, etc. It has been absolutely the worst driving truck I have ever driven, all transmission related. I have always been a ford truck fan, I have owned a lot of Fords and managed fleets of trucks. After buying my current f150, I now am switching our fleet trucks away from Fords. If they can’t step up and fix the 10r80 issue. We are not going to fight it on a Nation wide level. They probably don’t care that we have North of 200,000 fleet trucks.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

They have had a ton of problems for sure. Sounds like you have a valve body problem. They should. Chevy's got problems also. In fact they all do. Tons of valve body problems.

[@jamieyoung308]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I appreciate your time. I have been debating on valve body or cdf sleeve. I noticed marks on the transmission pan bolts. So someone has been in it. Dealership had no records of them doing anything, but all oil changes and maintenance work was performed by them according to previous owner records. They may have worked on the valve body or replaced it. Granted I can probably look at the tags and then compare it with shift strategy on forscan and see if they match. If not then something has been changed.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@jamieyoung308 Good place to start. It may not be matched and programmed correctly.

[@jamieyoung308]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I did check and strategy is original and matches the tag. Would you know anything about code P0761 solenoid C stuck off. I can’t find any information on it.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

There is not much on it. It is the solenoid on the row that has seven, 3rd from the left. Solenoid is on in every gear except 1st and 6th.

[@Supersexymodz]

Been doing a lot of these 10r80s lately. That front seal at 18:44. I’d get a ford one. The ford one slips right in. The aftermarket suck to get in and rip.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I agree.

[@jairotrevino3440]

i have a trans and it’s sitting in my garage and it has a very minor leak from this seal, would i need a huge tear down to get the seal changed out?

[@RA-zk4gg]

Name of the kit used in this rebuild please!!

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Transtec.

[@edwinroper5458]

i do have one question i have and2018 f150 v8 and 10r80 239000 miles on it it shifts perfect but just gets hot everything seems to be normal an the analisis coolant is flowing fine through the trans cooler. it will get as high as 249 deg f its about to drive me nuts. even at that temp it shifts perfect sny ideas would be nice thanks

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

First off make sure it is not overfull of fluid. That can put air into the fluid and make it run hotter. It is not going to last long running that hot. Your problem is "probably" in the bypass valve in the cooler. I would start with replacing that with a factory one. I wouldn't trust the after market ones.

[@edwinroper5458]

@CurmudgeonTransmission everything is still factory stock on it and translated is were if should be but will change the bypass valve

[@slaznum1]

That a lot of miles, when did you service or have you?

[@N000aaahhhhh]

Do you work at the sharonville, Ohio Ford transmission plant?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

No I do not.

[@N000aaahhhhh]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission oh, your uniform looks like something that we wear. We built this transmission in sharonville.

[@gunshipproduct2]

After having worked with the 10r80, do you like them or is there some issues with them? Was it a difficult teardown?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

They are just so damn heavy. Much easier to tear down than to put back in the case. I think they would probably be a good unit if they can fix the C,D,F drum problem.

[@stevenbates8744]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission are they pretty common to fail? currently having mine rebuilt under warranty and they said the CDF drum was the main issue.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@stevenbates8744 I have only had 3 so far, but yes the CDF drum is the problem.

[@stevenbates8744]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission im surprised ford hasn’t put out a fix for this. you’d figure if it’s common they’d manufacture a revised part so this can be prevented. 10 speed was great up until this.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@stevenbates8744 They all always drag their feet on problems.

[@kineticenergy1085]

So if mine was just at dealer getting new fluid, filter, overhauled valve body and 2 “pressure plates” what is your guess on why at first drive after sitting for hours, it SLAMS into 3rd or hangs up in 1st and SLAMS into second…… only until warm…. Then it’s butter shifting again 🤦🏽‍♂️ makes no sense

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Could be bad programming. Could still be a problem with the valve body. Just because it is new does not mean it is good. Could be the keep alive memory is not right. May be losing it after shutting it off, then it relearns each time you restart it. Been talking with a friend of mine since I started in this business. He says he has been running into not only bad valve bodies but computers as well from the dealers. All makes and models. Not all doing the same thing either. Some will work fairly well, seem to be relaerning and then go back to working like crap again. What was the reason the valve body was replaced?

[@kineticenergy1085]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I brought it on for a front whee bearing and just mentioned the harsh upshift from 1-3 and 4-5 and they decided to do all that

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@kineticenergy1085 So, nothing has changed with all that being replaced? Leads me to a programming issue.

[@kineticenergy1085]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks, and yes, why would it shift like butter after “warming up” or, “getting the juices flowing”? Doesn’t make sense. It did start acting up on its own after a few years of no issues too💁🏽‍♂️

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Several reasons why it could. Transmissions nowadays are always in a constant state of learning or adapting. The rates of applying the clutches are always in a state of change to account for wear, or even different drivers. Might be it is losing it's memory after sitting (KAM, keep alive memory). The viscosity of the fluid does change a little from cold to hot, that can affect shifts. Sometimes there is just no cure for it. My son has a newer Hyundai hybrid. All of a sudden it started a pretty firm shift from 1st to 2nd only on the first shift after starting. Has been to the dealer several times. They state there is nothing wrong with it. Works fine other than that.

[@2A5X4A]

Hi, did ford ever fixed the CDF issue? And is it common on 2021 f150s or older? Mine is sitting at 50k now shifts okay beside 3-4th, always a little jerk unless I give it more gas then it will be smooth.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

No they have not. That could be either a valve body or programming issue.

[@2A5X4A]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission sounds like I can expect CDF failure at anytime now, ford did a learning table reset for me like 7k miles ago, help a little, but one time I was coming off a highway after 3hrs trip and from 6-9th gear as soon as I release the gas in one of those gear the truck would clunk, only happen once during my ownership, I have a 6hr trip coming up will see if it happens again.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

There is now an updated drum JL3Z-7H351-B

[@2A5X4A]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission do you know what year of f150 they start using the new drum? Thank you!

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@2A5X4A Not sure. Came out in the seminar book this year, so it probably came out last year. Well I take that back. Looking at the part number it has a 3 in it so it should mean 2023. So I guess earlier this year.

[@noeltrujillo6154]

Where could I put a transmission fluid temperature sensor on the 10R80?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Line pressure port. Drivers side, in front of the linkage.