#127

Trying to install the distributor, it seems we have the wrong one for this engine. It looks like it has been changed at some point for a distributor off of a car engine, also manufactured by the Standard Motor company, but sufficiently different to cause a problem. So we will have to source the correct one (D3A4) and attempt this job again!
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[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day Gordon, Not a problem I have come across and the distributor on the current TEA build was from a car of some sort and it even had vacuum advance and it fitted nicely. I would have left it there as part of the tractors life story but I couldn't find points for it. The main problem with yours seems to be a longer shaft so even an old parts distributor might get you out of trouble. Anyone that tries to film their work will know things dont go to plan, boy Im about 1 year behind I reckon, lol. There is a gasket under the distributor mount housing part no : 825662M1

[@WaterhouseForde]

Hi Lance, ye as you could probably tell I was very confused by this. I think I have now found a “spacer” in amongst the bits and pieces that came with the tractor. That potentially solves both problems! 👍😉

[@lesliehaire7229]

Hi Gordon I had a look at when you rebuilt the distributor when you said about the gap at the drivedog you are right there should not be a gap and I think the reason why you have one now is the plate above the bearing has separated from the shaft , it happened me when i was removing my bearing as I tapped on the top of the shaft like you did in your overhaul video, The plate is only pressed onto the shaft and will separate if you hit it , to push the bearing in you hit the sides of it through the 2 holes in the baseplate till its seated . The plate just taps on again as it's on a course spline ,hope that helps Leslie. Ps If you look on the rear of the baseplate if it needs removing again there is a number and that will tell you the degrees of advance the distributor is setup for ,mine is 26 for a 6v TVO

[@WaterhouseForde]

Hi Leslie, thank you that is very helpful. I will definitely take a look inside the distributor again, because like you I don’t believe that gap should be there. That would explain why this is struggling to marry up. 👍😉

[@charlescase1026]

Hello Gordon. That was a good video because it clearly shows that "Murphy" can upset the best plans of mice and men. The distributor on my TE20 may not be the original and finding a replacement is difficult because they are obsolete. I may have a connection for a barn find, but we are waiting for better weather to go through the pile of many boxes. I've been away for a few days and have not watched any episodes, falling further behind. TTFN/CDC

[@WaterhouseForde]

Hi Charles, I deliberated a lot over whether to publish this video, but in the end, I felt that this is all part of the journey. Things simply don’t always work out and on a project like this many problems are encountered that need solving. I hope this (and the upcoming follow up) will help someone else one day. 👍😉

[@Rigracer.]

Hi. I have a Mountfield 1538M-SD Ride on Mower. I have seen your video for engine servicing but do you have a video on how to remove the cutting deck, namely for belt replacement and/or general cleaning and maintenance etc. Many thanks.

[@WaterhouseForde]

Hi Rigracer, I’m afraid I don’t have a video on removing the deck. I have tried to get a good angle on it but it’s just about impossible to get the camera into a good enough spot to be suitable. That said it is really quite easy. I’m working from memory here, so this may not be entirely accurate! 😉. The first step is to remove the side covers. It’s quite obvious where the fixing points are when you look at it. They are all size 10 socket bolt screws. There is one that attaches the guard to the foot plate so be sure to find that one too. Next loosen the belt tensioner all the way off. You can then ease the belt off. I find easiest to slip it over the blade pulley on the left hand side (sitting on the seat). Next you will find 4 mounting points where deck attaches to the frame that rises and falls. These are simple half-spring clips that you should be able to slide off. Catch the washers and remove the pins. Of course at this point the deck should be on the lowest setting so it as close to the ground as possible. Once it is fully on the ground, raise the height adjustment lever to create a bit of clearance and carefully slide the deck out either to the left or right. Do check and continue to check that it’s not catching on anything as you sliding it out, I find you do need to move things around a bit to clear all the bits and pieces of the height adjustment frame etc. Reinstall is pretty much the reverse of the above. Hope this helps! 👍😉

[@Rigracer.]

@@WaterhouseForde Hi. Many thanks. I have only had the mower a year, still under warranty, so took it into the dealership (washed off and spotless) to have it serviced in order to ensure the warranty. Got the shock of my life at the bill. It was £80 more than the service AND MOT on my car. Don't know how they can possibly justify but warranty or not it won't be happening again. I can buy a lot of bits for what they are charging. Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.

[@georgecheyne3177]

Gordon, the flat on the oil pump end of the shaft has not engaged with the oil pump.

[@WaterhouseForde]

Hi George, I did think about that, but from what I can see it is properly engaged. I need to get back to this and diagnose exactly what is going on with the distributor, but I do know that it is not the correct one anyway. So most likely I will trade this one in for the correct one. Hope your project is going well! 😉👍

[@WaterhouseForde]

Hi George, I did think about that, but from what I can see it is properly engaged. I need to get back to this and diagnose exactly what is going on with the distributor, but I do know that it is not the correct one anyway. So most likely I will trade this one in for the correct one. Hope your project is going well! 😉👍

[@WaterhouseForde]

Hi George, I did think about that, but from what I can see it is properly engaged. I need to get back to this and diagnose exactly what is going on with the distributor, but I do know that it is not the correct one anyway. So most likely I will trade this one in for the correct one. Hope your project is going well! 😉👍

[@georgecheyne3177]

Going good Gordon, had turning over the other day to get the oil circulated, couple of snagging jobs to do but hopefully get her up and running soon.

[@vincefrommenton]

Dont push on distributor you have to move the screwdriver and moving the flying wheel

[@WaterhouseForde]

Thanks Vince. We have now replaced the distributor. It was definitely not the correct one. 😉👍

[@JACKATTACKED]

TED Early D3A4 V151 40186A Max advance 23-27° at 1200 TED Late D3A4 V151 40298A Max advance 9-11° at 1100

[@JACKATTACKED]

Engine serial should let you know if flywheel holes are pinned at 0° or 10° BTDC. One graduation on the plate= 2 distributor and 4 crankshaft.

[@JACKATTACKED]

Parts show a distributor adapter gasket.

[@WaterhouseForde]

Hi Jackattack, thank you for this info, very helpful. Do you know at which engine number it changed from “Early” to “Late”? I recall the engine is dated 1952 if I’m not mistaken. I need to go through the parts box to see if there is a spacer. The distributor was already removed when it came to us. 👍😉

[@JACKATTACKED]

Engine no S120,510E----S170,173E Version 1,2 Engine no S170,174E onwards version 3&4. Versions 1,2 and early editon 3 are static 6° crank. Pretty sure 4 is 6°also. Version 1 Engine no S120,510E- S121,954E VERSION 2 Engine no S121955E-S170,173E VERSION 3 Engine no S170,274E-S225,311E Version 4 Engine no S225,312E->

[@JACKATTACKED]

As for year 🤷‍♂️ I have saw one post reference their 52 Ted to late distributor. Lance might know or you could ask on a fergie page. The only differences between early/late dizzy wise i can see is max advance pulled back to 11°. Versions 1-4 relate to valve head diameters.

[@lesliehaire7229]

Distributor dog looks right and car dissys fit no issue usually, I suspect the reason it won't go in the last bit which appears to be the thickness of the drivedog blade Gordon is because you are 180 degrees out, try turning the rotor arm round 180 degrees and it will fit as the drive dog is offset and if it goes in then you are not top dead centre on cylinder 1 but TDC on cylinder 4.. If that is the case you need to remove plug 1 and turn engine by the handle and feel for compression with your finger then locate the screwdriver again . If you are on TDC NO 1 already your drivegear needs turning through 180 degrees instead.

[@WaterhouseForde]

Hi Leslie thank you for this, very helpful. I will get back to this in the coming weeks and double check all of this again. Visually I thought the slot was lined up, but will check again. I think the issue is that I am missing a space/gasket which would take up that difference. Keep watchin'! 😉👍🏻

[@lesliehaire7229]

@@WaterhouseForde no worries Gordon