142 - Understanding and Using Dyes

[@F0XD1E]

I love finding these time capsule KZbin videos that were all substance, no clickbait or sponsors, and all had the same royalty free music.

[@BarkingBeavers]

I always value Marc's videos and insight. One of the best woodworking (and finishing) voices on KZbin. I'm currently listening to the entire catalog of WoodTalk and its a wealth of information. Thank you, Wood Whisperer! 😊

[@fa18mhr]

The depth of information for this video was spot on. Enough to make informed decisions but nothing down in the weeds to make it onerous to digest.

[@labtrainer09]

Marc, this tutorial may be "ancient" but it's EXCELLENT, in every respect. I've been advised to use dye (instead of stain) on a new maple cabinet I need to finish, and I was looking for an detailed, thorough, common-sense introduction to these colorants. Your video is that AND MORE. Thanks so much; I now think I'm ready to tackle the job.

[@aok2727]

Same for me. The application part was intimidating and now, I feel prepared

[@jamesnasmith984]

Bang on between industry and newby. Good use of accurate, simple narration.

[@GrantHendrick]

Very helpful tutorial. Thank you.

[@bakstabbath]

This helped me a lot. I've been researching different dyes to use on a Les Paul guitar kit and went with the General Finishes pre-mixed dye stain. It was a little cheaper than TransTint and I don't have to worry about dye/water ratio. Thank you!

[@watcherdude1330]

I’m glad I had the opportunity to watch and LEARN a TON of things about dyes and how to use them properly. Being new to wood working I TRULY APPRECIATE the time spent making this video. Your very easy to listen to and you explain things the way I like to learn . So thanks so very much.

[@timh7156]

Excellent tutorial. Most informative one I’ve seen on wood dyes. Thank you for that.

[@aok2727]

Oh my, this is precisely what I needed to explain this application. Thank you

[@danalaniz7314]

Really good explanation. I'm a beginner DIY woodworker and for the last few days, I've been working on learning about stains, dyes, etc. Your explanation and demonstration really helped. Thank you for posting and sharing your knowledge/expertise.

[@par5endos562]

Glad to see another video. You are a brave soul doing a dye video with a white shirt!

[@DebbieFBI]

You really break down the information so we can understand, thank you!!

[@danielludmerer4936]

empower= give us the knowledge to make our own decisions. Thank You!

[@lexconor8498]

What a fantastic, very helpful intro to dyes! Thank you!

[@kmneville1]

Thank so so much! This video was excellent for a first time user of dyes!

[@Mopardude]

Your vids on finishing are some of the best vids in my opinion.

[@tsalter79]

I've been thinking about joining the Guild for sometime now. I watch every episode of the Wood Whisperer and this episode has now made me take that step. Another great show...keep it up Mark.

[@komotion]

Great overview, chock full of practical info and, more importantly, explaining the “why” behind it, how things work. Thank you!

[@waelkambris6188]

Finally…a clear explanation to wood dyes. Thank you

[@woodwhisperer]

@MrLeonard55 Well, you can always watch it multiple times. Its always here for your viewing pleasure.

[@harveygoodman8078]

Very good and informative video! Thanks for sharing!!!

[@jasong1899]

I'm really impressed with the level of detail in this video. Was curious to learn more about dyes versus stains and came away with so much more. Consider me subscribed.

[@mmgross144]

Mark you are a natural at this! Great job once again!

[@briandcare1]

You are a true professional at this craft. If you got hired on to a crew of professional painters you would be an all star. It's a dying art.

[@balance_one]

Wow thank you for making this video, it has helped explain some things to this total noob at woodworking. I'm finishing a desk project for myself and have just ordered the dye yesterday. I've used stains before on projects, but nothing of this scale. You've convinced me to apply it with a spray bottle, and the tip to find a decent one with a fine mist spray is great.

[@woodwhisperer]

Yeah pretty much. Different types of coloring agents layered on top of one another can certainly bring more depth to the color. But sometimes using a dye as a base coat will shift the color one way or the other. So it can be quite useful. And if you use a water-based dye and you want to use an oil on the surface. I'd recommend skipping the shellac. Shellac will seal the surface preventing your oil from absorbing and curing properly.

[@kkluber1]

Excellent!!! Thanks so much for just the right amount of information. Also love the William NG T shirt....

[@blackbirdpie217]

Good video. I could have used this info a few weeks ago when I was using the General finishes stain on a mahogany banjo neck followed by filling the grain for a glass smooth lacquer finish. The grain filler is Crystallac stainable. I had used the older non stainable product, but the Crystalac was pulling the stain out of the wood. None of the products mentioned whether I could seal the wood or not, before using the grain filler. I even called General to ask what was the story with the dye coming up- it was unexpected. You explained it perfectly. They took several days to get back to me with an answer! I ended up using Behlen vinyl sealer on top of the stained bare wood before using the grain filler. It's against my logic but considering the problem I used it with great success. Once the vinyl sealer was on the filler did not solve the stain. I sealed it over the filler to apply the nitrocellulose lacquer. The new problem I have is the stainable crystalac grain filler as it is not drying clear. The old product did, and I Emailed Crystalac directly with no response. I want a good clear grain filler! The difficulties never end.

[@sms9106]

Almost 10 years old but still very relevant and very informative.

[@woodwhisperer]

@fenderpaman16 Yup. They might apply the dye by spraying, but I have done it by hand in the past and its a fun process.

[@Oak0586]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video.

[@woodwhisperer]

Green dye and a lacquer finish. Transtint is a concentrated dye that comes in green and you can make your own dye solution and apply it to the wood. From there, you can spray one several coats of lacquer. Now this will indeed create a shiny film. But with dye on the surface, a film is a good thing. Non-film finishes won't really protect the color and you will most likely wear through the dye.

[@muchimi]

thanks this is excellent. I just put applied a layer of yellow from general. I'd seen another video where a layer of shellac was used between the yellow and then the walnut, for the walnut counter I made and then a top coat to seal it all before polishing. I also have to decide what to do about the worm holes and one knot. Fill with epoxy? or ??? or leave them. Wish I could send you pics of what I've done so far. thanks for all the info your posting

[@woodwhisperer]

You might look into some of the Transtint and General Finishes Water Based Dyes. Both should have a few bright primary colors for you to check out. As for gloves, I'd recommend using them. Most dye solutions also have chemicals in the mix. Not something you really want on your hands.

[@woodwhisperer]

@bernsteine yes and yes. I would definitely pre-raise and sand with 320 and a water bottle can definitely help distribute the dye over a large area quickly. Just spray and wipe the excess.

[@g8r22]

Although the pre-mixed shellac may be cheaper I used to end up throwing away as much as I used because after opening it got old in less than a year. I'm sure I save a lot of money mixing what I need from flakes.

[@michaelkraft6018]

I was gifted a table from a dear friend who was a woodworking craftsman before he encountered some health issues. It is a rather old piece. He does not remember precisely what he used to finish the top. The majority of the top is a large inlaid square of wood that he believes was dyed. It is black, and it will spot in a second if it encounters anything wet. A damp cloth will pull color. So as best we can tell, it is a water-based dye. I would like to apply a finish to make it more impervious to water and to avoid having it bleed dye on anything that is placed on it. Based on your video, I would use the Sealcoat dewaxed shellac product. I can either spray or wipe on the first coat. Would you suggest that this be the only finish used, or would you use a different final coat or coats after the shellac, and if so, what would you use? Thank you.

[@markolson6987]

Wow - thank you. This video is exactly what I needed to answer my questions and get me going!

[@BlueLineofthesky]

I really love your videos. I learn so much.

[@charlesandrewmoore8699]

fantastic and deeply infomative. subscribed!

[@woodwhisperer]

Well I'm not really an expert, but i can give an opinion. You can use aerosol cans for this effect and it is really just a matter of blending one color into the other. I have never tried with with spray though. When I have played with this type of coloring I used water-based dyes applied by hand. Fine Woodworking had a great video on their site about it. Google and see if you can't located it. It think "sunburst" was in the title.

[@geolisadrag-racing2349]

Great video I impressed some fairly accomplished woodworkers with the wet down, raise grain, sand down grain technique you demonstrated. THANKS

[@woodwhisperer]

@griiiiiiiiiin I honestly don't know the chemistry behind that paint. But like any other finish or paint, I'd recommend cleaning the brush with hot soapy water after use. I wouldn't recommend using mineral spirits on the brush at all as that could leave residue behind.

[@stich1960]

This is very useful. It's no wonder that these dyes haven't taken off versus staying the amount of information that's out there on getting the colors you want is almost non-existent. I just ordered the keda powder kit, assuming that there would be instructions and found out there is no instructions even on their website. Honestly a little annoyed. It looks like those pre-made wood tone colors are the way to go rather than mixing from scratch RGB with no supporting data

[@coppulor6500]

I would love to see staining videos using woods that are a pain in the rear like pine and cedar. Seems a lot easier to demonstrate on woods with a tighter grain unless variability and density. Thanks for a great video 👍

[@kraftymomma1979]

Lots of great information explained in a way I can understand - thank you! ❤️

[@woodwhisperer]

Honestly, I don't work much with softwood, but you can certainly get decent results. Always test on scraps and then strategize what you might need to do to solve any potential issues that creep up such as blotching.

[@kenstewart687]

Great video Mark. Thank you. I always save your videos for future reference.

[@stevenjepsen5153]

Very useful video, thank you.

[@woodwhisperer]

@aDotFromTheFuture To me, a stain is a generic term for anything we use to color wood. And that can be a dye, a pigment, or a combination of the two.

[@woodwhisperer]

Mostly. But keep in mind if you are rubbing aggressively, it could still pull up some color. So I like to apply a light coat of diluted varnish with a gentle touch. Once that first coat dries, you can begin to be a bit more aggressive with the surface.

[@woodwhisperer]

@NoblestoftheLIONs that sounds reasonable to me. You can actually save a step if you use something like General Finishes dye. They have some binder in the mix so you can go right from the dye to the gel stain and skip the shellac. As for time periods, you can coat over the dye as soon as its dry to the touch. I'd let the stain sit overnight before top-coating.

[@TK-setophaga]

The dyes are nice but challenging to apply. The minwax is easy and very forgiving. Minwax early american is still beautiful. So I went down the dye path. But to get that to work, I needed the extender and the reducer for GF dye stain. At $25 each my effort cost $75. I wouldn't bash minwax, it looks nice and it is easy to work with.

[@Andluth]

I like to raise the grain with denatured alcohol. It costs more but swells the grain and dries really fast. Thanks for the videos!

[@BEasay]

Great video, thank you!

[@Moffit366]

Oh jeese this is an oldie but a goodie.

[@woodwhisperer]

@Mopardude awesome man! Thanks. Glad you like them!

[@rbeachy206]

Excellent instructive video. I'm looking for someone that has a formula to match the Zinsser Amber Shellace on maple using General Finishes dye stain. The Amber turns out a bit too rich and reducing with only water makes it too yellow.

[@woodwhisperer]

If you have a blotch-prone wood, you might have to consider pre-sealing. Otherwise, applying the dye directly to the wood will likely give the best results.

[@JPE_DRAEB]

I really wanted to see a video on different ways to apply transtint!!!

[@5.5_F]

Just wow ❤ thank you so much 🙏🏼

[@bryancampbell9312]

Great Video...Can you spray lacquer sealer over the General Finishes Dye - then top coat with lacquer?

[@jsburklow]

I just wanted to say thanks very much for the video (ok all the videos!!) I went ahead and bought the earlex HVLP sprayer after watching your review now i know how the cave man felt when he discovered the wheel!!! Thanks again Marc for all your insight it has made me a better woodworker i hope to be joining the guild soon.

[@Rev22-21]

So realizing this video is 8+years old now I'd like to ask a question. I'm refinishing an piece of antique furniture and after removing it's old dead and faded finish I attempted to restain it after applying a cut shellac to even things out. But there are several different species of wood used, and though beautiful...I have several different colors of finish now + a few new veener pieces also) . But rather than completely stripping it again (other than a light sanding to tac), I'm considering a simple seal coat of either lacquer or shellac and starting over . Will using the dye method directly on my new seal coat and then applying my finish coats on that be the way to go? Thanks. Enjoy your work .

[@carolriley569]

Thanks for all the helpful info!

[@DrGarri]

This guy is awesome! Just the facts Ma'am!

[@schuylerashton813]

Baby Marc is adorable

[@jimshaver898]

Great video, thank you. A question, can I apply an oil based clear coat directly to a Transtint or Transfast finish? Thanks

[@johnmorgan4960]

Can I get a cheat sheet!? Lots of good info, thank you!

[@woodwhisperer]

@trumpet190 Seriously? That's awesome! Good luck!

[@woodwhisperer]

Well, problems can arise from a lot of different things, especially when staining pine. So it's hard to say. But that finish combination, in theory, should work. You might look into using a wood conditioner before the stain though since blotching will be an issue. Look into Charles Neil's blotch control.

[@leecook7672]

Can this be added to a bowl and and blanks added to it and then put into a pressure pot to force the color deeper into the wood?

[@mumkitty]

This tutorial SAVED ME. Well, it saved my Douglas fir posts and gluelam beams from being ORANGE. I used the General Finishes stain in white as a base to take the orange out and layered Antique Oak on top. The result is a light cool brown that matches all the cabinetry in the room which is Ash. I only tested it so far on some scraps. Any advice on how long to wait between the two step process? Thanks so much!

[@andrewcoad904]

Great video. What final finish would you recommend for dyed wood to give a satin finish? Wax? Tung Oil?

[@joshuecker4996]

Great video, thank you for the info. Im starting to use TransTint for the time...

[@pjbk3838]

I did not hear what wood you were using?? I am sure you said but I could not find it. Repeating a couple times wouldn't do any harm. Thank you very thoroughly done.

[@craigroy5317]

Great vid. A lot of useful info thanks. Question.. I want to finish a mahogany guitar with open grain but color the grain a slight darker color. Then complete by a wipe on poly satin finish. What would be the process to apply the dye into the grain but not the wood top surface?

[@290andreas]

Great video, thanks. One question please, can I use Non dewaxed shellac?

[@maryag213]

I realize this video is incredibly old, but if you’re reading comments, I’d love to know what you’d recommend for ebonizing red oak and ensuring a prominent grain?

[@MrEyesof9]

You definitely covered the "what" quiet well, and to be fair, I may have just missed the "where and when" parts of the story. but If it is missing then.. when would you choose dye over stain, or, if, when or where would you use both?

[@devonstjohn]

If you wanted to use dye on a wood entry door could you recommend a top coat that will hold up to the elements?

[@jbrondos]

Can the cotton rags used for wiping be safely and effectively put in the washing machine (obviously without any other fine clothes)?

[@wagbjorn]

How deep will dye soak into the wood? What is the maximum depth you can achieve? And will wood glue bind on dyed wood when I glue strips of dyed wood together?

[@splash5974]

Do you have a vid on using the dye in a topcoat, and applying as a toner?

[@roggie77777]

I dont know but might help kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpXTgXWJidx-itU

[@GrowLLLTigeRRR]

Do dyes work well with white pine? I'm having a lot of trouble with stains? They just don't seem to darken the wood very much. I am using a pre-stain/conditioner.

[@supermetaltastic]

I appreciate the detail. Im refinishing fully stripped maple columns that support a porches roof. I tried a white arborcoat semi-solid alkyd linseed oil stain on a test piece sanded in sections with different grits. One section 80 another 220. It failed to penetrate the wood even after sitting for 50 minutes. It just wiped right off with almost no effect. Can dyes be used in an exterior application? I wanted to initially use stain so there would be no peeling paint to scrap and to easy refinishing every 4 years. Would dye meet my needs? Does the shellac sealing coat peel and require sanding before refinishing?

[@NoblestoftheLIONs]

I'm trying to reach the espresso kitchen cabinet color on oak cabinets. I've taken everything down to bare wood and pre-raised the grain with a final sand using 220 grit. The plan is to use Wiz van-dyke brown dye and General Finishes java gel stain. The order of operation I am assuming is dye, shellac, gel stain, and polyurethane top coats. Would I be correct in that assumption? Also, what time periods of waiting between each application would you suggest. Great videos, great information!

[@thiswoodwork]

Is that the old assembly table you are working on Mark?

[@woodwhisperer]

I imagine any number of dye formulations would work for this but I'd probably just go with straight denatured alcohol. As for finish coat, lacquer is a good traditional finish for a musical instrument and should look awesome.

[@wisamhamoui]

Thanks for a very informative video! Are Transtint and General Finishes Dye Stain safe for children toys (or for use in the kitchen)?

[@anthonysclafani3963]

+The Wood Whisperer does Keda dye (aniline dye I think) fade over time? What causes dyes to fade? Will dyes still fade if you seal it with tru oil?

[@joecasey6471]

I have a chair with no finish left on it. I believe it was stored in a very wet / humid place. It now has turned gray, I would like to restore it back to oak / ? Depending on what I find when i reglue it. What will I need to do remove the gray color ?

[@mreisslax]

Thanks for making dyes less intimidating. How would you apply a dye if you just want to touch up an old piece? I am reupholstering a 1930's wood arm chair with Aniline dye on the exposed wood arms and legs. For 90 years old, the dye is in great shape! But just needs a touch up on the well worn areas and scratches. It is stripped of upholstery and old padding, so now is the time. Any tips for how to apply so it doesn't look like a splotchy touch up job?

[@robertjohn527]

Thanks for your quick reply. What about the application, do you prefer spraying this mixture or some form of brush or pad? Do you prefer the Transfast or Transtint? Both require precise measuring to reproduce, correct?

[@sheshedchronicles1021]

I've ordered some of the Homestead powdered dye in gray for a quarter-sawn oak coffee table I'm going to be building/finishing. I want the final color to be a very, very light gray. Obviously, I will keep that in mind when mixing my dye mixture, but should the color be a bit too dark, would sanding after application of the dye lighten the color at all since the dye mixture is absorbed into the wood? I will keep your tip (@ 13:35 in the video) in mind regarding wetting the wood just before applying the mixture so that it doesn't necessarily pull in as much of the dye mixture.

[@woodwhisperer]

+SheShedChronicles Sanding would remove some of the dye, but it might not do it in a predictable way. You might get a blotchy or patch appearance. It would be better to simply reactivate the dye with whatever it was meant to be mixed with (either water or alcohol). So if it's water, use a wet rag to reactivate the dye and pull some of it back up off the surface. Same thing if it was alcohol. This will give you much more control over how much dye is actually left on the surface.

[@VinnyjojoFish]

Great video. Thanks

[@darkktur88]

i love dying flame birch ! Can you dilute dye disolved in alcohol with distilled water ?

[@ThriftDiving]

I learned a LOT from this video about dyes. Question: I've just built a DIY bathroom vanity from red oak and now I've come to the part where I'm dreading: ruining it because I couldn't get the finishing right. I'd like to keep it as natural as possible, but use a liming wax to whiten and "highlight" the grain for a weathered oak look. Is there a dye that's really light? Or a way to create a nice even color similar to dye without having to go "full-blown" dyed color? Thanks for your help! Anxious woodworker over here. LOL. New subscriber, too!

[@Jerae6]

Do you need another finish if you use the bulls eye ?