1685 DIY Easy Build Waste Oil Burner

[@techtinkerin]

I did a drip oil burner in a woodburning stove with a model aeroplane carburettor as a tap and a metal tube from an old antenna. It had a tin can from westlers burgers with a 2p coin in the center. A small piece of cotton string to get it going. Worked well when you adjust the drip rate. Smelt like a 1980s car! 😄👍😎❤️

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

lol - nice on mate - cheers

[@user-dm1tv6nl2e]

When you say you used the carburetor as a tap, do you mean to meter the oil rate? Trying to imagine the setup

[@theaussienurseflipper.8113]

Gr8 idea mate.

[@treychastain4686]

I'd enjoy seeing a video covering that.

[@kreynolds1123]

The dead simplicity of a drip oil and rock wool burner with rocket stove's convective flow inspires some ideas for an aluminum melting furnace.

[@kreynolds1123]

Note on mass heater: After one is done heating the mass of the cinder blocks with the energy released burning fuel, it would be good to close up the opening to reduce convective air currents from carrying heat away on the inside. Maybe one might want to mostly close up the top too, but not completely as one may still want to slowly vent any remaining fumes outside.

[@mikaelfransson3658]

When you see something good and the synapsis startw a round chamber! when thr heat is in cicle in the bottom of the stove and slovly get up i the chimney! its an idea you must already have and might soon coming to show us! Keep up the great work you are just awesome Rob.!🥸

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

it something I am thinking about mate lol and cheers

[@abaker7615]

My grandfather had a barrel stove in his shop (a 55 gallon drum mounted horizontally with a cast iron door and black pipe chimney) He burned wood and trash in it, he also had a furnace chain hanging down from the top of the barrel and was about half way to the bottom a hole was drill next to the chain and a stainless steel brake line was run through the hole stopping at the chain. There was a petcock in the line and it was attached to a 5 gallon can (old style with spout and center fill hole), It was suspended a few feet away and above the stove. He would put used motor oil in the can and tip the can so that the oil ran to the spout and into the brake line. With a fire started in the barrel he would adjust the petcock until oil was just dripping on the chain. The oil ran down the chain and before it got to the bottom it would heat, vaporize and combust. If the oil had a lot of grease in it he add a little kerosene or diesel (even stale gasoline) Kept the shop toasty in the winter in Northern Iowa.

[@georgecraft007]

My used oil heater is made from an old natural gas hot water tank. The tank normally has a 4" flue tube running up the centre of it. I start the project by cutting a 1ft X 1ft access door into the hot water tank, approximately 1ft from the bottom. I won't go into the details of the door but it's purpose is for accessing the hearth to start the fire and to clean out the hearth from time to time. I remove a portion of the internal 4" flue tube at approximately the same height as the bottom door opening. I sit a 6" stainless steel bowl over the bottom portion of the 4" flue tube to act as my hearth. I install a stainless steel wire mesh around the upper portion of the 4" flue air inlet tube to act as an inlet 'air diffuser'. When the oil heater is operating, blue flames will appear to jet outwards from the air diffuser. I cut a 6" hole in the upper portion of the water tank to act as my chimney outlet. I weld a 6" piece of pipe to the water tank (to attach to my chimney system). I use steel brake line as my oil drip feed tube to fill the stainless steel bowl hearth. The steel brake line runs down the inside of the 4" flue tube into the hearth. The opposite end of the steel brake line runs to small control valve attached to a container full of used motor oil. I've welded metal legs on the water tank to space it off the floor. I've installed sheet metal panels behind the heater with a 1" spacing from the building wall. These steel panels have a 1" spacing off the floor as well. When the steel panels heat up from the stove, it creates a convection loop, so that the cool air from the floor moves upwards behind the panel as the heated air exits the top of the panel. This also allows me to put the used oil heater closer to the building wall while protecting it from an external fire. I have no damper on the 6" outlet but I've installed a sliding plate over the 4" inlet to control the air intake flow. To start the used oil stove, I open the door and put a piece of paper towel in the oil that is in the hearth. I ignite the paper towel and the oil begins to burn. I immediately close and lock the access door. Air gets drawn down the 4" inlet tube and jets outward from the stainless steel mesh. Blue flames occur and the oil gets very hot, very fast. The flames can be control by the sliding plate at the top of the 4" inlet tube. The oil will heat up the water tank in a matter of minutes, as the exhaust makes its way out the 6" chimney outlet. It's hard to explain all of the details without pictures, but that is a basic description of how I made my used oil heater. It requires no external power and will operate as long as it gets a constant drip feed of used motor oil. It burns odorless and smokeless while consuming approximately 1 litre per hour.

[@sparksmcgee6641]

We need a walk through video. Now explanation of the waste oil process, just the parts of your unit.

[@humblehombre9904]

As a block layer, I just want to offer a little advice. When creating such heat with concrete, you can get explosive ejections of the concrete or the blocks, especially when moisture is in the concrete. Just be cautious. That is helped by lining with fire brick. Absolutely beauty ideas here. I am going to make one for my shop.

[@NextGenerationHealth]

You made the waste oil burner explanation EASY to understand like no other. I love the idea of combining a drip feed oil burner with a rocket stove -- brilliant!

[@RodneyWhittle007]

Another winner Rob. I love the stuff that I might actually be able to do myself. I've been meaning to change my own oil and save some money. Have not done that for years - now I have a little extra motivation.

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

awesome mate - well this is good build to try out for sure

[@jwioo]

Back in the 60's every garage workshop had 1 of these, mostly made from sheet metal and it wasn't thought necessary to vent them outside as the shops were quite drafty. A commercially made one called the Salamanda was really effective and used to roar like a rocket motor. We still had frozen nuts in the winter though.

[@kevparr]

Son in law is a mechanic works in a garage that has one, just on the right side of useless.

[@jwioo]

@@kevparr He needs to take a look at it, they should glow red hot when working properly and make toast.

[@Beatlefan67]

I saw one in a garage in Cornwall. It was a stack of wheels with the centres cut out. There was a huge metal guard around it, luckily, as when it got going the whole lot glowed red and sounded like a Vulcan bomber.

[@rowanbrecknell4021]

I made an oil burner years ago using a cast iron garlic prawn cooker. I bored a hole in the top for a chimney and bolted the two halves together. It was drilled full of holes for the air flow. The chimney went right to the bottom so the heat of the chimney would heat up the oil in the base. I could not get away from using a wick. The end product is tar after all the burning. It worked and got very hot. I am inspired to have another go. I have a bit of waste oil about. I built a rocket stove a few years ago but it seems to only want to run on liquid fuels, vege oil. Might be time to combine the two.

[@shanehogarth6373]

Thanks Robert. I have been experimenting for a while now with waste oil heating. I have a pot belly stove contained in a sealed oil drum. A small cage fan from an old gas boiler for the flame and a huge snail blower that blows cold air across the pot belly stove. This then comes out a 4" vent and the plan is to have hot air heating distributed around the lower floor of the house (I have a basement). With tweaking you can get a blue flame too. Some basic electronics monitor air flow and levels in burn pot, as well as carbon monoxide and smoke from inside the drum. I have sprung loaded flaps that close in the event of a problem, closing the exhaust and hot air outlet, as well as the fuel feed and burner air supply. It's coming on and last test I had hot air in excess of 60c coming out and a heck of a lot of it. Thanks for all your videos.

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

that sounds like an awesome thing mate - like the way you heat and distribute the air

[@misamsung6191]

Interesting, a buddy of mine heated his house with his airtight wood burner. What he did was to put thermometers around the room at ceiling level where the wood burner was to see just where the hotspots in the room were. Being that interior walls are mostly stud walls in Canada, he opened up the wall where the hottest spot was and put in a small oscillating vane box fan. Do I need to say that he put in an outlet and dressed the hole back up nice? This allowed him to move the warm air around his house. As memory serves he did that from his living room to several other rooms on the ground floor of his house.

[@inmyopinion6836]

What about waste oil through salvaged automobile fuel injection system parts that are too worn out for regular fuel? With forced air and high-pressure low volume fuel injection wouldn't you get an extremely efficient heater? I would LOVE to see your take on this!

[@yougeo]

Always good when Rob brings out the blow torch. It's been a while!

[@craftymulligar]

You help people who don't know anything. To better design their own systems. That's good thanks. What's I want is something really safe small and slow burn. For more time.

[@Stoneman06660]

Seems like what we need is a split system where the exhaust gas is vented outside but the heat transferred and circulated within the dwelling. While this may create some energy loss, if the fuel and infrastructure is cheap enough, it benefits outweigh. Great project.

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

exactly

[@C-M-E]

You can easily plumb a heat exchanger into the exhaust stream and run water through it. I have a setup very similar for emergency heating with my wood-burning fireplace to extract more heat out of the fuel. Still looking at running a passive 'heat pump' system through it too, but metal tubing costs have skyrocketed in my area, even for scrap that would need some patching welds.

[@TgWags69]

concrete blocks are not a good choice for direct fire applications, they will crumble very quickly. You can stack terracotta flower pots or drainage tile for a quick and sufficient flue liner to keep it from cracking the concrete blocks. Also if you run the drip line down a section of the chimney, it will preheat the oil and make the burn better. I used to have an old fashioned furnace like this in my garage. It had a very simple burn pot and an adjustable drip valve in it with a mica window. I fashioned a coffee tin up to a nearby jack post and would burn used motor and cooking oil. I found that mixing a small percentage of gasoline into the oil (especially when it was very cold outside) helped tremendously with getting it going. Of coarse having a lid on the pot and making sure to keep the lines full to maintain pressure and prevent back burning was more of a concern when dealing with gasoline vapors even when mixed, so I don't really recommend it, just what I did to get it going. Once things were hot, it would be a roaring fire for sure :)

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

nice tips - cheers mate

[@a.k.4550]

Excellent explanation and demonstration of convective flow being used to improve combustion! I've played around with burning waste oil in a style of vaporizing pot oil burner that used to be quite common in my region somewhere from the 50's up into the 70's. Due to viscosity, mixture was limited to 50% waste oil+diesel fuel, any heavier and the "carburetor" could not be adjusted to provide enough fuel to maintain combustion chamber/flue temperature high enough to ensure proper draft. In addition, the waste oil would hardly move through a 10mm line with everything sitting at -30 celsius.

[@TonyGingrich]

My father was an automotive technician. He worked full time for an employer, and the majority of his off time was continued work in his private shop providing service for his own loyal customer base. Back then, environmental regulations were relatively lax regarding petroleum products. Auto parts stores were not setup to accept and dispose of waste oil products. Being the clever man he still is, my father collected and stored used oil from his work. Never charged his customers a disposal fee--as was otherwise standard in the trade. He built a massive rocket stove. So during the cold seasons; he saved bankrolls of cash for heating his poorly insulated shop, by using the collected oil as fuel for the stove. His was a small 2-bay shop. We worked year long with the doors completely open. We never suffered a cold day. Our only discomfort was during the hot seasons, for we likewise had no feasible means to cool the shop.

[@kenbellchambers4577]

Thank you for this brilliant and clear explanation. This is certainly lifesaving technology. Peace and blessings to you and your channel.

[@mind_ful]

You are really a grate scientist, hats off to you. I love you little experiments, and most of them help me make my kid understand the basics to advance level of physics and science. Thank you

[@corinneyeager]

GOT TO LOVE A MAN THAT WISLES 🥰

[@agoogleaccount2861]

Had a thought. A brake line and an old machine drip oiler into a wood stove dripping onto porous firebrick in the center of the burn box of maybe into a preheated vaporization tube to make it run in a hybrid manner .. old cooking oil will burn this way also and smells a lot less noxious

[@Twistedmetal-qe8kx]

That's incredible, great build. All the oil change shops here in northern Canada have a more complicated waste oil burner that heats the shop for free using the old motor oil. I believe they use a pump and nozzle to spray the oil in a burner. A very small amount of diesel mixed in the motor oil will drop the viscosity of the oil, and improve the flow.

[@travismoore7849]

Just use an old tin or old coffee metal can and a wick of paper cloth. It burns dirty and makes lots of suit but you can burn it in your stove. Putting a can up near the chimney on some blocks or something helped. But I think you need some sort of wick and ring that is free floating so oil drips down into the wick under a chimney so it gets air from underneath.

[@steamsearcher]

Love the content Robert. A superb cheap valve is the water ones found at the back of washing machines. I am using one on my model 5 inch gauge locomotive sat in the water to control the injector. Injectors dont work if any air comes into the flow. Very cheap and effective 45 degree from off to on. David and Lily Reading.

[@pixelspring]

Great stuff. The only thing I would add is a some caution for any attempted set up … used motor oil soot combustion products and possibly many of the other original chemical additives and contaminants in the gases from incomplete low temp combustion will be likely highly carcinogenic. I don’t know of course, but it stands to reason one would want to exhaust any chimney products well clear and high into atmosphere.

[@mikejones-vd3fg]

Great stuff, seeing the logical progression of how a oil heater evolves. When you simply look at an oil lamp its hard to know whats going on even with explanation but this makes it all clear. This could be a good alternative to burning wood say as a van lifer , recycling useless oil rather then burning wood seems like the more sustainable thing to do. That deliciouse carbon would be released into the air providing nutriouse food for plants and trees, who werent cut down thanks to the recycling of this oil, could only make this planet greener.

[@SchwaAlien]

It’s a good idea to run used motor oil through a centrifuge to clean the garbage out of it that’s no good for burning, usually there is some antifreeze in it that cannot be filtered using mechanical methods (that should be used before the centrifuge) and that will keep whatever is burning the oil from needing to be serviced / cleaned / replaced as often. Waste fryer oil can benefit from being cleaned this way before being burnt as well since it’ll likely contain some water from food or small water soluble particles (if you cook off the water) that’ll gunk up the burner after a while.

[@martehoudesheldt5885]

go look at a orchard heater (now banned) (smudg pot) farmers used them in fields to keep crops from freezing. ran on used oil and started with diesel.

[@settlece]

oh yes i loved the video. You got my mind thinking of more options then just of the shelf solutions, thanks so much

[@308dad8]

Interesting. We use a deep fryer and sometimes have used seed oils and I’ve wondered about how to make a heater that uses that.

[@antoniomaccagnan7200]

Great explanation, just what i was looking for.

[@marshmoreland8365]

I love you This is one of the best presentations I've ever seen.

[@AndreaDingbatt]

Fantastic upload Rob!! I've noticed that most blokes like playing with fire,Lol! Stirling video on the way?!!🙂

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

lol - it's a primordial thing Andrea lol - who doesn't like a pretty flame lol

[@brianlittleforest631]

12 valve cummins owner here. I burn waste oil for fuel. Tried a 70/30 diesel/oil mix and it was ok summer time but now that its fall I've found the need to install a second tank and move to a 15/15/70 gas/diesel/oil mix. Lots of haze and quite a bit of black smoke at the moment running just a diesel/oil mix. As I understand it, waste motor oil has 150000 btus(ish) of energy but the flash point is 50-60 degrees farenhiet higher then diesel, while diesel obny has 130000 btus of potential energy. Alot of guys cut it with plain petrol to get it to burn "faster" otherwise running straight oil is a bit rough although a 12 valve will actually drink it. I did try it straight and she idled rough until it warm to temp and it smoked realllly bad. Wonder if cutting it with some old petrol would help the heater run cleaner.

[@C-M-E]

You're a diesel turbo and some tubing away from being a certified Flamiac, Robert! 👍 You know you want to... As an added side effect bonus, once you get a fair amount of carbon build-up in your burn tube further up (or out, exit orientation dependent), you end up with a very nice insulating effect allowing you to run hotter and hotter.

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

lolol - who doesn't like a nice flame mate - just thinking about venturis !!

[@Skaadi89]

I was going to get into casting metals got plans for a new engine for my moped was going to use a waste oil burning furnace to melt stuff down mostly cause I have access to a large amount of used motor oils. My planning was to make a small diesel engine for it so it could also run off of used motor oil

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

nice one mate - do some vids I would love to see that

[@Skaadi89]

@@ThinkingandTinkering had planned on it still trying to collect parts and tools for the process it has been in the planning for many years now lol

[@docink6175]

you can make a fairly efficient oil filter out of tolls of toilet tissue or paper towels in an inclined pvc pipe, slip the rolls on a smallr pipe with a disc at the end so you can easily pull the "filter" from the main tube.. dirty oil in at the top, less dirty comes out the spigot at the bottom

[@Axman6]

I remember reading in the SAS Survival Manual that a similar idea burning diesel worked much more efficiently if a little bit of water was also dripped in with the fuel - I’d be interested to see how that performs with motor oil.

[@308dad8]

Why water? What’s the water supposed to do?

[@Clip7heApex]

Coil of copper tube and you've got a nice little water heater there too

[@brentsmith5647]

Brilliant video thank you 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@douglasfur3808]

I did a similar oil burner using 4 insulating firebrick standing on end on a spiral pattern. I set them with a gap ~1cm at 4 places. The spiral meant the entering air didn't impinge directly on the flame. (The calculator in my phone says that was 52 years ago.😁)

[@kreynolds1123]

Mass heater to a new level: Imagine a rocket stove whose chimney snakes right and left as it travels up through a cinder block wall. So much more surface area and mass to absorb the heat energy and radiate it.

[@victoryfirst2878]

This has to be how the rocket stove design came about. Nice

[@naturesmoments1297]

Looks ideal for a garage set-up, is there any problem with emissions if you put a chimney out through the roof, i.e over time the soot landing around fields and so on, cheers and thanks for posting 👌

[@corringhamdepot4434]

A long time ago I scrapped a load of electric storage heaters. Often wondered if I could have reused the bricks some how? Wondering how hot a heat source the bricks would tolerate for fast heat storage. Would it be better than using a water tank as a heat sink. Umm? 🤔

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

wow - what an opportunity missed mate -t hey would have been awesome have around now!

[@corringhamdepot4434]

@@ThinkingandTinkering Around 2000 I replaced the storage heaters in a flat I was selling. As the original ones looked like the builders got a job lot of industrial ones. You could not buy new heaters without the bricks. I kept a few of the old ones around for some years. As they are very heavy, and useful to hold things down. There are plenty of bricks on Ebay now.

[@nickprague1481]

Always excellent informative videos. Have you tried finning the chimney to draw off more heat?

[@regmix7314]

Robert. Love your channel I really do. Any tips for the safest most efficient way of heating a camper van which is my home . I’m currently using candle and plant pot method.which to be fair isn’t that bad First autumn and winter coming up.

[@philyaboots1]

Love it, what guage copper pipe did you use to feed the flame?

[@ESLinsider]

That was great I just wished you showed how your drip feed worked.

[@ColRubyDimplesManacha]

That's so awesome! Thanks for everything you do, Robert!

[@TheD3m0n93]

Rob, is there any way to effectively generate electricity from a device like this? I know you have worked with thermocouples in a few past videos but from research, they seem like they may be fairly inefficient. Do you think you'd be able to power something via the exhaust gases? Like a Tesla turbine?

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

a stirling engine maybe mate?

[@kreynolds1123]

If your main goal is heat, then a little themopile energy is cheap DIY DC energy icing on top of the cake. Imagine painting a wall on the other side of the room with some of Robert's conductive paint with a wire strip and the top and bottom. Running some current from your themopile will generate heat elseware in your home.

[@jamest.5001]

Car rims can also make a burner, but requires more work, steel rims welded back to back, with a pipe welded in the center of the top one, with it sitting on a piece of sheet steel, drill holes in the bottom for the fuel supply, and air, the wheel design may need a piece of sheet steel to cover the top, but 2"-2.75" pipe will fit in the center, a coil of tubing inside can be used to make hot water, or steam, I think it would be best to use a heat exchanger, and store the heated water for use in. An actual water heater tank! The heat exchanger could be a PVC 4" pipe plugged on both ends, fresh water pumped slowly through a 1/4" -1/2" tubing , either coiled, or made into zigzags that fit in the pipe, use a threaded barb fitting large enough for the tubing to just fit through, use a piece of rubber hose to seal it, or solder it, but drill and tap the end caps for the fittings, use about 1/2" fitting to circulate the water into the tunnel on one end out on the other, and the same with the fresh water into the tank, and back out using a 10-25 +/- gph pump for each, run it for about a hour twice a day, it should keep hot water! I'd go with 3/8" tubing put about 25'-50' of it in a 5' piece of 4" PVC pipe, being sure it is cleaned and glued well, maybe even put a ratchet strap around it , holding the ends on if it's ran very hot, at high pressure, a small pump circulating the water slowly isn't adding pressure, a couple gallons of oil should last a week or two, if the water can be kept at least 110° a small point of use heater can be used to add heat, when the water is colder, Cool thing is it burns anything, used vegoil, motor oil, even plastic or wood, add a radiator and pipe it can heat home also, from outside where you aren't as likely to burn yourself homeless! I'm planning on building a boiler shed with foamcrete with a bit of fence wire reinforcement, about 2.5"thick being a fair insulator, depending on mixture, maybe use a steel frame and casing to make the door from foamcrete as well ,

[@wmsatic]

It might be interesting to work with one of the rocket mass heat innovators, such as "Efficient, Clean Wood heat" by Paul Wheaton or "The Rocket Mass Heater Builder's Guide" by Ernie and Erica Wisner, to add an oil burner option to one of their projects. Also combining this with your carbon felt wicks seems like it would have potential.

[@user-dm1tv6nl2e]

I bet those Permies guys would have some serious inputs

[@icebluscorpion]

Do you know those ultrasound fog maker for garden? Why not use that to make a very fine aerosol/air Mixtur tu get the oil burning?

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

I do mate - will they work with oils?

[@ianclarke8821]

@@ThinkingandTinkering no they won’t!

[@angelusmendez5084]

The brick part was like if you were playing with Legos 😂

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

I just love it when it is that simple mate! and it was like playing with lego lol

[@JamesBrown-sr1zy]

How long did your concrete blocks last after being exposed to that amount of heat? Mine ended up as rubble after a few weeks.

[@alexwild4350]

I've found this video extremely valuable in understanding waste oil burners. However the returning issue I come across, second only to the expense and installation issues, is the chimney. When held against the competition from a Paraffin stove obtained second hand, Ebay for example which needs no chimney, or the cost of a Chinese Diesel Heater for its low price point and ease of installation, even though it needs an exhaust outlet which is greatly eased by only needing little more than a 1 inch hole for the flexible stainless steel pipe work supplied, or longer lengths for pennies, there seems little practical value to be gained from " I made this one myself, a waste oil burner " There is still a major issue behind the Chinese Diesel Heater that the Paraffin and waste oil burner described hold - there is no electricity required to run them. The waste oil heater by the looks of things needs a secondary fuel source to get it going, which is another consideration. The holly grail would no doubt be a never ending wick for a Paraffin heater. I beleive you've just released a video with such a title so I shall go watch it now :) Many thanks.

[@RichardCranium321]

I wonder if you could use something like an air filter for A.C units, but a high heat one. I have a bag for cooking fish or veggies on the grill, it uses a fireproof mesh. Maybe make replaceable "cartridges" ?

[@neilyakuza6595]

Love it! You just gave me an idea!

[@macbutty1]

LMTN makes a good burner for cooking

[@littleworkshopofhorrors2395]

In case no one else asks, can you use your carbon wick in this situation?

[@angelusmendez5084]

Awesome! 👏

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@THEOGGUNSHOW]

Thanks for another wonderful video mate 👍

[@jamest.5001]

You don't have to use cement, a high temperature silicone can be used, then it can be disassembled , moved and reused, even liquid nails, or spray foam insulation glued fairly well, the heat may be a bit much really close to the fire, but the silicone will work there, use this to heat a coil of tubing, to make steam! That's as far as I'm going with that, you probably know what id do with that! This can very easily be the source of extreme heat, use a bit of steel to reinforce it a much larger version is possible use a full block as the chimney, heat a few pieces of 1" tubing, going into a 4" x ?? Steam tank to be super heated,, at least 1/8" wall, with pressure release at least 3/4", have the steam tank, with water tubes under it, and the fire about 6" below that, with the blocks around that, with around 150-200 psi relief, because that would make one heck of a Boom!! 🔥 Plus the steam would burn, Definitely have safety relief, maybe multiples,

[@sohcahtoa5786]

As most common motor oils are a synthetic or blend do they work as well (or at all) compared to conventional crude oil based oils?

[@SchwaAlien]

Synthetics usually are made from a natural gas or coal gas feedstock and what they are is oil with uniform molecules because it was catalyzed instead of refined from oil with lots of different molecular species, so it shouldn’t be a problem.

[@TrueSighted]

Have you done any videos on diy blowtorches? Or forge burners? Or even making a torch that will burn propane for fuel and burn it at an increased heat than propane would normally burn at, in a propane torch? Always looking for other options for creating a hot flame that doesn't require acetylene. Though I hear theres an ore that will release unpressurized acetylene as a byproduct of getting it wet. Apperently used it as a cheap source of light in old mine lamps. Don't remember off hand which ore it was. Cheers.

[@Gravel1331]

Calcium Carbide is what was used in old mining lamps. Cheers. :)

[@TrueSighted]

@@Gravel1331 That's the one. Couldn't think of the name to save my skin today. Lol Thanks. 😉

[@Gravel1331]

@@TrueSighted :)

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

good answer from Paul mate

[@DFPercush]

I guess you could run propane through a welding torch. Adding pure oxygen will definitely make it hotter. Not sure if it would be hot enough to weld with - probably depends on the material, but certainly hotter than a blowtorch.

[@ZsOtherBrother]

Is there a (relatively simple) way to burn the oil more completely? How badly does this pollute the air? I mean, what are the products of waste oil fire, with and without a complete burn? Thanks

[@bretthorwood9396]

A good idea to expand on here as there is plenty of waste around like this. Could the atomisation of the oil and mixing with air produce a better quality result? If you put the oil into a pressure tank and pump the tank up with a compressor and put a shut off valve into it and fuel valve and at the end make a small nozzle and air mixing inlet with a pipe with holes around it which is called a gas injection mixing system? Heating the oil up in the tube you could pass several turns of oil feed tube through the flame to create a thinner oil or gas. Fuel for thought?

[@ianclarke8821]

See Babington burner

[@dpkdspkv9101]

This is very useful Thank you

[@theresedupre7495]

Could use the carbon wick?

[@marianb794]

Hi Rob! What if we spray some water on the flame?

[@bartronicsecurity]

And if you used a solid metal pipe for the chimney instead of concrete and the tube was in the middle of the room then the whole room really gets warm. Believe me I know that. Best way to use what others trash. Btw putting a round tank of say 40 litres near the height of the flame can give you 40 liters of hot water as well.

[@m.griffith2059]

I am new at this .. meaning researching alternative means of heating. This cinder block heating unit looks dangerous. How can it be used for a home? It must be encased some how right? Or are you just demonstrating the use of oil and not advocating this cinder block unit to be used in ones home. (dugh sounds like I am very stupid, I know... sorry.) Anyway. How does one apply this method to home heating. I have a wood stove fireplace insert and thinking, I might be able to figure out how to do this in it. But also doesn't the cage melt? And the batting, doesn't it burn away?

[@azlandpilotcar4450]

Very good! Would't your original oil burner with coil and nozzle, pointed down, work nearly as well as the basket structure?

[@DFPercush]

I'm just a layman here, but I think the big difference is that you're not just vaporizing the oil, you're relying on the cotton to carry the flame. That heavy, thick oil would smoke and form soot and tar before it got hot enough to vaporize.

[@brandiminor1632]

This was great. Thank you.

[@joelaichner3025]

Two intact cells , builds a new you , beyond Logic Diamonds

[@kimmcmillan8986]

Can you only use used diesel oil or can you 10-w - 30

[@woodworks2123]

Does the forever wick work with the used motor oil?

[@Tabletsculptingtips]

Hello Robert, I really appreciate your videos, they’re extremely inspiring/idea generating. Sorry this question is off topic, but I thought commenting here was my best chance of reaching you: in your video about making the paper bike, you give a recipe for making casein glue - my question is what/where do I buy the actual casein? (I’m in the UK btw) Is the type sold as dietary casein suitable or is there a better/cheaper source. Presumably I need to be looking for water soluble casein to make the process easier. If you are able to reply and point me in the right direction I’d appreciate it hugely. Thanks again.

[@breannestahlman5953]

Isn't motor oil toxic fumes if burned inside house?

[@daviddingley7997]

Could you use the Rocket stove as an oil burner?

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

guess what tomorrow's video is lol

[@AndreaDingbatt]

@@ThinkingandTinkering 💞😎👍

[@paulwright8378]

Doesn't concrete explode when it gets too hot

[@fatelon5656]

Hi Robert, how about your take on a wind turbine that produces hot water with some copper pipe instead of a stator coil , might be interesting

[@TheBaconWizard]

hahaha your neighbour wondering what that nut-case from next-door is up-to THIS time?? I am guessing this type of system would work just fine for other heavy liquids like veggie-oil, glycerin, bio-diesel etc with varying rates of drip. Which brings me to a question. It seems dangerous to me that you could potentially have it drip too fast and spill everywhere outward from the fire. Probably be ok with engine-oil, but not some other fuels. I wonder if there is a way to make sure that doesn't happen? Something akin to a carburettor?

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

this is only good for waste oil really mate - there are better ways to deal with lighter fuels - but you are right our neighbour thinks we are cracked lol

[@TheBaconWizard]

@@ThinkingandTinkering that’s a shame, a truly multifuel rocket-mass heater would be a boon! But I know it’s asking quite a lot.

[@markusgarvey]

I use generator's a lot in the winter and I am preparing to run the exhaust through a heat exchanger to supplement my heat. There is so much energy that is wasted in the exhaust!

[@Buzzhumma]

That mineral wool is excellent idea. Is it the same as rock wool ?

[@johnmccallum8512]

Yes Rockwool is a Trade name.

[@Farm_fab]

Chimney tiles are much more durable than concrete blocks. The blocks are porous, and become brittle from continued heating and cooling cycles.

[@maelstrombeats6374]

ay rob, i know your on the heater kick... but i was wondering if you would be interested in exploring the use of sodium perchlorate in aqueous solutions to improve the voltage capability, I am investigating it as a method of improving the output of a modified NiFe battery, but i would love to see what you could accomplish with your ink and an appropriate electrolyte solution! I am also super keen for you to try the wet grinder method of graphene production as a beneficial side effect of grinding brittle crystal oxides with graphite instead of salt, to see if you can make an ink blend with high conductivity through the process of wet grinding itself.

[@maelstrombeats6374]

just an additional seed of thought, hydrogen fuel cells main expense is the catalyst... and this wet grind method of reduction could potentially promote 1 atom iron production... so... it would be super interesting to see if you could make your ink able to absorb hydrogen for a hydrogen fuel cell.

[@samnewman3608]

Is a Rocket Stove smokeless

[@rhiantaylor3446]

What has stopped me burning waste engine oil is the thought that the fumes would include the additives originally included in the oil - zinc, heavy metals ? if anyone can explain why this would not be a problem I would be very grateful.

[@Noswiatel]

Ever considered something more fancy, like using steam to ignite boiling oil? Sort of like trying to out out a flaming pan of vegetable oil with water, but in a controlled manner.

[@offgridnzdotcom1027]

i heated a 4000l swimming pool with mine and ran radiators in the buses, had a 6m chimney burning pretty clean but was still worried what the smoke may have contained

[@FRESNEL_COOKING_SOLAR_OVENS24]

Please use natural zeolite granules. Its said they absord oil very well and stay very hot and could act like a giant whick

[@screen-protector]

Well, few things from me: 1. If you want to heat your house with it and it's isolated, recuparated well with a heavy walls like bricks that can take a lot of heat inside that's mean you need 15kW of energy for the heating season only to heat it up, than this make no sense :D. Esspecially if you have no chimney. I mean a passive house. 2. But, if want to added to a place where there's a chimney and/or some place where you can add one, it's nice :) I'd say. 3. If I'd have some bricks here, didn't have to buy and I could do it inside, not outside, I'd heat up some either sand battery or get the heat across some heat capacitive thing to sustain it there. Our British houses can loose a lot of heat, so we need it more. Maybe let's focus as well on keeping the heat inside the house and not only about putting more heat inside the house? :) Don't get me wrong, I love those ideas, but nothing is here to limit the amount of needed heat, and that along can save a small fortune ;). There are houses, passive houses that need as little as 7.5kW for the whole heating season. Even if you'd have to pay it as a electricity, it's a laugh. For sure everyone could effort it ;).

[@robsycko]

Now make an insert for a fireplace.

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

-t wouldn't be much different from this

[@dremaboy777]

Great 👍🏾

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@chrishill1219]

Hi Robert, have you tried the Vevor heater on waste engine oil yet?

[@linuxxxunil]

Vevor heater?

[@pvc988]

Install that in your shed, workshop or wherever else, use it for a few days and wait to see how big the fine will be. Probably around few hundred €.

[@ThinkingandTinkering]

I think that would depend on where you are talking about - which country and indeed which area you live in