[17] McLane Edger || Cutterhead Pulley & Shaft || Review, improvement & other helpful info

[@RobertDinTulsa]

𝗣𝗿𝗼𝗺𝗼𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗘𝗔𝗡: 𝗧𝗛𝗨𝗠𝗕𝗦 𝘂𝗽/𝗱𝗼𝘄𝗻 - _𝗶𝘁'𝘀 𝗮 𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗴𝗹𝗲 𝗰𝗹𝗶𝗰𝗸_ 𝗦𝗨𝗕𝗦𝗖𝗥𝗜𝗕𝗘 - _𝗶𝘁'𝘀 𝗮 𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗴𝗹𝗲 𝗰𝗹𝗶𝗰𝗸_ 𝗡𝗢𝗧𝗜𝗙𝗜𝗖𝗔𝗧𝗜𝗢𝗡 𝗯𝗲𝗹𝗹 - _𝗶𝘁'𝘀 𝗮 𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗴𝗹𝗲 𝗰𝗹𝗶𝗰𝗸_ 𝗦𝗛𝗔𝗥𝗘 - _𝗶𝘁 𝘁𝗮𝗸𝗲𝘀 𝗮 𝗹𝗶𝘁𝘁𝗹𝗲 𝗹𝗼𝗻𝗴𝗲𝗿 𝗯𝘂𝘁 𝗵𝗮𝘀 𝗮 𝗵𝘂𝗴𝗲 𝗶𝗺𝗽𝗮𝗰𝘁_

[@chas.fournet1087]

Excellent info, Thank You! Do you (or anybody) have experience dealing with the known Mclane issue of 'blade-angle sag'? (This is when the blade angle, set to the default notch, is no longer parallel to the concrete edge, but is tilted down/in toward the concrete, leading to premature blade wear and missed grass sprouts or sprigs that are rooted against the concrete... And of course moving to the NEXT angle notch setting up moves it too far PAST parallel, leading to a wonky-looking edge and trash left in the slot.) ANY help greatly appreciated!

[@RobertDinTulsa]

I've never had that problem and I've had mine since 1999.

[@pnwester2697]

A 10 inch Oregon 40-503 is a nice thick .149 blade. It’s as thick as I’ve seen them. Got mine on eBay. A 10 pack for $50. None of the big box stores in my area carried a good fit.

[@RobertDinTulsa]

I take it that they fit the McLane edger, correct? Are they balanced? Get this...I'm still using that same blade but it's nearing the end of it's lifespan. I just had to change a couple of things in my edging process.

[@pnwester2697]

@@RobertDinTulsa They do fit my McLane. Two sharpened edges (which doesn’t matter to me). I guess they’re balanced. I help with grounds maintenance at our church where the grass edge measures 9/10 of a mile not including the street curb which is done with a string trimmer. The edging had been neglected so the first edging of this season wore one blade down 80% but the concrete edge is real irregular. The every two week touch up trimming wears it down much less.

[@RobertDinTulsa]

@@pnwester2697 Yeah, smart move. Every other week is one key. Another is to not push the blade against the concrete or too deep. They last a LOT longer.

[@brucebonkowski9568]

Just to let you know wade want to improve your cutter I used a shaft from a little wonder and put 2 pulleys to my mclane edger which the blades you have are nice I used the Sears X Blade which gives you a clean cut but if you have to help a neighbor out put on the 2nd belt with a blade using a 1/2" hole give you unbelievable power edger

[@patrickconroy8729]

That washer you put on at 2:30 in, is too wide. You need a washer that only covers the inside bearing race. When u tighten everything down it will not turn otherwise

[@RobertDinTulsa]

Thanks for the advice. It's been running fine ever since I put it on/made that video. ZERO issues.

[@willymena]

I have to thank you for this video.... let me tell you why. I recently replaced both bearings on my circa 1995 McLane Edger as well as the "Cutterhead Pulley & Shaft". I've tried 2 different sets of bearings and neither sits flush with the tub it sits in. They both come out slightly. I'm not sure if it's my tube (I doubt it) or a change in the bearing. In any case, the "shoulder" on the "Cutterhead Pulley & Shaft" does not come out past the bearing. As a result, when I tighten the blade, the unit will not turn. Now that I know that the "Rotary" made ""Cutterhead Pulley & Shaft" that you show here has a slightly longer shoulder than the "McLane" made one, I'll go ahead and order it and it should resolve my issue. I would suggest that you add back the spring washer that goes in between the pulley end and the bearing.

[@anthonytriolo3643]

Replacement blade,get a used lawn blade and cut it to size ,having been using that for 30 yrs.

[@ericisrael8443]

how do you replace the bearings for the cutterhead pully and shaft? I cant pull the shaft out its stuck. thanks eric

[@RobertDinTulsa]

Eric, once you have the shaft out you simply have to: 1) insert a screwdriver (or some other longer instrument of your choice) through the hole in the left set of bearings, angled up or down until it hits against the outer edge of the right set of bearings... 2) use a hammer (or some other striking device) to strike against the screwdriver...several times until the right set of bearings pop out 3) repeat the above procedures for the left bearings (except that you won't have to insert the screwdriver through the right bearings since you have already popped them out.

[@RobertDinTulsa]

Eric, That missing 1/4-20x1/2 screw on front of the housing that holds shaft and bearing secures the pulley cover (that you are also missing) to the rest of the assembly that you have been focused on. That screw will most likely come with your pulley cover order. You are correct, the prices have gone up a lot, relatively speaking. I will amend that information in the videos description. Thanks for the heads up. Another piece of advice: Get a manual. Google: Mclane Edger Manual Glad I could help - It sucks being frustrated with something and you seeming have nowhere to turn for help.

[@willymena]

Well, I picked up this new pully/shaft and tried it out. Unfortunately, the shoulder on it is no different than the McLane part. Maybe it's been changed after complaints like yours :-(

[@willymena]

It was definitely the same one. Here's what I think. If you look at the pulley/shaft you got, it's a pulley that's tig welded near the end. Yours clearly is tig welded farther up the shaft than mine was giving you more play. The one I purchased was actually worse than the McLane version, in that it's actually shorter than the McLane version. Tolerances at Rotary must not be too good... or... they made changes to the part in the past few years. The problem I'm having is the new bearings are not sitting flush to the tube. They're each sticking out about 1/8". That causes the bearings to bind when I tighten the blade.

[@willymena]

In addition... comparing the one I received and the one you show in your video.... your pulley is noticeably closer to the top of the shaft than mine is. If I had yours, it would work for me. If you had mine, you would not need the washer.