18 - How to Build A Torsion Box Assembly Table Top (Part 1 of 2)

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How to make a Torsion Box Assembly Table. A method learned from David Marks at djmarks.com
When assembling projects, nothing beats a wide and spacious dead flat surface. And one of the easiest and most efficient ways to create a dead flat surface is by constructing what is known as a torsion box. A torsion box is really nothing more than a grid-work with a skin on both sides. This creates a very strong, yet light, structure that resists warping and sagging. Its very similar to the concept behind an airplane wing. This episode covers the construction of the Torsion Box top and Episode 19 covers the construction of the base.
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[@woodwhisperer]

Click here for a higher resolution version: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fXO7l2qbqqmqms0

[@Rage-of-War]

Thank you, I was about to comment on the "grain" and I wasn't talking about oak or cherry lol lol

[@fernandosoren3068]

You all prolly dont care at all but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account? I stupidly lost my login password. I appreciate any help you can give me.

[@fletcherpeyton1963]

@Fernando Soren Instablaster :)

[@fernandosoren3068]

@Fletcher Peyton thanks for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.

[@fernandosoren3068]

@Fletcher Peyton It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thanks so much you saved my ass :D

[@user-pp9sw9qg7d]

You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice kzbin.infoUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.

[@striveforselflessness3220]

I would like to thank you for all the time and effort you spend to lend a professional hand. I don't know how many out there truly realize the time you spend designing, preparing for construction, assembly, describing/teaching/educating, recording, re-recording, editing, etc. but I'm guessing it's few. Thanks again.

[@ChrisB_NC]

I know this video is seven years old, but I love this table design. I've been watching woodworking shows (NORM!!) since I was a kid and this is one of my favorite projects. Good solid techniques that dont rely on gimicky tools. I especially like that you showed simple solutions for drawer handles and slides without the need for commercial jigs. Great Job! I'm dying to build it.

[@jumperstartful]

I went to my local bank to get a loan for a new table saw. They asked what I was going use as collateral for the loan. I told them the Wood Wisperer's clamps, they said "no problem".

[@mcseforsale]

I make video arcades from 3/4 MDF. I have a couple of suggestions that I've picked up over the years. First, always cut and machine MDF outdoors. It's fun and easy to just get out the compressor and blow the dust towards the neighbor's freshly cleaned car. Second, once you've done any cutting/machining on MDF, you can armor the edges using a 5:1 mix of wood glue and water. Apply it to the machined edges with a foam brush. Wait for it to dry and then hit it with some 220 grit to remove the pebbling. You will now have a very strong edge. YMMV.

[@woodwhisperer]

Yeah, I don't see why not. I definitely did it the hard way in this video. But that was the way I was taught. There are a few ways you can do it to save time and effort. Your idea sounds like a good one.

[@ishortland]

This is a great video, clear instruction and explanation throughout. An inspiration to many.

[@woodwhisperer]

This video was actually created for Fine Woodworking and there were time considerations. But the info should all be there. Also, if you would like to download a plan, you can find it at my site and at Fine Woodworking's as well.

[@JJose-22]

forget all that, this is by far the best video on youtube ive seen that clearly explains stuffs, with a decent quality video and voice!!!!! i mean daymmmnn why dint i find this before, i just came here looking for a way to get a flat surface for my cnc, but i learned a lot more than that, and i feel like learning more abt woodworking now, thank you soo much for such a good video m8, subbed and liked with no second thoughts ;d

[@woodwhisperer]

Jim Jose Thanks Jim for the kind words!

[@UDoIt2]

I'm looking to do this for a large format DIY CNC. Just watched the entire video. Thanks.

[@bradenmichaud5511]

Here in 2020....been holding on to this build for years, I finally have the time and space to build it 😊

[@woodwhisperer]

@TheDeltaFlight Sturdy, yes. But if you are going for a full-on workbench as opposed to just an assembly surface, solid wood is the way to go. Especially if you are going to use dogs and other work-holding items, those aren't going to hold up real well in MDF.

[@woodwhisperer]

@hansvledder haha well here's a little secret. You can already watch part 2 on my site. :) I haven't had a chance to upload it to KZbin yet. :)

[@TheMyeloman]

I haven't yet made a torsion box, but now this type of bench is in my radar and I'll be considering it. My table is topped with melamine and it's easy to clean. Dried glue either scrapes off of I cover it with a wet rag and that re activates it making it easy to wipe off. Generally I just wipe it down before it has a chance to dry though. The white surface also makes it very handy for drawing out full size drawings of most projects and then the pieces can be set right on the drawing letting me know right away if anything is sized incorrectly. It also gives me a much better sense of what the full sized piece will look like, and pencil wipes off easily with glass cleaner. Just a thought, I'm still considering the torsion box but may make a hybrid of it with the melamine top...

[@synapse131]

Thanks for the video Mark. Another great one to help with my learning. Keep 'em coming.

[@woodwhisperer]

No it should be fine. Many people have done this with great results. I say go for it.

[@gooeytarballs]

I built my first torsion box table for a relative. Mine was built as a large 'shelf' and supported on five or six "Closet Maid (as I recall the name) 20" brackets hung from their wall supports. I built the torsion supports out of 1/4" thick, 1.25" wide strips cut to the width and length of the box, respectively, then notched the bottom of the wide strips and the tops of the long strips so that they inter-locked*. I built the exterior/outside frame out f 1.25 x 1.5" material. I laid out the frame and squared them up, then Assembled the inter-locking strips within. With a layer of glue along the tops of the interior pieces, I laid a 1/8" plywood 'door skin' across the assembly and weighted it down evenly - letting it dry for 24 hours. Then, turning over, I applied glue again and another 'door skin.' The next day I. too, trimed the top and bottom flush with a trim bit. I transferred the measurements of the wall support to the edge destined to fit to the wall surface and routed neatly fitting reliefs for each vertical support. It was sanded, primed and painted before installing and served him and his TV and CD Player and books and such until he move to another residence. I dismantled the shelving and saved it and it is serving still (12 years on), in a new locale. One feature if the approach and materials I used was the size:weight issue, It was about three feet by seven and could be carried in one (albeit, younger) hand. As a work surface, I think it would suffice as well - with the addition of the finished replaceable hardboard insert and the addition of some hardwood edging. A work surface flat light and portable. * After viewing this video (which is very well done), I noticed "Torsion Box CNC or Assembly Table with Lumber Storage" which appears to use the same approach I did with the inner supports.

[@woodwhisperer]

I thought I uploaded here to KZbin but apparently not. You can find it in our Video archive under Projects on our site.

[@woodwhisperer]

Im a big fan of the 3m 7500 series. Works great.

[@woodwhisperer]

I haven't made a combo bench myself, but I know others have. Basically they just add a little extra reinforcement around the vise. And people tell me this works very well.

[@woodwhisperer]

It should. As long as you use lightweight materials and make sure it's fully supported, you should be good to go.

[@ecaff9515]

Excellent video and process. Thank you for sharing.

[@josephmartinez2231]

The ancient KZbin. Love the sound patch

[@TheSoloAsylum]

I dont whisper my wood. I tend to yell and scream at it. I like to get in it's head and mentally destroy it for at least a week or so. I sometimes sit a picture next to it of what I'm going to saw it up and turn it into...but I dont tell it when. I let it sit and think about it. I like to catch the wood off guard when it thinks I forgot at it. Then bam...into the saw.

[@mahtoosacks]

you have mastered the art of creating dibbuk boxes. Your furniture is engrained with ptsd horrors. Perfect for the in-laws!

[@RiyadhMarthinus]

two years later and it still gave me a giggle

[@jeffk464]

So if you don't have the jointer and a planer you can't setup the original working base.

[@singleservingjack1]

Great video. Question: Would OSB of the same thickness be just as strong for the inner grid? OSB is nearly 1/3 the price of MDF, and it's used in the joists in my house, so I'm assuming it has good compression and tensile properties. Your thoughts?

[@jacobhelber7485]

Thanks for the amount of time and detail you put into your videos. PS Nice sideburns from back in the day.

[@angelaslaney1514]

For others thinking of doing something similar, remember to treat both faces of the table the same, otherwise it it likely to warp. That hard-board needed a balancer.

[@b767greg]

I know this is an old video, but it is a great video! Thanks Marc!

[@HowIDoThingsDIY]

Beautiful table, man! I love your channel!

[@badgermost]

Thank you for answering. You and your work are quite an inspiration.

[@JHERNDO]

I count something like 50 parallel clamps in the background there. What's $3-4k in clamps between friends, eh? :) Also, the shot of you in your re-breather and your father in law using absolutely no dust mask was funny. Seriously though, always like your stuff Mark.

[@woodwhisperer]

Just the amount of additional work. It's a big grid with a lot of pieces. I know some folks who did cut dados and it seemed to work out well.

[@woodwhisperer]

Yes you can. Most of the table is made from MDF which doesn't require a jointer or a planer.

[@bobcatt2294]

Spagnuolo is pronounced with a long - a - however you pronounce it with a short - a -. Your video presentations are quite professional and helpful.

[@woodwhisperer]

@mightywombat Don't know for sure. But part of the strength is that the pieces support one another. By staggering them, you remove some of that support. How much of a difference does it really make? probably not much.

[@dwellerproductions6489]

Hi Marc, I've seen the same design except the grid work was alternated from the previous row. Do you think that makes a difference in the strength? I'm curious because alternating the grid work makes it easier to nail at you put them in.Thanks,Pete

[@woodwhisperer]

@hansvledder Hey Hans. The interlocking is probably a better way to do the grid, just more work. And thickness probably does affect stability. The thicker it is, the wider the matrix is, and the more resistant it is to bending. But its hard for me to know how much or at what point going too thin becomes a problem.

[@woodwhisperer]

Actually, they have a widely varied and delicious menu! :)

[@HansVledder]

@TheWoodWhisperer Thanks for sharing the secret :-p. Became a Guild member in the process. It's about time to support you guys. Especially because you (and Nicole) got me interested in (and enthousiastic about) woodworking to start with and have learned a lot from you so far. Need to go see episode 2 now, gotta rush. I still need these shoes to go to work ... Thanks! Hans

[@joelpalmer59]

Thanks, that makes it easy to replace if needed.

[@davidkenagy8706]

This is another very good video. Being less skilled than you, Norm, Tommy...I really like when stuff isn't level or plumb (my own experience) and you have to fix it on camera. Your work on the sawhorses got you to a point where the 2x4s went down straight, then so did your MDF. Your winding sticks showed all was well, nothing more needed. But that won't happen for me, so give me more on how to fix this...

[@woodwhisperer]

@hansvledder thanks buddy! Take care!

[@Nocturnal2010]

🤣🤣🤣 damn bro you were so young back then lmfao sorry, I had to. Still love the channel today 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾

[@daninil1]

Hi Mark. Thanks for the answer. So if I have solid wood left over I guess my best bet is a more 'standard' work bench. Like a Rubio, although I think that would be overkill for my purpose.

[@woodwhisperer]

@howser12 Oh man that sucks! Thanks for the heads up. Sorry it didnt work out for you.

[@badgermost]

Hello, I am a huge fan of you and your show from Brasil. I am a veeery beginner I was not able to get me a first workbench yet. Can I make such a table as yours without a jointer and a plainer? Thank you very much for all your videos

[@woodwhisperer]

I honestly don't even know the brand. Picked it up at Home Depot. I'll have to check on the brand next time I'm in the shop.

[@cybercapri]

Great work surface. It might not be a bad idea to make holes in the Base Unit to allow for Band or Strap Clamps to hold things down while not putting any twist to the flat surface box. That way you might get away with less over all clamps on some projects... Just a thought...

[@woodwhisperer]

@djchasper3 Well you need a place to work, but until you establish your tastes and work methods, a full-on workbench isn't really necessary. A nice large flat surface and some clamps will get you where you need to be. Then when you know what type of woodworking you plan on doing, you can build a nice bench to suit your needs. But there is a ton of info available on the web these days. Just a Google search away.

[@Coolboater1]

Hey Mark. I followed your guidelines, but instead of sawhorses, I used an existing table bottom, and levelled out 4 2x4's on the jointer and planer, and using the Lee valley calibrated straight edge, I levelled these in both directions, and hot melt glued them to the base. After assembling the egg crate interior. I glued the bottom 1/2" mdf, flipped it over and edge screwed the other skin with #5 flat screws. The table is 7' X 4'. When I tested the levelness, along the length , with the 4' straight edge, it was 0.045 thou lower in the middle than the ends of the straight edge, which, were of course, 1.5' from the table ends. Using straight 1.5" (2 pieces of 3/4" med glued together) mdf, 7' long, from my flattening rig, it will be out a bit more. Is this " flat" adequate, or should I start again. Should it be better than this? I'm thinking "yes". I cut all the dividers at once on the same table saw setup.

[@woodwhisperer]

lol, well, my step dad is only in there for a few minutes at a time. I have to be in there all day long. But he should have still worn a respirator or dust mask. :) And this is actually an older video. The Makita came before the Kapex.

[@woodwhisperer]

@djchasper3 This is a hard question to answer without knowing you, your tastes, your budget, and your shop space. I have a few articles on my site about tool purchases if you want to stop by and take a look.

[@woodwhisperer]

Well if you can find a Rubio's, you want to order the Fish Taco Especial! AWESOME!

[@ericfriedman5237]

When replacing the hardboard how do you flush trim the new surface if it has to fit inside the oak?

[@HarrisonFord11]

I love how the step dad didn’t have even a cloth mask when cutting the MDF. But the WW looked like he was going into clean Chernobyl.

[@danno1111]

I'd also recommend adding the hardwood top after adding the oak strips, and trimming it flush to the oak... then you know the entire top is flat, and you can easily replace the surface with another material after it gets banged up.. as it is, you're limited to using a material exactly the same thickness, and you can't do anything about the edges if they're no longer flat.

[@raybieze]

I like your twinkie shirt. And the video is great too. Thanks.

[@stephenwallace9658]

*Very* late question to this video that I hope you will be able to see and answer. My 14 year old son wants to start woodworking, and I thought that building a proper assembly table to replace my old, warped table would be a great first project. The question is whether or not this type of table can be made to host both a tail vise and face vise. Do you have any ideas or tips?

[@Mrdubomb]

Do you have a build video on that sweet clamp rack in the background?

[@dennisafowler]

I wonder if my table saw top would be a good reference surface to start with rather than two saw horses?

[@noraajagger4239]

wood working starts at 5:30 soul patch continues

[@redscortgt93]

Now that’s some dust collection on the router! Lol

[@hhamilton6391]

great video. What is the level of tolerance you're going for? Nothing is perfect, and i don't know how flat is dead flat? if your table was a 1/8" out over 4' would it worry you? 1/32? less? Thanks.

[@HansVledder]

@TheWoodWhisperer Thank you very much Marc. Grid was the word I was looking for. I can see why you can't tell when reducing the overall thickness starts to be a problem, it's simply a matter of trying. I love robust, chuncky furniture anyway, so why make a skinny assembly table. Thanks again, and I am dying for the next episode of the Trestle Table project to the extent that I am chewing on my left shoe currently, just to kill time. Awful flavour I can tell you ... Regards, Hans

[@woodwhisperer]

Heavy heavy my friend. There are several sheets of mdf tied up in that gridwork, so it is a lot heavier than it looks. I have heard of people using ultralight mdf, which can help. If its on a wheeled base, you can move it. But on its own, probably not a one-man job.

[@RgTrace]

Excellent video as usual, but this one seemed a little rushed compared to the others.

[@mightywombat]

Marc, I'm wondering if you would get the same degree of rigidity if you stagger your short crosspieces, so instead of a proper grid you would get a grid where each row was offset by maybe 50%. Thoughts?

[@torgy]

This was very helpful for me since I'm planing on making one myself soon. But i was thinking of off-setting the inner grid by one inch, or the width of the grid boards. So i wouldn't have to toe-nail the boards, but I would be nailing straight into the boards. Do you think that it will effect the over all strength Torsion Box?

[@gspotr69]

I have a question... instead of cutting all those short dividers, could you gang the pieces together and use a radial arm saw with a dado blade to cut (not sure what they are really called, but I'm going to call them "Vertical Half Lap") joints to make the grid?

[@altavistasfo]

excellent techniques and idea. what model is the Matika saw are you using in this video? i like it, it looks very flexible when maneuvering.

[@woodwhisperer]

In general, any solid wood is bad. You want something that isn't likely to move so any man-made sheetgood is probably ok.

[@victorsacramento5994]

Congratulations, beautiful work. What is the name of the wood that you have used?

[@daninil1]

Hi again, Mark. Yes, I'm new to wood working and I have never had fish tacos. What should I try first :-)

[@synapse131]

Can I assume you mean that you did slots in the pieces that were perpendicular to each other and fitted them over each other? If so, it would make sense that it wouldn't work since you are making each piece of MDF thinner (in the vertical plane) at all the places where the slots were; which would allow them to bend (even with the opposing piece of MDF in between, enough space would taken out to allow sag.) Better to keep structural integrity and just glue and nail whole pieces together.

[@panamafred1]

Don't tell anyone because it is embarrassing, but about twelve years ago I built a 4x8 foot torsion box assembly table. Construction was MDF skins and a pine grid. I put a sheet of plastic laminate on the top. I built it in the high desert of Colorado where the humidity is nil. It was a joy to use as it was dead flat. A couple years later I moved to the mountains of Panama and brought the table with me. Now, with the high humidity here, and the table's inability to evenly acclimate due to the laminate on only one side, the table is unusable for anything beyond opening paint cans on. I guess if I wanted to build something with a big crown in the middle, then this is the table. I'm about to scrap the thing and make a new bench.

[@kodigoins4185]

Mark, look out. At 2:46 a ghost opened up your cabinet door to show you a sign. We didn't see you move, so we know it's the ghost of Milled wood past.

[@variator05]

Would there be a difference between MDF, plywood or 1x4's for the inner frame? You used 3/4 MDF for the long pieces and 1/2 MDF for the short pieces. Could you have used 3/4 for the entirety for extra strength?

[@TheDeltaFlight]

hey Marc, how sturdy would just 2 layers of 3/4 inch ply wood glued together be? I will probably make a frame out of 2x4 and legs out of 4x4's. Would this be sturdy enough for an all-around work bench?

[@jeffeverde1]

So, 5 years down the road, does it still have an undrilled top? Or have you turned it into a giant MFT?

[@PaulSnowy]

For your first coat of finish, you mixed it with mineral spirits, but in later coats you used it without mixing. Why do you dilute/mix the first coat ? Does the mineral spirits help the polyurethane be absorbed by the wood/mdf ?

[@muskokamike127]

Paul Snow makes for a smooth(er) base coat...... If I build a top like this I'd spray varathane diamond coat gloss floor finish...it would be bullet proof when done.

[@woodwhisperer]

Yeah it is definitely better for a standard bench. Although Rubio is only good for fish tacos. :)

[@joeaccordion]

Excellent table top but a 3/4" edge that is about 3 inches wide would have allowed clamping work down without reducing its torsion property.

[@HansVledder]

Marc, I have two questions about this torsion box assembly table. Is there a particular reason why you didn't construct the 'matrix' inside from interlocking lengths of MDF, and does the overall thickness of the table top make any difference to the stability of the table? TIA, Hans The Netherlands

[@daninil1]

Hi Mark. I have a lot of scrap wood left over from refurbushing my house. All of it is hardwood (mostly pine). Can I safely use this for a small torsion box table? Planning on a three by six foot tsble. Thanks.

[@woodwhisperer]

Screws through the stretchers.

[@1873Winchester]

How stable would a torsion box be without skin on one side? Not building a table, but a small router table top using 3/4" mdf for the top, figured if I could use something like this in the construction to stiffen up the MDF and keep it flat, but it should be open on the bottom, at least where the router needs to go.

[@BoranTheki]

Good question. I'm planning a 4' x 8' mft/3-style work top with a grid of 20mm holes 96mm on center. Because I'll be cutting on top it and the fact that the dust extractor doesn't get everything I'd like to have the top sheet loose. I'll be able to easily and quickly clean inside the box from time to time or if I drop something through one of the holes I can just lift the top and retrieve it.

[@malecalicam]

I built my workbench very similar to this and am currently remodeling my workshop which means new bench to fit new space. What would be a good price to sell a used one of these at?

[@AmerijamAcres]

Every work bench or table in my shop has a hardboard top held in place with hardwood molding side pieces. I build them so the hardboard just slides in without glue or screws. When built properly the top will sit comfortably without the need for fasteners. Really makes it nice when the top gets messy. Just cut a new top and drop it in. Easy!

[@muskokamike127]

Amerijam Acres if you used melamine (specially MDF melamine) the top would be infinitely more durable and any glue would just flake off.....only issue is anything sitting on the top would slide around a lot lol.....toss a pair of pliers or ?? onto it and it would probably slide off the other end hahaha I had a mel top bench in my other shop and my cat would chase things around the top, usually ending up on the floor under the bench haha....

[@AmerijamAcres]

That would be better a solution but what do you do if you damage the melamine? Now you have a lot of work and expense to replace it. Using hardboard is nice because it is easy to replace and cheap as well. Personally, I find it so much easier. I find the hardboard surprisingly durable. Especially when put on a properly supported bench top. I have used melamine for a router table top before. It worked well for that also.

[@muskokamike127]

Amerijam Acres melamine is available in sheets as thin as a piece of veneer, up to 1" thick particle board. It would last longer than hardboard (because it is basically indestructible) so the cost outweighs the durability factor..... As for removing it, it wouldn't be held in any different than your hardboard. Unless you're drilling into it, you might never have to replace it.....

[@AmerijamAcres]

The melamine I've seen is either 3/4 inch or like a Formica. Maybe it is a viable option. I haven't seen a more useful alternative over hardboard. Not to say this won't work.

[@muskokamike127]

Amerijam Acres that's a stock size at home desparate....if you look, many of the larger stores carry it also in 5/8 and some even in 3/8". If you go to better lumber yards, or sheet goods suppliers, you can get it in all thickness and sizes. Did you know you can buy it pre-edge taped? in 4 x 8 4 x 10 4 x 12? Also 5 x 10 and 5 x 12? Many places will also cut it to a particular size for you.....I know one place that ordered lifts of 3/4", one edge taped, ripped to 22"...for kitchen cabinet carcasses.....

[@bobhilton9751]

Why did you attach the mdf top to the grid with screws (starting at 16:01)? Will wood screws hold well into the edge of mdf?

[@BoranTheki]

In my opinion if you drill the proper size pilot hole it'll hold and not split.

[@metals2546]

What would you recommend for a steel cutting saw, I am currently researching saws such as evolution rage 3 or 4, or possibly the makita.

[@daddywoofdawg]

so why did you tear the old one up instead of putting it out on the curb?I sure it would of disapeared in a couple hours

[@filmfreak988]

I'm guessing that he re-used much of the material.

[@CogentConsult]

You probably should’ve left those screw holes “unplugged,” because that way you could’ve easily removed those side boards when you want to install a new hardboard top.

[@Nubster12]

Would there be any benefit to using larger stock to make the grid? I know price would increase, but what about using milled 2x4's? Overkill?

[@jeffreymiller1822]

Is there a reason you wouldn't put dadoes to help keep everything square?

[@ignaciopereda9911]

I have a question, if I want to make a smaller torsion box, can I make cleats less width? and still getting a strong enough surface? a flatter than the one I have.

[@colejohnson1960]

And how exactly does one easily replace the top once it's beat up? Please, this is why I watched the video but I just don't see the answer.

[@seigeengine]

Okay, question here. I've been trying to understand the concerns of wood movement. Wouldn't the oak on the edges expand/contract, and quickly cease to be flush with the surface? Is this not a concern because Arizona, or?

[@muskokamike127]

seigeengine I am surprised too he used solid oak along the edges...expansion and contraction WOULD cause the top to move.....or the sides would split if they are that well secured to the box.... Even in Arizona, unless the relative humidity is 100% constant, wood movement will occur. Whenever the moisture content of wood changes, the wood grows and contracts. if you wanted it to be pretty, and solid, you could just add a 1/4" thick piece(s) along the perimeter, that way movement will be almost imperceptable.....

[@p39483]

Why is your MDF light colored like particle board? My MDF is dark, very heavy, and made of fine fiberous dust. A long time ago I built speaker boxes from a product marketed as MDF that looked like your MDF. But now that I look at it, it looks like what's sold as particle board.