1931 National Duolian - Guitar Stories - The Washboard Resonators

[@TheWashboardResonators]

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[@KBRblues]

Do not get rid of that guitar it's amazing ;((((((

[@TheWashboardResonators]

It was never meant to happen but Covid has meant the ability to stockpile old instruments has to take a backseat. The Gibson is spectacular and technically this was the last in so has to be first out. Pretty certain it’ll get bought back when tunes are good again!

[@heymrguitarman7637]

Man I'd love a nice duolian to go with my NRP tricone

[@TheWashboardResonators]

We’ll there’s only one thing for it… better get one bought! 🎯🎯🎯

[@MrDotneck]

Hi Martin. Recently discovered your channel and have been watching and enjoying your videos. Regarding the vintage of your Duolian: wouldn't the coverplate (ribs) point to a later production date? AFAIK the ribbed coverplate wasn't produced prior to 1932. So either your guitar is a later one or the coverplate has been replaced at some point (its finish looks a bit different from the body in the video anyway...) Cheers and keep up the good work - looking forward to more clips of yours. Tom

[@TheWashboardResonators]

Hello! It was absolutely verified as an original 1931 directly be the world expert. Apparently the ribs came earlier on Duolians. I suspected a similar thing upon getting it home but was it was fully explained to me why it was correct and 1931 is the year. I believe there is dated photographic evidence from 1931 of players with ribbed plates on this model.

[@MrDotneck]

@@TheWashboardResonators Interesting info there. Thanks for your reply - much appreciated. I have been fascinated by Resonator guitars - especially National models - since my mid to late teens. I don't have any vintage ones but enjoy my reproductions. Cheers.

[@bchill69]

Hello, I don't know who else to ask this question about resonators. Do you have any knowledge or opinions on compensating the the (biscuit) bridge on a singke cone resonator (tuned in open G or D)?? The "luthiers" in my area have refused to answer the question??!!

[@TheWashboardResonators]

NRP produce a compensated product that is plastic. I’ve heard mixed reports in terms of tone so don’t have an opinion on that product. I’ve also heard of people sticking extra wood towards the bridge behind the 2nd string and then cutting the slot to be compensated. My own take is that I’ve had my guitars set up by Steve at a company called Beltona. He’s worked for Mark Knopfler and built guitars for Eric Clapton. We don’t compensate on mine. They play and sound great. My NRP Style 0 that I gig gets a capo at fret 9 on one song and plays perfectly fine. Do I perhaps do the odd microtune on the odd string? Sometimes. But every fretted instrument is out of tune technically due to the ‘tempered scale’ and overtone series so it’s down to what’s acceptable and how perfect or not ones relative pitch is. I let an expert set up my guitars and we kept the traditional fittings but tuned in as good as possible. The National guitars set up this way are probably 95% as good as my fully compensated and expertly setup Martin. Seems counter intuitive if you’re a gear nerd and it caused me years of wonder until this particular luthier worked on my guitars and showed that ‘good enough’ is indeed good enough. Especially in regards tunings like G & D where a slide will be used and the era of the 1930s music that these are linked with is often rough and ready. Just one persons take. Another player will want compensation, fanned frets and if so that’s happy days for them. One of the key things I’ve learned is that people try loads of modifications on the bridges and the traditional use of cheap box wood gives the best sound. I’ve seen maple, bone, compensated etc and you may get clarity but loose volume. If you’re not getting the intonation quality you need then try a decent set up with an expert resonator luthier. Marc Shoenbugher in the US, Steve Evans or Dave King in the UK and Mike Lewis in Europe.

[@bchill69]

@@TheWashboardResonators thanks for your detailed reply. I have a cheap mahogany reso (biscuit) that I use in G and a Republic steel (biscuit) that I use in D. Both sound good to me sound-wise, but the Republic has a a neck bow that can't be fixed without a neck reset. It is "out of tune" in I/IV/V situation fretting-wise. I don't play slide much but I often compose (fretted) tunes in open G and D, which is why I feel frustrated by the standard responses that assume that the slide does the "correction". (I'm "poor" and live near boston usa btw).

[@CezannieMelchor]

Where’s that 1931 Duolian resonator now?

[@TheWashboardResonators]

A chap in London has it. He loves it. It’s probably the best resonator I’ve owned although I know of others I’ll be buying that are great. 🎯

[@banjoplayingbison2275]

What exactly are the differences between Duolians and Triolians?

[@TheWashboardResonators]

The Triolian was technically more expensive as it has a thicker steel body, neck binding and a maple neck which was seen as more exotic and expensive wood. Triolians came in walnut burst or polychrome finish. The Duolian was thinner steel, no binding and a mahogany neck which was very common and relatively cheap wood then. In reality now when we look back these features make Duolians actually sound ‘better.’ The dueco finish that Duolians have is found to be pretty desire-able to most National collectors too. The grey / green / gold is pretty understated until you get close and see the crystalline nature of it.

[@photohum]

The Gibson guitar in the Robert Johnson pic was only a prop for the photo. He used another guitar

[@TheWashboardResonators]

We know he used a Kalamazoo KG14 from the other pics for sure. Johnny Shines said he used all kinds including Stella’s, Kalamazoo’s, etc. If he did or didn’t this particular L-1 is an incredible one that any guitar player would want to hand! It sounds so good.