1972 Toyota Corolla: Undercarriage Welding

[@alastairwatson3201]

Having a go. That’s what it’s all about, isn’t it? You’re doing, learning and improving. Brilliant! Glad to see you back on screen.

[@sansberlin]

Thanks man, thats really what it's all about. Never let inexperience stop you from trying

[@xcesarxramosx]

I’ll always remember my high school welding teacher saying “it should sound like you’re frying an egg”. You’re doing better than what I’ve seen from most shops 👍🏻

[@sansberlin]

Huge compliment, thanks man! Lots of love

[@marvinschrader4234]

couple of notes from me: - you should really have coated the inside of the new welded pieces with some kind of weld throuh zinc primer to protect it from the inside out - you can do rounded corners instead of live 90 degree ones, it will help with blow through in those places. it is more time consuming to do though - just put the guard back on in the grinder, you're cuting flat straight lines, no need for the extra risk

[@sansberlin]

Thanks for the input I really appreciate it! Keep hearing about this weld thru primer, what is it, and how can I use it? Rounding corners seems like it would be harder to fit a new piece in the exact spot, whats the best way to cut that?

[@marvinschrader4234]

@@sansberlin weld thru primer is a zinc based paint that is usually used on the underside of a soon-to-be welded piece (like at 22:05) to protect the inside of the cavity from corrosion (also overlaping faces), since there wont be any acess to protect it afterwards. It's called weld thru because the paint is not afected by the heat generated by the weld nor it will contaminate it, you should protect acessible surfaces with it after welding, not before. regarding the rounded corners it is way more work, you're right. it's more of a last resort measure since corners are more prone to blow through. you can use and air saw or a nibbler, but it's not always possible. keep up your solid work, good channel.

[@jimcabezola3051]

If you weld your car half as well as you film and edit the process, you will have some of the most outstanding educational content AND an outstanding car restoration to boot. Your videos are simply enthralling. Aloha.

[@sansberlin]

Love this comment, thanks man, I really appreciate the love. Aloha!

[@thelittlegremlin6859]

I'm surprised you can find the time for this while also being an architect Very nicely done👍

[@sansberlin]

I cant find the time haha weekend warrior when I can

[@thelittlegremlin6859]

​@@sansberlinHaha good luck man, don't forget you might need to put some paint on the bare metal for rust protection. I saw some people recommending rustoleum somewhere on the internet.

[@sansberlin]

For sure, this weekend and the next i'm going to put down some metal prep (maybe phosphoric acid) priming and painting. Still some research to do to find the right products@@thelittlegremlin6859

[@thelittlegremlin6859]

@@sansberlin awesome 👌🏼

[@mattn6368]

Great work Joel, for a first time welder you've definitely gone in at the deep end and you're achieving what you set out to, which is getting new metal in place of rust. Everyone starts somewhere and I have to commend you for taking on such a big project right out of the gate. My first vehicle restoration had all of the welding work outsourced because I couldn't weld back then. I hate to say this now when it's too late, but my only piece of advice would have been to paint internal cavities with epoxy paint and the back of your patches with weldable primer when you had the chance. You should check out "Soup Classic Motoring" if you haven't heard of him already. George is one of the people most responsible for me buying a welder and having a go at patches and repairs myself rather than paying someone else to do it all the time.

[@sansberlin]

Will check them out and thank you for the advice! I was inside the car the other day and am thinking because of the fire im going to have to peel the carpet away anyways, so i might as well get in there and clean it up. Appreciate the support, thanks man

[@TechWithBruno]

Joel, it's truly inspiring to watch your journey on this 1972 Toyota Corolla restoration project. Your dedication to learning and improving your welding skills is commendable. You're not just fixing a car; you're creating an incredible learning experience for yourself and your viewers. Keep up the great work, and I can't wait to see the final result. Your videos are informative and entertaining. Kudos to you for taking on such a big project and sharing it with us!

[@sansberlin]

Bruno, thanks for taking the time to write this, I always appreciate people that understand what it takes to put yourself out there and make videos, as you're a creator yourself. The best I can do is show other people you dont need to be an expert to try these project. Thanks man!

[@HanKamiBeats]

Quick tip. Use the gas to your advantage. When the tacs are cooling down or you're finishing a bead, hold the torch over the end and let the gas to just cover the final swirl. This helps with preventing oxidation and the pinhole that forms when you don't :)

[@sansberlin]

Ahhh never heard about this, I’ll give it a try, thanks for the info

[@FrankTaveras]

I don't see myself doing this but I do have a 1976 Corolla I'll be getting restored so watching these videos gives me a lot of insight into these models. Thanks.

[@sansberlin]

You should try a couple things out on your own for the fun of it, even post about it for those that have a 76, helps out the corolla community!

[@FrankTaveras]

@@sansberlin I am thinking about recording the process though. Lets see.

[@carlovillegas]

I'm so glad I found this playlist because I'm actually planning on buying a corolla that's been sitting for a year in the neighborhood from some guy to bring back to life

[@VeyronBD]

You did really well for a first timer frankly, the first welding I did looked just awful lol. Also the best thing to use for templates is frozen food boxes, thin card but still more rigid than just paper, oh, and some tin snips would help you with cutting small bits of metal without the hassle of the grinder.

[@sansberlin]

haha thanks man that means a lot, and good recommendation, i'll check out the snips and thinner card stock

[@gabrielsoaressellin6764]

I've been watching your journey since the beggining and I just love your way of working, thinking, figuring things out and sharing it with us. Your videos are so calm and down to earth (even on moments of despair) it really sets you apart from other creators with similar content. So all in all, keep the good work. 😁👍 PS.: Since you can't work on the car too often, remember to also apply a protective coat on those welds as soon as possible as they are prone to rusting.

[@sansberlin]

This really means a lot, thanks for sharing it! It’s all about the journey and learning along the way. The car will be undercoated soon, shouldn’t be a lengthy processes

[@StanleyKubick1]

you know you have the settings right when you hear an aggressive bacon sizzle. you don't want sputtering. stoked for this progress.

[@sansberlin]

Thanks man, ya I started hearing a lot more bacon sizzle by the end after tweaking settings

[@trevormcculloch5011]

Been a while. Glad to see this project is still coming along. As someone who has watched a lot of welding videos too, your commentary was very insightful. Thanks and keep it up

[@sansberlin]

Thanks man, really appreciate it

[@chesmari]

Well done Joel!!! It's just a big puzzle. Keep going!!!

[@sansberlin]

A puzzle i hope to drive in the end, painting soon, thanks man! Hopefully going to be half as clean as your 75'

[@NeoFromTheMatrix2399]

The coat made the ultimate sacrifice for the wellbeing of the toyota. Great work bruh, been loving this!

[@sansberlin]

The ultimate sacrifice, it'll be raised high for all to see....or maybe I can find someone to re line the inside! Thanks man, appreciate it

[@enriquelopez9124]

The main thing is you are determined to do it, you are having fun.while doing it, and while you do it , you learn and can make better welds.

[@sansberlin]

That's exactly it, everyone has to start somewhere

[@tonymunn]

My 1973 Corolla floor looks the same. I too started welding on that car. I had the exact same issues. I hac a CO2 fire estiguisher handy and used it quite a few times.

[@sansberlin]

Its what I get for cutting corners on not removing the carpet. live and learn

[@e30_318is_project]

Nice project you have going on. I'm at this stage of learning to weld too on my e30 project. Being able to have the car on its side makes this so much easier. I'm on the ground underneath cleaning the underside and welding patches ☠️ definitely gonna follow your project! Greetings from the Netherlands ✌️

[@sansberlin]

I couldnt image doing it upside down, I feel like there would be a lot more burns! Good luck with the project man, you should make some vids! Cheers from Canada

[@ReasonablySkeptic]

It's nice seeing a video where the person is not just a pro from the get go. I would recommend sanding those welds a little more and they'll look perfect.

[@sansberlin]

Thanks man, appreciate the support. Its all about the journey

[@Mario12342010]

oh man was waiting for this one, welding is hard its awesome you gave it a go

[@sansberlin]

Thanks man, was a ton of fun, hopefully going to get better at it

[@markuspedersen2437]

What a guy! Really an inspirational series of video.

[@tworobots]

props for Cardboard Aided Design 😁👍

[@sansberlin]

Duct tapes younger brother

[@BarneyBuilds]

Hey mate, I've been following your videos since day one with the Corolla, and I've been hanging out for each video. Really impressed with your unwavering patience towards the project, Especially as someone who's just started welding. Your journey is a testament to what can be achieved with hard work and a can-do spirit. It's inspiring to see someone take on such a challenging project and make it look fun and achievable. I also have a channel where I'm working on an old Hilux. Keep up the fantastic work. Cant wait to see the end result. Cheers to the love of cars and craftsmanship!

[@sansberlin]

Here since ground zero, I really appreciate it! I was watching a small documentary round table with a few comedians, and I think Jerry Seinfeld said something along the lines of "I did'nt want money or fame, I just wanted to be one of those guys". For me its the same, I like old things, I want to use them, I want to be competent in fixing them. This is all the journey, and i'm happy to document my progress of becoming "one of those guys" that can fix an old car and hopefully drive it daily. Love the old Hilux's, good luck with your project!

[@jrex9052]

You're doing great! Looking forward to seeing more of the series!

[@sansberlin]

Thanks man!

[@bloodreighn]

Yeah, you are definitly learning haha, Ive been there, the biggest help is watching Fitzee fabrications videos, its a massive help from setting up the welder to making panels to suit, also, first thing i EVER learned is, NEVER cut all the rust off the car in one go, the second is, cut about half an inch to 3/4 of an inch further back than the edge of the rust, the metal will weld so much better there

[@bloodreighn]

also, hearing the weld, alot of the time your wire speed is too slow the wire is playing catch up, you might end up getting the wire stuck in the contact tip

[@jonagius]

You did a great job!, Many people end up getting burned out and stop when they have a too much rust, Sometimes it takes a whole day on a small patch lol

[@sansberlin]

This task definitely took the longest time. If the pro’s make it look perfect taking a day for one patch, maybe I should too! Haha

[@thatsonebadhatharry8610]

Your remodeling is coming along quite well, as is the Toyota.

[@sansberlin]

the kitchen will come soon

[@thatsonebadhatharry8610]

@@sansberlin I tried remodeling my garage 15 years ago. Completely tore down a 87 S10. Sandblasted and painted the frame, modified the the fire wall to move the steering column, made engine mounts fot the 350 small block, modified the transmission mount shortened the drive shaft. Primered the bed, cab, hood and fenders. Then life happened and now I can barely walk around it. Or any where else in the garage for that matter. Keep up the good work but don't forget to go to church Sunday morning. John 3:16 For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son so that who so ever believes in Him shall not parish but have eternal life.

[@ranss]

Hard work for you; easy watching for me 😌 Thanks, man.

[@sansberlin]

Appreciate it!

[@benheynen2705]

Going well but it would be great to have a mate who has done this to get you started on this. The last patch you did you welded to a screwed on previous repair. Please remove that patch and fix whatever hellscape it's covering up and fix it all together. You can also see there have been lots of older repairs with bronze weld so please take a look at them in case they need fixing properly too. Hate to do all this work and do it again in a couple of years.

[@sansberlin]

The car isnt perfect, and it never will be, so I understand your concerns about the work done on here previously. Everything's holding for now, and im doing it at the best of my abilities, thats all I can ask for at the moment. Unfortunately no mates that work around cars, a mentor would be much appreciated, but youtube comments have taught me so much hahaa

[@benheynen2705]

@@sansberlin oh the car is cool and in solid enough condition for a daily driver but if you have the chance to remove old and badly done repairs while doing a better job please take it. I assumed that you thought the screwed on panel was factory as you welded to it. Please cut that edge, remove the screws and fix whatever is lurking. A screwed on panel covering rust will give you a much bigger problem later on because it's just covering the problem.

[@PaulHarrison-xe6zb]

I remember my first attempts at welding at a 72 corolla. Amazingly, armed with a 110v CanTire flux core welder and nothing else some of those welds and patches still live on 20plus years later. it gets much easier as you go. keep it up!

[@jdmfreak22]

So glad to see another video. YT car channels are really lacking good content and no BS

[@sansberlin]

Dude, thanks so much, that's a great compliment

[@justin42230]

im always genuinely happy to see you videos i fell in love with old corollas every since i got a AE101

[@sansberlin]

man that made my day, lot of love for all the corollas

[@justin42230]

When you blow up remember I was one of the first big fans of yours

[@rickynyhoff]

Well done man. Inspiring how you dive in.

[@sansberlin]

thanks for the love man, trying my best

[@lightning8253]

yesssssssssssssssssss i have waited for a new video for monthsssssss

[@sansberlin]

haha sometimes i need to go on vacation! next video wont be as long

[@caltan4630]

you are living a dream dude, awesome project, keep it up !!!! love your videos

[@sansberlin]

means a lot man, appreciate it!

[@ekabayususilo7345]

Love your work, awesome job. I hope I can see the final result

[@krunkystardust2846]

Hello Joel! I bought my first project car at the beginning of the summer. Im also a complete newbie with everything, and I love watching your videos because they give me the confidence to keep moving forward! One important piece of advice about welding I have is; wear protective clothing. The light from the welding arc contains enough UV to sunburn your skin, and increases your risk of melanoma. Be sure to wear a light cotton long sleeve shirt while you're welding, and good luck with everything!

[@sansberlin]

I actually only heard about the UV from the comment section! I did however quickly cover my arms, as I was getting hot metal all over them, so for the most part they were covered. Good luck with the project, inspiring newbie's is what this is all about, if I can do it anyone can!

[@yoqueriasermecanico]

mate, pretty good job here !, keep going, welding is a lot of fun. If you don't mind, when you have some curved shapes, as the second piece you welded, you can weld the first two corners with some welding spots or dots, and as you keep going, you can hammer it so it gets the shape by itself. Also, it is better to not cut the metal when it is a complicated shape so you can have it as a template, once you have the template, put it over and cut. that is what works better for me, hopefully it will work for you. Regards !!

[@sansberlin]

That sounds like a much better option, adjusting the hole to your template. Thanks man!

[@EliseiDesign]

Great work! For an easier and better weld, clean the panels to the metal where you weld, both sides if possible! Also, when accessible use some rust convertor on the rust(inside rails etc.), and don't leave bare metal unpainted inside rails, cavities(use some epoxy or zinc, copper can paint) .

[@sansberlin]

Thanks man! Yes, I'm going to find one of those spray cans with the tube attachment to coat the inside.

[@01FozzyS]

Thanks for the update,Joel. Well done tackling the fabrication job. I probably would have lost my patience halfway .lol

[@sansberlin]

I don't think I lost patience, but lost momentum. If things don't get finished fast enough, you dread doing them week after week.

[@alleybuilds5370]

i weld 1970's Japanese cars all the time, here are a couple helpful tips. leave yourself a little bigger gap on the new piece of metal and the old car. second only tack never hold the trigger more than a second or two. and last have compressed air near you to spray it and cool it down that way it does not warp.

[@sansberlin]

Thanks for the advice, why the bigger gap?

[@alleybuilds5370]

@@sansberlin not a huge gap, just a little bigger then you have. the gap allows you to connect the two together. a lot of your welds the pieces are so close that you are welding on top. that will connect the two but not the best. people will use like little 1/16 " tabs to gap it and holt them in place when welding.

[@sansberlin]

@@alleybuilds5370 makes sense

[@StarlitStreets]

It looks amazing and will only get better from here.

[@rhesaramadhan8474]

I am planning to build a 1980s Toyota Corolla, and I'm so glad to have found this channel! You earned an instant sub from me :D

[@garymallard4699]

Keep a spray bottle of water beside you....the paint or seam sealer or anything flammable can ignite and smolder or flame as you weld....a air gun also can put out a fire and cool your weld area ....any water can be blown out or will dry up... fire extinguisher are a Last Resort only....

[@itsaboutfam]

Nice job man. Welding is something I want to learn myself. I'm looking to invest in one next year.

[@sansberlin]

Thanks man, it was quite the process. If you're going to make the investment, from what I had researched, go for the gas instead of flux, its a lot cleaner.

[@itsaboutfam]

@@sansberlin Yes..I agree.

[@dipstickmotorsports]

Props for taking on such a big project to learn welding with!

[@abnpthfdr2934]

Good job! The satisfaction that each part of the process was done with your own hands is immeasurable!!!

[@martonoz3585]

It`s going real nicely, the next project will be even better. Keep up the good work

[@sansberlin]

Thats the plan, one day.....1972 Skyline.

[@SkaterStimm]

So the welding wire you got is 0.035 which is too large for that sheet metal repair, and you don't want to use the welder's recommended settings because you are not laying beads, you are stitch welding. In stitch welding you want high heat (much much higher than you think) and thin wire. We all start somewhere so good job!

[@sansberlin]

Great advice thanks!

[@SkaterStimm]

​@@sansberlin Great work, just keep up the momentum!

[@PC-fo8ld]

A tip as you go mate! Get rust converter and sealer on any surfaces you reveal cutting out the old stuff. Just an extra layer of protection

[@sansberlin]

Thank you sir, will do, going to be getting a coating on very soon

[@marfatulhossain9829]

love what you are doing!

[@sansberlin]

Thanks man

[@iscariotproject]

its fun to watch someone who doesnt know everything from the get go...feels more relatable,maybe keep a fire extinguisher closeby

[@sansberlin]

The fire extinguisher was at the other side of the warehouse! I started running to it, looked back, and the fire was getting so big, so the jacket was sacrificed. Lots to learn, and hope everyone can relate, thanks!

[@RW_volky]

omfg , an hour ago i was wondering , hmmm its been 2 months since last joel's video ! thx

[@sansberlin]

Im back, these things take time! and I was on vacation haha

[@TheMetallicafan88]

Good on you learning how to do all this your self instead if paying someone to do it! You will appreciate the car much more in the end. I'm restoring a 69 Corolla KE10 over here in NS. The rust on mine is very bad, like the car was breaking in half bad but I am also learning a lot!

[@sansberlin]

those 69's look so classy, best of luck! Its all about learning a lot and becoming a little more competent to spread to other parts of your life, not just car building

[@jamesdino3960]

Finally! An upload! 😍 Kudos sir! 🙏

[@sansberlin]

Thank you sir!

[@VisionCityMayor]

i've never learnt how to weld/fabricate myself, so watching you go through the learning process has given me a little more confidence to take it on one day! also ur background music choice for restoration is quite based imo lol

[@sansberlin]

hahaha thanks man, good music keeps the spirit high when I dont understand a thing im doing. If I can do it so can you, thats what this experiment is all about!

[@Ruben-sd4lj]

New subscriber I’m in the process of learning more about welding and car fabrication .

[@colbysmith1398]

Good video and good job on the car. I like the body stand/ roller

[@Saul1337Ftw]

You're doing great Joel, sure some welds made me laugh a little but we've all been there. I really like that you have a good sense of humor about it, and that you're learning and improving as you get further into the project. It's refreshing to see you experience all of this and being so open about it, you can just show us the perfect attempts but you choose to show us the entire process which I really appreciate. I don't like paying every month for something, but highly considering becoming a part of your patreon. Keep it up!

[@sansberlin]

I just want to be real with everyone. We've all started skills that our peers usually have strong opinions about, and it hinders us from trying. This way someone needing confidence wanting to start restoring their car with no experience can say - "well if that's the entry standard, I can do it". Its all about learning new things. I'm torn on the patreon, I want a place to post my day to day work, but also fund this project further. Perhaps I can make a $1 teir for those that want to join the decision making, i'll work it out.

[@Saul1337Ftw]

@@sansberlin For sure! you can't learn to weld in a normal work setting without some guys mocking you and demotivating you without giving any real advice. You're keep it real for sure, I think you'll inspire people to try things out for themselves. No super fancy expensive YT workshops but just an airnet on press boards and a whole lot of dedication. I didn't mean it like that, but it's an option yeah. I just have a very personal bias against paying monthly for things hahaha, so you making me want to join your patreon shows that I'm super invested in this series already. I've been looking for this exact car near me, it's growing so much on my that I'd love to see if I can get my hands on one eventually(???) Plus if I ever would want to do work on it, then I'd have a great series to see how not to :P

[@DericO-rz3be]

Awesome series Joel!... You may have watched some early episodes of Project Binky... A real basket of rust repair....🙂

[@Cat-Privilege]

Don't forget to have a fire extinguisher close at hand. They are much more effective than thrift store jackets. Cool video though, thanks for documenting your project and sharing. Best of luck.

[@erice5429]

Nice job.. You are doing a great job. Cool....

[@garymallard4699]

Buy the Princess Auto Sheetmetal Brake when it is on Sale...the 36" one....on a Stand...I bought mine 25 years ago and even after getting a Bigger 8 ft model and a 48" Box & Pan / Finger brake ..i still use it lots....it can do 16 guage metal too.... a brake that actually is designed for sheetmetal work is alot easier to do bends than a Bench Vice or Shop Press add on...( they work too but i learned on a 10 ft brake in 1991 and also a 4 ft Finger brake too.)... plus once you outgrow your panels a tiny brake is useless...lol...

[@sansberlin]

All these comments are golden, thank you for all your insight and experience, will be following a lot of your notes and critiques. Appreciate you sharing!

[@HarlesGarage]

Great video Joel , Im in the same progress with my 1982 BMW 320i and I have a far way to go but have seen positive progress the more I do it. Working on old sheet metal is extremely difficult. My car was $400 so I figure it's a good car to learn on and make mistakes. Keep it up!

[@sansberlin]

Thats the exact way to learn, positive progression and learning something new on every weld, sounds like a cool project

[@Danielism]

Nice work, I highly suggest Sharpie ultra fine markers for the smaller layout jobs! You can get multiple colours which can help with laying out features

[@sansberlin]

Picked up a pack of those Milwaukee markers, hope they do the trick!

[@ray5961]

Love your videos; what a fun project. Couple things: your regulator there isn't measured in PSI on the flow side. It's gonna either be liters per minute or Cubic feet per minute (generally). Usually for MIG like what you are doing, you want around 18 to 20 CFM. From what you showed real quick there, I think you set your flow regulator clear up to 20 L/min which is over 40 CFM and about twice the gas you wanna be using. If the gas flows out too fast, it won't provide good, even, soft (controlled) coverage and it will make your welding life hell. Additionally, you probably want .030" wire for this job, if not thinner. I think you might be running too heavy a wire in your welder there, although it depends on the thickness of the area. Also, better if you don't weld in short sleeves, because UV burns are no fun. Nice job for your first go around though; keep in mind that you are biting off a lot for a novice welder. Even coach builders who have welded 20 or 30 years find butt welding thin sheet metal tricky at times. It takes a lot of time under the helmet to get right. Also, in very light weight sheet metal areas, it's less "MIG welding" and more spot welding (via the MIG welder). Anytime you can lap weld instead of butt well, that can be helpful too (if it's in an area which isn't super visible) - that will help reduce burn through. Also, joint / gap fitment is 99% of the game when doing this kind of welding. Great job so far; hang in there!

[@sansberlin]

This is such great information, thanks so much for sharing! You’re very right, it is L/min, I was wondering why I went through the bottle so quick. I usually had long sleeves on, especially after a hot piece of metal hit me, but I didn’t know about the UV’s. With the wire thickness, because I went thicker, is that putting too heat into the piece? I quickly learned fabricating is the name of the game. It was a ton of fun, and hope to learn more, thanks man!

[@ray5961]

@@sansberlin Yeah, the issue with running too high of flow rate on the gas is that you end up firing the gas out of the nozzle at such high velocity that it can actually cause porosity in the weld and/or cause a cooling effect, etc. All things which work to undermine what you are trying to do (you'd think more gas is better, but sometimes less is better). Try doing some test welds using different flow rates; try 5 CFM, 8 CFM, 10, 15, etc. and you will see the difference - also welding into a corner is much different than welding flat, because the corner helps keep the gas in the vicinity. You also want to unscrew that outside tip and knock out the splatter often; it will build up and disrupt the even flow of gas. The other thing you might not realize is drafts in the shop can have a huge negative impact. If you crack open a door to vent in fresh air and you have a breeze flowing as you weld, it will serve to blow away the shielding gas just enough to cause issues sometimes. That might have been a factor in needing more heat also, by the way. I recently did a big job where I had to weld hundreds of junction points for a concrete / rebar slab and just a light breeze outside really caused issues; I had to put up wind blocks in order to weld, otherwise the welds would go off track. So there are a lot of little, subtle things which can throw you off in welding if you aren't careful. Another thing when it comes to sheet metal welding, it's helpful to sand paper / clean up the area on both sides of the weld area using like a flap sanding wheel or disc just prior to welding, then wipe both surfaces down with acetone. That can improve your welds (more for TIG welding, but helps for MIG welding as well). You might have also been suffering from poor grounding as well. You wanna make sure your clamp is close by where you are welding and making a good bite into the metal (when you had the wire kick back on you, that's because it wasn't seeing a good ground). The other thing - and you probably have learned this by now - is you were holding the tip pretty far away from the work. Generally speaking, you wanna keep the tip in pretty snug to where the puddle is, especially when doing brief tack kinda welding. Try doing some test welding with the tip really in tight vs. back 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch and you'll see what I mean. As far as wire size, yes, larger wire requires more amps to melt and it takes longer to form the puddle. So for sheet metal work I would probably recommend the smallest possible size wire you can run. I mean I run .030 here for welding up to 1/4" plate steel. What you want is thin wire and a hot / fast tack weld. Wire feed speed is also important. The MIG I used for 30+ years had infinitely adjustable heat and speed, so you could feather a tiny bit more heat or speed; however, new welders (especially cheap ones) sometimes only give you notches (like 1, 2, 3, 4) and sometimes being between 2 and 3 or 3 and 4 ain't where you really need to be. So if your welder won't allow you to fine tune heat and wire speed, that can end up being a nightmare. If you get the heat and wire size / speed on target, you should be able to pop a tiny weld into place and have it almost end up flat. Then you just have to do some light sanding to knock things down. When you see welds which are big balls standing up off the surface, usually that means you are running the wire too fast or too big. Consider this: when TIG welding for example, in some cases (such as fabricating a stainless exhaust system) you might not even use any filler rod. When you have the material perfectly cut / fitted, you can often just strike a quick arc (again, TIG welding here, not MIG welding) and fuse the material. So if you think in terms of that with MIG welding (assuming fitment is right on the money), you really barely need any wire in the mix; just enough to add a super tiny bit. The heat is primarily fusing the two adjacent panels. It's more difficult with old sheet metal than brand new 16ga stainless, but you are kinda wanting to get into that zone. Also if you start welding body panels down the road, be super careful because coming back later to sand down a bunch of weld beads can induce a ton of heat to the panel and warp the heck out of things if you aren't careful. Let me look around and see if I can find a video showing tack welding without filler rod via TIG so you can get an idea of what I mean here. I think I have one in my book marks for Titanium fabrication.... okay here's a good example: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fIubdHp9jsagq6csi=uS2T_X32ngIBDnVu - see how in the beginning he's tacking up the tubes with no filler rod at all? Same when it comes to the rotary part; because the parts fit so well together, he's just melting the two parts together and not even adding any rod / wire. You can't really do that exactly via the MIG (because the arc comes from feeding wire, not from a tungsten electrode tip), but the point is that if you turn down the feed rate of the wire you can get a similar fusing effect on sheet metal. You aren't so much trying to start a puddle as you are trying to simulate a tack weld. For thicker structural parts, such as where you cut out the rust in the subframe parts, then yes you wanna run a puddle for penetration / strength. But even in those cases, you wanna try to sink the weld down a bit more for better penetration (more heat, less feed) as opposed to running the wire too fast and the heat too low and ending up with all your weld sitting up high and needing to be ground down. Try running some test beads and dial up the amps slightly and lower the wire feed rate back until the arc starts dropping out on ya, then dial it back up just to the point where it holds; also keep the tip in tight. When it's just right, you should hear a nice buzz. You might also wanna try removing the outside part of the tip all together for light work; just run the wire out with no outside cone on. You can even run separate shielding gas from a 2nd regulator. For example, on my TIG outfit, I have a dual flow regulator setup so I can run gas through the tip, but also back purge or have a secondary source of gas flowing into the work area. Kinda over kill for MIG, but then again how much do you enjoy grinding :-) Anyway, takes a lot of practice. If you saw the first few jobs I did on sheet metal, you'd laugh. I tried welding fender flares on my car once with a gas torch and it was so terrible I just ended up taking a sledge hammer to the fender haha. Really enjoy your videos. My contact info is on my KZbin channel about page if you ever have any fabrication / welding questions; feel free to hit me up anytime. Can't wait to see the next episode!

[@joewilliams932]

good morning form perth western australia the wire feeder some times has 2 groves one is 6mm and 1 is 8 mm you just have to check it out if so turn the roller around hope this helps if you like the welding time to try tig good luck thank you for the vids

[@sansberlin]

Thank you sir. I hope there’s no negative consequence for having a 9mm wire in an 8mm feeder.

[@Lynde86]

This thing is going to be an absolute beauty when it comes out 👏🤩

[@sansberlin]

Thanks bud, hope so!

[@SofaLordOfCouch]

For any future template making, I see a lot of automotive fabricators/welders use cereal box cardboard. Much thinner than what you're using in this video, but a little more structure than just paper. Love watching this build, and keep up the good work!

[@sansberlin]

That’s a great idea! Appreciate it

[@joseg93ify]

Keep ‘em coming

[@Mitutumuch]

Dude, you literally made a chassis Rotisserie out of fucking wood. That's the single most awesome thing I've seen all year. That's the type of shit I like to see. people going after it with their own personal investments and personal troubleshooting, Not everything is easy but a little of perseverance and anything is possible. You've got my sub, because I really hate welding my chassis, aspecially because it seems like the paint just loves to catch fire everywhere. you can alaso invest in a welding magnet, which transfers the current, so that you dont have to clamp so far.

[@misfittoytower]

I am happy to see another video! One critique: please reduce the volume of loud tools like grinders, and boost the volume in the parts where you were talking next to the car. I'm having to keep my hand on the volume knob to hear you and not be blown away by the grinder.

[@sansberlin]

been a problem since the beginning. I invested in a mic for my parts, but forgot to turn down hammers and grinders. will do

[@PaulyM856]

HONEY!!!! WAKE UP THE KIDS!!! I'LL GET US SNACKS!!!! Joel posted a new video!!! :D

[@sansberlin]

Hahaha

[@joaofranca9334]

Just stumbled upon this and is just amazing! I got myself in a similar project and went through some of the same challenges as you, the tips I figured out were: -to make the replacement panels out of the rusted ones (use the rusted ones as a template before you cut them) -the smaller the gap the easier the weld -spot welding in opposing directions to avoid burn-through and warping -try playing with a higher wire speed, especially in spot welds The last one was a big improvement for me as I am using flux-cored wire, and due to the wire nature, the welds tend to be hotter. so theoretically using gas as a shield for your weld you have a bit more margin for error and improved results! Bear in mind that I am no expert and this is just input from my results I hope it helps in any way! @Fitzee's Fabrications is one channel that I can recommend for further tips and inspiration!

[@amnottabs]

I don't know if is just the camera setup but I would recommend adding a tad more of angle (15 degrees maybe, imagine like using a fountain pen) to your hand when advancing the welder tip so when you do the swirls the wire keeps feeding the welding line instead of trying to pass straight trough the metal sheets

[@snark_]

Slowly seeing this thing come together is sick! def one of the best projects ive been following, btw if you still have the hilux will we ever get a vid on it?

[@sansberlin]

Thanks man, means a lot! Unfortunately sold the hilux a year back, but the new owner is selling it in Calgary atm

[@gregriggs5524]

I make cardboard stencils and transfer them by placing them on the sheet and doing a light spray paint to get a sharper outline

[@scottshipley]

A little late for you now but I highly recommend Fitzee's Fabrications channel for anyone attempting rust repair! www.youtube.com/@fitzeesfabrications/videos

[@sansberlin]

I needed this. So hard to find fabrication videos!

[@scottshipley]

I found his channel recently by accident. But @fitzeesfabrications videos are so good, he breaks everything down into simple steps and usually only uses basic tools that most of us have.

[@Lonewolf-ei5yv]

You should have cut out first the obvious rust, and then sandblast the thing. I don't think it will last another 50 years, but you definitely got a 20- 30 year life extension. It's a Toyota corolla after all it should last this long! Keep up the good work!

[@1marcelfilms]

Better than my welds, which end up being held together more by the rivets i used than the welds itself.

[@JamesChurchill3]

Looking good. How were the sunburns on your arms?

[@sansberlin]

Haha I usually had long sleeves on…especially when a nice hot piece of metal landed on my skin

[@domecrack]

First thing I'm noticing is, you're chopping out the same spots on both sides of the car at the same time. Fitzee only works on one spot at a time, so he only has to look ~4 ft away to see what the spot he's currently building originally looked like

[@domecrack]

Between that, and the amount of heat you're dumping into concentrated areas, this car might come out a weird shape. I would suggest spreading your tax out a lot more and not holding the trigger for much more than one second at a time. Otherwise, great effort, very daunting task.

[@sansberlin]

Sounds like a good idea, its all a learning experience at this point, but i'll try to spread the heat around next time and make the fabrications as replicable as possible. Cheers man@@domecrack

[@mrmooney25]

Grinding and paint makes me the welder I ain't.

[@sansberlin]

a poet

[@TheHippoKingz]

yesssss been waiting

[@sansberlin]

lost momentum on this one, need to keep going if im going to drive next summer!

[@nebula_M42]

Excellent work man. It's super entertainint seeing you suffer for your passion lol. Please normalize the audio because the cutting sounds were too loud. Maybe its my setup tho Cheers!!

[@sansberlin]

Will do, and thanks man, every step suffers a little more haha

[@timwilliams2035]

you can just spot weld/tack. continuous welding will just distort panels with heat. Old Toyota stuff is worth the work. keep at it

[@petrholusa5855]

Where you guys getting those places to work? I wish to have so space like this.

[@Sean-Ax]

1:10 "...remove all the rust and put nu metal in its place." oh boy. lol

[@sansberlin]

"most of the rust", this thing needs to get back on the road

[@Sean-Ax]

​@@sansberlin I missed the opportunity to call it the "KoЯolla" for the joke here. d'oh

[@b00___]

awesome

[@sansberlin]

Thanks man

[@jvogler_art4708]

you could be blowing a hole because you're trying not to blow a hole and going faster, causing you to outrunn your puddle. You have to keep the wire within the last quarter of your puddle and just push it, don't drag it for mig welding, push it. hold the electrode at a slight angle while pushing. don't bother doing little circles when you weld, just try to go in a line and drag your puddle.

[@Projectvidio-n4i]

amazing🎉🎉🎉

[@sansberlin]

Appreciate it!

[@BrucieDC]

finallly!

[@karimhuerta597]

Cereal boxes cardboard is the best for templates 👌🏻😃

[@alexromanov4874]

You need to set a higher voltage and reduce the distance from the mouthpiece to the welding site. The welding time for one point is about 1 second. The welding spots should be thinner. And it is advisable to make a gap of about 0.5...1 mm between the welded parts. Thanks to this, there will be penetration to the full depth.

[@yellowpartyhatz]

5:20 made me feel bad. You have the car fully stripped on it's side. It's now or never

[@sansberlin]

When the car's back down it'll be easier to lift the carpet up and get to it

[@TimmyJoePCTech]

Any time I have done patches, especially where looks aren't important I made the patch slightly bigger than the area so it caps it off. I'd also use weld thru primer so the edges aren't metal on metal. Just sayin... Love your content though. I am extremely jealous of your project and car.

[@TimmyJoePCTech]

I also got a 36" sheet metal break at princess auto and it was 80 bucks? Always keep a water spray bottle around :)

[@sansberlin]

I saw another comment on this, i've never heard of weld through primer, what's its purpose, how can I use this? I think i'll head to princess auto today and get that exact break. Cheers man

[@TimmyJoePCTech]

It's exactly what it sounds like, you can spray it on bare metal but you can still weld over it like it's bare that way there is a barrier between your patch edges and the bare metal. Good on ya! have fun@@sansberlin

[@andrewaharvey]

Always go to good steel it can take the heat and weld back to thin. Also weld with e and I aand count 12 patterns on point welding gooooo slow good job

[@JF-4444]

Don't grind down welds that are just going to get covered by seam sealer or undercoating later. Trying to grind your welds flat makes them a lot weaker. It is not always obvious how much penetration you have in a well. If you grind the top of it flush that may be the majority of the metal that you added. Everyone makes this mistake when they're starting out. Grinding welds flat sucks. It's dirty and it takes a long time and then you realize it was probably not necessary or even a bad idea. Good luck with the project. I had one of these cars back in the day and love driving it.

[@buchusss6664]

well... if u want to see someone who is more experienced at welding, refabricating car pieces, there is a guy, Prizzamike(his yt channel), who is rebuilding his crushed nissan 180sx. He also gives advices, describing what is he doing and why. I think he is quite accurate at what he is doing.

[@buchusss6664]

and also there is Sarah n tuned. She is doing a bit different work, more like getting old JDM cars as stock as possible.

[@buchusss6664]

I hope it will help u. Buona fortuna and I'm waiting for next episodes ;)

[@sansberlin]

Sarahs doing some great work, the celica project is running right alongside this one@@buchusss6664

[@sansberlin]

I think someone's suggested him before, will check out, I was desperately looking for more fabrication and welding videos