1974 Triumph TR6 - Part 62 - Running Brake & Fuel Lines

For this car we decided to get a brake line kit instead of making all the lines ourselves. Let's see how easy it will be to install it. The fuel line was easy enough to make ourselves.

[@barry6274]

Looks good, kit worked pretty well except for clips. Thanks again!

[@BruceBoschek]

Great details. Looking very good. Thanks, Elin!

[@cpF01]

Beautiful. That looks really nice.

[@gordonblank6845]

Excellent job as usual!

[@bernardsavoy5269]

Both lines look great.

[@steveavis4642]

Great video as always Elin! You had mentioned doing stainless steel lines on yours. I'm doing stainless on min as well. You probably already have it, but I have a tube flaring kit from Eastwood. Very heavy duty with halved dyes. Different configurations for single, double and bubble flares. It makes easy work on stainless steel. The smaller kits that use a wing nut are not strong enough. Going to get my frame powder coated. Doing the work myself, I can splurge a bit.keep up the great videos! They help thousands.

[@bryanb2764]

This video was upgraded to an instructional video from a this is how Elin does it video. Well done.

[@RustyBeauties]

Lol, it is still how I do it. I am far from “how to”

[@cgignac5444]

Très instructif! Merci

[@cheftush]

Driveshaft should be the same. Looking good!

[@RustyBeauties]

Yep, you’re right. I keep forgetting that the main shaft is shorter to accommodate the OD. I did put an overdrive transmission on the 70 TR6 already, but I forgot

[@kjeldlarsen912]

Thx great work

[@tomcoulter6121]

I installed the exact same kit on my '74 TR6 several years ago. I still have the green box! I had extra pipes in my kit, as it fitted a few different years of TR6. So maybe not the exact same kit, but still Automec. Unfortunately my TR6 was otherwise fully assembled, and only sitting on regular jack stands for access. Going over the diff in the back and around the radiator support in the front was insanely difficult. Looks like crap! But it works great. I missed the video where you cleaned up the PDWA, but the o-rings on the shuttle valve prevent brake fluid from reaching the switch - and the other circuit. If the switch fails, it's typically caused by a failed o-ring on the shuttle allowing brake line pressure to bleed fluid into and then out of the electrical switch, that's what happened to mine. The switch wasn't available through the regular Triumph suppliers, but while searching the web for the part number I found that it's also used on some Ford cars, from 60's - 70's. I don't remember any of that however, so I hope yours works! Love the channel!

[@RobPeterson1]

Do you happen to know what kind of flaring was on the brake line leading to the brake cylinder SAE or DIN ? Thanks, !

[@johnniecool2091]

Nice!

[@scuba6663]

Thank you for the great video! Where you happy with this kit from moss? Where all the lengths good? Thank you!

[@TR4Ajim]

Elin are you going to put hose clamps on the fuel line/rubber hose connections? My TR4A didn’t have them either (as from the factory). However I didn’t trust just friction to prevent leaks, so I used “fuel injection” style hose clamps to keep them secure.

[@RustyBeauties]

Oh, definitely! I can’t rely only on friction. This was just a dry fit of all lines. Now that I know everything is wherever it needs to be and it fits well, I can tighten the fittings and install clamps

[@TR4Ajim]

@@RustyBeauties Absolutely, at first I thought my car was missing the clamps until I found that the factory didn’t fit clamps to begin with!!

[@mikehoroho8453]

Where did you get the brake line kit from?

[@RustyBeauties]

Moss Motors

[@mikehoroho8453]

@@RustyBeauties thanks. I'm going to be doing the same thing to mine. This video is really helpful.