1976 Yamaha DT125C Gas to EV Conversion for Under $2000, Electric Motorcycle Conversion Build

[@verifedup3062]

I have a cb125 I’m wanting to do something like this with

[@badrinair]

very neat build. You have not tried to mask any part of it which I like the most . I bought a 2002 Hayabusa without engine. starting work on that this week. Your work is an inspiration

[@zuccamachine]

I got a lot of hate from people for not trying to hide it more and make the battery look more like the engine casing. I agree with you - why spend time and effort trying to mask it to make it look like something it isn't?

[@shivanj1]

Very cool, I'd love to own one. Nicely done.

[@edwinbrown3303]

Excellent video and I love the bike

[@ziyadurukan]

Nice build, neatly done. Thanks for sharing!

[@rptrower]

You evidently did a lot of research on this project which gave you a great clean & compact conversion! I have the exact same hub motor which I plan on using to convert my 1972 Honda CT90. Would you possible share the info for the rear brake you used for you conversion?

[@zuccamachine]

@rptrower I got the rear brake from QS motor with my motor order. If you contact them, they may be able to ship you just the rear disc and caliper that will fit your motor separately.

[@rptrower]

@@zuccamachine Thanks, I will contact them.

[@johngranato2673]

Lovely, hopefully you installed one of those slip-on battery cable terminal covers.

[@desertblbuesman]

Yes.

[@JustPeachyification]

Fantastic build

[@andrewgrimm7715]

Hey I'd love to hear more about the battery! I'm about to do something similar on a dt250

[@zuccamachine]

@andrewgrimm7715 Most people will order a battery from Amorge that fits their size restrictions. Go with a battery that is just as wide as the engine was between the case covers, and fit in the biggest square you can. Just be sure that if the bike falls over, the battery won't hit the ground in any way and is protected.

[@freytoddats]

Love it!! Looking to do a 1974 ty250 trials bike in the next year or so.

[@zuccamachine]

Do it! I'd recommend a mid-drive motor and not a hub motor for a trials bike. You can keep the charger off-board to free up more battery space.

[@OKFrax-ys2op]

Sweet build!

[@desertblbuesman]

I see three comsiderations that you probably are already aware of. First, The torque arms you made. Are they strong/long enough? Is the retaining bolt and slotted swing arm strong enough? This could be easily tested with a quick fabbed mockup and a torque wrench, in a vice. Second potential problem is the possability of condensation inside the battery box which might create havoc with the BMS. And third, that positive powerr cable should have a cover on it.That said,, you've created a most awesome ride.

[@lorenzG9]

Great Project! Have you thought about cutting the cutting the old gas tank open and use it to hide the charger?

[@zuccamachine]

@@lorenzG9 The gas tank section is shaped like a U and wraps around a frame member. The charger wouldn't fit.

[@yassineldeeb5870]

Hi, I relly admire the work!! Im wondering how did you do the regen braking, does the motor come with it presetup?

[@zuccamachine]

The controller supports regen braking. It is on/off only and not variable. You can either use a momentary button to control the regen, or use an option in the controller app that full regen applies when the throttle is released. This is similar to single pedal EV driving.

[@dk7863]

🙂 😎

[@BryonCombs]

Can we get a video of you riding it?!

[@zuccamachine]

I need more subscribers before releasing my top content. Speaking of which, are you subscribed? Please do! 😊

[@timmychase2097]

Nice build I got one similar but I used the fuel tank to store controller and transformer. What kind of controller is that?… my 72v 3kw hub peaks at 45mph and cruises at 40 mph only pulling 30 amps it has more juice but I think the bms is restricting it. I know the mtr controller isn’t

[@zuccamachine]

@@timmychase2097 Controller is listed in the video description - ND72360

[@michaelg4931]

Chain drives unless completely neglected, rusty and un-lubricated are ~95+% efficient. Not sure where you got the 20-30% loss from.

[@zuccamachine]

I agree, you're correct! Not sure where I (mis)remembered hearing that. I still like the reduced complexity that a hub motor offers vs. a chain drive and would build this bike the same way if I were to do it again.

[@michaelg4931]

@zuccamachine NP, I misremember things occasionally. I agree that direct drive is a better option, as long as the rpm of the wheel/motor is what it needs to be. One less mechanical bit to fail or need maintenance.

[@ebikeengineer]

I'm liking the conversion! Though a few thoughts if I may. Why a 3KW vs a 5KW? Was it cost or was range more the priority over speed? I like the addition of the charger, you see that on several factory built cycles but not so many conversions. Have you thought about moving it into the what was once the fuel tank? That way it would be protected from the elements and it opens the possibility of using the gas cap area as the location for the power cable. Anyway this is a fantastic project, and you've done a great job!

[@zuccamachine]

@ebikeengineer The goal was to keep it under $2K. A 5kW motor was certainly possible, but the next size up motor, controller, and BMS would have bumped the build cost up by ~$500. Performance would have certainly been better. The nice part is all these next size up components can drop right in with no mounting modifications if that's ever desired. The cross section of the fuel tank is a horseshoe shape, so unfortunately the charger won't fit. Not much would fit in there honestly. Maybe the DCDC converter and some wiring. But there's already ample space for it underneath.

[@ebikeengineer]

I should have watched longer - as you later answered my question on the 3 vs 5 KW motor. ;-)

[@ebikeengineer]

@@zuccamachine You make great use of the existing space, I was just thinking weatherproofing. Yeah a U shaped tank would mean you'd have to disassemble the charger to get it to fit. But you got me thinking how I could install my charger on my Goat instead of carrying in my pack.

[@choppergirl]

... and a 12v winshield wiper fluid spray motor, feeds into a cleaned out redKoted gas tank, which now hold's my Dr Pepper... so at a push of the old starter button, I get a shot of Dr Pepper up this windshield wiper tube, that terminates near my mouth in my helmet , whenever I get thirsty. For range, I get 100 miles on the battery, but I can go 1,000 miles before I need to top up on Dr Pepper.

[@choppergirl]

Someone gave me a nice condition Susuki GZ250 with a monkey tore up motor to do this same kind of mod too, but I eventually sold it as I thought I'd need more battery area. I guess not!

[@wisdomafoolweakness3391]

Can't ride in the rain

[@zuccamachine]

The battery is fully sealed up, I've ridden it several times in the rain with no issues.

[@MarcillaSmith]

Haters gonna hate

You ruined a great classic motorcycle !!!!!!!!!

[@zuccamachine]

When I bought it, it was missing more engine parts than it had. Clearly was neglected. I got it back on the road. Not to mention I sold the rest of the ICE parts to other DT owners so they could get theirs on the road also. Also, these DTs were mass produced, hardly classic in my opinion. It's also a reversible build and you can put all of the gas parts back in if you want.