1979 Puch Magnum Project Part 5 - Repainting

Cleaning, Rust removal and Re-Painting of the Frame, Tank and Plastics on my 1979 Puch Magnum.
Steps I used (All materials available from Home Depot, Lowes, True Value & Ace etc)
Remove Decals with heat gun and scraper (doesn't need much heat, but lets you remove decals in one piece and have adhesive come with it).
Remove any loose rust and peeling paint with a wire brush (I used a powered angle grinder for the main work, then a manual wire brush and a dremel for the tight spots).
Clean with neat (un-diluted) TSP (or TSP Substitute) - Do this step before the wire brush if you need to remove any dirt or oil/grease residue. The TSP de-greases/cleans and also deglosses any good paint that is left on the part to make it easier for the new coats to adhere to.
Rinse with water.
Use neat Phosphor Prep and Etch on metal parts to remove remaining rust.
Rinse.
Rustoleum "Stops Rust" Clean Metal Primer mixed 50/50 with Acetone. 1 light coat followed by another 2 to get full coverage.
Rustoleum "Stops Rust" Gloss Paint Mixed 75% Paint with 25% Acetone. Light coat, let flash dry then one full coat to get full coverage. Let dry for 24 hours.
Use Wet/Dry paper to lightly sand remove any imperfections such as dust/bugs.
Rinse with Water
Rinse with Acetone
Let Dry
Another coat
Repeat the above sand/rinse/coat procedure 3x
Touch up any spots spry gun couldnt reach with paintbrush.
This gave me a pretty decent gloss finish without any polishing/buffing. I'm going for a Matte look so I'll be using 2500 grit sandpaper to remove the few specks of dust in the finish like I did between coats and then rubbing compound to get an even matte finish.

[@damian33dc]

your broad range of interests is why so many people subscribe to you I truly believe so. ;-)

[@peterdeluca1676]

Nice use of PPE

[@HermanOtto-wr2nn]

Witam z Polski po oderwaniu nalepki zostaje klej wiadomo nie zawsze ale ja osobiście używam do usunięcia kleju olej roślinny na szmatkę lub olej silnikowy schodzi super pozdrawiam

[@coldrefridgerator]

Niiice man i just halfass sprayed my tank and frame xD

[@n1bpd]

TSP Substitute is readily biodegradable. The Phosphoric Prep & Etch will biodegrade but can leave Phosphates in the soil, those are often used as a fertilizer so the weeds in my driveway are thriving.

[@n1bpd]

There will be more videos, right now I'm in the middle of rebuilding an E50 engine and will upload that within a week or two. Might be one or two more videos after that before its finished.

[@n1bpd]

I generally don't remove bearing races/headsets etc unless they need replacing. Hammering it out and repressing it in when I can just use a bit of grease and tape to mask it doesn't seem worth the hassle. Now if I was doing it professionally... that might be a different story.

[@THIRDGENS88]

Rattle cans are ok. You just have to do it right and clearcoat it too.

[@seansmile]

you should get a custom red and black themed decal along the side , and what do those side things in the rear with the key slot carry cause I have a lazer sport 50 with a mostly custom rear end but that piece in the back isn't there

[@n1bpd]

It said Made in Austria. Full company name is Steyr-Daimler-Puch.

[@benjaminkrentel2698]

n1bpd im also from austria, just an hour from my place to the ex puch company😀😂

[@jamesgallina3857]

Great vid - super helpful! What's the trick for hanging the parts? What is that orange bendy stuff - and how it is attached to the parts? Thanks!

[@damian33dc]

well done I'm curious why didn't you punch out the headset, before painting the frame I know it's a little tricky that's kind of hard to find a tool. in any case I enjoyed watching a video after long days of work I'm a full-time bicycle mechanic in downtown Toronto

[@damian33dc]

you seem like a man of many interests I want to do you garden question 1. and question 2. there was a sticker on the fuel tank,and it said made in ? made in Germany, ?

[@coldrefridgerator]

I rattle canned all of it lol

[@damian33dc]

wonder ****