1990 Toyota Pickup 22RE throttle body seal replacement tips and IAC valve adjustment tool

[@cbh148]

Slightly older vid, Ray, but this is what google yields when I looked up 22RE throttle body seals since no parts diagrams or service manuals acknowledge the seals even exist, much less that they're replaceable. Very helpful stuff you've shared.

[@ray5961]

Thanks! Glad it helped out.

[@adamsmiddy]

I'm trying to clean out my TB as well but having difficulty getting the little spring module off of the cross member (not sure what it's called, it's the contraption opposite side of the TPS). I took off the nut, the washer, and the throttle cable thingy, but the spring loaded cylinder won't come off. Is there a trick to that?

[@ray5961]

I don't remember there being anything special about removing that. I think it just pulls off.

[@cjgzk9553]

Hello Ray, on my 1990 Toyota pickup 22re, the truck idles fine when hot and cold. But when I put my foot on the brake, it will started to flutter really bad in idle. I replaced brake booster but it didn’t fix it. Is my IAC bad? I already tried to clean it. Thansk Ray I can’t seem to fix it

[@ray5961]

Seems like that would have to be related to the brake booster and/or the check valve between the booster and the intake plenum. Try blocking off the brake booster at the intake with a vacuum cap and see if the issue goes away. Just be aware that without the brake booster having vacuum, stopping your vehicle is going to take quite a bit more force on the pedal than you are used to, so be prepared for that so you don't accidentally wreck or run into someone while testing, etc. I doubt the IAC is related to this issue.

[@corneliuswellington6670]

Your idle adjuster screw may be too open causing a high idle. Like, if you coast in neutral, no problem, but it yo-yos its idle speed when you press the brake? Turn the idle adjuster screw to the right little by little until the brakes don't cause the problem any more.

[@1950sGirls]

Your throtle body has 4 lines mine has 3 do you know why that is 1986 4runner

[@dannyhenslee4668]

If your throttle body has 450,000 mi. like mine the wear on the shaft is enough to make a leak happen in about a month of use on new seals. While at idle you can woggle the shaft , causing the idle to surge. got a throttle body with less miles on it , replaced the seals and idles good now.

[@ray5961]

Yeah, I ended up doing the seals on mine also. My truck has about 453K miles on it.

[@emanuelambrocio1563]

What kind of silicone or gasket are you using to seal the IAC valve?

[@ray5961]

I left the stock one on there and then just put a thin smearing of that RTV Ultrablack on it. As long as the original gasket is still okay, it should be fine. If not, you can get gasket material from the auto parts store and carefully make a gasket. Not sure if that particular gasket is still available from Toyota or not.

[@emanuelambrocio1563]

@@ray5961 thank a lot.

[@estuardoleiva5647]

Hey Ray i got a cuestion My tps is out of adjustment and i think the tps ears are wrong, in some pictures they align with the screws and other dont My truck is 94 Thankyou

[@ray5961]

Usually the TPS should end up adjusted so that the screws on the top and bottom are fairly close to in the middle of the adjustment range. The TPS adjustment is extremely sensitive and very critical to overall engine operation; it must be set using feeler gauges and a digital volt meter. If someone was just winging it, it will be out of adjustment usually. You need to look up the info in the shop manual and adjust it properly and make sure the springs inside are not broken or anything. Start here w/ the TPS info 22reperformance.com/faq-diagnostic-info

[@estuardoleiva5647]

@@ray5961 ok got it But the cuestion is about the litle metal with legs that goes on the shaft where the tps sits

[@ray5961]

@@estuardoleiva5647 I'm not sure what you are asking. Can you be more specific? Are we talking about the ears which bolt to the throttle body with the two small screws? As I remember, when you re-install the TPS, you do kinda have to be careful to make sure the shaft inside picks up on the spring thing, otherwise it will end up out of whack and not bolt up properly. Is that the issue you are running into maybe?

[@estuardoleiva5647]

Sorry about that, but i'm asking about the paddle on the shaft where the tps sits and move the tps when you accelerates

[@ray5961]

@@estuardoleiva5647 Oh, the part which bolts to the throttle body shaft, with the nut in the middle that holds it on? What about it specifically?

[@malinemanzano2590]

How’s a going Ray, are you using different bolts for your IAC valve?

[@ray5961]

Yes, I had to change some of those bolts down there. Removing them destroyed some of the factory hardware. I also used a lot of Titanium hardware on the motor in general.

[@malinemanzano2590]

@@ray5961 Do you happen to remember what size and length those 4 bolts were? I believe one is longer then the other 3.

[@ray5961]

@@malinemanzano2590 Are you referring to the 3 bolts and 1 stud which hold the throttle body to the upper intake plenum?

[@Ru_90]

Is the throttle body on the 22RE the same on the 3vze

[@ray5961]

It's a similar design, but not the exact same.

[@nrguitar11]

Hey Ray, great informative vids.. I came across this while looking for a solution for my 3vz rough idle issue. My truck starts up great on cold starts, and runs good, however, once I’ve driven around for a good while and turn off the engine.. when I try to start it up again it idles REALLY rough and stalls. Once the truck cools off and i turn it on again it runs good again. Think this might be an IACV issue? I thought to check the throttle position sensor and cold start injector as well. Any thoughts/suggestions? Thanks in advance

[@ray5961]

It's hard to say. However, the IAC stuff does give people a lot of issues. I don't know the 3VZ motor specifically, but if there is a way to safely block off the passage which controls your IAC valve (or disable the valve completely), you might start by trying that in order to rule it either in or out of the picture. When the IAC valve is disabled (or its air flow passage is cut off), it will cause the motor to not idle well initially when cold, but once the motor heats up, then it shouldn't be missed. You might also try disconnecting the power to the truck to reset the ECU. That can sometimes clear the air/fuel map table and help a bit. It's hard to say though without further diagnostics.

[@nrguitar11]

Thanks for the quick reply. I will start with the IACV as mentioned. Meanwhile, I’ll keep tunin in. Great content!

[@ray5961]

@@nrguitar11 Thanks!

[@BBBB-ez2kq]

Do you use any gasket sealant/adhesive with the gasket for the throttle body?

[@ray5961]

If you are talking about the junction between the throttle body and the upper intake plenum (the 3 bolts w/ 1 long stud), then negative. Just the gasket only.

[@giovannizambrano927]

If you happen to go through these videos, cause you’re having an idle issue with the idle surging change your idle control valve I promise you if you look through your vacuum hoses and seals have no vacuum leaks change your control valve I promise you it’ll fix everything

[@DePalma.]

Messing up your idle when started again warm...rough idle?

[@ray5961]

Yeah, usually the idle RPM's will dip down to 500 or 600 here and there until the temp comes up a bit.

[@DePalma.]

@@ray5961 do you think that is due to the idle air control valve or to the seal on the throttlebody? I took mine off the other day and cleaned it out but I couldn’t find where it had a possible vacuum leak. I wonder sometimes if I should just buy a new IACV... but after watching your video I’m not sure if it will solve the problem. My thermostat is 180°, not 190

[@ray5961]

@@DePalma. I think the unstable idle when warm is due to my setting on the IAC valve. In fact, I'm uploading a new video right now discussing that and showing the changes I'm making. The seals seemed pretty decent. I think I also have oil control ring issues, which are contributing to unsteady idle perhaps. I'm working on the motor this week and going to see if going to hotter plugs might help a bit further. I believe I'm running a 170 on mine, but I also have an electric fan which kicks on around 185-190 so I have to run it lower than normal to avoid the fan running all the time. That's another reason I'm going hotter with the plugs.

[@DePalma.]

@@ray5961 OK, well I really appreciate your help and thank you for the videos they’re really good. I’ll make sure to have a look at your new one when it comes out. Do you think if I was to buy a new idle air control valve that the setting would be OK, stock setting I mean?

[@ray5961]

@@DePalma. Hard to say. I just set mine to shut down air flow at about 100 degrees - which is 2.75 turns from full in clockwise on the adjustment ring thing. The video is about half way uploaded now... so check back in another hour or so and it should be up! :-)

[@jk73sb]

Great video as always. Thank you for the tons of information. I am curious on your thoughts of polishing the throttle body while it is off of the truck?

[@ray5961]

You're most welcome! Polishing it would look cool, although a lot of work. I think I'd probably just buy one of the LCE billet throttle bodies first :-)

[@dannyhenslee4668]

you really have too much time on your hands.