I usually like Valvoline 10W30 or 10W40 - either the one for high mileage or the normal synthetic one. I've also had real good luck with this oil here: www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVNNT6XV - but it's rather expensive by comparison. Sometimes I also run 8 oz of ZDDP additive to help protect the cam lobes.

Thanks for the response Ray. One last question.My motor is strong, but it feels like the truck is taking off in second gear or there is some kind of brake being applied and then it will all of a sudden release and it is like twice the power. I have adjusted mass airflow and several other things but cannot find the issue.

Glad your brother was okay. Yea, these little trucks are truly amazing.

A lot depends on boost levels and what ECU / tuning you configure. As a general rule of thumb, 15 PSI will roughly equate to double the original stock HP. So if the 22RE had around 100 HP stocks and you pump 15 PSI into the motor, you'd probably have +/- 200 HP. It's very helpful (when building any forced induction motor) to spend some time reading older books regarding the theory behind turbo and super charging. A lot of this technology stems from war time airplane engines as well as development throughout rally car racing (group B for example). Pays to read up and there are some good books floating around. Are you running the stock compression ratio or something custom? There's typically a large trade off in the area of the starting compression ratio of the motor vs. how much boost you can run. Also, keep in mind that once you start to get above 15 PSI boost, you begin to experience diminishing returns in power, although stresses and temps and other negative issues start to become almost more exponentially negative to your end goals. You can also run into sealing issues with the head gasket and all sorts of issues. Myself, I like to run some moderate level of water injection once boost levels trip above around 10-12 PSI, just to aid in heat and detonation control. Are you sticking with a stock Toyota 22RE-T ECU or spinning your own engine management? Do you have any previous experience with engine building and/or forced induction or is this your first go-around? If this is all new, you can just kinda "bolt on the turbo" and learn and have fun, but I would suggest keeping your boost levels capped at 12 PSI to start with (max) and also make darn sure you are running high octane gas. Be super careful about detonation. Also, using hypereutectic or forged pistons is never a bad idea. As you may know, even with my non-turbo 22RE I run hypereutectic pistons and have thin film ceramic on top. That would definitely be beneficial with any turbo charged motor, as temps definitely are a thing with turbo motors. Many times I've come home from racing around town and my entire turbo / manifolds are glowing ruby red under the hood. Be ready :-) Hood vents blowing down on the turbo itself is also never a bad idea, especially if you like the paint on your hood.

hey... it's been a while since I did that build, but yes I believe I did remove everything including the oil pump, etc. If I remember correctly on the 026 build, I stripped it clear down to the raw housings. The seals go back into those main bearings as I recall.

you mean what amps the system is showing? I have a 140A alternator in the car, so it usually can handle anything you throw at it... I'll check next time I drive the truck but usually it stays up around 12.9 to 14.0 volts.

@@ray5961I see at idle with my fan and headlights on I have about 12.6 v. I have the same fan as you but I have a derale fan controller. 30 amp just has an adjustable temp to turn on the fan. I have a 140 amp one wire alternator(power master 87021) but it’s a true one wire the 3 wire option doesn’t work for sense. I was honestly planning on converting back to my mechanical fan as it’s genuinely becoming a pain lol. Although I do love the quicker throttle response and the difference I feel.

@@fiys567 Yea the electric fan conversion turned out to be a lot more work than I had expected going into it. However, now that I have it I love it and would never go back. Next time I fire up my truck I'll get some readings. With regard to your 12.6V measurement is that taken with some sort of gauge in the cockpit or via the battery terminals with a digital meter? I've noticed on mine that the voltage levels in the internal wiring are slightly off from the reading I get right at the battery terminals. Also, I'm running all LED head lights, which draw about 1/2 as much current as normal halogen type lights. My G30 lithium battery also adds a bit to the mix, since lithium cells have a slightly different voltage profile and thus tend to bump up the entire system. I'll see if I can take some readings for you soon.

@@ray5961 I am reading right at the battery posts. I have all LEDS every bulb besides my speedometer ones. I use 4 gauge wire for my alternator straight to battery for power and 4 gauge for alternator ground to block, same gauge for the rest of my grounds/starter.

@@fiys567 Have you tried measuring the resistance and/or voltage between the B+ post on the alternator and the battery and/or chassis? Also, have you checked voltage output directly at the B+ post of the alternator at idle? That can sometimes provide clues to subtle issues lurking around. Normally if the alternator is spinning it should be able to kick out 13.9 to 14.0 volts or more to the system. Often times you can download the output chart for the alternator and see what voltage it should output at what RPM's.

When it dies, does it cut off cleanly or does it falter a bit like you are running out of gas? If it's sudden and "sharp" then It sounds like an electrical fault to me (i.e. loss of spark or power to the ECU). The ignition switch (where you put your key) can become touchy with age. If you have a lot of keys on your key chain (which are hanging and swaying) it can sometimes cause the ignition switch to break its connection, which in turn kills power to the ECU. Try driving with just the ignition key only (if you aren't already). You can also just try giggling the key while the motor is running to see if you can produce the same failure. Also, there is a rather large (long) electrical connection that hangs out under the steering wheel... it has a lot of pins and with age those can kinda lose their connection. It's not uncommon to run into issues of all kinds that can be traced back to that connector under there. You might want to push on some of those pins in there to see if you can trigger a failure. Alternatively, and this is what I had to do on my truck when I first got it, you can just open the connector and clean all the pins with a tiny SS brush that goes into each female pin connector and then spray some WD40 and brush the other side. In extreme cases, you have to pin the connector back down. Also check the fuses and relays - both under the hood and by your left foot. Make sure everything is good to go. Keep me posted if you have any further questions.

Nice!

Thanks! Yea the 488 eats batteries. That car also has not the best charging logic on the alternator. If you bought a standard battery - AGM, etc. - I wouldn't expect it to be able to sit too long. The tender helps, but really only a Lithium battery is the solution. Even then, due to the 488's charging non-sense, you have to top off the Lithium every 3-4 months. Didn't have that problem with the 458 Italia.. but you know Ferrari. Enjoy the car! Glad the video helped a bit.

Shouldn't be any issues. You can remove the VSV's and mount them on the fender well (specifically the AS and EGR VSV's) and also ditch the fuel up VSV and just run the vacuum line directly to the fuel pressure regulator. You can also re-route the vacuum lines directly and dump the pipe manifold that's on the valve cover. You just need to preserve the PCV valve and modulator and EGR valve, as those will be tested for functionality during a smog check. You also will need to preserve the EVAP canister and purge vacuum hose, but you can run a smaller EVAP canister if you want. You can also run an oil catch can, as there are provisions in the smog laws now for that. Make sure to maintain the fresh air hose from the throttle body to the front of the valve cover as well. You can also relocate the EGR modulator if you want, although that's kind of a hassle. NOTE that base idle will need to be no greater than 7 degrees BTDC (I usually run 5 degrees or 6 degrees most of the time - right now I think it's set at 5.5 degrees if I remember correctly). Any base timing of 7 or higher will cause you to fail smog usually. But just removing the vacuum lines and/or the VSV's around in the engine compartment shouldn't be an issue - so long as they are there and functional.

@@ray5961 It’s very cool of you to take the time to answer questions Thank you PS. You should do a vid on a kill switches for these trucks. My first one was stolen forever and had my second one attempted last year

@@helloitsmehb Sorry to hear that your truck was stolen. What part of the country are you in, if you don't mind me asking. I've considered making a video regarding how to install a kill switch, but I also don't want to provide a road map for thieves on how to bypass one either. There's plenty of information out there on how to setup kill switches on vehicles in general and I would direct you to those resources. I think it's also a great idea to install some sort of GPS tracking on vehicles which are becoming more and more desirable as time goes by.

@@ray5961. Yeah maybe you’re right about giving away secrets. I’m in Huntington Beach. It was stolen as I went surfing. The second time was in Newport Beach. I know the switch saved the day since my wife’s wallet was rifled through but nothing stolen I actually have a small side hustle installing kills switches. Maybe do 2 a month to mostly middle aged women. Working on the website now

This video on my friend's truck covers things pretty well - kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJSum3l7jq2eaJosi=PPUs6qgbXVPrcW8M -

@@ray5961 I missed that. Perfect. 👌🏽

sounds like the IAC valve might not be closing. Check the inlet and outlet hoses to see if they are heating up properly and check coolant levels in the system as well. You can also remove the rubber elbow and tape the IAC air hole shut using some duct tape (just wrap it around the lip so it doesn't end up sucked into the motor) and that will totally shut down the IAC stuff completely. Also, check the O-ring on your idle adjust screw. That screw should allow you to adjust the idle when everything is working as it should be. Even 1/8th of a turn on the idle adjustment screw should be able to drop the idle RPM's 200 or so RPM's - it's a very sensitive adjustment when everything is doing its thing correctly.

Your advice is right on target man - 100% there. If you go after market cam, you basically just have to live with less than smooth idle. I'm building a 3RZ turbo soon (short block is sitting right next to my desk now). Great advice though, thanks for sharing. I definitely have learned a lot about the 22RE these last few years and I agree that everything you said is pretty much right on point.

@@ray5961 thanks. I went with a 3RZ as well. Search "3RZ / 2RZ Swap Notes" to find the thread. I tried to help out others doing the same swap. Please make a video of the 3RZ turbo swap. I'm pretty happy with the naturally aspirated power but have been interested in a bit more for high elevations.

@@liveoak7838 I found your write up.. very nice build. Yea, the 3RZ-FE is a super solid 4 cylinder. If you search my channel, I show a video of my motor back when I got it. I'm probably going to do the build in a few years (after I get a new shop). Looking at running 15-20 PSI boost with a small intercooler and water/meth injection for higher boost ranges. Should put out a solid 350 HP I figure.

Yeah, I had the same concerns myself. I ended up talking to Cerakote and cured the pistons in the oven at 300 degrees F for 2 hours instead of 1 hour at 500F. These pistons do have a high silicon content which probably helps out a bit also.

Nope... it's OBD1 not OBD2 so you cannot plug a traditional OBD2 code reader into the ECU (OBD2 didn't become a thing until I believe around 1996). Do you have a check engine light on?

Thanks man. No plans to do anything with the MSD box out this way anytime soon. My next project is gonna probably be a 3RZ turbo for my truck (in a few years) and I'll be using individual coil packs for that one.

Yes I've seen it a couple of times. No only can the hoses themselves become blocked, but the internal passageway inside the IAC valve can as well. You can end up with corrosion in there sometimes and it needs to be cleaned up. Usually you can just check the temp of the hoses to see if coolant is flowing though. The other thing which can clog up the system is stray RTV sealant in the cooling system - for example if someone gets a little too crazy sealing up gaskets and RTV squishes out into a passage and breaks off.. that will often times flow through the IAC passage ways / hosts and get trapped in there. Honestly, I wish Toyota had just put a manual choke on the dash.. the IAC valve causes people so much trouble.

@ thanks that’s good advice to check the hose temps. Yup I’d take a manual choke on the dash instead. I like k.i.s.s keep it simple stupid. The only tech I like in cars is power windows and Bluetooth stereos.

@@joesee8079 I'm with ya on that. I have roll up windows in my truck and I added a Bluetooth streaming module that connects to the factory head unit (although from a later Toyota as I remember) and allows me to stream music in as though it's a CD connected to the deck. Looks totally factory :)

Could be many issues. You'll need to start running some standard diagnostic tests to help narrow down where the issue is. What's the idle at?

¡Gracias por esa información mi amigo!

Thanks for the info! I've been running Zerex Asian Vehicle Red over here for a number of years with good luck and no signs of degradation in the radiator. From all the research I've done (and in speaking with Zerex directly), it seems to be compatible and a good choice as well. If I remember correctly, there is a link in this video's description that points to a page that fully discusses the Peak 10X as well, which I found to be a great read and highly recommend it to everyone.

Thank you :)

I have a video which talks a little more about it here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJS5dZilqq2dfac - as far as driving down the road, it's much nicer because you are more in connection with feeling the road. My buddy, whose truck has been shown on the channel a few times recently, was worried he would miss the P/S. I convinced him to trust me and we removed his P/S and A/C and he came back a week later saying he loves it so much more now. The only time you notice the lack of P/S is if the truck is totally stopped and you are trying to crank the wheel.. so you gotta get in the habit of having the truck moving a bit before turning the wheels. When you back out of a parking spot, sure you have to crank on the wheel a bit more, but that's the only time you really remember there is no P/S. For me, I like having more firm steering as it makes the truck feel more sure-footed on the road. I do not miss having all that P/S garbage on the motor and taking up space. I was never so happy to ditch anything in my life (except maybe a couple of psycho ex-girlfriends.. but it's a toss up). Anyway, 99% of the time, you don't miss it.. even parallel parking is fine, so long as you make sure things are rolling as you turn the wheel.

I don't have the measurements for the threads but the pipe is 10mm OD as I recall. The U pipe itself came off the cooling loop that runs up front for the P/S system itself. Those fittings are the original ones that go into the P/S box - they are straight threads and kind of strange size as I recall.

yes, there is a little round pad of that in there to help slow down the oil fumes and give it something to condense against. It's an on-going R&D project lol :)

yea hard to say.. but you do have to be careful during installation. There's no real trick, other than to just align things and push it forward gently until it slides into place. Sometimes issues can be caused if you start changing throw out bearings or sleeve heights, but if it's just an in/out then you should be fine. Did you make sure to bleed all the air out of the master/slave for the clutch and test to see if it's actually moving the fork?

@ray5961 thank you very much for your kind response. First time doing clutch replacement. I managed to redo the whole process again and it worked. What I didnt do before was make sure clutch plate n spline was aligned correctly. I just used alignment tool that came with clutch kit to center but this position was different to spline in transmission. I dont know how I reattached transmission first time. Lots of stress from effort and worry. Big learning experience. On a separate know you ever experienced around 300ml radiator fluid loss,? Potential head gasket issue? Mine has done around 215,000 km. Thank you.

@@davylee88 Glad to hear your got the gear box back on and working okay. 300ml loss over 215,000 km... hard to say. You might want to consider checking to see if there is any exhaust gas present in the cooling system. Here is the kit I use to perform that test (people have videos showing how it all works). www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VVBSFTF - it will detect any exhaust in the coolant if there is a failing head gasket at work. Typically if the cooling system is working, the coolant level should stay right at the top and the overflow tank should go +/- and inch or so up and down between the mid line on the overflow tank. You might want to double check that the hose running from the radiator to the tank tap is not accidentally flipped around backwards. There are two ports on the cap and you cannot mix those up or you can draw air back into the system. Also, if you did not use a funnel kit to properly purge air from the system when you originally filled up the coolant, then it's very easy to accidentally trap air in the system. Here is the kit I use to get all the air out: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I40ZQWE

Yea I'm with you on the exhaust thing. I installed an exhaust and hyper flow cats on my 360 and made it less than enjoyable to drive. I ended up selling the 488 within 5 months; it's a POS as far as I'm concerned.

haha... oh man, if you saw the truck when I bought it the first night, you wouldn't believe it. It was on the way to the wrecking yard basically. So many issues :)

I'm not super familiar with the operation of a single wire O2 sensor. On the 22RE there is a signal wire and ground. I am guessing the single wire sensor is using the exhaust system itself as the ground perhaps? The other two wires (for the 22RE) is a heating circuit. If you are running the car without the wiring for the heating circuit it might throw a CEL and/or negatively impact engine operation when cold. You should be able to find Denso O2 sensors on amazon (although sometimes you do have to re-pin the connector to the original connector so that everything plugs in nicely. Here are two part #'s from amazon that I have used for O2 sensors. Denso 234-4055 and 234-4051. I think I also used a NTK 24111 as my down stream sensor on my truck because I welded a threaded bung into my exhaust system, but that one should be plug and play for the downstream one (and it's available on Amazon). Does the single wire seem to be working on your setup?

@ thanks Ray can't believe how well my 22re runs!

For sure.. here you go: A/C magnetic clutch: B/W (black w/ white stripe) Knock sensor: B (black) Oil Pressure sensor: Y/L (yellow w/ blue stripe)

@ I have a pink with green down there too any idea what that is for

@ and green with yellow stripe

P/G is either gonna have to do with the transfer case stuff or more likely the heater circuit on the O2 sensor. When you say "down there" what location are you referring to specifically?

@@bradwilliams5800 Where is the wire exactly? That's a common wire color for several things. There's a wire that color for the AFM as well as TPS. Also sometimes it's super hard to tell the colors apart. I re-did my entire truck's wiring harness and sometimes I'd be searching the manual for a color combo and then find out, "oh shit, this wire is actually dirty orange, not brown" and have to start all over again in the search. If you are doing extensive wiring over there, it pays to get a Toyota Truck electrical wiring manual off ebay. Just get an actual OEM printed one with colors, not the re-print garbage they sell that's all B&W photocopies. The manual should have a silver cover. Here's a 1993 version www.ebay.com/itm/374788507092 - it shows every connector, what everything looks like, what pin # is what and every single color wire and where it goes and what it does.

That's great. Yea all those little mods add up :)

@ I also changed the air flow meter but haven't tried to adjust it internally yet.

@@johnosullivan6620 Shouldn't need much in the way of adjustment. There is a trim screw on the side there, but it basically just helps you smooth the idle a bit (think of it like an fine adjust between the spring clicks on that inside wheel).

Yea I had to use some rubber in there to help take up the slack as I remember.

Hard to say... but you might want to bypass the relays for fuel by jumping Fp and B+ in the diagnostic box just to rule out everything that controls fuel (Fp to B+ will force the fuel pump on and keep it on and bypass a lot of fancy stuff). I'd also do a compression check to see what compression is. Check ignition timing. Also the TPS requires feeler gauges to set and very specific readings on a digital meter - is that how you set it? Also try pulling out the 15A EFI fuse for a couple minutes to reset the computer. Check the door inside the AFM also to make sure it's no binding. Have you recently done any other work to the car?

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OBOWGO?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - I have this one here and that's the link I purchased it from as well.

Yikes.. yeah trust no rebuild unless you do it yourself. I just rebuilt my motor for the 2nd time and discovered the previous owners rebuilt the motor and installed the wrong size piston rings... wow. If your motor has a lot of sludge in it, you might consider using something like motor medic engine flush. I used that twice on my motor (prior to rebuilding it) and it seemed to clean things up pretty nice inside.

Thanks! It's a vintage Nardi wheel. I found it from a guy in Japan that sells steering wheels via eBay. You just have to search around on line, but check out the Nardi company; my wheel is from maybe the 70's or 80's most likely.

Good luck! :)

Yes, all good now. The issue was related to the door binding and this was throwing everything off (e.g. the truck wouldn't idle, the fuel pump wouldn't shut off as it should). After fixing the AFM now everything is working 100% again.

@ray5961 thanks for that info, i just open a mafs for my 1990 3vze from watching your vid, havent tried it as yet , but i have a friend with a 22re who is not idling so ill pass along that information. Thanks