Yeah not sure. I've since sold this machine, so can't be of much help there.

Thanks man! Great saw, great truck :)

The plate on top that all the VSV's attach to and the metal manifold tubes for the vacuum lines? Most of that went into the recycle bin. I cut part of the metal plate out and it's currently holding my spark plug wire loom / clip thing.

These watches were originally released back in the late 90's as I recall at a retail price around $5900 or so. I don't know if this watch is still offered by Bulgari, but I sort of doubt it. Your best bet would be the used watch market or on eBay from a reputable seller, etc. It's a very nice watch, but I don't think I'd pay much over $1800 to $2000 for a used one these days w/ original box and papers. In terms of luxury brand divers' watches, I believe it's always been pretty well regarded. Full blown watch snobs might scoff at it a bit, but I always really loved mine and received many compliments on it. With proper regulation it was able to keep time to just a few seconds per day pretty consistently.

Yeah, they are great trucks for sure. I love mine. Does everything I need and is super enjoyable to work on and drive.

Thanks! And not yet, but it's still on the list :)

Yeah.. it's crazy right? My buddy has a 22RE w/ and automatic and it idles super smooth to where you almost can't tell if it's running or not. I have a ported head and street cam, which makes my idle a bit rough down around 800 RPM's so I tend to set the idle closer to 950-1000 - it's still a bit shaky. On my truck, I've got forged wheels and tires that are 29" and I can do maybe 105 or 110 top speed (although usually don't push things past 100 too often); but I can cruise all day long at 85 MPH and still get 23.5 to 24.5 MPG without too much trouble. 32/36 DGV is a good carb.. I've spent many hours rebuilding those and jetting them, etc. EFI is nice and it's cool that the computer can control stuff, but there's still a lot to be said for good 'ol carbs that are properly tuned and jetted (once the motor is up to temp I mean :-)

@@ray5961 yeah in ways I still miss my carb. Tinkering with it was fun at times and a PITA others. Regardless, I've been pretty happy with the efi system so far. My only complaint is the fast idle up to operating temp. In the winter it just obliterates my fuel mileage slowly idling down from 2k rpm for 5-10 minutes. My carb could have fast idle kicked off after a minute and idle down to 700 before the temp gauge started to move.

@@evensteven821 Yeah the Idle Air Control valve is sort of a hassle at times. I have some videos showing how you can get in there and adjust it, but it can quickly become a can of worms. You can also totally disable it (for example if you usually just start your truck and go and don't need to idle at any stops or anything in the first 5-10 minutes). Basically you just put some tape over the IAC valve inlet hole just inside the throttle body (just be darn sure you wrap the lip over the edge so it doesn't end up sucked into the intake or something). I've done that routine for testing purposes and as long as you use some type of very thick / high quality tape, it usually will hold up pretty well in there. But yea, that idle up thing can be kind of a hassle at times. On my truck I have it adjusted such that it doesn't go clear up to 2K anymore, but rather more like 1200-1500 and then within 2-3 minutes it's mostly out of the loop. You could also have blockage in the hoses going to and from the IAC body and/or in the body itself - any loose RTV in the coolant system usually finds its way to those small coolant lines and blocks things off. You can check to see if the upper and lower IAC coolant supply hoses are keeping temp w/ the upper radiator hose - and if not, that suggests a blockage. Also the temp of the upper and lower hose should warm up exactly the same together. If the upper one gets hot but the lower one (these are the small coolant hoses that run to the throttle body) then there could be an internal blockage. When that happens, you are at the mercy of the overall intake manifold / engine compartment area warming to lower the idle RPM's as opposed to the coolant itself.

Appreciate your input and I agree that in the vast majority of cases OEM (Denso, etc.) is often best. I don't believe OEM injectors are still offered by Toyota for the 22RE, however; this is why you see a lot of "rebuilt" injectors available for the 22RE. I've used both OEM and also these Bosch jobs here. While not a huge fan of Bosch in general, these particular injectors are very nice and perform slightly better than the original 2 hole injectors found in the 22RE (in terms of spray pattern). Additionally, I'm not sure if Denso still makes their own fuel injectors or not or if that is now handled by a subsidiary. I do know that there are a lot of fake/copies on the market from China, so you have to be exceedingly careful when sourcing replacement injectors for any motor - particularly "Denso" brand. Anyway, as far as my personal experiences, I have about 23K miles on these particular injectors (shown in the video) and they are still running flawlessly and providing perfect A/F ratio and great gas mileage. Of course, now that I think about it, the A/F ratio is being read by a Bosch wide band O2 sensor, so there could always be some type of collusion going on under the hood that the ECU isn't aware of :) I can say these injectors are great value for money, but that's only based on my personal experience with them. Thanks for watching!

Right? That's what's up.

@ she’s still a work in progress. Trying to install AC on it and working on a tricky kill switch.

@@flyprincess69 A/C is fun times.. I just removed the entire A/C system from my buddy's truck - not sure if he is still selling all those parts or not, but maybe.

@ I need the manifold on the compressor. It gets to 115 where I live.

@@flyprincess69 That manifold? I'm not super familiar with the A/C system - are you talking about the mounting bracket that holds the compressor the block? Let me know and I can ask my friend if he has any parts still or what's up with the stuff we removed from him truck.

Thanks man. Feel free to use the comments section if you ever have any questions on anything related to the 22RE.

@ will do thank you

I hear ya... 22RE is good, but you can't kill a blueprinted SBC either :)

If you're referring to those tubes that bolt on over the header there, those are the air injection tubes for the air suction system (which is a passive system, so there is no air pump technically). All that stuff is the original smog equipment, so just left it on since the header has holes for that. You can block it off, but the air injection helps cool the exhaust flow and that air is also needed for the cat to function correctly.

Thanks very much. The wheels are Volk Racing LE37K (a limited edition version of the SE37's) from Japan (produced back around 2000).. very light weight flow forged aluminum; size 17x7.5" with +40mm ET - 5x114.3 CPD - I'm running 8mm spacers and extended ARP wheel studs - there's also the Wilwood brake hats in the mix there. The tires are Kumho Crugen HT51 all season 225/65R17 102T (part # 2227983). When I drop in my turbo 3RZ motor, I'm probably gonna switch out the rears to 17x9.5" size and some larger size HT51's - however, I most likely will have to go with SE37's and then just polish the lip and Cerakote the centers to match or something, as I don't believe Rays ever offered the LE37K's in that size. On the fronts, it's a close fit, so I had to limit steering lock-to-lock a little using some washers on the tie-rod stops under there (about 10mm each side as I recall). Let me know if you have any further questions on anything :)

@ wow man im blown away by your detailed explanation that helps alot thank you so much! I noticed the rear wheels sit alot more narrow than the fronts (atleast on mine) did you notice that on yours? and if so, did you plan accordingly with a slightly larger negative offset than the fronts or did you keep it the same and still have the fronts wider than the rears?

@@joelcowdrey727 On our trucks, the rear wheel base is typically around 54" while the front is more like 66" in width. As far as rear clearance, I definitely have room to spare back there as far as tucking a larger wheel/tire combo between the leaf springs and fender arc. (around 1.5 inches on either side as I remember. My 4 tires and wheels - and also the wheel ET (offset) - are all identical. I believe all my spacers are 8mm in thickness as well. The brake rotor hats probably account for ~ 3mm or so.

oh thanks very much! I'll run through the links and see if I can update though. I appreciate the heads up. Thanks!

@ray5961 no worries I would want someone to let me know too. the air filter link is a dead end as well. I was able to look up the throttle adjustment screw still. I'm looking for headlights now ,mine are old and yellow , also looking for a passaenger side turn signal side light lense or assembly the neighbors kid parked on a hill and their cars e brake went out and luckily it only nicked my bumper a little and broke the turn signal lense on its way down to the bottom of the steep hill,,so I'm looking for a good replacement ,,,just wanna keep it OE as much as possible AMAP

@@nathan-i-el_messario I just went through and updated all the links. The air filter is no longer for sale on ebay and I can't find it out there on line. I wrote to the company asking if they still produce it or not, so we'll see. The link for the throttle adjustment screw should be working okay (it seemed to be when I clicked it just now). As far as the lenses you definitely wanna stick to OEM if at all possible. I've tried using the cheap ones from Thailand and stuff and often times the clear section will turn cloudy after 6-12 months in the sun - it just depends I guess on who is making them. But OEM is best, even if you have to buy used ones on ebay and clean them up again. Also check out Cerakote's ceramic headlight restoration stuff for plastic.. it works really well, although I have never used it on anything but my girlfriend's Lexus ES300 lights. The glass light housings with H4 LED bulbs is where it's at though.. my truck lights are super bright - especially w/ the Rigid D2 driving lights in the mix, it's crazy bright.

Nice.. ya the oil catch can is handy. I love mine. I'm running an after market head and cam on my 22RE - it's the street pro EFI cam from LCE as I recall (which is actually ground by Web Cams). I'm running it retarded by about 5.5 degrees if I remember correctly (there's a video on the channel where I cover it); by running it retarded the motor revs out better past 5500 RPM's. Part 2 will be coming at some point, just haven't had a chance to sit down to record it yet (but it's on the todo list).

Don't know of anyone off hand. I do all my own work here, but just on my personal stuff. Finding skilled mechanics and/or engine builders out there is not easy. Wish I had some recommendations for ya.

​@@ray5961thanks anyway. I could deal with the top end but low end...whole different story 😮

@@StanKindly Yea I just did the bottom end on my motor.. it's actually not all that bad. If the issue on your motor it just the rings only, you might want to consider giving it a shot yourself. With my motor, I measured the cylinder walls and they were pretty much okay. I just did a ball hone using a hone off Amazon and then bought some Keith Black pistons and total seal rings. The hardest part was getting the bearing clearances on the connecting rods measured, but realistically this is a truck motor not an F1 car. In my case, I did change to Eagle rods, but you could easily re-use the stock rods and just slap in some ARP bolts and still get away with it. I mean I drove my 22RE for thousands of miles with all the rings broken into parts and the truck ran amazing lol :) Might wanna consider giving it a shot just to get some more life out of the motor. You can always do a full rebuild / blueprint down the road if needed and/or like a +.020" over bore in the future if required. As long as your cylinder walls are in good shape, the block is probably still fine. On my motor I had a big gouge on cylinder #2 wall and all I did was run a slightly smaller ring gap to offset it - so far the motor has been doing great despite that slight flaw in there. About to run a leak down test on the motor to see how it's doing. Anyway, if you can handle a top end rebuild, you should be able to also handle slapping in new rings and pistons I'd think. You can easily drop the pan and do the job w/ the block still in the truck. It's not all that bad.

​​​​​​​​@@ray5961I was sort of planning to do the drop pan version but two things. I have more than a few Ortho problems (discs in lower back , rotator cuffs etc..). Thank God I had some help lifting the head in and out. Plus I live in apartment and really don't want to do it there in the parking lot. What tricked me and the other mechanic was there no rise in compression doing the wet test. I should have rotated 180 to look down the bad cylinder when the head was off ( but didn't want to risk losing the timing chain off of crank sprocket) but 2 and 3 looked good plus I assumed if the rings were that bad then white smoke should have been coming out of the tailpipe (but not necessarily with the new CAT) but I did smell a little oil. Number 1 only reads around 130 and the other two 150 so I really didn't have high hopes for any long distance trips - the motor is pretty tired...Anyway the rain is coming so Japan Motors was recommended and surprisingly they sell rebuilds for $2300 plus tax plus $400 core deposit. It's going to be $1900 labor. It's worth it to me, I suppose... half ton / long bed / AT...& I built a cedar camper shell with solar panel etc.. I'm surprised you are getting compression with the scored or gouged cylinder. I probably have a huge gouge - reason why the compression doesn't come up with 0:04 a wet test.

@@StanKindly Yea until you pull the pistons it's hard to say for sure. My motor has great compression but was drinking oil like it was going out of style. There are a number of videos covering all that on the channel, but bottom line was someone bored the motor .020" over but slapped STD rings on the pistons - oops.. so they all broke apart. Nevertheless, motor ran fine. The gouge on my #2 cylinder was thankfully near the top of the cylinder and only about .008" deep and maybe 6mm in length - it sits above the 2nd compression ring on the Keith Black (KB) pistons, so just going with it for now. Motor seems to be doing great and oil consumption is far, far less (but still not winning any awards). I'm going to do a leak down test shortly here, so we'll see how that all shakes out. As far as pulling the pistons out with a bad back, etc. not too horrible. I tore my rotator cuff many years ago, so I feel ya. Mainly if you can jack the front of the car up, then you can slide in under there.. use a long extension to torque the rod bolts and you're good to go. It's not has horrible as you may be thinking, once you strip the motor down. In hindsight, I think pulling the block and doing the job on an engine stand is best. I should have done that, but got lazy and didn't feel like messing with hoisting out the block... but I don't be making that mistake twice :) Anyway, if you have any questions along the way, feel free to hit me up anytime in the comments section there.

Sorry to hear that - sounds like a fun engine swap. Yeah, the PCV system can be really troublesome when it isn't functioning correctly; there's something to be said for running a dry sump right? :)

There's a switch inside the AFM that controls the fuel pump - that switch is there to kill power to the fuel system in the event of the motor stopping. If you turn your key to "ON" and the engine isn't running, the fuel pump should not turn on (at least on the 1989 and later models w/ fuel injection that's how it should work). Can't say for certain about the '87 model. Check the electrical signals from the AFM and also confirm that the door in there isn't binding.

It's just a 1" ID silicone hose that acts as a stand off to raise the PCV valve up a bit. I put some green cleaning pad in there to try to mitigate oil being sucked up into the PCV system and catch can a bit. It's kinda like a "pre-catch can" almost. Not really needed unless you wanna run higher than normal vacuum levels maybe.

@ray5961 thanks for replying , , I was wondering if you had some suction going on there, but it's an oil residue blowing filter. , i see some folks with the tiny filters on the front of the valve covers right next ro the engine oil fill cap ,and I wondered if that makes a difference , I just got a 71 error code , and have been looking into egr delete since it's a 94 ,and we haven't ever had emissions laws where I'm at ,but I don't wanna just ruin the world... I've seen so many mixed opinions in the egr delete ,if I can clean all the components and clear the code then that's fine ,but the egr alone is over $200 & so many ppl say it works for 100 miles then the code returns . So I'm just deciding to clean it and see what happens, anything over $200 for a part & I gotta wonder am I just wasting money.. ur Thoughts on an EGR delete? It's 94 22re ,212,000 miles on a brand new engine lol 😆 😂 🤣

@@nathan-i-el_messario You can run a breather (aka Small K&N style filter) at the front of the valve cover if you have a motor with carbs - but you should never do that with an EFI motor, as it would be allowing unfiltered air into the motor and will result in things running lean. For an EFI motor, that must be the fresh air breather tube that comes off the throttle body nipple. The EGR system is fairly simple and if you remove it, it's relatively easy to clean and confirm if it's working properly or not. Sometimes the vacuum modulator blows out the diaphragm inside and then things no longer work. Mostly removing or disabling the EGR system will keep the intake manifold cleaner inside and maybe allow for a touch more power in some cases.

Congrats on the truck!

If you put the cap hat on, then put the light w/ straps over it, then yes I think that should work no problem. It's not too heavy.

@ray5961 I received mine and it seems like the bending angle would be toward the sky if you want to use the clip on a hat brim. Unsure how one would manage on a hat. My alternative is to clip it in diagonal to my jeans pocket. My goal being to light the dog's job so I can pick it up. It's dark early in Quebec

@@frankcosette3046 Sorry man, my bad.. I thought you were asking about the other light in the video (the one with the band - the HM61R) when you said "hat" I was thinking you were asking about putting the band around the hat. The WT25R probably wouldn't be ideal for what you are talking about. I actually ended up returning the WT25R because I found it to be not so great of a light.

Yeah could be some blockage in the oil return hole in the back of the cylinder head. Stuck open PCV also. Stick an oil catch can on to see if the oil is going that direction or not. A lot of times that much oil consumption will point to broken rings.

@ just checked the oil return, no blockages, PCV valve just lets air pass, I believe it to have failed. Thanks for the tips, I got a new valve on order as well as catch can. Ran a bore scope down the spark plugs and don’t see any oil or scoring.

@@Kodekrashed yeah if the PCV valve is stuck wide open that could do it, especially if you live in an area with a lot of hills. When the motor goes up a hill all the oil runs back there and sometimes it can swamp that rear baffle - if the PCV is wide open you basically end up with an oil vacuum cleaner back there.

I removed it to reduce drag and help increase gas mileage

@@ray5961 Not to be argumentative, but I put one on my 94 base model and have gotten 40 mpg on occasion with my 22re with a 5 speed.

@@garethleitner9547 For sure man, no problem. But 40 MPG seems really high. Have you checked your speedometer using GPS on the phone to confirm everything is reading accurately? Best I've ever seen on my truck is about 26 MPG with a tail wind, although I'm usually driving 80+ MPH also. In my experience a lot of times when people say they are getting 35 or 40 MPH out of the 22RE it's either because they are not actually doing the math calculations correctly and/or because they have an undiscovered calibration error due to running different gearing or something. Are you filling up your tank full each time and then dividing the miles you've driven by the exact gallons needed to always top off the fuel tank or just estimating how many miles "for a full tank of gas"? Also, have you done a GPS calibration to check our gauges? On my truck for example, I have different gears and tire size and that all works out to a 5% error which I have to account for. So when I'm traveling 80 MPH on the dash, my truck is actually going 84 MPH. If my odometer says I've covered 200 miles, really I've covered 210 miles. If it takes 10 gallons to fill up the tank to top again, then just divide the 210 miles by 10 gallons and mileage is 21.0 MPG. Is that how you are computing things? I think 40 MPG from a 22RE is next to impossible unless you are maybe running 35's and driving 55 MPH the entire trip or something... fill me in, I'd be curious to know more! :-) With regard to removing the side mirror and installing a smaller mirror on the passenger side, I can definitely feel that the truck drives a bit smoother on the highway and mileage improved maybe 1/2 MPG +/- on account of it. There are times when parking that I do miss that passenger side mirror though! :)

That's how it used to be done back in the 60's - google "draft tube for PCV" and you can read all about it. You certainly could convert back to that setup and just run a draft tube from the valve cover down to the road, but having positive ventilation (i.e. vacuum) helps reduce oil consumption and typically helps your rings seat a little better. You'll also generally make a bit more HP. The hose that runs from the intake to the valve cover is readily available all over the place, just search "22RE PCV hose" and you can find it. My advice is to run the PCV hose and get a bit more power.

Thanks! And not yet on part 2, but it's on my mind.

@@ray5961please do part 2

@@niccolomendoza7382 It will be coming soon! :-)

Not familiar w/ that specific catch can. The one I'm running does a great job and is super simple inside and works extremely well. You can use silicone hoses sure, but I personally prefer rubber (silicone tends to be problematic and leaks in my experience). The hoses are far enough away from everything that heat shouldn't be any major issue. If you want to insulate them a little bit extra, you can run acrylic coated fiberglass insulation around the hoses - I use a product called "Techflex Insultherm" and you can find it readily available on line; it tends to be expensive, but it's very high quality - that's what I use on my wiring harness and some rubber hoses that are in contact with very hot surfaces, etc. And here is the PCV valve - mewagner.com/?p=444 - just keep in mind that it's very sensitive to minute adjustments, so you will need measuring equipment to ensure you are pulling the correct crankcase vacuum levels at all times. If you over shoot, it's easy to turn your oil catch can into an oil vacuum cleaner. If you see some of my other videos, I show there is a suction gauge on the dash which monitors my crankcase vacuum levels in real time off the diagnostic port of that PCV valve. Keep in mind open flow (i.e. fresh air coming into the motor through the breather tube off the throttle body) will reduce the reading as opposed to pulling a vacuum in a closed system.

did you solve it? i have the same issue, i think my timing jumped somehow it was running fine and stopped wanting to start

@ haven’t fixed it

Bought a new igniter and a new ecu is on the way hopefully it’s that

@@manny4138 did you check the compression? mine apparently has super low psi like 30psi every cylinder..not sure how.. opening valve cover today

That will get it :)

as far as for the high beam indicator light? No, I just removed the bulb in there. I have driving lights which are wired into the mix and they have their own blue indicator light on the switch, so I just use that. Let me know if that is what you're asking about.

sounds like some fun projects over there for sure. I mean you can make 800 HP from under 2 liters with enough boost, but the question is how long will it survive :) I could definitely see 275 HP to 300 HP from a 2.4 liter. Back in the day, my friends were getting solid 275 HP out of a 2.0 L series datsun motor. LS right? Let's go!

@@ray5961 I really want to make a custom intake manifold to run dual down draft Weber 32/36, or twin 38 Webers, iv seen the side drafts and they look cool but I want something unique that as far as I know nobody has done before would and be performance oriented, I have this problem with working on anything and just leaving it stock I gotta hop it up a bit, hell my buddy had a rideing mower he said he wanted more power from his 18hp Briggs and Stratton flat twin, so I pulled his heads milled .030-.040 off of them and unshroued the valve Pockets, he said it definitely made a difference until he did a wheelie off a curb and bet the Chinese tin frame the thing was made of thay was a good day of laughing and drinking

@@NathanPellham-yo8pl Dual 44 Mikuni sidedrafts is were it would be at for the 22RE

click "more" on the channel info; you might need to be on a browser though (not a phone).

I was about the same, have couple questions in my 91 Toyota I don’t have anything to look up browser just my phone

@@victorespindola5173 feel free to ask questions here as well

@@ray5961 I’ve been having issues with my 91. Toyota pick up idling hi and low when it comes driving on the road and when it’s a dead stop what could be the issue? I did new distributor new wires new spark plugs everything has good spark but idling won’t stop

@@victorespindola5173 check the door inside the AFM to make sure it's not binding. Also check for vacuum leaks using a vacuum gauge and visual inspection. Check to see if there is coolant flow around the IAC valve hoses. Could also be incorrect adjustment on the TPS - try to diagnose the issue instead of just replacing a bunch of parts hoping you stumble across it. You might also try running a can of B12 fuel injector cleaner through the fuel tank. When you say "high idle" what RPM's? Driving down the road?? what do you mean. Are we talking about while you are at a stop the idle is too high or too low or what?

stop switch? What pin on the ECU is that? I'd like to look it up

​@@ray5961 in the ecu the smallest connector wire green white, but if you want to check before cut this cable, the best way to confirm is disconnecting the plug from the stop switch is a little tricky due the reduced space

@@erasmoochoa8744 The green/white lead to the ECU is the EGR temp sensor

@@ray5961 there are many green white cables, is necessary view the manual, I have digital manual if you needed, if you have access to this manual check the STP terminal location

@@erasmoochoa8744 Ok yes, I see it now on the STP pin (also G/W). I don't have cruise control on my truck as it's a manual gearbox and I have also removed the original steering wheel (and those switches). What exactly does that circuit do?