1992 F350 part 5- Progress on the doors, floor, bed, and a rant

[@kevinshea4776]

So great that you took the time to put this video out for us to see and learn...really appreciate it! Great advice to store good parts in a sealed old blanket.

[@Velvethamma]

Kevin Shea Yes. No use saving parts that get beat up

[@Buckswoodshop]

Have to say you do a very thorough job!

[@Velvethamma]

Bucks WoodShop I sure try

[@GaryRubino]

Man thats intense! Coming along sweet!

[@Velvethamma]

Gary Rubino Thank you sir

[@GaryRubino]

Ill admit too that I painted over an old firebird door (first car I painted like ten years ago) and I had the formula decals on it, I just took them off and didnt think much of it, primed and painted... oh yea they ghost through I can confirm that! lol

[@JerrysThisandThat]

Killing it Shawn.

[@Velvethamma]

Jerry's This and That Seems like a never ending process

[@satajet883]

Nice resto job👍

[@Velvethamma]

satajet883 Thank you. Good to hear from you!

[@joshihle1674]

Since you mentioned sealing the old paint with epoxy, thought I would share an issue we recently had in our shop. We did some repair work on a tailgate for a truck that's getting a complete respray/color change. . Everything was looked good primmed..blocked.sealed with epoxy primer/sealer... Painted and cleared. .looked great. .buffed and let sit while worked on rest of truck.. We had moved it around several times in shop.. After 4th day started to see edges of old paint ..almost like edge fry up...plus some scratches coming back. .called jobber.. They stopped and looked at it got the company rep on phone. .Who will be coming to shop wed....Needless to say there response was. .sealer..or epoxy are not true barrier coats and will not seal down old paint... (my jobber and I both gave each other dumb looks as these products are sold as just that sealers. .) Hope wed rep will shed some light on this matter.. As we use a lot of epoxy sealer especially on new panels with no issues. .However most of our work is collision and rust repair over existing paint. .we pride ourselves in doing the job right the first time and not having a customer come back for rework. .

[@Velvethamma]

Josh Ihle I’d be curious to see what you find out. Epoxy was my plan. If I have to strip it, I’m gonna cry for sure

[@joshihle1674]

I am curious as to what rep will say. since they claim these products we are buying are sealers. . I will try to get you some pics of what happened to tailgate so can see results.. at this point its simply going to be sanded with 600 and new base clear applied.. while this will remedy the current situation i don't want a repeat.. nor do i want to hear you had same problem on an entire cab..they did say there general sealer applied in 2 coats and left for 1.5 hours was a barrier coat...(sealer) however its not DTM and does not have the adhesion properties of an epoxy. we use several products from this company (axis coatings) there DTM ultra prime and prestiege clear are two of main, lightning clear being a big one too for quick bumpers or single panels.. so far great products. we are currently spraying axalta chromabase..base coat. previously it was PPG however cost per sprayable ounce was way higher color matches were off and just didnt like it lol..Tomorrow the Rep from axis will be at shop and will relay what information he passes on..we seen similar issues with shrink back in ppg products , all products are different and the epoxy your using will have different specs.. however contacting a rep first and verifying it is a sealer barrier coat may be good idea. as this problem was not a fry up and did not show for several days after base clear...a respray at that point is lost money. and major pain.

[@Velvethamma]

Josh Ihle Yes. My plan was 2 coats of unreduced epoxy after bodywork. Then 2k primer and paint. I’m wondering if your job had solvent trapped due to reducing the epoxy as a sealer. Let me know what rep says. I always weigh what the rep says but at the end of the day they avoid admitting product failure at all costs

[@joshihle1674]

Ok so after few hours going over products with the Rep...it all comes down to termanology... sealer is not sealer...just what they call it... unless the tech sheet specifically calls it a barrier coat then it is not. epoxy alone is not a barrier coat,,, primer if thick enough can be... epoxy and sealer are more or less simply adhesion promoters... if you was to use epoxy.. flash 30 min then do two wet coats of sealer(listed as barrier) allow hour and half flash.. your safe.. (or whatever your sealer recommends as barrier coat) He basically said the chemist that work thier formulas up have never sprayed a day in life and dont really know how products being used.. thats where he comes in test everything and relies on customers responses to help make their product better... we always had concern with using just sealer as there is always cut throughs...well found out today if cust through is not more then 50cent piece in size the sealer will adhere just fine.. he had sample sheet metal about 4" by 8" of bare metal that was sprayed with sealer alone as barrier then sanded and featheredged... a few cross hatch scratches and adheasion was very good.. now if your epoxy says its a barrier coat you will be fine.. if not.. find good sealer that says is barrier and follow tds for that... what happened to us was as product sit for few days solvent from all layers.. base clear etc made its way through epoxy softening them up and causing edges of old to lift.. he said this is common in urethane products.. now if was polyester primmer would not see that solvent soak through .. just with urethanes..will post pics on google plus of the tailgate if can get camera to pick up issues...if anyone has any questions on products we use or just anything feel free to ask...sharing of information and mistakes we have learned makes us all better at what we do..

[@Velvethamma]

Josh Ihle I couldn’t agree more with what the rep said and what you are experiencing. I will definitely take caution in this situation. Cured epoxy or 2k can hold down repairs but their flash times are often pushed. In a collision shop environment I think cycle time sometimes becomes more important than letting products cure. So I’m thinking that polyester makes a better barrier coat than a urethane for the reason you suggest. Product failures for me always led me back to solvent entrapment from rushing a product in a shop I wasn’t heating overnight. We do learn from each other’s mistakes and sharing helps others for sure. Hiding our pitfalls helps nobody

[@TheFred1952]

great job

[@Velvethamma]

Fred Sitzenstock Thank you sir

[@The88katana600]

You always do a great job

[@Velvethamma]

The88katana600 I try

[@Bradygoodz]

Nice 👍🏻

[@Velvethamma]

NorthTexasFarming Appreciate it!

[@snocrushr]

Nice 👍👍

[@Velvethamma]

snocrushr Thank you!

[@richroxy41]

Great job

[@Velvethamma]

Rich Woodchipper Thank you

[@emeltea33]

What is seam sealer? Its name likely describes, but it was said to be brushed? Does it harden, while remaining flexible and also take paint better than Bondo or caulking? Just curious, thanks.

[@Velvethamma]

Doug Owens Seam sealer is basically automotive body caulking. It is epoxy based and has a very tenacious bond. It is paintable with automotive paints and used to seal and waterproof certain panel joint intersections. It can be tooled or brushed to give a certain appearance

[@samg5543]

Excellent. I do the same with stone chipped parts. Much better repair.

[@Velvethamma]

Sam G A couple spots I can see but this thing was sandblasted to death. Do you have a quick way to strip them or is my 80 grit on the D/A the best way?