1995-2003 Nissan Maxima: Lower control arm replacement

[@dntlss]

thank you much for the video, im gonna be doing this this weekend, im actually helping out a coworker,i know my front ends but it never hurts to get to know your prey before you go hunting.

[@boredmder]

@ctl46 14mm socket and wrench for the end links, 22mm socket or wrench for LCA bolts and ball joint nut. And of course a hammer, floor jack, jackstands, pry bar, side cutters, typical stuff. Air tools (or any power tool) save a lot of time here. If you're looking to swap out the bushings, you'll also need a 27mm socket for the link bushing pin nut.

[@themechanic4222]

I changed mine in both side the same way without removing the CV axle . some videos on KZbin they removed the CV axle to get access to the ball joint nut .crazy more work on top work. goof job

[@joshuacampodonico6554]

I just replaced my inner and outter tie rod this is next, a good help to get my 2000 Infiniti i30 moving after that a rack and pinion and strut replacement between going through the repair manual and watching these videos I find the repairs made easier thank you

[@gtown03boy]

As you still making videos on you maxima. All of them are really helpful...

[@Link-io2hl]

Awesome vid my brother I thank u. and yes air tools do make things easier, I will invest in some. *thank u from an upcoming mechanic

[@boredmder]

Change out the entire end link, if the bushings are worn or gone the ball joint on the end link probably isn't all that great, either. Those are the only two ways to really get the KS out without removing the UIM/LIM. It's much easier if you do, but that's a job in and of itself.

[@Reinamexiicana]

omg!! thank you so much... i was wondering what was making my car pull to the left... it was so annoying. .. a friend told me it was the arm bushings. i am changing it asap... thank you. 😀

[@boredmder]

Not familiar with the job myself, but I show 1.4 for R&R, and OE price on the LCA to be ~$320. Assuming $80/hr labor rate and a dealer part, you'd be looking at ~$450.

[@darenvinson4484]

Just replaced lower arm on Altima.Good video.THX

[@boredmder]

Many do that instead of replacing the ball joints themselves, if your LCA bushings are worn out it's probably cheaper overall, if you include labor.

[@boredmder]

I used an open ended wrench to break loose the balljoint nut just prior to the video. I also got the ball joint stud loose with a hammer before filming, just to make the filming easier. Also I was lucky enough to be working with two vehicles that had zero rust, so it's definitely a YMMV situation.

[@boredmder]

Yes, I've got a few waiting for me to edit, render, and upload, just have to get around to it.

[@boredmder]

If you're replacing the LBJ, a pickle fork will come in handy for separation.

[@Dirk3672_StupidYT]

Excellent video! Thank you!

[@boredmder]

A pickle fork is fine, if you're replacing the LBJ (and have enough room to get both it and a hammer in there). If you're dropping the LCA for bushing replacement, you wouldn't want to use a pickle fork as you'll damage the balljoint boot, which will lead to premature joint failure. FWIW I've never had a problem using this method, nor has anyone I've worked with. Maybe you're missing the word 'temporarily', as it quickly returns to its original shape.

[@frankie11209]

bro wanted to ask is it better to change the bushings on the sway bar link or change the whole unit plz respond urgently. by the way love ur channel have a maxima as well learned a lot from ur videos. if u dont mind the video on knock sensor can u plz show an easier way of accessing it

[@lamjones7588]

My control has the same issue problem is my crown nut is stubborn and will. Not budge. Its also a 19mm so i think factory. I've heard use the cars weight to keep the ball joint from spinning, which im going to Try once the thing moves at all.

[@boredmder]

Get a longer breaker bar. If you just can't get it out, it might be time to apply some heat.

[@jimpinckard7891]

Good video but would have liked to seen the re-install from underneath.

[@boredmder]

+Jim Pinckard Yea, I'm not sure why I chose to film from up high like that. Honestly watching a lot of these old videos makes me cringe; poor video quality, very poor audio quality (though a lot of that is me mumbling), and sadly about the same production quality as now.

[@dntlss]

one quick question, once you remove everything the strut doesn't have a lot of travel left right? you know when you take a lower control arm of a car that has coil springs the springs fly off but in this case the strut stays put but if i remember correctly you do have to compress it a little when putting everything back together right? also wanted to add about the comment the person made about using a pickle fork,ive been using that system of hitting the side of the spindle with a hammer to remove ball joints and tie rods since i was 12 years old and im now 44 and ive never had a single problem,as a matter of fact im not a big pickle fork fan,nothing beats a little hammer action and watching that ball joint going,plop and it falls right out, its kinda cool ,again thank you for the great video and you are so right about putting the hardware back exactly where it was before, great tip!!!

[@boredmder]

Once you have the weight of the vehicle off of the strut, it's at full downward travel, there's no need to compress or fight it during installation. I specifically mentioned that short bolt as I've seen reports of people throwing it in the wrong hole and pulling the threads out of the subframe, I don't even want to think about the nightmare of trying to repair that.

[@destructo870]

boredmder You said you don't want to talk about it but please do. Idk if I mixed the short one up but I had trouble getting back all 6 bolts on both sides. It took forever but I eventually forced all but 1 in with airtools. I feel like there may be a problem now but if I take my bolts out I guarantee they won't go back in. Any recommendations? Would a machine shop be able to drill new threads out or anything? I'm stumped.

[@boredmder]

+destructo Honestly if they're in there and everything's tight, I just wouldn't touch them until absolutely necessary. A shop should be able to helicoil any damaged threads, but it'll probably come at a high price. Would be much cheaper buying a helicoil kit of the appropriate size, and also the right drill bit and attempting the repair yourself, if you feel up to it.

[@boredmder]

Are you sure it isn't just the ball joint stud spinning with the nut? Worst case scenario, you may have to cut it off. Generally if you can get a grip with some vice grips on the stud itself, you can get the bolt off. That, or try an impact (though you'd need to remove the axle to get on there).

[@alejadito67]

it's posible to replace only the bushings from 8:06 to 8:10?if it's so, does the job needs special tools?

[@boredmder]

+Alejandro Bolanos Yes, Moog makes the bushings, PN K200669, under $10 @ RockAuto. No special tools required.

[@alejadito67]

+boredmder I forgot to mention that my car is an altima 98 gxe, everything looks pretty similar, I'm not sure if it's the same. thanks so much, the places where I went to check the car said I need both control arms and a axle, a total of 900. your videos are a great help. thanks so much

[@boredmder]

+Alejandro Bolanos Yep, same part number for your car. Assuming only the rears are needed, you'll be good in an hour's work and under $20 in parts.

[@joseppi2219]

Is this the same procedure for a 2000 maxima? Or 5th gen? I'm getting loud hard thumping or clunking over bumps in series... Or multiple bumps in rd..

[@daviedave0915]

i see it had a oil leak where the bushing went bad could u tell me where was ur oil leaking from i have the same exact problem

[@boredmder]

You'll likely find it's a combination of valve cover gasket and a leaking high pressure PS hose. Also potentially a timing cover leak, but most likely the first two.

[@daviedave0915]

ok i changed both valve cover gaskets ima check the timing cover next where is the High pressure PS hose located

[@boredmder]

From the pump down to the rack, back pretty much right above where the LCA is is where it likes to leak.

[@daviedave0915]

ohhhh ok could that be the reason im puttin oil in my car like every 2 or 3 weeks

[@boredmder]

Oil or power steering fluid? If oil, no, that would either be leaking or burning. If power steering fluid yes, that's where it'll be leaking.

[@12vgs8606]

Does the trick of not having to take the axle off works on a typical New England pre-rusted car? Most of the mechanics want to remove the axle to remove the ball joint instead of what you did. Can you get at least a boxed end wrench on it? I don't see open ended wrench working in my climate.

[@boredmder]

+12vgs8606 Not likely, no. I've gotten lucky that all of these I've done have been pretty rust-free vehicles. You could potentially get a boxed end wrench on the balljoint nut if you were to take the wrench to a grinder and thin it out a bit, but I doubt a factory cast wrench from any company would get on it. If you were to do so, I'd recommend a 6 point just to lessen the chance of rounding off the nut. In a rusty case, removing the axle seems like the easiest option.

[@Hot80s]

what did it sound like before the new parts were installed? my 03 max has good struts & coils but clunks over bad roads, there is no loose in my steering just clunks.

[@boredmder]

It actually didn't make any noises that I can remember, just the hard pull on acceleration.

[@ctl46]

Can you post a list of the minimum tools needs to complete this job?

[@tuch2244]

How much would it cost to have this job done on a 2000 Dodge Stratus. Replace the lower control arm with ball joint.

[@2008Flyboy]

Are there any major differences between the 4th and 5th gen?

[@BostonVapedBeans]

Hey man im in the middle of the job and one of the 22mm headbolts wont come out on the silver metal part that fastens the control arm in. tried air tools, breaker bar and socket, wont come out. Any advice??

[@macseven74]

my bolt on the ball joint wont come off at all. im afraid if i keep trying to turn it I will strip it..any advice??????

[@Titan-qd9rg]

where does the smallest boat go

[@boredmder]

+Titan 24 It's been a while, but I believe the outermost position, towards the side of the car.

[@Perplexer1]

That bushing is literally gone. How could it have gotten so bad ? Don't you have yearly vehicle inspections ? The technician there should have noticed it and told you to change it far sooner.

[@boredmder]

No safety or emissions inspections around these parts. I believe I did this repair a few weeks after buying this car as a beater.

[@USFSoldier1]

You said when you were accelerating the bad bushing had your car pulling, Would this happen when braking as well?

[@boredmder]

+Dillion McAllister It's entirely possible, but none that I noticed.

[@USFSoldier1]

Alright thanks just a curiosity question

[@willisingo]

Yeah been banging on that spindle for hours ball join aint coming out at all

[@boredmder]

Should be all but identical.

[@jgizzy]

It looks like you already broke that ball joint nut loose prior to the video -- using an open ended socket?? When I tried this, I rounded off the nut because it was too tight. After cutting the nut off, I pried on the ball joint like you did (in your video it comes out like butter with minimal effort) yet when I did it, the pry bar bent before it would finally pop the joint out which required me prying with my body weight while smacking the knuckle with a hammer. Disappointing

[@boredmder]

Engine, suspension, brakes, interior, or what? Yes to all 4.

[@jsimsagin]

omg never bang on any part of your car " temporarily miss shape".. no good..pickle fork man come on..other wise good video...never missshape a part u are putting back on, setting yourself up for problems.

[@Reinamexiicana]

omg!! thank you so much... i was wondering what was making my car pull to the left... it was so annoying. .. a friend told me it was the arm bushings. i am changing it asap... thank you. 😀