1995 Budget Civic Subframe Brace & Swaybar Install!

[@darxxtuff]

I like that you're throwing EG In the mix. Perfect amount of variety to keep things interesting. Great job as always Seth

[@Busydadgarage717]

From now on, that beat you used for the install is going to be in my head when I work on my car.

[@crxseth]

Haha, crank it up on repeat.

[@dougross8043]

On my EG hatch, I used a GSR front sway bar and a Progress Group 22mm rear sway bar. Those sway bars and a Momo steering wheel made the car feel great in corners

[@enriquecantarero]

what end links did you use for the integra sway bars?

[@whatheck6709]

I have a DX EK hatch, no sway bars of course, even with coilovers, still has noticeable body roll. I think factory sway bar from EK model were Front 22mm and rear 13mm, but can use 14mm integra rear sway bar too which is cool. Something I wanna eventually do in the future. Anything more than 14mm rear sway bar needs bracing, hence why the EK9 and DC2 came with OEM bracing.

[@wopino]

Already know this vid is gonna be a banger

[@danteeightsix]

Working on the Civic again. Nice!

[@rodrigo4379]

Thanks for the video man! I own an EG8 too, already has suspension and full VTI brakes. Now I really need sway bars :)

[@crxseth]

Very nice! I am really just trying to keep this car as budget as possible. I bought it for $700 and tried to keep everything on it reasonably priced. One day I hope to restore my 1994 EG8, but it needs a donor car to get it going again.

[@tcriderph3294]

Another great vid seth your toys are simple and clean build. This is why i love older honda civic despite their 25 to 30 year old car but they still have a lot of aftermarket support. I'm nissan sentra kind of guy and it's a challenges to find a aftermarket parts for the car even you find one bought it the quality in the picture online is different in person and it won't fit despite it said on description fit on 87 to 90 sentra i just recently purchase b12 sentra wagon.

[@antonmealy168]

Quick parts supply turnaround, & good to see the unexpected little problems we encounter to stall us. Was happy to mount an old Integra sway-bar straight to the factory mounting holes, though as you say significantly thicker aftermarket bars makes additional bracing plate to spread the loads a little further apart tempting. Believe original lower arms already had hole to bolt up swaybar end link, though without welded-in nut of Integra & upper spec. models. Though aftermarket arms alternative mounting options to vary the effect of the bar is also a nice touch. As was availability of spherical endlink joints.

[@Patrick94GSR]

I run the ITR stock 22mm rear bar on my GSR, with the old school Beaks reinforcement plates, and stock end links. Been on the car probably 18 years at this point.

[@antonmealy168]

@@Patrick94GSR I bought a bigger aftermarket swaybar for my DC2/VTi-R/GSR but that couldn't be fitted to factory mounts & needed matching aftermarket braceplate, & that needed factory mounting threads drilled out so have not fitted it.

[@Patrick94GSR]

@@antonmealy168 yeah I knocked out the original factory welded nuts for the old sway bar mount brackets, to attach the reinforcement plates. Did that in probably 2005 or so, never had any issues.

[@oregonfelder1]

I think EF and EG rear subframes are the same. I could be wrong though. Seems like a lot of rear EG parts are interchangeable with the EF chassis

[@hectorherrera8316]

Excellent visual process and explanation about those thanks a lot.

[@chillwithcars]

Awesome video yet again Seth!

[@crxseth]

Thanks!

[@DIYAUTOCAR]

That's some dedication to re-tap that thread for that bolt. I'm lazy and would have went to get a bolt.

[@crxseth]

Hard to find that particular bolt size and thread pitch around here. I thought re-tapping it was easier.

[@DIYAUTOCAR]

@@crxseth yeah it probably saves time running around and looking for a freak bolt.

[@Patrick94GSR]

Man I would have at least ordered longer bolts in the correct thread pitch. Now if you decide to remove the parts, the stock bolts won’t fit.

[@davidbeverly3463]

I've got that same subframe brace on my 97 EK coupe with TruHart lowering type control arms and I bought a what i believe is OG Cusco red subframe brace with 19mm blue sway bar I need to install and I think it has oem brackets but mounting points are out further on these ears of the brace. I'll try and send pics on IG. LOVE THE EG Content bro! That thing mint!

[@crxseth]

It’s definitely pretty rough around the edges, but it does the job.

[@JTWorld210]

Hellz Yeha Miss my civic 👍🏼👍🏼🤘🏼👌🏼👏🏼

[@KhanKhan-ss6dj]

Great timing

[@DISCO__COWS]

Great video. Thank you

[@joshuam.6404]

Hi Seth, I’ve read that there’s a school of thought to not tighten down the nuts and bolts until the car is back on the ground, the idea being it saves the bushings from getting too stressed and damaged. Any thoughts on that?

[@crxseth]

Yeah, I tightened mine after using the jack to raise the hubs. Not the end of the world, but it’s a good idea. Hard to tighten when it’s on the ground considering there is no room to get under it to tighten.

[@joshuam.6404]

@@crxseth yeah that’s where I always wonder how people do it. Cause like for us garage guys with just a floorjack, there’s no way to squeeze back under there to tighten everything once the wheels are back down on the ground 🤷‍♂️👍

[@tcriderph3294]

That's true i've doing that for a long time now despite the fact that i'm working in my garage without auto hoist just regular jackstand i used wood blocks to put on each wheel on the car so the suspension bushing component would settle on the vehicle weight.

[@oregonfelder1]

I would use my extra jack stands and support the car at the end the control arms, then rest the weight of the car on them. Also apply white lithium grease to any bushing, new or old.

[@Patrick94GSR]

It’s more important with stock style rubber bushings which can bind when outside their normal ride height range. With poly bushings it’s not required to torque them at ride height since they can rotate freely.

[@Userloading]

Seth, everytime I watch one of your videos I want to go out and buy a CRX, but the only ones I can find have been parked upside down on a light poll by a crackhead.

[@crxseth]

That’s all of them, unless you pay $10k+. You have to buy what you can find and bring it back to life!

[@margarettedavac3963]

what color?

[@Matt_417HondasandFriends]

hell yeah

[@Bmadspeed]

Looks really good 👍

[@Sinnfull]

Are they still holdin up pretty good ??

[@crxseth]

I sold the car many months ago but they had held up for a year without issue other than the adjustment dial breaking.

[@Givelasagna]

​@crxseth when doing any rear suspension work, you have to make sure the bolt grade is 10. Anything below that is too weak and will eventually snap depending on road conditions. The fact it lasted a year is still pretty good

[@garryoak]

What if i want to keep the tie bar too?

[@crxseth]

I’m not 100% sure, but I imagine you can still mount it.

[@Daniel-yd4vg]

Love your vids dude

[@crxseth]

Thanks for the support!

[@ivancocco4822]

Subscribed!

[@crxseth]

Thanks for joining!

[@mr_stemzmr_stemz3747]

Do you want to buy my built turbo crx?

[@crxseth]

The only thing I’m really looking for right now is a cheap 92-95 Civic sedan.

[@victorwilks88]

always giving us that high quality content !

[@oldskool1979]

Not a fan of soft alumimum suspension parts.. although lighter they bend easier or crack on the track... and possibly on the street., OEM Jap steel is way better for street use anyway

[@crxseth]

Yeah, for sub-$100, I doubt they are top notch in material choice. They are much easier to acquire than the OEM arms with the sway bar mounts.

[@rushmatic]

The likelihood of bending a rear suspension component is not that high unless you’re rallying of course 😅. It just makes sense to use these aluminum arms on a street car; worst case scenario replacing it with another aluminum arm down the road is so much more cost effective.