1995 Ford PSOM Repair

[@jimmt97pgt]

Just did this on my '95 F150, worked perfectly. The speedo started getting erratic, and progressively got worse to where it bounced between 30 and 80 MPH. Got all the parts listed from Mouser, soldered them in. The small surface mount diode was a PITA, the old one just popped off with basically not force at all but getting the new one in was tough. I did it like he did in the video. Soldering this board is hard, there is almost no metal on the board and it is very hard to get heat into it - you need a very small tip on the iron. Basically $5 worth of parts plus $8 shipping.

[@georgetoth1913]

My ‘95 f250 does the same thing only at a higher speed. Above 60 mph speedometer needle starts fluctuating. The faster the more fluctuations. At 80mph it’s moving more than 10 mph back and forth. I hope this fixes it

[@willfrench2616]

I am doing this repair on my 1996 E350, and that 4.7 uF cap for the speed sensor, is actually bipolar, not electrolytic. I ordered the parts from your list, and hopefully I'll install it in the correct polarity. Looks like someone else in the comments did the repair and it was successful

[@TAGUPNBLUE]

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I REPLACED THE PARTS AT YOU YOUR LIST. YOU HIT A HOME RUN IT TOOK 2 HRS TO DO. FOR 8 YEARS TO PUT UP WITH BAD SHIFT POINTS. IT TOOK 3 DAYS TO GET THE PARTS. ALL THE PART THEY HAD,, 2 CAPS 1 DIODE 1VASTER....IT WORK ON 1997 FORD 250 SAME BOARD

[@MapStain]

WHY ARE YOU YELLING???

[@toddsantora4399]

Why are YOU yelling???​@@MapStain

[@milly33able]

how could you ride for 8 years in limp mode?

[@simcha6414]

Has anyone done a video to actually test each part and what the correct readings should be . I'm a newbie at this stuff

[@mikep95133]

Hi xboxer1985. Great video as always. Just to let you know at 6:40 the diode you described is actually a 220uf electrolytic capacitor. Not picking on you, just lettin' you know.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Thanks bud! Likely the reason why I could not initially find it!

[@DBLDREW]

@@Bassguitarist1985 I dont suppose you have a part number or a link to that part? I looked up 226 20k 535 and got what looks like it called a Tantalum Capacitor not a electrolytic capacitor and it does not have the same 226 20k 535 number on it.

[@RodsAgEEk]

@@DBLDREW I'm a bit late to the game here, but find myself needing to do this repair. I don't have a part number for you, but you're correct that that is a tantalum capacitor, not an electrolytic capacitor. Tantalum caps are known to fail rather catastrophically when they do fail. You might be best to leave it alone if it looks okay.

[@jcinmi8598]

The second component you list is a capacitor and as shown above it is Mouser Part #:647-UMP1V4R7MDD. However the capacitor shown on the video at time 1:40 is Mouser #:667-ECE-A1VKS4R7I. Which capacitor is the correct one to use as both are available on the Mouser website? Thanks, Jeff

[@dontdoitdonnell4750]

So I've watched a bunch of these repair videos and traced everything I could find and replace but turns out that at the end of the wire harness it plugs into the top right side of the transmission and the plug was full of transmission fluid which is causing a short. Once I get that cleaned up it should fix the problem

[@billgrafmyre1876]

Great over all look at that board thanks

[@chrisbonner8652]

By any chance do what the resistor is that is between the resistor you replaced and the black box for the plug?

[@michaelhunt1115]

The top left pin on the 102095 is fried and melted. Do you have a diagram of this? I had transmission work a month ago and after that have had issues. Plus the lights on the dash go off unless i hit them before this happened. Thank you.

[@theawkwardmom]

Thank you for your video! Does this apply to a 1994 f-150 2x2?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

I beleive so yes. 98% sure

[@rickpodgorsek3791]

Hi, Did anyone come up with a part # for the part at 6:40? Diode, Electrolytic Capacitor, Tantalum Capacitor? Looks like a Tantalum Cap? Mine is fried, roached, burnt, post toasties. TY Have Great Day.

[@Avechuchoaxel]

DIP 8 legs it's a EEPROM 93C06 is where the mileage is stored

[@alexlaverick6111]

Thanks for the part numbers. one issue though. The capacitor numbers are reversed

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Thanks for the info

[@stepheneckles2345]

Nice video. Wanted to ask (if you get this) does this rework oft this area stop the needle bouncing of the speedo or is this just a transmission fix. I have a truck like this and a couple extra boards but my truck is a standard transmission model and the speedo jumps around at highway speed. Thanks for anything you can tell me :)

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Honestly cant say for sure. Electrolytic caps do dry out so changing thise could make a difference. I changed the parts the person reported back good results.

[@stepheneckles2345]

@@Bassguitarist1985 maybe I will try that there doesn't seem to be a transmission sensor just the ring gear one in the back. Thanks again

[@joeidaho5938]

The problem I'm having with my speedometer and odometer is that the Speedometer reads 30 to 40% too high...while the odometer reads 30 to 40% too low. Makes no sense at all. The speedometer is metric but when I check for the psom version, it shows an E for English or Imperial. It feels like the odometer is registering miles when it should be kms. The speedometer is acting like the psom thinks it's getting a mileage reading...and then increasing it to kms....lol. It's a real mess. I've had the truck for 13 years now and it's been the same all along. I've put on over 100k on the odometer...meaning I've done over 160k kms over that time. I'm thinking I just need to buy a new unit...although metric units are very hard to find, as opposed to finding imperial (english) speedometers. From a 1992 F250 gas 302 engine and e4od tranny....in Canada.

[@grayghost832]

I don't know how many versions there are of this board but I've seen 3 now. One that's in mine has one capacitor or diode as the guy called it on the phone that's smaller. There's another with 2 smaller capacitors right by each other. Then I've seen one with 2 but the second is right by the MOSFET sticking up about as high as the connector where you plug it in. And I have no idea what these little white potentiometer things are that the board in the video doesn't seem to have...

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Thank you for the info! Yeah I haven't worked on one of these since the video, but seems a lot of people have questions about it. I was flying blind when I repaired it, Im happy to report that the repairs I did perform the gentlemen reported good results when I returned it to him.

[@victormmarin1253]

What cable I need connect positive and negative on battery to know the miles of the cluster ??? I know connect to see the lights but I don't know what cable use to know the miles. I need help please

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Apologies i am unable to help. I only did component replace. I didn't do any research on pin outs when i had the PCB.

[@trentontaylor5447]

I really need help!!! I can't find any of this stuf. Can someone direct me into the right direction?

[@ottobalazs5174]

I have the PSOM tore apart. Diode is good, VAristor looks like its been hot and the resistor nest to the diode, Grey/white/yellow, is toasty looking and I cannot read any ohms across it. Would you know the value and wattage of that resistor ?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

I don't have the part anymore and I don't remember replacing a resistor the best I could say is maybe look at my video and see if you can read the color bands on the resistor. Thank you for watching and sorry I could not be of more help

[@ottobalazs5174]

@@Bassguitarist1985 ok. That was actually the diode I was looking at. Saw the color bands and thought it was a resistor. I ordered the parts you had in the video. My diode is def bad. Really appreciate the video. Helped me out a lot.

[@jkDLux1]

My PSOM has a white knob on it. I'm wondering what it's for. The tachs have a yellow knob

[@Bassguitarist1985]

jkDLux1 not sure

[@pirateroberts4411]

Do you offer rebuild services on the PSOMs ?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Sorry I do not.

[@patrickphippspa584]

Excellent video! I have two that need rebuilding right away. You or anyone reliable to refer to? Thanks so much, new sub.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Glad it helped! I dont know who I could recommend. Unfortunately my free time has been limited due to some life stuff and I'm unable to take on side work at this time. if you are good with a pencil soldering iron the parts are fairly easy for an intermediate skill person to repair.

[@LagmasterB]

Hey man, any idea where to source the component at 6:51? Is it a diode, directional resistor?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

220uf electrolytic capacitor

[@ShmeegleSon]

awesome video thank you!!!! saved me!

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Glad it helped!

[@CennyG]

What you have in your parts list as a "Rectifiers Rectifiers 1 amp 400 volt 30 amp IFSM" I believe Shadowrider460 referred to as a diode. Is it similar to a diode hence why he called it that? I'm not 100% sure what a rectifier is.

[@johngaltline9933]

All 3 months later, a diode is a type of rectifier. there are other types that exist as well, but the diode is the most common sort you're likely to run in to. very simplified, rectifiers direct the flow of electricity, with a diode acting like a one way valve. electricity can flow in one direction but not the other through it.

[@bigworm1978]

thank you man you know your stuff

[@jaycobyhyde2742]

What if you just replace the whole cluster? Wouldn’t that just fix it?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Not sure, i had limited experience with Fords. I only owned one Ford, a 94 Taurus, and man was that car a heavy POS. Tranny clutch piston cracked, and tons of cooling problems. No head gasket issue with the 3.0 though!

[@jaycobyhyde2742]

Bassguitarist1985 I had a problem with mine and I went to the junkyard and pulled one out of a truck and plugged in and it worked! Instead of 210k I now have 258k hahahahaha

[@edwinstorz702]

Yes Sir, here is that other youtuber thinking, maybe not though, i am having a shifting Problem, in town i have no problems, shifts nice and smooth, though i do have to turn my OD off because it will start going into OD at times, now while entering the Interstate it wants to shift hard but the OD is just fine, i am waiting on a new Computer hoping that might fix it, all my Guages do work and my OD light does not blink, i do here a weird noise under the dash, like a broken clock? Any help or hints would be nice, Thanks for the Video, yep you are that smart dude that always liked in High School, Thanks......

[@juanmazapan9044]

You make a great job have similar fault capacitor leaked traces destroyed

[@JoseMartinez-ep7hy]

Traductor in español por favor desde Venezuela gracias

[@JamesMisplaced]

Does anyone repair these? I don't have the ability to repair it but I need one fixed for my 1995 e150 van

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Apologies I do not. This was a great video to do helping out a previous customer but doing the rebuilds and not being able to verify proper function before returning to the customer is my main problem.

[@willemdodgerford5782]

Would this also work on a 94 psom?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

It is possible. I am not too familiar with Ford. A gentleman asked me years ago to replace these components. He was very knowledgeable of the history.

[@JCortes001]

Do you know what part is the one that stores the mileage?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

J Cortes no

[@johngaltline9933]

don't know that it will do you any good 2 years later as I come across this, but the 8 pin DIP IC is most likely an EEPROM that stores all of the data that is remembered between power cycles.

[@beornsen]

Thanks The Second Item seems to contain a "5" not and "S" my eyes saw an "S" but the order came up 667-ece-a1vk54r71

[@stepheneckles2345]

My question is what was the problem with the board and did it work correctly afterwards. I have a bouncing needle on my speedo and if that fixes it I would try to repair it. I contacted the other guy you mentioned but he did it for somebody and he didn;t know if it fixed the issue or not. Thanks

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Thats the same issue for me, the guy i did it for did not give me feedback that it fixed the problem.

[@JOHNAMOUS]

I am looking to replace the PNP transistor P1G52 but am unable to locate the part number or specs for it. Does anyone have any data on it "kzbin.info/www/bejne/rIHFpKmOZ6p8jcU" ?

[@azwb]

Parts list: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rIHFpKmOZ6p8jcU

[@richardyelich4695]

i JUST HAD MY SPEEDOMETER REPAIRED AND IT ONLY GOES TO 5 MPH AND THEN REPLACED THE VSS AND IT STILL ONLY GOES TO 5 MPH. hAVE ANY i DEAS .iT IS IN A 1997 DAMON DAYBREAKER MOTORHOME.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Have you changed all the electrolytic caps on the PSOM? If so and still doing what you describe I am not sure.

[@swedensy]

Every person who makes video about this module makes many mistakes and clearly is not good advisory to new repairman. 6:40 that is a capacitor. Blue 3 pin component is a kvarc component 1-8MHz

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Artjoms Pugacovs Agreed it is not the best video. I was unfamiliar with the module, did the best I could. I'm an electronic hobbyist. I dont see a video on your channel repairing this module yet you seem to know a lot about it

[@kenthuntsingersr7501]

@@Bassguitarist1985 dam you gently busted his chops. well done

[@bigworm1978]

can you please email or text me a parts list

[@Bassguitarist1985]

just added to the description of this video. Hope this helps.

[@bigworm1978]

I can't find transister is there a cross number

[@Bassguitarist1985]

the one on the heat sync in the to-220 package?

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Its a 5101FB from Motorola. I am having trouble finding a datasheet, but it is an NPN transitor, likley used for power supply

[@bigworm1978]

I found to-220 I bought it is that the same