1996 - 2000 Toyota Rav4 EGR VSV, Vacuum Switching Valve for EGR, Remove, Replace, Bench Test, P0401

[@L35inColorado]

Links for the EGR Diagnostics and EGR Valve and Pipe removal videos are below the Timestamps. 00:15 Part numbers for VSV 00:35 In place testing of the VSV and explanation of function 02:42 Key OFF test for VSV 05:06 Key ON test for VSV 09:05 Start process for VSV removal (shown on 4WD Rav4) 09:14 Locate the VSV using the vacuum hoses 09:50 Recommended to remove passenger side tire on 4WD for better access 10:00 Finding the VSV (look for blue electrical connector) 10:20 Disconnect blue electrical connector 11:12 Decide if you'll just leave old VSV in place, or try to remove it. If you're leaving the only VSV in place, skip ahead to 20:30 to see the hose removal and then bench testing. If you're removing the old VSV: 12:45 Remove transfer case dipstick 13:00 Disconnect tie rod end for more access if needed 14:56 Remove 12mm mounting bolt (firstly trying a little Gearwrench mini #85035, but failing) 16:30 Next trying a ratchet and failing again 17:33 Fitting an air ratchet in this tight space, air ratchet did the trick 19:57 Air ratchet and extension setup 20:29 Remove hoses from VSV 20:51 Remove hose bracket bolt 21:39 Disconnect hoses from Vacuum Modulator and EGR Valve 23:12 Bench testing the VSV 23:29 Resistance Tests 24:54 Flow Test 25:22 Switching Test 26:50 Test for leaks 28:43 VSV part numbers (Toyota #90910-12100 or Aisin VST-034) 29:06 Install VSV to new location on firewall (bolt is M6 x 1.00, about 15 mm long) 29:45 Remove battery and tray for better access 30:29 Bend tap on VSV bracket for better fit 30:42 Move blue electrical connector over towards firewall 31:33 If you have ABS, remove the 10mm bolt on the brake line bracket 31:47 Mount VSV in new location 32:15 Position and connect hoses to VSV 34:55 Modify hose bracket for better fit 36:37 VSV in place, in new location 38:07 Reinstall battery tray and battery 39:22 Reinstall 10mm bolt on back of engine and other bolts under engine 40:36 Replace transfer case dipstick 40:40 Reconnect tie rod end (17mm castle nut torque is 36 ft-lbs) and wheel (lug nuts: 76 ft-lbs) 41:36 Final check on hose and electrical EGR Diagnostics video with explanation, in-engine, and bench testing of EGR valve, Vacuum Modulator, and VSV: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppXTn55om5yapMU Video for removing the EGR Valve and pipe (and IAC Valve and Throttle Body): kzbin.info/www/bejne/hWTck2iIftGkhq8 Thanks for watching! Good luck with your repair!

[@csan255]

Hello, can you tell me what BRAND of hand held vaccum pump and brake bleeding hand pump you use in your shop? I have already used three vaccum and all of them were garbage even though they all have good reviews. That"s why I never trust those high reviews on Amazon. It just waste my time returning them. Thank you in advance for your help. You should post more videos. You help people like me.

[@L35inColorado]

​@@csan255 The vacuum pump shown in the video is a cheaper pump -- its from Harbor Freight, and it is this one below (link). It suits my needs, but I wouldn't say it's a great pump! The little button on the bottom is known to break. But for my purposes, it's fine for now (I don't run a shop): www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html That same pump is sold under different names. I got mine at Harbor Freight locally. However, if you're running a shop and need to use a better quality pump, then I would consider a MityVac MV8000, like this one: www.amazon.com/MV8000-Automotive-Tune-up-Brake-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS When my current pump eventually breaks, I will probably replace it with a MityVac since they are higher quality and tend to last longer. I hope this helps -- good luck!

[@acupunkCA]

What is that printed guide you're using? Maybe you've mentioned it but I couldnt seem to find where. Thanks! Love the videos!!! 🤩

[@rickyglaser]

Thanks so much for this. I have a 1996 Rav4 2WD and was able to follow along. I replaced the EGR modulator and then the EGR valve itself before realizing I had no choice but to do the VSV. Your instructions were easy for me to follow as someone not mechanically inclined. Check engine light is now officially off!

[@L35inColorado]

Wow, that's so great to hear - excellent work on your DIY, and for keeping your '96 on the road! Thanks for watching : )

[@yanisrenaud]

was it the problem? Or the vaccum lines were the problem?

[@Johnlevy-oj2gd]

Excellent demonstration! Purchased a 1997 AWD JDM RAV4, bringing it back to life. The EGR valve is completely absents from its vacuum lines, now I know where to start routing new. Thanks!

[@L35inColorado]

Wow, cool project!

[@stephendavid972]

This was a bit of a hassle to do, but your instructions were fantastic, and saved me big $ on a repair. Check engine light off and car running beautifully - thanks so much!

[@L35inColorado]

Outstanding -- well done!! I'm so glad the video helped, and great job on your repair!

[@lightandcolour]

Thank you L35 The mechanic told me that it is not worth doing it for a 1997 car. The fault code refers to the VSV solenoid. the problem is that the car has the engine light ON, and if another fault shows up I would not know about it. The car has only 153.000 Km, (82.650 miles) and it is in good shape. I will use your advise and ask the mechanic to relocate the new VSV to the firewall; although I could do it myself, I don't have the metric tools or location to perform the tasks that you so explicitly showed. Great video. Congratulations on a great job. Luis B.

[@L35inColorado]

I'm sorry I missed your comment -- I hope this worked out for you!

[@jer5208]

Thanks for the quick answer and video. Bad weather but soon will try to get this done. Video is awesome. Your the best! Thanks again.

[@johndowning3545]

This is about the best car-repair video I've ever used! Thanks L35 for this excellent product. I especially appreciate how you gave guidance on the products you used, including part numbers and order numbers. I followed the video carefully and it worked perfectly. I also replaced vacuum lines because the vsv held vacuum with the key on but lost vacuum with the key off and my finger over the end of the white marked hose. I figured there was a leak in the hose or a leak in the vsv after the solenoid. I bought a vsv on Amazon for about $20. Thanks again for taking the time to make this terrific video!

[@L35inColorado]

Wow, I'm so glad the video helped! Great job on repairing your Rav4! Thanks for the comment : )

[@johnb1099]

Thanks for a great job explaining how to replace the switching valve. Got it changed out and no check engine light and my Rav runs great!!!!

[@L35inColorado]

That's great - fantastic job on your DIY! Thanks for watching : )

[@isitreal1459]

Wow! Beautifully explained of how the system works, also clearly explained the proper testing procedures. I’m sure I have found my problem on my 2000 RAV4. Thank you 1 million!

[@jonhudson6981]

You are amazing. Thanks for this wonderful video. Amazing all the little details you thought to mention as you explained everything.

[@L35inColorado]

Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )

[@estegueydijo....]

Thank you, they replaced the EGR and modulator but not the SVS (laughs), and SVS it cannot hold vacuum when powered on and doesn't click when switch to on, harness terminals are providing power so I ordered a new SVS and possibly that is causing the P0401 Thank you for taking the time to create these videos **very helpful**.

[@docjody8624]

R&R'd my EGR VSV today without a hitch. Watched this video a couple times. It was integral to my success. 1998 RAV4 2x4 manual. Put it up on the hydraulic lift. Found it right away (thanks to your still-photos & arrows). PB Blaster on 12-mm. bracket bolt. Wait 10-min. Came right out using 3/8-in. ratchet Driver + 3-in. "LONG" 12-mm. socket. THANK YOU for a magnificent job. Wondering what the Stealership would've charged me for this Remove & Replace (R&R)? Congratulations on a brilliant, helpful, useful, incredibly detailed video w/ great red circles, red arrows, torques, references, and "Where to jump to if you have a 2x4, not this 4x4." You made it EEDJIT-PROOF! THANKS AGAIN!!!

[@L35inColorado]

Wow, thank you for your comment, and for sharing your tips! I'm so glad the video helped. Thanks again and I hope this solves your EGR issue! : )

[@jims2507]

Thanks so much for the video (and the video for the EGR valve and the IAC valve). Camry 2.2L. The Camry air intake pipes had a M10_1.5 threaded hole in easy reach from the bottom of the car, and I made use of that to relocate the new VSV valve. It felt like it wasn't a very strong hole, so I only turned it in 5 Ft-lbs, and put threadlocker blue on it to help hold. It could have been the swivel socket slipping, but I did not want to strip the threads!! I had the P0401, P0300 (random misfires when stumbling), and I've had the car idle up and down after letting it sit for 15 minutes to 45 minutes. We also had it stall, and not restart for some time. I think my VSV valve fails when the engine is hot causing the P0401. I replaced the EGR valve and cleaned the IAC. No codes, no idling issues, no stumbling, no stalling now!! I had to drill out one of the bolts between the EGR pipe and EGR valve, it was REALLY rusted in the EGR valve and EGR pipe bolt hole, even through the pipe hole is not threaded.

[@SuperK5593]

Just replaced mine today (been procrastinating it for about a week). This video was probably the most helpful that I've seen for the 4WD Ravs. Thanks for uploading.

[@L35inColorado]

Right on! Yes, the 4WD is tougher to reach than the 2WD. Well done, and thanks for your comment!

[@ricepony33]

Thank you, I wish you narrated all repair videos.

[@L35inColorado]

Thanks! And thanks for watching : )

[@mikeriverajr4447]

wow man, thank you so much, just found your channel because im doing the timing belt BUT wow, your one of the few mechanics that a actual diagnostic technician as opposed to the stereo typicall part replacer

[@L35inColorado]

Wow, thanks for your comment! I'm so glad the videos are helpful -- yes, I'm always trying to learn more diagnostics! Good luck with your repair and Merry Christmas : )

[@bryanh2170]

Wow! Superb instructions and explanation! Just here to learn how to test VSV and I do not own Rav4 but i ended up watching the whole video lol

[@daveflores6584]

You are amazing! Best attitude ever...the results are great. My problem is attitude while diving into repairs. Somehow you keep a level head through it all! Love it!!!

[@L35inColorado]

Thank you, that's very kind! Talking to the camera (and to myself!) helps me to keep my attitude in check and on the right path; shooting the videos has helped me learn more patience too, which is very useful for any repair work! Good luck, and thanks for your comment : )

[@WillJacksonNW]

Thank you for this, came in handy especially in diagnosing if the egr itself were bad of the solenoid. I found the pigtail on the 1999 AWD rav4 I worked on was too short for the solenoid relocation. I did find that with the battery removed It was far easier to get access from the top to the small 10mm holding the 2 hoses. I just reached in with the wheel off the passenger side to get the 12mm for the solenoid itself. Thank you so much for this!

[@L35inColorado]

Thank you, and thanks for watching and adding your tips! : )

[@frankstetka7206]

I really like your voice, I actually fell asleep listening to this video just because I like the calm manner and the great deductive reasoning skills; too bad I am probably missing the point 🥰 😆, alright dreams of osmosis aside this is one of the best diagnostic auto repair videos I have seen yet. I feel I could send this video to almost anyone who is handy and be confident that they could fix an issue with this circuit; thank you L35

[@L35inColorado]

Wow, thanks -- I'm glad the video is helpful, whether for sleeping or repair! : ) I also sometimes listen to videos to fall asleep, so I know exactly what you mean, haha! : )

[@rickegarner8111]

Great tutorial. My EGR valve works when you apply vacuum to it directly. Now just need to diagnose whether it's bad electrical or bad VSV valve. Thanks 😃

[@rolomusik]

Tengo un Toyota Avensis 2001 T22, mismo motor 3S-FE y me desconectaron mangueras debajo el motor y con tu video puedo revisar la correcta conexión, muchas gracias, saludos desde Chile. I have a 2001 T22 Toyota Avensis, same 3S-FE engine and they disconnected the hoses under the engine and with your video I can check the correct connection, thank you very much, greetings from Chile.

[@alanbirdsell9591]

I just started getting the nasty P0401 error a few weeks ago and was dreading having to change this, but have the part on the way. I had to replace the VSV when I first got my Rav4 I got the old one off and I can't remember when I swore so much and still had to take it to someone to finish the job. The idea I can just relocate it is worth the price of admission! Thank you!

[@L35inColorado]

Yes, it is a major pain! Since you have another one VSV coming in the mail, just disconnect the electrical, disconnect the hoses, and mount the new VSV on the firewall. It is much easier to reach! I just posted a couple other EGR related videos today and yesterday. As you know, the P0401 is often caused by the VSV, but there are other possibilities, including a restricted exhaust passage on the EGR pipe and/or EGR valve, since P0401 is EGR flow "insufficient". I step through some tests in this video below (skip ahead to the different parts) that you might want to check out to narrow down the issue in case its not the VSV: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppXTn55om5yapMU Good luck, and thanks for your comment!

[@alanbirdsell9591]

@@L35inColorado Well, I just finished doing the deed. Seems the place I took it too took a relocation shortcut . I couldn't find it anywhere it was supposed to be. I tried to follow the vacuum lines down and finally found it all stuffed up under the intake manifold. It was a pain to untangle but it has it's new home on the firewall. Hopefully Murphy's law says because it is now easy to access I will never have to look at it again!

[@jsaq08]

Best vsv testing I’ve seen.

[@L35inColorado]

Thank you -- good luck! : )

[@vincentchoo7471]

This is a clear and informative video. The explanation provided by the author is clear and reassuring. Thanks for the awesome video.

[@L35inColorado]

Thanks for watching!

[@devonblaine]

Masterful tutorial! Subscribed 👍

[@L35inColorado]

Thanks! Thanks for subscribing, and thanks for watching! : )

[@emadalomary8467]

Dear L35 in Colorado- - Thank you so much for this uniqe, detailed, professional, simplified, and finally vey enjoying. Best Wishes.Emad Alomary Mech Engineer and Math teacher from Orlando Florida.

[@L35inColorado]

Wow, thanks! I'm so glad you like the video! : )

[@tommytakberg4274]

Спасибо за видео. Получил всю информацию по электромагнитному клапану EGR, как проверить и как подсоединить. Хотя и на английском, но я все понял.

[@excaliburmining6194]

super thorough video, thank you so much fo all your work on sharing this!

[@L35inColorado]

Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )

[@yosh7829]

Much appreciation, very detailed explanation.

[@L35inColorado]

Thanks for watching!

[@davidevans1128]

Damn Good video my man👍 These days any tips learned saves precious money 👌 Thanks again.

[@L35inColorado]

I'm a woman, but thanks! : ) Thanks for watching, and good luck!

[@highpockets4748]

Extremely helpful and thorough

[@L35inColorado]

Thank you for watching! : )

[@xerxes7500]

your videos save my ass every single time. can't thank you enough.

[@L35inColorado]

Great job doing your DIY -- thanks for watching! : )

[@benjaminlinus6555]

Today I was speaking with a female at a business who was helping with some car stuff. Later in the day I'm randomly watching your videos, after searching for "flange repair." And as I'm watching your video I thought, "her voice sounds just like that lady earlier today." I looked at your youtube profile name, and it says (obviously) "in Colorado." AND, the lady I spoke with today told me she just moved here FROM Colorado (and I made some jokes about the people in this state can be jerks). It was a fairly brief and uneventful chat. But it was quite a coincidence. And I'm pretty sure what I'm describing is JUST a coincidence, but thought I'd ask. Also: I curtailed the details in my story, and I'm not trying to get into your business. BUT, if you ARE the same person, all this will make sense & you'll get a laugh. SIDE NOTE: You're very talented regarding the manner in which you explain everything, and your mastery is evident in the projects you're working on. Also, the little extras you pop into the screen w/ diagrams and whatnot are very helpful. Thank you!

[@L35inColorado]

I'm sorry I missed your comment! Haha, that's funny about your experience -- I am still in Colorado, so that was a different woman you were speaking with. Haha, but that's a funny coincidence, for sure. Thanks for watching, and I'm glad you like the videos!

[@ws4835]

I managed to get the vsv valve off from the top going through the engine bay using a borsecope camera and a ratchet with wobble extension. literally used the camera to see where the vsv was and where my socket was going. Managed to get it off in about 10 minutes that way on my 2000 Camry Le. Definitely re installing it to a more accessible area.

[@L35inColorado]

Great tip -- thanks for sharing! Yes, it is in a tough spot. Is there a similar mounting point on your Camry's firewall to use as a new spot, like there is on the Rav4?

[@ws4835]

@@L35inColorado there’s some bolts down on the fire wall where I think I can definitely undo the nut and have it retain the vsv to the fire wall. I am waiting on the new vsv to show up. I have no idea why the Toyota engineers put the vsv down there to begin with. I’m just glad I was able to get it off without having to get under the car. My vsv was however very dirty and covered with oil. I recently replaced the valve cover gasket so I hopefully shouldn’t have much oil leaking after that.

[@L35inColorado]

@@ws4835 I have no idea why Toyota engineers put it down there either! Thanks for sharing your tips and please post back with any more tips you find during installation of the new VSV on your Camry : )

[@ws4835]

@@L35inColorado I thought I replied to this before but I guess it didn’t show up. Hope this helps others facing this problem. so I finally got the new part installed like 2 days ago. I bolted it onto the intake plenum on the passenger side. There’s a bolt hole that’s threaded there and nothing attached so I used the 10mm bolt that was securing the insulator sleeve on the vacuum lines to the EGR VSV. I pushed some compressed air through the vacuum lines to make sure they were clean and clear. There was a lot of old oil on my EGR VSV and the plug so I used QD electronic cleaner from CRC to clean the line. (Disconnected the battery first per the instructions.) I loosely zip tied the vacuum lines to the hard tube on the firewall going to the MAP sensor. Loose because I didn’t want to clamp shut the vacuum lines. I took the new EGR VSV and flipped it on the bracket so that it’s not on the recessed side of the bracket but rather on the flat (opposite side of Factory orientation) side. Used the same screw and tab to secure it. I did this because it moves the vsv about an inch closer so the electrical connector doesn’t have to strain as much to reach it. I then connected everything up and it’s been running fine for over 100 miles. I plugged in my scan tool to look at the monitors and the EGR monitor is clear now where as before it would not clear and would immediately go off after 10 or so miles of driving.

[@L35inColorado]

@@ws4835 Wow, thanks for sharing these tips! This sounds like a solution for your Camry -- well done! : )

[@Niko-ht3ih]

Well thank you very much

[@lanazaakat9466]

Amazing video ! Thank you. My friend changed this VSV on my 1997 camry 4 cyl. I remember he hoisted the car in his workshop and used the socket wrench inserted in a long cheater bar to open the bolt from underneath. Then, he reached the hoses with his hands all the way, while standing under the hoisted car. This vsv is really difficult to get to. You did great showing us how to change its location altogether !! Smart Move !!

[@L35inColorado]

Thank you! Yes, this VSV has made a lot of knuckles bloody and bruised because of where Toyota put it...what where they thinking? Haha. And yes, the firewall location was thought up by someone (not sure who) a few years ago over on the Rav4world forum. It is a good solution, especially when you simply can't remove that bolt (sometimes they round off or are too rusty). Thanks for watching and thanks for you comment!

[@SomebodysNephew]

Is there any way about this without messing with the tire and ball joint? Like a special tool I can use? I have check engine light for the EGR Valve. Gonna replace the hoses first and foremost and clean it...but if I must replace it I can still remove the tire. Just wondered if I can go about it without doing that. Great video, though! Exactly what I was looking for!

[@L35inColorado]

There are a few different components that cause the various EGR system codes, so if you're not yet sure the cause of your code and would like to do some troubleshooting on the system, check out this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppXTn55om5yapMU As for access - yes, it's possible to reach the VSV without removing the tire. For the AWD model, you can reach it from above if you remove the battery and the battery tray: it's not fun, but it is possible. For the 2WD, you can reach it from below. Of course, the alternate is do what what's mentioned in the video and just leave the old on the place, buy a new one (if that's the part you need to resolve the code) and mount it on the firewall, as shown. For the EGR valve, here is a video that shows the cleaning process - the EGR valve is easily accessed from above on the driver's side: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hWTck2iIftGkhq8 Check the Pinned Comments in those videos to skip around, because they are both very long and detailed. I hope that helps - good luck! : )

[@jcmack706]

Great video very informative. Im having egr issues on my toyota tacoma 1998 2.4l. Hopefully following your procedures in video ill be able to fix it. Thank You.

[@freestyleskyline]

Great job on the video very informative and easy to follow

[@L35inColorado]

Thank you! : ) Good luck on your repair!

[@Mr2pint]

Well done great tutorial I'll be referring to this when I fix an old 5sfe motor.

[@L35inColorado]

Thank you -- good luck!

[@nickaa827]

Great video! Currently facing a p0401 that came up recently for my 99 rav. Cleaned modulator and egr valve, both are very carboned up because my engine burns so much oil. Found my VSV hanging loosely under the intake, with all hoses and electrical connector attached to the VSV, but VSV attached to nothing. Going to test that next. Hoping I can find the problem.

[@robertboyer3201]

Thanks for this video!

[@robertalfonso9114]

Your videos for the RAV4 are great and have been very helpful. I have a question about having to replace the vacuum hoses. Where or how do I find the correct sizes for all the vacuum hoses?

[@L35inColorado]

Thanks! Here is a thread from rav4world.com which discusses vacuum hoses at length, and the author replaced his original hoses with silicone hoses, if you're interested in that - but either way, there's a lot of info in the thread! Click on the "See more" at the bottom of the first post to show the pictures, because the pictures are very helpful: www.rav4world.com/threads/vacuum-line-replacement-with-high-temp-silicone-lines.255961/ What's nice about his thread is that you can tell the hose diameter by the color, using the key he mentions in the first post. That will give you a good idea about hose sizes, if you need to order hose online. Alternatively, what I typically do is simply cut off the deformed end of the hose so that I have a good cross-section for reference, then take it to an auto parts store and compare with what they have. Advance Auto, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, etc, sell various types of automotive hose by the foot (usually about $1 or $2/foot), so it is very affordable. You'll simply be looking for a fit that has the same/very close inside diameter so that when your new hose fits snuggly onto the fittings. The outside diameter of the hose isn't as important, and it is okay to use a thinner or thicker walled hose (ie, silicone is thinner walled than regular hose), as long as the inside diameter is the correct size so that you get a good, snug fit and no air leak. I hope that helps - thanks for watching! : )

[@lanazaakat9466]

Please show a video on Toyota Camry Starter. Symptoms of bad starter, disassembly, replacing brushes etc. They cost a fortune to replace. So, people who can't afford expensive mechanics, can save money. Thanks.

[@L35inColorado]

Yes, if I get the chance to do that job and film it, I will definitely make a video. Thanks for the comment!

[@roopekallio6020]

Hi! Thats awesome video and very helpful! I just started wondering diagnostics, that how does this system detects if egr is totally clogged, but valve still moving up and down? Is map sensor monitoring that pressure difference between egr closed and open, or how it can detect it? Best regards from Finland, great videos, because car is totally new to me!

[@veintiunico5326]

awesome video!!

[@L35inColorado]

Thanks, and thank you for watching! : )

[@damonmichaels6708]

There are quite a few videos out there on P0401 code. This one is the best I've found. The re- mounting location is wise and should be employed. Can anyone give me a good reason why Toyota buried the VSV on the back of the engine? Thank you very much. Excellent video! Richard Caldwell

[@blackdiamondoffthegrid8703]

Awesome Content!

[@L35inColorado]

Thanks! : ) Thanks for watching!

[@Frank-NYC]

Nice video. Thanks

[@L35inColorado]

Thanks for watching : )

[@Niko-ht3ih]

Great video

[@L35inColorado]

Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )

[@jameshegarty2394]

thanks for this video! I'm replacing a faulty modulator in my 97 4wd but if that doesn't fix 401 code I will need to tackle the VSV

[@CemeTradingLDA]

Hi There, Your video's are exceptionally presented and very helpful. I have an earlier model 95 Rav4 petrol that was experiencing intermitent loss of power that got better then worsened and progressed to inlet backfire. I have checked the throttle body and found one vacuum pipe cracked, whic I replaced. I replaced spark plugs (old ones looked normal), eng oil and fuel / Oil filters. The fuel filter was dirty, so I then checked the fuel pump and tank, the tank was clean. I suspected the dirty fuel filter and cracked vacuum pipe to be the source of faults, however the symptoms remain. Can to give me any further advice. Joe

[@janomuller7820]

Thanks for the great vid , I have the first addition Rav 4 1997 that I bought a couple of months ago , but it is running very rich and does not react to any adjustments , the vacuum hoses are a big mess some blanked of some cut and T's fitted , a big mess !!! Please let me know if you know of any site that might have a hose diagram for this car ,I tried getting one from the agent but no luck.

[@L35inColorado]

Look up on the inside of the hood, and there should be a vacuum hose diagram. Check out this great thread on Rav4world which also has some information that might help you: www.rav4world.com/threads/vacuum-line-replacement-with-high-temp-silicone-lines.255961/ Good luck!

[@carlokhechoomian9188]

Awesome

[@acetek2]

the VSV held vacuum pressure when energized and kept holding it when key was pulled out, any thoughts? ECU or wiring perhaps?

[@ericczarnowsky6328]

I’m planning on replacing my vsv and installing the new one in the suggested new location. Could I just replace the hoses altogether and leave the old vsv and hoses where they are to avoid removing the brackets? I’d reroute electrical since that seems simple. Please let me know! Thx great video.

[@L35inColorado]

Yes, as seen in the video, you can just leave your old VSV in place, and if you use new hoses or just shorten the old hoses, you don't need the little hose bracket that's held in place by the 10mm on the back on the engine, so you can leave it there. Just make sure that your new hose routing is safe from contact with the hot parts of the engine. The electrical connection is long enough to each the old location without any modification, its just hard to get your hand down in there, but it can be done. If your hoses are still good, just reach in and cut them where you can can, and route them to the new VSV location on the firewall. If you have a 4WD model, it really does help to remove the right side tire in order to reach the electrical connection and disconnect it from the old VSV. But, if you can't remove the tire, then remove the battery and reach in from the top. If you have a 2WD you can reach the electrical from below -- just hop the front wheels up on a curb and slide under if you don't have jackstands. Good luck!

[@ericczarnowsky6328]

L35 in Colorado Thanks! I have the 4x4 so I will first try to reach it from the top. Then try removing it from behind the wheel.

[@averywarenski6847]

I think mine is bad. After looking at where the hoses go, someone before I owned mine decided to relocate it... The new location is zip-tied to the heater hoses. So no wonder mine failed. I have the PO446 code though. Hope this fixes it.

[@L35inColorado]

Oh boy, that's an interesting placement by the previous owner, haha! Just as a heads up, the P0446 code is actually for the EVAP system, not the EGR system. It can be a little confusing because the EVAP system also has a VSV -- its called the "VSV for EVAP", and is located by the charcoal canister (the VSV in the video is called the "VSV for EGR"). The EVAP system controls the evaporative fumes/vapors from the fuel tank, and consists of the gas cap, the fuel tank, several hoses, the charcoal canister, the VSV for EVAP , the Vapor Pressure Sensor, and a couple other components. The EVAP system is not connected to the EGR system: it is an emissions system, though, because they consider the gas vapors to be "emissions". That EVAP code P0446 is sometimes set off by a faulty gas cap, but there are a couple other possible causes, including the VSV for EVAP. CHek out this thread: www.rav4world.com/threads/code-p0446.286729/ Good luck!

[@averywarenski6847]

@@L35inColorado I was mistaken. Mine is the P0441. Everything I find say that that vsv for egr will fix it. However I have both on the way

[@averywarenski6847]

Are you on that forum? We should chat on there! Haha

[@L35inColorado]

@@averywarenski6847 Okay, yes -- P0441 is also EVAP system, and could be the VSV for the EVAP (other possible causes are vacuum hoses and the gas tank cap). This is an old document, but its a TSB for the gen-1 Rav4 regarding the P0441 and P0446: www.autocodes.com/uploads/toyota/EG003-98.pdf Good luck!

[@averywarenski6847]

@@L35inColorado hopefully replacing that vsv will fix that. Haven't had that code appear since I replaced it. Currently battling the P0401 code after I broke the other vsv. Won't be in until Thursday. :(

[@Persevereaza]

Hi. I have the same exact engine 3S-FE and one issue: for the next 5 minutes after the engine start there is a gas smell in the cabin. Do you have an idea where this could come from? Thank you.

[@L35inColorado]

This sounds like an "EVAP" or evaporation emissions control issue. On the 3SFE, the EVAP system is a charcoal canister with its own VSV (vacuum switching valve) and several hoses: the charcoal canister on the Rav4 is in the engine bay, tucked in under the fuel filter (fuel filter is bolted to the driver's side wheel well). The purpose of the EVAP system is to control gasoline vapor from the fuel tank and prevent it from getting into the atmosphere, so the vapor is sent to the engine to be mixed in with the air mix. You might have a leak in an EVAP hose, which would cause that gasoline smell: here is a video that shows an EVAP system -- this isn't exactly the same as the Rav4's EVAP system, but its very similar and you can use it as a guide to look for the various hoses: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nWXPeauJdt6Zba8 In that video, he mentions the Vapor Pressure Sensor: on the Rav4, this is the sensor that's mounted high on the firewall on the driver's side, and has one hose and one electrical connector. The VSV for the EVAP on the Rav4 is bolted to the top of the charcoal canister. You might have a switching problem, but I would start by making sure all your hoses are good, because a simple hose leak can cause that gasoline smell. Good luck!

[@welcome2myworld1.o89]

By any chance would you have any recommendations on how to change the power steering hoses? I have to change the two main hoses that go to the reservoir. But right now at this moment I’m struggling with undoing the hose on the pump side because someone put the clip in a stupid spot where you cant easily get to it to take it off! LOL anyways any advice and tips would be much appreciated.

[@MrTwanch]

How much does this usually cost to repair at a shop?

[@walterchrist5139]

L35....I have a 1991 Toyota truck 4x4 22re engine ....I have a real bad Surging Ideal I have replaced the ...Throttle position sensor and just can not get it to quit ........................Surging

[@lawrencepriest-stafford3086]

Love it

[@L35inColorado]

Thanks for watching! : )

[@timothylages6586]

Do you happen to know how to pull the vapor canister out?

[@L35inColorado]

Yes, aka the charcoal canister -- once you get down to it (you have to remove the air box and whatever else is in the way), you then pull UP on the canister. It can be very snug: there's an alignment boss on the back of it that fits into a metal feature in the engine bay. Once you have everything out of the way and all the fasteners out, you pull up on the canister to get it out. Look at the third picture on this one ebay listing, and you'll see the alignment bosses that I'm talking about -- it can be a little stubborn, but you just keep rocking it side to side and pulling UP and will slide out: www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Vapor-Canister-for-1999-Toyota-Rav-4-/312912198734 I also remove the two fasteners holding that fuse box in place that's above the air box to give a little more room. Good luck!

[@timothylages6586]

@@L35inColorado thank you SOOOOOOOO much, that thing was giving me a brain aneurism just finding it and then after I cleared a path to it I had no idea how to free it so you are definitely a life saver

[@L35inColorado]

@@timothylages6586 I know exactly what you mean -- it got me the first time I did it, too! Haha, good luck with the repair!

[@jjazz.15]

Would u be able to know how to fix a trippy odometer speedometer it works randomly took it to a shop said there getting al the readings from wiring and sensor I need help

[@L35inColorado]

If the instrument cluster is getting the readings, then there's a chance that the problem is in the instrument cluster itself. If you have a junkyard near you that has Rav4's, you can usually get a used cluster for about $25, and replacing the instrument cluster is very easy and you can do it yourself. If you swap in a used cluster and you still have problems, then the issue is the wiring or the speedometer sensors. Good luck!

[@maherahmed1977]

Hello, I have RAV 4 keeps giving me the code 2418, the dealership said it is the purge valve while in reality the purge valve is working, and I changed it and still giving me the same code with VSC and trac off light also, some said it is the pressure valve sensor and I changed it and the same code, what can I do please

[@L35inColorado]

It sounds like you have a newer Rav4: the generation shown in this video does not include VSC or traction control systems (so my video does not cover what you're looking for). With that said, the P2418 code is generically an EVAP code. EVAP means the evaporative emissions control, which is a system intended to reduce gasoline vapor emissions; it is a different system than the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system shown in the video. I don't know your particular model, but EVAP systems do often include VSV's (vacuum switching valves) and purge valves, as you mentioned. Some also include vacuum pumps that apply vacuum to periodically test the system for leaks. The most common source of leaks in the EVAP system is the gas cap -- either the gas cap is not on all the way (ie, turned until it "clicks" a couple times) or the gas cap itself is faulty (the gas cap might have been dropped and cracked, etc). If you're sure that your gas cap is good, then I would start moving upstream from the gas tank on components with a focus on any valves and connections (where leaks can occur) and also a focus on the electrical connections (P2418 could be also be an electrical fault). You might check out www.rav4world.com and search the forums there for your particular generation. There is a ton of useful info and there and some very helpful and knowledgeable participants! Good luck!

[@user-ys3dj9tt3e]

Hi ✋, my work W163 EV , can help

[@osirisfornever8299]

Would the vcv cause a no start

[@L35inColorado]

No, it would not.

[@osirisfornever8299]

@@L35inColorado what about the egr valve?

[@Photostudioww]

The vsv will fail when car is hot. But work fine when cool. Most of the time.

[@L35inColorado]

Yes, that happens (that's why the bench test isn't perfect!). Have you replaced it and it is still have issues? If so, can you check the circuit itself?

[@Photostudioww]

@@L35inColorado yes I put a new one and code went away👍

[@L35inColorado]

@@Photostudioww Nice! Thanks for updating : )

[@Chris2jz]

I'm way too high for this

[@mistermerita341]

Thank you