1998 Chrysler AC Repair (Part 2) -Fixing it Forward

[@Carpartkings]

Happy we could help Barbara out with an AC Compressor!!

[@jasonldrummer]

I had one these vans .... actually the same year and when I saw you replacing the belt reminded me about how much trouble I had with my belt. When I drove through a puddle the belt would come off! What a nightmare. So, the Gates Corp. has a fix that required a new tensioner and idler pulley with a lip to keep it from slipping off. Love the videos keep up the great work!

[@Backstabbio]

With you on the light comment. I often feel that the damn things are fighting me more than whatever I'm working on. I had mine fall and smack me right in the mouth the other day. I saw it coming, but, you know, I thought that maybe there was a chance it wouldn't happen. Maybe there was a chance, but my mouth still hurts.

[@leightonelliott3140]

Thank you for taking the old one apart I was always wondering what they looked like.

[@hanky97007]

Hey Eric head ups. I replaced 2 o-rings that seal the timing cover to the block because of a leak. These o-rings were badly deformed. Timing chain was replaced also due to some serious stretch. Engine had 161,000 miles when I did this and now run great again.

[@veterandd214]

good work dude... you explain so much....I'm also a mechanic and i like how you explain it. Makes it easier to understand for those who are learning.

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

Hey, Eric! In the future- may I suggest using an auxiliary "box" fan (or similar) placed in front of the evaporator- *before and during* the *entire* charging process. The cooler you can get the system- the faster it will accept the refrigerant, and compress it easier, and it will allow more of a charge for "reserve cooling" such as in stop & go traffic- especially with a large area dual-system like this. It looks like a water pump & oil pan gasket are in need- then a good degreasing; that must smell awful when hot- oil, ATF, antifreeze, gunk & grime!

[@TCEncore209]

I have been looking forward to this part of this project as I have a Dodge Caravan of the same Generation (2000) having a/c issues. Well, I *had* one until I hit a deer a couple days ago and it wiped out the front end completely. It's now on its way to the scrapyard.😠

[@obadiah7771]

I find intriguing that you can look at a bolt and know the size. I have been enjoying your vids for a long time!

[@bneyens]

It's not hard

[@ohblondi]

obadiah7771 That just comes with time.

[@bg147]

Bob Marley That's what she....

[@Stevennnnnnnnn]

Been watching ETCG for a long time now, and maybe I just haven't noticed, but the video quality is excellent! Great quality!

[@dizzolve]

Thanks for the Town & Country vids - nice job Eric

[@raypierce7129]

Have you ever thought about getting a Coast Head lamp. I have the same "relationship with my drop light. All that went away when i bought my first one. The one I have is rechargeable. I bought a 2nd one to have ready at a moments notice and they are BRIGHT! Been using them for about 5 years now, VERY HAPPY. I highly recommend it.

[@Brandonvscars695]

Wish I could see the happy look on her face when she gets her car back. If she'd be cool with it, maybe have a reveal video of the finished van to its owner? haha

[@based_will]

+1

[@ThomasJoseph315]

This video just reminded me how much I hated working in shops, lol.. thanks!

[@Papa_Pasghetti]

Who the hell gives ETCG's videos a thumbs down?Especially these where all he does is fix people's cars for free?!Fu#%ing haters...

[@ericthecarguy]

Let's finish up the AC work on Barbara's van and cool off for a bit. kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6unipWZe9KVqZY

[@bigmorris100]

EricTheCarGuy from watching the previous videos of the radiator replacement i noticed the dirty state of the condensers. maybe that's why the temp didn't reach down to 50

[@loganmcnamara1156]

Eric I was working on a escape on a horn issue and noticed a few rows of core all pushed in on the condenser and have been having trouble with the ac not being ice cold it is cold but not as cold when I first got the car when it gets recharged it works for a few months then slowly it goes back to the cool state wouldn't this cause the system to loose all refrigerant and does it need to be replaced right away

[@papiog6087]

EricTheCarGuy Never even touched an AC system, wish you had explained the octopus tool better but with all the discount places willing to recharge AC systems I guess it's no big deal. Last thing I need is another tool that might see 5 uses in my lifetime like my wiper puller.

[@TopShotta713]

Bro can you check out my video of my car acting funny please, I need it for school and don't know what's wrong with it, been to the mechanic 3 times and haven't fixed the issue

[@MrHemi4spd]

+PimpDaddy713 Remove IAC valve and check for sooty deposits that won't allow the pintle to close completely. If the pintle can't close fully the PCM tries to compensate for this resulting in a constantly changing iac metering, this will cause the symptoms seen in your video. Also check on the backside of the throttle vane(butterfly) as coked oil will form a ridge behind the vane and restrict or close off idle air from getting through the throttle body. In this case the IAC will try to compensate for lack of idle air and cause the symptoms seen in your video. If those two suggestions aren't the issue then perhaps there is a vacuum leak or air leak of some kind. Look for torn,cracked hoses, loose clamps ect ect...

[@danpalf2819]

There's something oddly satisfying about the sound of the vacuum pump.

[@barnekkid3962]

EricTheCarGuy, you're a good person.

[@levymillenium86]

Barbara essentially has a new car! Go Barbara!

[@BrucesShop]

Barbara is a lucky gal!!! Bruce

[@dvddmc]

Lube it up before Putting it in! LOL By the way Eric thanks for opening up that compressor never knew what one looked like inside. little mini engine

[@jimsjacob]

Great video Eric. I have a failed A/C on my 93 Maxima SE and you covered all the items I've been suspecting I'd need to address. Including the replacement of the dryer. Mine is buried in the dash somewhere. You mentioned being able to "flush" the system? I'm hoping your related links cover this as I don't want to have to replace that dryer. Keep the great videos coming!

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

Hey, Eric! *@**14:56* I noticed you *changed your gloves.* Thank you

[@65blablabla]

great job Eric

[@treowayne]

You might want to clean the melted rubber off of that tensioner pulley. It could be the source of your noise.

[@ElectoneGuy]

I keep looking at that oil pan gasket Eric...

[@bizbot1655]

Audioquest56 ...and the leaky valve cover gasket too.

[@MrHemi4spd]

That's how chryslers rustproof themselves lol

[@bg147]

Audioquest56 Are you encouraging the production of an additional repair video?

[@genehensley767]

I wish everyone who did videos on KZbin had a camera that shot images as well as yours it's easy on the eyes

[@haydenc2742]

Nice fix man...boy howdy that vehicle has seen some better days...hopefully with a skilled mechanic the Preventative Maintenance will be done instead of just driving it till something breaks... Great job and pay it forward...

[@royleblanc2939]

You set that ac system up for failure, by not replacing the storage tank(receiver/accumulator) you left moisture in the system which will turn the refrigerant into acid which will slowly eat up the compressor.

[@aaronphx420]

Eric, I bought like 3 pounds of freon in 3 cans and I put it in my vehicle after replacing a high side line and I wasn't happy with the results of my ac work. So, I went to my local shop and had them do a evac and recharge and the tech told me he only got 17oz of freon out. I was like WTF? So needless to say I don't but cans anymore lol. But I understand it wasn't in the budget but damn sure wish you had a ac recharging machine. That compressor would be working 40°F magic right now.

[@dunebasher1971]

Aaron Johnson It's not freon. Freon is R12, and *only* R12, and nobody has sold that in cans for a long time. What you bought is R-134a, and the other name for that is norflurane.

[@gerryroberson1978]

Am I the only one who cheered when he said he is going to take it apart?

[@moneygeewtee]

Great job Eric!!!

[@Tedybear315]

Interesting question re training. When I was trained in auto A/C 25 years ago, and I've done it this way ever sense with excellent results. We where always trained to only add the R12 (yeah I'm old) in vapor form to the low/suction side. As it's not possible to compress a liquid was the theory, and by having the suction side bring liquid R12 into the system can seize the compressor. The other tech in the shop I worked at swore to only add liquid and we used to have heated 'debates' (pardon the pun) over the correct way. My way of using only vapor took longer then adding liquid his way. However I felt it was safer and at the end of the recharge the A/C always blew ice cold air out the vents. His way did the same, but I always felt it was risky and I didn't want to buy a customer a compressor. Thoughts?

[@TCEncore209]

Having this same question myself.

[@patw52pb1]

Tedybear315 Liquid charging on the suction side causes liquid slugging of the compressor. You are absolutely correct, liquid refrigerant is not compressible and damages the compressor, particularly pistons, swash plate, rods, valves and bearings. Practically every manufacturer warns against liquid charging. Liquid charging leaves telltale damage that usually voids any manufacturer warranty. Liquid charging damage may not cause an immediate compressor failure but it definitely causes premature compressor failures and performance issues.

[@thesearcherman6652]

As a retired commercial HVAC service tech, I can tell you that I would never “break a vacuum” by charging the way you do, into the low side with the compressor NOT running. You may be stacking the low side hose, evaporator, accumulator, compressor, with liquid refrigerant until the pressure comes up enough to make the LP switch, and under the right conditions when the compressor comes on it gulps a load of liquid. You may not know it at the time, but the valve plates could have been over flexed, weakening them causing a drastically reduced service life of the compressor down the road. Or, even worse. The proper way to break a vacuum is with the engine/compressor NOT running. Weigh in as much of the total charge as possible into the HIGH side. The refrigerant cannot get back into the compressor because it is blocked by the discharge valves, so mostly it goes into the condenser, discharge/liquid hoses or orifice tube where it flashes into a vapor. Once you have put as much of the required charge as will go into the high side WITHOUT the compressor running, close high side manifold valve. Both valves should now be closed as the low side was not opened. Start engine, turn on a/c, and with compressor running weigh in remaining required refrigerant into system via the LOW side port as liquid, or vapor. Vapor will take forever. Of course, NEVER attempt to charge via high side with compressor running. Your dumping liquid refrigerant into the low side port WITHOUT the compressor running is improper refrigeration procedure. Also, regarding charging liquid into the low side WITH compressor running, and those who say never do it. You will never get enough liquid thru a 1/4” hose/fitting to damage any automobile compressor, besides, the temperature pressure involved will generally ensure that the liquid boils instantly when entering the low side of the system WITH the compressor pumping. However, under certain conditions, this is not the case when stacking liquid into the low side with the compressor NOT pumping. Remember, no system is large enough to hold their entire refrigerant charge in vapor form, some of it must be a liquid. This being that a vapor occupy’s a much larger area than a liquid. The way that you install dye into the system is also improper procedure as it also introduces air and moisture into the system. Also, I consider any system with 0 psig pressure as having a large leak that must be repaired as it would not even hold 1 psig of pressure. I never quote a leak check/repair without first “bumping” the compressor over to make sure it will pump at least to some degree as it is embarrassing to leak check, fix a leak, charge system, and then have to call the customer and tell then you need another $1000 or more due to your own inexperience. Regards

[@mds2465]

Not only should you replace the receiver/dryer unit whenever replacing the compressor but you should also replace the condenser, especially on a modern vehicle. If the condenser is clogged up in any way it will ruin the compressor and you'll have to do this again. It's almost impossible to flush them out too so you might consider that next time around. Scotty Kilmer has a video explaining this also.

[@Darth_Sidious_66]

Michael Sackstein Scotty is fun to watch but some of his advice is a bit shaky.

[@mds2465]

Vern Fonk I understand. But he has been working on cars for many decades so he knows what's best

[@AttilaTheHun333333]

"he knows what's best" regarding his experience...problem with Scotty is, that he sells his experinces/his opinion as the absolute truth.

[@jayamd3579]

Michael Sackstein scotty is a prick, id never let him near a car!

[@jhmsmarttv795]

jay dogg Not to mention how loud and obnoxious he is. It's such a treat to watch and listen to Eric. Not only does he know what he is doing, he is also a humble and quite pedagogical mechanic. :-)

[@CarlosSimental1969]

Another great video Eric!

[@andrewkiwi1]

We ad an idiot out here in New Zealand who filled the ac with Lpg liquid petrolum gas.(Basicly Propane) It worked well until it developed a leak under the dash and blew up. The gas being heavier than air and pooling on the floor of the car ended up blowing the windows out and burning the driver.

[@IIGrayfoxII]

andrewkiwi1 I hope he lost his ability to reproduce, saying I hope he died is seen as bad in this day and age as humans tend to forget about natural secltion

[@IntegraDIY]

burned the driver and blew out the windows lmfao

[@851995STARGATE]

andrewkiwi1 Can you explain how lpg was able to cool the car? it expands and compressed the same way as freon?

[@TheRetiredtech]

IIGrayfoxII propane is widely used as a refrigerant and I kinda doubt your report. Propane is R290 and used extensively in Europe. Main Reasoner it is illegal here is that it is to cheap...

[@buggsyspam]

851995STARGATE Exact same principal, and not that uncommon. LPG was used in America a lot for refrigerators and freezers many years ago. It even saw a small resurgence after R12 was banned. Propane is still found in things like campers. My brand new mini fridge runs on butane (R600).

[@columba1109]

Nice video. Still wondering why the cooling fans took so long to turn on.

[@bdr6102]

Thank you Eric

[@MyHamsteri]

I really enjoy yah videos man it inspiering me to be a mechanic

[@SKUl3AST3V3]

+joey idk *Inspiring* stupid fuck

[@dizzolve]

Eric thanks so much for your videos. I've actually been a fan even before I got my 2000 town and country. The AC quit working and I suspect it's either the AC Clutch or Compressor....... how can I eliminate (diagnose) which it is? Take the belt off and just see if I can turn the whole AC pulley? or do I need to remove the pulley and turn the clutch? Looks like you re-inserted the clutch into the compressor and tried to turn it to see if the compressor was locked up or not. Am I warm here? No pun intended

[@PeteyG708]

I should get a set of those gages and a Vacuum pump from Harbor Freight. I have to replace the compressor, reciever/drier and the orifice tube / accumulator on my wife's 02 Taurus. That is gonna be a fun job....

[@slomotrainwreck]

Since the AC system was tight (not opened to atmosphere) and no obvious metal particles circulated throughout the system I wouldn't be super concerned about the receiver/dryer/accumulator/filter. I would definitely change it if the compressor warranty depended on a new one being there though.

[@walterhubicki5207]

The lines were off the compressor for some time the dryers desiccant would be spent. Really should replace the dryer.

[@russwelday]

To see if it's the belt, spray the belt with brake cleaner (chlorinated) while the engine is running. If the squeek goes away it's the belt. If not, then a pulley. To help spare the receiver dryer from being ruined by exposure to humidity, plug the ac hose ends any which way you can; latex gloves over and rubber banded, caps that came with the lines originally you have laying around. But if you left the ac hoses exposed to the air/humidity and you didn't evacuate for 2 hours the drier is pretty much toast.

[@fhudkins]

Thumbs up for "Star Trekkin'" quote!

[@TheMalaysianInvasion]

When you said flange, it reminded me of friends when phoebe from friends when she talks about the plane not having a phalange

[@TheSurvivalSecrets]

If it's your birthday, happy birthday Barbara.

[@glenngardner4808]

Eric, love the videos and your great work ethic. Did I notice that the water pump was showing leakage from the vent? While you were changing the a/c compressor. Thanks

[@werybigmonk]

Since when your videos are 60fps, what did I miss? :) It feels almost like watching live presentation in the garage.

[@pouchy400]

Is there another car lined up for Fixing it Forward?

[@geraldhix9922]

I find after evacuating the system with a vacuum pump, and before starting the engine. I'll get some hot water in a container and install a new can of refrigerant into the high side. Using the hot water to heat the can will force the refrigerant out of the can into the system. Use this only on the first can. Then close the high side and start the engine. Finish charging the system normally after that using the low side. With the first can the compressor will operate and pull the refrigerant out of the remaining cans until the proper charge is met.

[@kaceyhowell6570]

EricTheCarGuy Are you going to do a follow up video where you shoot a video of Barbara actually getting her minivan back?

[@jay7264]

Dam the amount of money in parts should have been put towards another vehicle. Well lucky she got Eric fixing her car for nothing more than a thank you and a pat on the back

[@simonip2625]

Eric.....you got the vent temps to below 60, but still above 50....would one actually consider that to be 'fixed'? Would a more accurate test of the temps be when the car is in motion? thanks..good video!

[@flynn88MN]

wow compressors are cool lookin inside.

[@GammaCruxis]

If the compressor itself was completely seized - I'm amazed it didn't instantly destroy the serpentine belt (or burn it up really badly) when the compressor clutch engaged for that half second...

[@francistheodorecatte]

GammaCruxis the compressor clutch was probably worn out enough to just instantly slip instead of locking up.

[@Umeeshbandara]

nice work

[@MattsRageFitGarage]

After watching these videos, I would NEVER buy one of those damn things lol.

[@carslover3509]

great great job

[@bshawn41]

I watched something not too long ago about a company making an airplane engine using the design that the ac compressor is using. Interesting.

[@davidcakemann6854]

bravo dude! a like on this end. even though repairs could have been a lot more difficult, you done ok, lol.

[@junierinrunescape]

Eric, you should start telling us how long it took you to do each job, just so that we have an idea of how long it might take us.

[@AutoExhibit]

Eric, shouldn't you drain the oil from the new compressor and replace with specified PAG/POE oil and use the proper amount for the application?

[@patw52pb1]

Automatic Editors That was anew, direct replacement OEM compressor that comes from the factory with the proper refrigeration oil and volume. No need to drain/replace.

[@rhkips]

The thing I've always wondered... If you're pulling a vacuum on the system, does that not pull all the moisture out of the desiccant in the receiver/dryer? Physics tells me yes, but everyone always says to replace the receiver/dryer any time the system is open for extended periods of time...

[@Blazer02LS]

The problem is that most pumps don't pull a good enough vacuum to pull out all the water. You can do pretty good if you draw a vacuum, leave it for 2-3 hours, then draw again. Most driers have desiccant inside, that is what you need to pull the moisture out of. It doesn't hurt if you toss a heat lamp on the drier while pulling a vacuum, just don't get it much over 200 degrees.

[@rhkips]

***** Alright, that's what I was curious about. I know you can stick desiccants in the oven to boil away the water, and at least in theory, 29in/hg is a pretty darn good vacuum. The physics says you only need to pull enough vacuum to bring the boiling point of the water to slightly below ambient temperature, but I wasn't sure about how the desiccant would change that boiling point.

[@patw52pb1]

rhkips Refrigeration/AC receiver/drier/filter desiccants are designed to easily absorb moisture and not easily release that absorbed moisture. Pulling a 29in/Hg vacuum pulls some moisture from the desiccant, but not most of the moisture without elevating the temperature of the desiccant. The biggest reason manufacturers recommend replacing the receiver/drier/filter/desiccant is because the desiccant degrades and breaks down over time which if not caught and contained by the filter can cause issues with the expansion valve or metering orifice or compressor, also because the filter portion of the filter/drier has collected microscopic debris during previous operation and they want to insure that the filter has the capacity to remove any additional debris or contaminates introduced by or during the repair without clogging the filter and restricting flow.

[@rhkips]

patw52pb1 Alright, that all makes sense. Great information; thank you very much! :D

[@nandoink]

You should clean that engine bay afterwards lol and it seems like the engine has a slow leak

[@MatrixDiscovery]

OMG why are we still on this same van? Can we move forward to something new?

[@grounded-b937]

Why did you use ester oil to lube the O-rings? R-134a systems use PAG.

[@guuuuustaf]

I see that you are not an Refrigeration technician. The first fail you did was you did not have a cap on the manometer where the valve sits. When there is vaccum in the manometer it could draw in air and moisture that way. Second fail was that you used cans.You are not putting in the exact amount.(You should use a scale). And you are not doing it right when you purge the hoses from air with the cans. You should have four hoses with one hose connected to the vaccumpump all the time soo you can purge the system from air completely. This way is much better. Third fail you didn't use a digital vaccum manometer. That is gonna tell you if you have a real vaccum. You cant really trust the ones you have. Fourth fail some of the dye you put in, you did push out when you purge the hose from air. And before you pushed out the dye from the hose you already had pushed some air into the manometer. Just wanted to tell you what you did wrong, soo you can be better at what you do. And yes your ac system worked. But that does not mean you did it the right way. This system may get shorter life, and not performing as good as it should have. And I also want to say that I like your videos, just not this one.

[@derricktorres6824]

Hey Eric, I've been watching your videos for a while now, I'm currently a student at UTI, just wondering, have you thought of becoming an instructor at UTI ? I mean as you get older is it something you've thought about? great video by the way

[@IntegraDIY]

hey eric, your gaining weight again, easy on the ham hogs

[@oscaralarcon6695]

good job thanks for the videos

[@Vitali_L]

good job.

[@InternetDude]

If you wanted to be a bit more precise, it would have been easy to weigh the refrigerant cans before you added and then after. You could be dead on accurate, because adding refrigerant by weight is the best way to do it.

[@TheStiver]

Can you speak to the references to replacing the receiver/drier, but choosing not to do so? Obviously it's not a necessity in your opinion, so what are the factors involved?

[@dunebasher1971]

The Stiver It's generally a necessity as far as the compressor's warranty is concerned, so strictly speaking Eric has voided the warranty (although we don't know what sort of agreement he came to with the company that supplied it). Factory service manuals tend to recommend that the receiver/drier should be replaced *every time* the AC system is opened to the atmosphere. In the real world, if the compressor *didn't* suffer a catastrophic seizure, they only tend to be replaced if they've been exposed to the atmosphere for more than... well, you can almost insert your own amount of time there. Thing is, receiver/driers aren't expensive. A decent aftermarket one for the van only costs about $13.

[@WillFigs823]

Where'd you get your pocket screw driver from. I could really use one like yours.

[@microstorm]

Is the amount of oil around the oil-filter old stuff or coming from up top?

[@LMacNeill]

Question - did the new compressor come with the clutch & pulley assembly already attached, or did you use the clutch & pulley assembly that you had planned on using with the old compressor before you discovered it was seized?

[@ericthecarguy]

LMacNeill Came with the new compressor. Couldn't use the old stuff, the clutch was too badly damaged and wasn't functioning anyway.

[@LMacNeill]

Oh, clearly the old clutch/pulley assembly couldn't be used -- it was totally destroyed. I just thought that you had purchased a new clutch/pulley assembly before you diagnosed the seized compressor, and might have used that clutch/pulley assembly, if the new compressor hadn't come with its own clutch/pulley assembly.

[@emilioemilio8713]

EricTheCarGuy Eric I have a 93 Honda Accord I have a good PCV valve but there is slight air coming out of the oil cap when i open it and car is running I also installed new motor mount in my car vibrates more than before at idle my car has a hundred seventy thousand miles one owner car

[@simonsj15]

Wasn't sure what was actually seized on the original compressor?

[@ericthecarguy]

Jim Simons The pistons were seized inside the bores.

[@aserta]

EricTheCarGuy Oil starvation?

[@thomasschwarzinger7757]

Harry TheCarGuy too much die in the refrigerant ruins the compressor oil and can cause it to get hot or seeze up ;)

[@ericthecarguy]

Thomas Schwarzinger In this case I would suspect that the clutch failure caused the compressor to overheat and seize up. I suspect it was slipping for some time and caused the compressor to fail as a result. I don't believe there was any dye in the system before I started work on the van. If you're thinking it was my dye that caused the failure, the compressor never ran, the clutch engaged momentarily and never did again when I went to charge the system. Not nearly enough time to cause the damage that was found during this repair.

[@thomasschwarzinger7757]

oh okay; i thought the die was in there all the time and maybe too much of it

[@hanounilahcen6697]

hi thanx for explain Guycar but we need to acknowledge more for charge and vacious gaz AC .sorry my english is bad im morrocan man

[@borilopez8581]

I m not professional mechanic or ac mechanic but is not a good idea change the dryer bottle? Cz what I understand thats the ac system filter?

[@gokartbuyer]

Should have cleaned the condenser coil. It made a HUGE difference on my car and mine wasn't even that bad. I also straightened the fins.

[@tylerh123able]

@EricTheCarGuy how did you evacuate the van?

[@jacke8487]

1-800 radiator and ac I love got a compressor and Condensor + dryer for $300

[@zachsgarage4714]

Do you have to put a vacuum on the system???

[@kegtapper09]

Zach'sGarage channel Yes, you need to pull all the air and moisture out of the system. It will also show you if there are any leaks you missed.

[@Emils2006]

what kind of brand impact gun you use? that yellow one.

[@plasticbmw]

+Ericthecarguy hey I was wondering if you could send me a link to the t handle you've been using... I can't seem to find the exact video I saw you using it in but it's a very big t handle with a swivel joint at the end and it looks to be 1/4" and high quality... Thanks Eric!

[@smoker318]

So did miss the tool review on those snap ring plier s

[@nhz013]

Extra thumbs up for dismantling the compressor Barbara definitey needs an oil change, the white useless autolite or some annoying white filter should be changed; bring this up in a video to get a oil change deal if she hasnt taken her car yet. Also, i dont understand why eric care so much about cores. The refurbishing co. will put things to make things working. They only have to replace a tad more stuffs, a little less profit but as long as the core is taken in without any deductions we should be fine I recently bought a starter Which was a core for 22$ and theres a kit for 10$ in amazon that can be used to fix the oem starter. It would be a project. But before i return the core back i will definitely keep my things for the next starter once i know for sure the starter is fixed. My gain here is to able to fix starters. Not all starters can be fixed but regular wears like the motor in the rear wings of barbaras can be fixed, i think Also, last year i vacuumed my ac with a 2.0 cfm pump and recharged following erics three videos, worked marvellously. This year, however i thought to add more pag 46, so i pulled a vacuum again. This time i used a 3.0 cfm pump, local rental unusual to have a 3.0cfm pump, and i changed pump oil too, becuase after sometime the pump loses its suction becuase of old oil, to me i think my ac got colder I went through some other forums and shops they use 5cfm and double stage pumps, i think it just makes it a little colder. So eric you may want to mention this to other people and also keep an eye out for a double stage pump

[@fhudkins]

Hey, Eric - I've always been told to charge gas and not liquid (not to turn the can upside down) for various reasons. Looks like you charge liquid with no problems. Have I been told an old wives' tale?

[@patw52pb1]

Farrar Hudkins Not an old wives tale, you were told correctly. Every AC compressor manufacturer warns not to charge with liquid for a very good reason and usually voids any compressor warranty. Liquid charging a positive displacement piston compressor such as used in most automotive applications casuses liquid slugging of the compressor. The liquid is not compressible in the compressor and damages the internal components of the compressor such as pistons, swash plate, rods, bearings and valves. It is very similar to hydro-locking in an engine.

[@uggadugga8070]

I was told by a facilities tech where I work that you can add as much liquid as the system will take right after vacuum -with the engine OFF. Then with car running, add the remainder in gas...speeds up the charging process!

[@patw52pb1]

KC inMN It is only safe to liquid charge after a complete vacuum down IF you are charging engine off/compressor NOT operating AND through the high side port then top off with gas only through the suction/low side port with the engine running/compressor operating.

[@uggadugga8070]

Ya, I couldn't remember if it was high or low side for the liquid, but I would've found out if I ever did it again. Good call!

[@whoolph]

A+ Eric . . . Rog

[@griffnut666]

Remember that show on TV, The Six Million Dollar Van

[@jdtrg55]

what kind of light is being used at 10:55!?! i must have it!!!

[@AdityaGaddam]

Are you guys just used to the heat where you are? 80F inside the shop while working seems ... uncomfortable...

[@wilsonautomotive]

Aditya Gaddam It stays a cool 100 at the Toyota dealership I work at here in middle Georgia.

[@AdityaGaddam]

guyred99 Man, that's nuts...

[@dericksilva0919]

So how did you evac the ac system Eric. Lol

[@ILoveBreakfast671]

ETCG... If my car is quiet when my a/c clutch is engaged, but whirring or whining when it is not engaged (off), what does that mean? Sound rises with rpms. I also replaced the pulley bearing so I'm really confused

[@HOTRODRICO]

ac clutch bearing is toast

[@martymcgrogan]

Eric, can u fix German Cars? They are the toughest in my experience and a lot of people have them. We will see how good you are! Trust me.

[@jonathanh3632]

Hey Eric, tell your camera guy to employ a monopod or something... I'm getting sea sick watching this vid...

[@stevenkahn8816]

Is the oil pan leaking oil that engine is really oily

[@LynxStarAuto]

Prototypical Chryco oil filter housing adaptor/cooler oil leak... 3 dollar gasket from Chrysler. Worth it to prevent the nasty, gunky mess that is the lower end of that engine.

[@MikeRthe1]

Get a good headlamp, best investment of my career