1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 247 Transfer Case Assembly

[@boogerhead0]

39:39 for the tail cone snap ring... So simple. Lightly seat the 4 screws pulling cone housing to rear case half. The bearing will have shoved the snap clip to the rear. Reach in with (your favorite) snap ring pliers, spreading the two legs. Reach in with a flat screwdriver and drag the bearing, which will also be retained onto the shaft, and all with it, to the rear the 1/8" or so needed for the snap ring to be in alignment with the bearing groove. Release snap ring pliers. Snap ring will leap into the groove. Verify seating. Torque 4 screws to final 20ft-lb, install rubber bung plug.

[@IPTQ81UR]

Kudos all around, for excellent information, camera work, lighting, verbal description and more. The fact that you're not a mechanic nor an expert in the field only aids in your ability to communicate the relevant information without getting caught up in jargon or other technical mumbo jumbo. I only wish that you had gone into the planetary gear set as I believe that is where my issue lies. Thank you for doing this and the disassembly video.

[@boogerhead0]

Pulling the rear pocket needle roller bearing unit for the forward shaft requires a 36-38mm blind pocket puller. A 1.5” steel round will suffice to make a puller. Undercut to about 1.3”, leaving a 3/32” long foot, then cut for about 1-5/8” to 2”. Cutoff at end of undercut, then split this plug, make a suitable shim to force the halves apart, 1/4” piece of HRS will do. Drill one half plug on end 5/16” and tap 3/8”-16 for the typical HFT slide hammer drawbar. Cross drill the two halves, off center, 7/32” and use drill bit to tie the two halves together. Propane torch heat the casting, outside the pocket, and inside, around the pocket. About 120 slams of the slide hammer will remove even a stubborn bearing unit.

[@phillanassa759]

There is a flat round magnet that goes under the oil pump pickup screen, and it will typically keep the pump screen assembly in place. I would be wary of using anything else to keep it in, place or reduces the gap between the screen and case, which could cause oil starvation to the pump and coupler. Other wise, great videos, well explained and executed!

[@boogerhead0]

When installing the progressive coupler, use a flat screwdriver to shove all plates to one side, before placing the coupler onto the line shaft. Shoving the plates to one side will make seating the coupler a snap. Verify the coupler is seated far enough down that the thrust washer fits onto is true place, and not above (to the rear) the snap ring groove. The thrust washer fitting centered is verification that the coupler is correctly placed.

[@robertgolden1080]

Fantastic video. This is going to help out tremendously. Thanks for sharing.

[@jerrycraig9267]

Thanks to your video support I just tore down my NP247 (2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 165K miles). Inside it looked very clean I noticed some small metal pieces / shavings the size of a pin head in the pick up screen and saw that the top edge of the viscous coupler was "rough" in one 1" spot (as if it nicked up against something metal). I can't see any other mating or "near" surfaces with that same "Scuff". I put the cone back over it to see if there was a "rub" there and nothing. If you visualize a coke can standing upright as if it was the viscous coupler in the bottom clam shell, the "Rub" or "scuff" mark is on the top edge of the coke can where the bead of aluminum seals the side to the top of the coke can. Likewise the scuff on the VC is on that top edge where the side meets with the top. In fact, the "Scuff" was so deep there is a hole in that seam - e.g. it is not closed off. I can provide a picture for your review but how? email? Trying to figure out what it could have possibly hit to clear that up before replacing the VC unit. Any ideas?

[@MuhammadAli-su3oo]

You explained very nicely both videos, Teardown and Assembly. Thank you so much

[@frankoneyjr.4515]

Good video ! Try placing all bearings in the freezer for several hours ! They install very easy that way !

[@stnerabmot4912]

AWSOME. Great vids also the one of deassembling. With intel about where to look and how to find. One of the best video on this channel. Again: awsome!

[@pedrosolistorres]

I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 inline 6 2wd selective 4wd. When I am driving down the road and come to a red light it starts making a growling noise when I come to a stop the noise goes away when I put it on neutral. The noise also happens when I turn my wheel all the way to the right. I don’t know what the problem is if somebody can help me out. Not that you can only hear the noise from inside the jeep you cannot hear it from outside or under the jeep so it’s even harder to know where the noise is coming from.

[@kevancrossin9877]

Outstanding, thank you.

[@Twizter68]

Nice video, and some great tips, but...after all that trouble, you should have replaced ALL the seals and bearings. It just makes good sense to do it once it's all torn down that far.

[@DodoLaSaumur78]

SUPER TRAVAILLE MERCI

[@BoostedTJ]

Great video! Good presentation and order.

[@dominiquegoin7810]

hello bonjour from France i follow your videos, thanks a lot, merci beaucoup. salutation, best regards

[@MiroslavHristov]

If you put the bearings or bushings in the freezer, then installation will be much easier!

[@Dave-qd6pp]

I loved your video however I saw one place that you forgot something or it just wasnt there to begin with but there should have been a chain guide that the chain rides on installed with 2 screws in the bottom of the case. Your chain not haveing this will fly off from being too lose at some point.

[@mcplutt]

You don't want to clean those friction plates with brake cleaner. The expensive stuff is really nothing else than Mobil Fluid 424.

[@rafagaezowski5894]

ribenthroph molotov????

[@truflacz]

This is not a viscous coupler. It is multiplate wet clutch.

[@johnnyb3987]

How did reusing the existing clutch pack work out for you? Excellent video. I have no real need to do this, but it was great to watch.

[@jimdandy6472]

Reusing the viscous coupler (progressive clutch) is working fine. The main goal was to eliminate the annoying bearing whine which we accomplished. It's a kid's work car/jeep and works well for that. We never did any experiments to see if the VC will engage the front wheels if the back wheels start to slip, but it drives fine. You can put a block of wood under the front wheels, lift the back wheels with a couple of floor jacks (so they spin), and see if the front wheels engage and pull the jeep over the blocks. The VC engages when the front and back wheels are turning at a different speed, and disengages during normal driving for better gas mileage.

[@VINNY5674]

If i ever tried to make a video like this there be a lot of cursing 🤬

[@Trollet456]

Vladimir Putin like this