Deutsches Institut für Normung (DIN) in English, the German Institute for Standardization

This guy tries to be EXACT but he is WRONG on a couple of things,,, there is a Difference between a SAE bubble Flare and a DIN bubble flare... Toyota uses Metric Bubble flares,,, NOT SAE bubble flares.. He sometimes gets Double and Bubble mixed up and that mah because one of the papers explains it WRONG... when you work on brake lines be VARY VARY careful on what you have,,, Toyota OFTEN has TWO DIFFERENT ends,,,

I am kind of surprised this repair isn't done from the back. It seems like everything is located on the back side not the front of the machine.

Thank you for the very thorough explanation I'm off to fix my garage door now (spring replacement)

Thanks so much for this.

I just did this gasket on my 3.1 L in my 1996 Chevrolet Lumina. It's a very good video indeed. I love that you went into detail and described what to do. I finished it and got is running so smooth that the engine does not even shake when running and this is my first time doing something bigger then an oil change. I did accidently strip the engine head by I replaced it along with the head gasket for that side. Thank you very much for the video. And actually, your video was showed to me by my girl's dad. Again, thanks.

Truly one of the best videos I have seen on KZbin. You took the time to explain the many processes that is needed for an extensive repair. It gives me the confidence that I need for my 3.1 liter. The procedure list was icing on the proverbial cake (wish other people would adopt it). Only one issue: don't skimp on the reinstall details in the future; it is equally, if not more, important than the uninstall details. Thanks for the EXCELLENT job!

Thank you for that video !!!

No matter what it's amazing thank you

Thank you so much for this video!

Wow

Now that’s a Jim Dandy repair. Thanks friend.

Thanks

One caveat: there's an extra security horn on my 2012 Highlander w keyless fob v6. So the panic button honked, but the regular horns were actually disconnected. Since I thought the horns worked, it sent me down a rabbit hole of clockspring replacement. Per this video, kzbin.info/www/bejne/oqWUpGmontSEq7s you can test the clockspring by bypassing it by grounding the appropriate colored pin (check a manual, mine was yellow) in the connector plug that plugs into the bottom of the clockspring. If you remove the air bag screws, you can just take the ground wire off and touch it to the steering wheel metal to test the connection in the horn switch, which is really just the frame grounding out when you push on the air bag.

Quick way to see if the thermostat is the problem?, run it without the thermostat??

Elaborating on the original poster's idea, I was able dig out the hardened rubber rather easily with a sharpened small screwdriver. I had a nearly precision sized screwdriver with a comfortable handle with appx 0.070" wide shaft/blade that I sharpened to a chisel-like edge and was able to scrape/dig/mill out material fairly fast. Less than 10 minutes (on the bench) and I could pull out the metal part and popped out the remaining ring of hard rubber!!

Just fixed my aunts dryer with this. Thanks 👍

SUPER TRAVAILLE MERCI

I noticed I had one wheel peel during a rain. Turns out my 247 has a hole in it and I bought it with a dry case. Patched the hole and filled it, hopes are nil at this point. Luckily, I have a 242 to put in it.

I used my multi tool to take it off.. took about 2 minutes to remove

That machine is absolutely filthy, look at the gray scum everywhere on that sump assembly and around the floor and sides…like people are eating off the dishes coming out of this 🤮🤮 I cannot believe people let their dishwasher get this bad.

These are sealed transmissions (Why there's no dipstick). The only reason you fool with these transmissions is if you have a gasket leak and lose fluid.

Thanks dude! Shout out Ashley!

The 4 cylinder one does not have dipstick

This is the very best instructional video I’ve ever seen. Thank you for your transparency. I appreciate how you revealed the problems you encountered during the process of installation.

The worst car ever made it one problem after another and some that are common nobody has a fix for some of them

I've got a 1995 Ford Windstar. Bubble flare. Ughhhhh

whats a window ?

I have gtp 40th anniversary. Love it but they made the oil pan the hardest job ever.

Hello I' Adrian from Brazil, I haver a Civic 2004 ,Generation 7 ,like this vídeo. Congratulations. Tank you.

Great video Jim thank you

How are you going to try to explain something or teach somebody when you do not know the steps yourself you need to get a life

GM PassKey technology is the joke of the decade. Just bypass the damn thing with a 50 cent resistor.

Good work bro

Hey Boss man jack up the van a little bit I literally just done this job I used a block of wood on the spare tire and jack had to play with the jack up and down but it will line right up titen up the other way is to use the front of the leaf springs didn't want to do that my van is to old 2002 not gonna happen thank you sir

Hello Jim , thank you for the video . I have a 2002 pontiac grand am , I'm trying to locate the Torque converter clutch solenoid. Do you have an idea where it is?

This is exactly what just happened to mine,same part separated,same dishwasher,same age lol Thanks for the video

I found a problem with my pressure switch and fixed it. It was causing intermittent error code F21. I never found my washer with a lot of water still in it when this code posted and the pump is new and pumps water fast. No clogs in tubes or filter. In short, if you have a SUD or F21 error and use proper he soap, have no clogs, and a good pump, then replace or clean your switch. Here's my long explaination for those that want it: At 32:26 the analog pressure switch is shown. Mine is black and red but likely the same. The far left contact #1 and #3 are a normally closed contact. I unplugged my machine and removed the switch plug and connected hose and used a multimeter to measure across these two contacts. (#1 and #3) They should read zero ohm with no pressure on the switch. If you blow into where the tube connects you will hear one click followed by another. These are two switches that toggle at different pressures. I think the fist click closes two other contacts (not #1 and #3) saying the water is filled. The second click i think is just there to stop filling if it's activated. This signifies an overfill condition. It takes higher pressure to activate so only does if the first switch fails. As soon as you hear the first click when applying pressure the #1 and #3 contact open indicating to the washer it's filling and is no longer empty. I believe when the washer has finished pumping out the water in the tub it needs to see a connection between #1 and #3. On my switch these contacts were showing a rapidly changing resistance as i lightly pressed against the contacts with no pressure on the switch. High resistance when it should be 0 ohm likely caused the computer to think the drain cycle didn't finish in time. The manual states that if the drain time exceeds 8 minutes you will get a F21 code. I believe my tub was drained in time, but sometimes the #1 and #3 switch were high resistance indicating the tub was not empty. I used a screwdriver to gentry pry off the back case of the switch. You just need to go slow and work it off all the way around it. Their are a lot of parts inside, but take it apart slowly and pay attention to how the parts stack so that you can later reassemble it I used some electrical contact cleaner (available in a spray can) and just sprayed the contacts clean while manually actuating them. After letting the contact cleaner air dry i reassembled and tested the contacts again and they now reliably show 0 ohms with no pressure and open or OL when I blow into the switch. I reinstalled everything and this alarm code has not returned. When the lower of the two pressure switches fails to open on a drain cycle you get a SUD error.

Excellent instructional video!!!

1.8 t a GREAT piece of shit .A millions problems .....

You’re a life saver 🙏🏻

Awesome vid, thank you

What’s the difference with the sport?

Thanks, I checked many others videos n only showed with key.

Thx for the video. I had the same issues taking out the liftgate supports on my van. Mainly I think the problem lies with the soft metal on the new liftgate supports. But thanks for the size on the tap in case I ever need to rethread the liftgate screw holes.

What is the reason Toyota went with such a hokey set up as far as the oil filter is concerned, it seems unnecessarily complicated, especially when I’ve been using standard oil filters for the last 55 years of my life

Great video. Very thorough and explained well. I was a Chrysler tech until 2000 and the shop I was working at , i did them all, nobody wanted to replace the regulator and motor assemblies, you have to pay attention, how it comes apart, they are a pita well done!😊

Can anyone help me with FILL TANK message in dashboard?

Super informative video. Everything condensed nicely.

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