Toyota Camry / Avalon 1MZ-FE Timing Belt, Water Pump, Seals & Pulleys Incl: Sienna/Solara/ES & RX300

[@Phoenixesper1]

This video was incredible. Mechanic wanted to charge me $1400 to replace those 3 seals! I did it after watching this for about $200 in tools and parts in a day. Thank you sir.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you and thanks for sharing!

[@AllanDee]

One thing that drove me nuts on this job was I thought the rear cam sprocket was installed backwards by mistake bc the flange is facing out on it but facing in on the front one. Came here to verify that it's on correctly. Great tip on the paint can tool as a seal remover! Thanks for the video mate!!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@joelsmith4816]

Absolutely invaluable video. You don't realize how many people you've helped and money saved. For that I'm subscribed. Thanks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for the sub and support!

[@zamiryi]

@@hardlymovingprosame here, thank you ! One question though - you didnt have to set the tdc or timing marks prior to removing the old belt ?

[@hardlymovingpro]

@zamiryi Thanks! TDC was set at the 4:30 video time mark

[@donaldlee6760]

Awesome video. My 1999 Toyota Avalon was recently salvaged when my teen got into his 3rd accident, but I plan to change the timing belt on my wife's 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid. This engine is similar to the Highlander Hybrid engine, so as soon as school is out for the summer (or maybe sooner - coronavirus?) then I'll do this job and become the greatest DIY mechanic of all time (in my mind of course).

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment, support and good luck when you're ready to do the repair ... and hopefully this will be you teen's last accident (everything happens and ends in three's)!

[@dojgman]

What a fabulous video! You rock! Couldn’t have done the job on our old ‘01 Avalon without your step-by-step expertise and common sense explanations! Your procedures for aligning the cam and crank timing marks were spot on! In another of your videos you encouraged the use of genuine replacement parts. Your are so right! Bought a “Genuine Toyota” timing belt kit on eBay. Replaced the cam seals, crank seal, “Aisin” water pump, “Koyo” idler pulley, “Koyo” tensioner pulley, Toyota thermostat. All seemed to be going well until it came time to install the “Toyota” timing belt. The timing mark for the rear cam was not marked properly....the gold line was marked directly on top of a belt tooth. Also, the marking for the crank sprocket was off by 5 3/8”. Suspicious, took timing belt and the two “Toyota” accessory belts to a Toyota dealership. The guy at the Parts Counter went into the stacks and brought out timing belt and accessory belts that fit our Avalon. The eBay kit timing belt was clearly mismarked. The construction and feel of all three of the eBay kit belts was clearly different than the Toyota dealership belts. Was clearly to see the eBay kit belts were counterfeit! On the the drive home decided that if the belts in the eBay kit were counterfeit, then it was likely that the other components were also likely to be counterfeit! Uninstalled all of the other components that came in the eBay kit. Ordered new components from Contitech and from Toyota dealerships that discount their Genuine Toyota parts. The job turned out successfully....learned a lot. Again, many thanks...Couldn’t have done it without you!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Great story and glad it all worked out for you! Contitech or Continental do make great parts.

[@gwrider2146]

Aisin also has a timing belt kit and is a Toyota oem supplier. Yep, I also learned the hard way to avoid buying the "cheap" so called manufacturer OEM parts on Ebay, and even on Amazon. If you want OEM parts, only buy from the dealers and yes it will cost more (often ALOT more), even with the discounts many dealerships offer, but that is the price for getting the real parts I suppose.

[@hardlymovingpro]

You said it!

[@cameronp5728]

lol that slack trick is only for the people who have gone through the pain and suffering of trying to align everything without moving the cogs. I learned that trick the first time I did a timing belt change on 3VZ-FE. You make it look easy. Good job

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for sharing!

[@TEHCANADIANBULL]

Very good video! Great shots of the work done makes it very useful for helping those who are doing a timing belt replacement. One tip I would include is that when you take off the camshaft pulleys, using a chain wrench like you did will mark up the surface of the pulley a bit. An easy technique to avoid this is to cut a piece of the old timing belt off and wrap it around the camshaft pulley before removal. I found that there was enough room on my old belt between the marks I made for the rear camshaft pulley and the marks for the crankshaft so I could cut enough to wrap around the camshaft pulley but not lose my old marks. Also, I found that a 1-1/4" PVC pipe fit the camshaft seals well and was able to press them on with that. If you do use PVC for pressing the seals on, I would recommend taking the old camshaft seal and placing that on the end of the PVC that fits up against the new seal. That way, the old seal distributes the press force evenly on the new seal, and it is less likely to damage the new seal.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your post and sharing your experience.

[@jbeau72]

I'm having a friend of mine backyard mechanic do this job. He's charging me $250 after watching this video. I think that's money well spent

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good deal! Use name brand parts and you'll be all set!

[@SPOT305]

How's it holding up after a year? I'm planning on doing my 04 soon

[@maphyous228]

@@SPOT305 Dude took it apart, went to lunch, and we never saw him again.

[@jamesricciardi1083]

Thanks for the video. It was big help. The least expensive impact wrench I could find that would remove the crank bolt was the Harbor Freight Earthquake. You can find a used one on Ebay. I got the cheapest timing belt kit I could find on Ebay. The paper water pump gasket that came with the kit was torn up when it arrived. I got a metal one at Advanced Auto. During installation, I tore six after market cam seals before I broke down and got OEM ones at the Toyota dealership. They fit perfectly. I practiced removing and installing the timing belt on a junker at Pull-A-Part. This minimized the installation time on my car. Thanks again

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it all worked out for you.

[@andycrump994]

Outstanding. I watched the video several times and then went out to do it. I also bought a chiltons. Complete garbage manual. My only flub was that chain wrench. I nicked up the pulley pretty good. Bought a new one and the right tool. LOL. You really made this easy for me and I really appreciate it. I'll reinstall everything tomorrow and hopefully it works.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you! Nick marks on the cam pulleys won't hurt the belt.

[@speakeasy19]

Had a 95 Avalon. Got to do this job twice. I used an aftermarket water pump that was included in the all in one replacement kit ( Gates, I believe) and two years later I was tearing it all apart again to replace the bad pump. In hindsight I should have used Toyota parts. Gee, where have I heard that before all over You Tube?😂

[@hardlymovingpro]

Toyota subcontracts their w/p's to Aisin. You can get them cheaper than the dealer.

[@CosmicMomentumX]

13:01 this tip saved my life brother. I've been at it for 3 days before I found your video. Thank you so much for putting this info out here. Your expertise allowed me to help my friend get her timing belt replaced. Thanks again, God bless!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you and thanks for sharing a successful belt installation! I've done a lot of belt realignment jobs where the belt was previously installed with slack between the cams and crank resulting in timing misalignment.

[@alanfarias2923]

Awesome video, the lighting was perfect I was able to see everything and the highlight points where fantastic. Your explanation was understandable. And most of not boring with a lot nonsense babbling. Thanks again for the help. I should be able to the job with very little setbacks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks and good luck with the job!

[@ray5961]

Thanks for the great video. Just completed a timing belt replacement on my girlfriend's ES300 - your video made the job go smoothly and saved me from having to work through it based off just the shop manual alone.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Nice work!

[@ray5961]

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks! Just fired her up this afternoon - ran like a dream.

[@christopherpollard7244]

Dude Ive been working on cars for almost ten years and I learned all kinds of tricks today! Great video sir!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it helped you out!

[@golden.lights.twinkle2329]

Just remember where everything goes so you put in back in the right place with the correct torques. Take lots of photos. This job costs around $900 at my local repair shops, half parts, half labor.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good to know.

[@RobertSoboski71628]

2001. Toyota. Tu dra. Timing belt. Replacment

[@ronbonora7872]

it costs about $1500 for labor and parts to do this job!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Use to cost around $900. Takes me around 5 hours. @@ronbonora7872

[@BryanChance]

One of the best videos on the topic! Makes a big and scary job easy to follow. Great camera work and explanation. Thank you so much.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@dojgman]

Would like to thank you again for your excellent, step-by-step video! You are an excellent teacher! Just completed the replacement of the timing belt, seals, pulleys, accessory belts, etc. on our ‘04 Avalon. The tools that you use: the 22mm Lisle high mass impact socket, the Lisle seal removal tool and the cam seal installation tool have all been excellent investments that made the job so much easier. The tips that you give to install the timing belt and remove the slack on the cam and crank sprockets before engaging the tensioner are invaluable! Eventually, would like to do the timing belt on our ‘05 Lexus LS430 (3UZ FE) 4.3L V8 engine. The current selection of on-line videos for this replacement are lacking in hands-on instruction compared to your fine videos. Would it be possible for you to tackle one of these engines and produce a video showing all of the steps? Keep up the great work and many thanks again for sharing your expertise! Have a Happy Thanksgiving!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for sharing your successful TB job! The belt and w/p replacement on the UZ-FE engines isn't difficult but more time consuming. What is a pain (that I haven't done yet on a customer's car) is the replacement of the cam seals. It requires the removal of the camshaft. A friend of mine with a 98 LS400 (under 200k miles) had a TB break because of leaking cam seals. The valves got bent since it's a interference engine. He swapped it out with a JDM engine he picked up for under $1,000.

[@oldvetwhotravels.5326]

Awesome to see somebody that knows what they are doing. It is damn hard to find. A great mechanic where I Live.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks ... appreciate your post!

[@supra1988tg]

One of the best how-to vids I've seen. Well done and thanks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you liked it and hope it helped you out!

[@petepower4217]

Dude, you rock! I gotta say, so nice of this feller to post this video. Did a TB job a couple of years ago on my 2000 Avalon 1MZ-FE but now have a oil leak under the TB cover, suspect the left ( towards front of car) cam seal. Darn it!. His list of tools (and workaround tools!) used is so very helpful, especially the seal removal tool (thanks for that hombre!) his tips and tricks are important and informative. Consult your Service manual for torque numbers and which bolts should be replaced due to metal fatigue of bolts under pressure (like the crank bolt, I believe). Read through all the comments section and replies, watch the video a number of times, write down important notes, take pictures BEFORE removing parts and where belt tension bolts are in relation to brackets, use masking tape to ID bolt placements, use separate baggies for parts and bolts that go together, use nail polish to mark TDC marks when you find them to highlight them like which camshaft pulley goes where and at what orientation BEFORE removing parts, take his advice on how to tension and manipulate the TB when reassembling. USE OEM PARTS! you don't want to take any chances given how much time you are going to spend doing this. He even lists part numbers for you! (double check against YOUR vehicle schematics on OEM parts dealers websites, sometimes parts are "repclaced by" newer Toyota parts #s). Remember, this job is going to take you a lot longer than it does him. GO SLOW and prepare well and good luck! Oh yeah, never hurts to watch other videos on the subject to pick up the little tips and tricks for the first-time DIYer, take notes. Make a folder in your bookmarks and save the videos and websites for easy access, don't try to commit to memory only! Tahe Lexus ES300 of the same year has the same motor (1MZ-FE). It's a good idea to watch these videos also. The more videos you watch BEFOREHAND, the more tips and tricks you'll pick up especially on the more crucial points (position of cams and crank pulleys in relation to TB, how to remove crank bolt, how to isolate cams from moving, etc., how to lift motor for clearance in removing brackets if necessary). You can "rent" some of the tools (crank pulley puller, for instance) from your local parts supplier like O'Reilly's, Pep Boys, Autozone, etc., by leaving a deposit w/ them on your credit card and when you return they credit back to your card. Make a list of what tools you need and compare them to what they offer for "rent" (might have to go to multiple stores, KEEP YOUR RECEIPTS!). Thanks again sir, for posting such a good video!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your post and kind comments! Good to hear from someone who watched the video in detail and took note of all the tools I use. Makes the job go easier and faster.

[@danielvidalescruz6343]

Thank you for the comment! Very helpful reminders. Im preparing for this job this video will be very very useful

[@nathanield.4527]

This video is a great improvement over the timing belt job you did for the Camry. I especially liked how you used a paint marker to better show us the alignment marks for the timing belt. Great job!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@josephherron7671]

I use those paint marks every time I do a timing belt. I mark the old belt at each TDC mark. Then transfer those marks to the new belt and use them to make sure the belt is on tight and not shipping a tooth. Hasn't failed me yet.

[@johnbraun1719]

I'm glad you explained to your viewers about the cam pulleys being opposite from each other. Thanks again for getting back to me through the other video.

[@hardlymovingpro]

You bet

[@elviti537]

Thank you brother.I’m here at the mechanic Shop where I’m learning and this video..”THIS VIDEO IS ON POINT”..Great job man

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you found the video educational!

[@fireboyisme]

What an awesome video! Thanks so much for the detailed info and the great camera work. This is gonna be so much easier thanks to you!🤘🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoyed it! Let us know how your job turns out!

[@IvanPerez-dv5et]

Thanks for showing the adjustment on the camshaft and crankshaft in order to properly install the timing belt. I could not figure out how to do this when I attempted to change the timing belt on this engine.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Excellent point! I've seen repair instructions state something like "install the belt" or videos where all of a sudden, the belt is on. The belt installation is the most critical ... the most important phase of the repair and everyone seems to gloss over it! Anyone can install the belt where the cam and crank alignments marks are fine ... but is there belt slack in between? Remove the slack by turning either the crank or cam and boom ... your off a cog.

[@chrismcintosh1591]

Appreciate your video. I just finished installing new water pump, seals and timing belt on my 1998 Toyota Avalon. Your guidance helped tremendously. My belt failed and broke apart inside and wrapped several times around the crank gear. So, there was no aligning the marks before replacing the belt. Things I found out while replacing the belt: 1. The 1MZ-FE (pre VVT) does not appear to be an interference engine or maybe it is, and I got lucky. The valves weren't hurt, and I was able rotate the two cams and crank with no problem. 2. The two cams when rotated are spring loaded and the left cam falls right on TDC. The right cam (rear) does not for some reason - it spring loads around 10, 2, and 5 o'clock. You have to gently rotate that cam to TDC before it falls on the 2 o'clock. Hope this helps the next person.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it all worked out and thanks for sharing your experience with the repair!

[@llama9274]

sirry new here TDC? Timing..? sorry please advise

[@paulantonio740]

Great video! I replaced everything on my 2002 Avalon with the Aisin kit plus cam & crank seals and thermostat. Discovered that whoever was down there before used cheap parts, including a non-OEM thermostat installed with form-a-gasket sealant. Water pump was missing 2 bolts. Anyway, after watching your video several times, completed job, and the 3.0 started up fine but after a few minutes noticed a bad leak from one of the cam seals. Ugh. Removed everything again except the water pump, replaced the leaking crank seal (more carefully this time), and now all is good with the Avalon. BTW, the tip regarding the slack on the crank sprocket was very helpful. Thanks HMP!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for sharing your repair experience using the video as a guide! Just a FYI: Another future possible oil leak source that may fool you as a camshaft seal leak can come from the oil pressure sensor. The sensor is on the left bank by the lower timing belt cover.

[@carloscastro6503]

Me too I watched 4 times, incredible. The volume went off couple times but, beautiful video. You can have your own school. I want to be the one holding the light. Please let me know, at no change. You guys are the best.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@osirismercado3579]

Thank you so much for this video!!! Will be doing this job soon. Car is leaking oil from crankshaft seal, thought we could simply replace the seal but looks like it’ll have to be entire timing belt kit.

[@hardlymovingpro]

More likely one of the cam seals. The oil works its way to the crankshaft.

[@Altekameraden79]

Fortunately I am performing this on an engine stand with the new engine for a 1999 model. The timing belt proceeded to delaminate at 75mph going up a mountain pass in Wyoming 1,200 miles from my home. Piston fragments pierced my oil pan and littered the highway, but was still able to load and unload the car under power with zero oil on a Uhaul car dolly. Toyota for life, even though this is my first Toyota and it lasted 600 miles since I bought it haha.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Wow ... what bad news. Good luck with the new engine!

[@royalmoos3y]

Thanks for the video. I like the name of your channel, it described how fast I did the job. I was hardly moving 😂 got it all done. 2nd timing belt but first one on a Toyota. I spun the crank 6 revolutions by hand to double check the timing marks before putting back together and it was all good! Running great now! Thanks!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad to hear it went well and thanks for sharing!

[@Only1trueGOD]

My 99 Avalon has 220K and I have to do this pretty soon, to avoid a wrecker bill! Great video.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks and good luck with the repair!

[@winninglane3671]

You're good !!! I guess you already know. I'm just a regular check all basic stuff , but watching you showed me things I didn't know but now I have knowledge when my master mechanic explains and shows me what the issues with my 2001 Avalon and what needs to be done ,not much but with a little over 300,000 miles I have to stay on top of it ,you do great work and thank you.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@AllanDee]

Great video. I just finished this job and I'd like to clear one item up that was a bit confusing to me. Between the FSM and in some online guides and how-to's you'll run across multiple methods for aligning the crankshaft (bottom sprocket). Some will indicate that the dot on the sprocket should be aligned at the mark on the block at the 12 o'clock position while others will indicate that the dot on the sprocket must be turned to the 4 o'clock position and aligned with the mark on the belt. Here's the thing: both are right. There are two marks on the crankshaft sprocket. There is one on the thin plate that rides up next to block and the other is on the front face of the sprocket. *Both dots need to be lined up!*. The one in the back of the sprocket that rides next to the block should align with the block mark at 12 o'clock and the one on the front face of the sprocket should align with the line on the timing belt. If they don't both line up, you've done something wrong and need to start over. One more thing. The belt guide (bowl - shaped plate on the crank shaft) should go on between the crankshaft sprocket and the dust cover with the bowl side facing out. Hope this helps. Thanks for the great video.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Now you know why applying paint marks on the new belt and pulleys makes the job go easier.

[@charlesonyango5608]

Swapping a similar engine. I will have to do all this while the engine is out. This has been very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to do this..

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you liked the video. With the engine out the job would be much easier.

[@rasbaba8968]

Where are you located mr onyango

[@TAspeed1]

This is great. Thank you very very much. Took me about 7 hours, no fancy power tools. 1 and 7/8 outside diameter PVC pipe work great to reinstall the crankshaft seal. To be honest I was a bit intimidated by the project but your video is great

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you and 👏 congrats!

[@trentdaddydolla647]

Was it hard to get the balancer off?

[@TAspeed1]

@@trentdaddydolla647 not at all.

[@trentdaddydolla647]

@@TAspeed1 oh ok thanks

[@livetoinspireall2755]

​@@trentdaddydolla647 I have read that you can attach a socket, breaker bar, extension so that ground contact is made. Confirm crankshaft turning direction and face bar so that when you crank the motor briefly, the setup will hold in place and loosens the bolt. Toyota guru Scotty Kilmer demonstrated it in one of his You Tube videos. This video is great and I appreciate the detail. Priceless reference

[@veindawgz998]

😆 Now i got the motivation to do my ES this summer! thanks brother! ✌️

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment! Here's a nightmare TB repair video link I did on a ES300, if interested: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gZzNmHWMraeUm7c

[@oldvetwhotravels.5326]

Glad to see you are still at it Sir. I will try to come see you in a couple of months. I have a 1999 Lexus RX 300 . I need the timing belt, waterpump and other timing components changed out. This is Troy Kieffer. You did it for my 1998 Lexus ES300. Hope you and yours are all doing Great!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks! Hope to see to again soon!

[@MrKontiya]

Thankyou for a really awesome and easy to follow video. Currently installing the timing belt. Everything is lined up. But once I spin the engine twice, the top two mark align but the crankshaft marks don't. I don't understand what I'm doing wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated

[@hardlymovingpro]

On the V6's with automatic belt tensioners, there's no need to rotate the engine after belt installation. Just make sure there is no belt slack between the cams and the crank pulleys. The ratio difference between the cam and crank pulleys is why the alignment marks on the belt will not realign with the pulley alignment marks after rotation.

[@MrKontiya]

Sorry just so I understand, the alignment at 13:38. The two orange dots. Once the engine is rotated, they wont align. While the top camshafts align. So That's not a issue correct? Thankyou for the help again

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes. Not an issue. However you should double check the cam and crank alignment marks with their respective backing plate and engine block alignment marks after rotation.

[@MrKontiya]

@@hardlymovingpro Thankyou, all done, driving great. Only issue is when I drive short distance engine light is coming on. Cars driving normal no issues. But when I switch the car off and then back on its gone. Cars got no obd port which is amazing.

[@josephherron7671]

Excellent video. I'll be starting this job on Friday and this will save me a ton of time. Thanks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Let us know how the job went!

[@jamesguralski5156]

I'm getting a 2002 solara from neighbor.. so this vid is key to my next project!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you!

[@rsomes]

Adding some experience here, if you use a chain wrench like in the video. Put some steel wool between the teeth of the cam pulley and teeth of wrench, keeps the tool from marring the sprocket teeth. Great video

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good idea! Sometimes I cut a piece of an old belt and use that as covering.

[@boohoo210]

Thanks for posting these. It's such a huge service and confidence being able to have an instructor for any possible maintenance or repair on my vehicle. What size breaker bar do you find yourself using the most?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad to help! Check out this video to answer your question: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jImkZ6Sdqruhi7s

[@sergiocortes9072]

gracias por el video, yo estoy trabajando en un lexus es300 98 y ahi la llevo, aunque no tengo torque para la bonba de agua, pero algo se podra hacer. y de echo iba a conseguir la llave thor de 5.5 mm donde emgancha la bonba pero usted no quito esos tornillos

[@hardlymovingpro]

Sí. Simplemente apriete a mano los pernos de la bomba de agua de 10 mm con una llave de trinquete de 1/4" usando la torsión de muñeca.

[@WTS-ut7pg]

Thanks your video was the best one yet I’ve seen on doing the Timing belt you are a very good Mechanic thanks again was a lot of help

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it helped! Thanks!

[@russellwayne1524]

Your video made this job fairly simple. Thank you.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your feedback!

[@larrym17]

THANK YOU for including a list of tools used. Wish more mechanics would do that at least for the non "standard socket set" tools. I've done a Subaru Forester (4 cam gears to align), and really wish I'd thought of the clamp thing to hold the belt in place.

[@hardlymovingpro]

You're welcome! You did a 4 cam timing belt job? Check this video out where I'm installation a new w/p and belt on a Mitsu 3000GT with 4 cams: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fIXTkKeMjbiVp7c

[@larrym17]

@@hardlymovingpro Yep, gotta love timing belts long enough to (almost) stand up in due to boxer engine.

[@MassSpectrumInd]

Seriously helpful, quality video! You might add the torque specs for the job in the description, and do some mini videos about tricks for situations like when the crankshaft pulley is jammed on there (that sprocket edge on this one is seriously easy to bend and cant be flattened back out without the teeth shattering right off it), torquing the crankshaft bolt back on properly, and so on. SUBSCRIBED!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for sharing!

[@herbs1956]

good explanation on Belt change, was able to see everything you did in the process . Thank you

[@hardlymovingpro]

You bet!

[@fawazhussin7519]

Wonderful video every step was helpful from a to z the only question I had from where should I get the cam shift holder tool the one with chane, thanks

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks! A Amazon link to the chain strap wrench should be in this video's description area.

[@aCam-ns2lm]

THANK YOU SO So So MUCH! What a GREAT video with such excellent TIPS! Following your excellent instructions I was able to do all of this on my '97 Avalon. Worked great! HOWEVER... Now I find the oil pump is failing. I should have replace it when I was doing the timing belt/water pump/seals but I didn't... SO, QUESTION... To do ONLY the oil pump I shouldn't have to do anything but remove tension on the belt and remove the crank pulley... In other words, do I need to do all the stuff to the "top end" or can I just do the bottom end items... I don't remember if the water pump is BLOCKING the oil pump or not... PLEASE ADVISE?! THANK YOU!!!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Are you referring to the power steering oil pump or the engine oil pump?

[@aCam-ns2lm]

@@hardlymovingpro HI! I did the power steering pump at the same time as the rest already, so... The ENGINE oil pump itself. It seems I DON'T have to remove the camshaft pulleys, timing belt cover backing, etc... Just the lower timing belt cover, and enough to remove the crank pulley, RIGHT??? THANK YOU! It would be great not to have to remove the engine mount, bracket and all that or the water pump again! LOL!

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@aCam-ns2lm I'm confused. How do you know that the oil pump is detective and needs replacement?

[@aCam-ns2lm]

@@hardlymovingpro HI! Thanks for taking the time to counsel me! I haven't checked the actual pressure yet but WILL do that before I start anything. However, the SYMPTOMS seems to indicate the oil pump is weak... Oil light flickers and sometimes stays on and there is an occasional knock and/or tick, especially when 'blipping' the throttle. NOT driving it because don't want to do any damage. Already dropped the oil pan and cleaned everything including oil pickup tube/screen. Plenty of good, clean, new, proper oil and filter. Just trying to think ahead/prepare! THANK YOU!

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@aCam-ns2lm start by checking or replacing the oil pressure sending unit. Also your knock sensors may be bad. Did you do a MIL / check engine light code scan?

[@clintnielsen8884]

Great video! No jabbering on, down and to the point!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@roberttravis5122]

Thanks, one of the best video's i've seen to do this job!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@latteplace76]

Dude you are a great mechanic. Very thorough.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks and glad you found the video useful!

[@georgesedeno7891]

Excellent work. Excellent video. Congratulations Man!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@luisclaudio277]

I enjoy this video very much. I have this job pending on my 02 Avalon. Thank you

[@hardlymovingpro]

Best of luck!

[@brandonmacedo7104]

Loved the video, very informative. Where did you find the chain tool to loose cam sprocket?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks! Link to the chain strap wrench should be in this video's description. Otherwise, a well stocked hardware store should carry it in the plumbing department.

[@fmz3218]

Thank you for the video. I am using this to replaces the water pump on friends toyota avalon. One quick question, why does the timing marks won’t lined up on his car? Both Cam sprockets lines up on the dot but the crank pulleys mark isn’t. I have rotated the crank five times and still not lining up. What gives?

[@hardlymovingpro]

You can use the paint marks on the new belt to line up the cam and crank pulleys.

[@Coach_cesar]

Currently got a 95 camry with 268,000 miles. Original everything. Already done rear main seal boutta seal up everything else soon

[@hardlymovingpro]

1st timing belt replacement?

[@kwutah1246]

Thanks for the help but shouldn't the coolant have been red and not green?

[@hardlymovingpro]

On these older Toyota's, the owners refill with universal green coolant. Wasn't going to do a coolant flush to change out to Toyota red.

[@sivucit]

Excellent video, as usual. I have done 2005 honda pilot timing belt replacement after seeing one of your video, i did it well. Thanks. I was unable to remove crank pulleY key(woodruff key) to replace crank seal, it was so stubborn, i used chisel and had no luck, then i didnot replaced crank seal, do u have any tips about how to remove such stubborn crank key from crankshaft. If you dont have answer then i dont think anybody has. I always learn something from your video everytime i watch .. Thanks for it..

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your post and kind comments! I've had the same problem before with the woodruff key that I was able to remove with mild chisel taps. Don't understand why you can't get yours out. Suggest you apply a little propane torch heat, then some chisel taps. See if that'll nudge it out.

[@ArchangelAlexander]

Best video ever, very needed, fully helpful

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you liked it!

[@jamesguralski5156]

I have a 2000 toyota solara! It's loosing coolant?! Somehow! I don't smell it or see smoke if head gasket was bad! I don't see any puddles under car! Are there any hoses in the back of engine block? Any help would be great...

[@hardlymovingpro]

Could be a hairline crack in the radiator that opens when hot.

[@mandytschida2610]

I didn't see the list of tools or were you referring to making mention of them in the video? Thank you. That seal puller looks much less likely to mar the shaft but the lip looks like it could break off under the seal. Any problems?

[@hardlymovingpro]

The seal puller lip is made of a high strength spring steel and will not break ... at least it hasn't broken on me yet. The tool is listed in the text description of this video under "show more" as a camshaft seal removal too.

[@theamerican7080]

Excellent work and an even better instructional video! Thanks for posting!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@theamerican7080]

@@hardlymovingpro I'm looking forward to using this video as a step-by-step reference when I do my '02 Highlander!

[@akhandananda9639]

Thank you, this was a huge help and it worked great! You are an amazing teacher!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it helped!

[@jpalacess4735]

beautiful work I've been watching your video a lot because I will be doing my water pump to my solara and was wondering what's the name of the tool you have to hold the camshaft pulley its the bar with the chain?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks! It's called a chain strap wrench. It's used by plumbers to twist iron pipes on and off. A link is provided in the video description.

[@jpalacess4735]

@@hardlymovingpro thank you

[@hardlymovingpro]

You bet!

[@Fish368]

An Unbelievable video! Exceptional explanation! Thank you! 🎉😮. Incredible!

[@hardlymovingpro]

You're very welcome!

[@kevinmalpica7663]

Going to do this job on my solara this weekend. Going to use this video as a guide. Doesn't seem like a tough job. I've done timing belts on civics and accords. Wish me luck

[@hardlymovingpro]

I would say that the Civic is more time consuming to perform than Toyota's V6. Published a video a few weeks back on how to do it.

[@jamesguralski5156]

Is there an oil pump gasket to change out? There was a lot of oil spray on side of motor on 2002 solara...

[@hardlymovingpro]

Nope. Oil leak problems from this engine emanates mostly from the camshaft seals.

[@LuisFlores-qo5ey]

I have a 97 v6 toyota camry how can I know if it has an interference engine before replacing timing belt? Thanks and great video!

[@hardlymovingpro]

97 1MZ-FE engine did not have VVT technology back then. Your engine is not interference until around 2000 on the ES300.

[@LuisFlores-qo5ey]

​@@hardlymovingprothanks alot!

[@hardlymovingpro]

You bet!

[@BillRize]

Great, detailed video. Thanks! About how long would it take with the engine out? I need to replace an engine and thinking belt, water pump etc should be done while it's out. Alternator etc won't be on the replacement engine.

[@hardlymovingpro]

If out of the car, around an hour.

[@sarascanlon9925]

Is it a must to replace the seals or is it just smart since it's all taken apart? I'm going to replace my water pump and this video has helped so damn much!

[@hardlymovingpro]

The seals do wear out and leak on this engine.

[@Pmerc11]

At 10:35, there is a unplugged plug coming off the wire harness, what is that to?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Power steering pump pressure sensor.

[@Pmerc11]

@hardlymovingpro thank you, long story short, I yanked that cable out when I took off the valve cover. Now trying to figure out how to repair it.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Non critical connection

[@Pmerc11]

@hardlymovingpro thank you so much man, Im breathing a huge sigh of relief right now.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@Pmerc11 no problem!

[@dilldowschwagginz2674]

Unfortunately my 1MZFe doesn't have the tensioner that bolts in from the bottom. It bolts in from the face (2006 Camry XLE)

[@hardlymovingpro]

Then watch this video. Fast forward to the tensioner removal portion: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZakh5WZepZ2ZpI

[@robertosifuentes5769]

I saw you use your impact for the crankshaft bolt, but what are the torque specs for that, the impact is just enough for the bolt not to get loose again?

[@hardlymovingpro]

That's a big bolt. Impact it back on and it won't come loose.

[@gregoryharris3493]

I'm in the process of completing mine now and can't get this harmonic balancer bolt off for the life of me. I tried to bump the starter and everything. Just ordered the high mass socket for my earthquake impact. Hopefully that does the trick

[@hardlymovingpro]

It will ... believe me, it will. But after you get the bolt off, you may have a problem getting the harmonic balancer off as well. Not tool bad if you have the pulley removal tool set.

[@gregoryharris3493]

@@hardlymovingpro I tried using removing the bolt with the high mass socket and it stripped the bolt a bit. I'm going counterclockwise so I think that the timing belt don't want to be changed.... lol.

[@123donmaster]

Thank you for the great step by step tutorial

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it was helpful!

[@123donmaster]

@@hardlymovingpro do I need to you the cam seal special install tool? Or can I use a socket or universal install tool/PVC pipe?

[@danwake4431]

I just bought a Milwaukee 'mid torque' impact. Curious if it will be enough to get that bolt off. Milwaukee states it has 600 lbs ft on high mode.

[@hardlymovingpro]

That should be adequate torque

[@keithcharles2113]

Very nice video. Well executed repair. Good tutorial.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you liked it!

[@mandytschida2610]

So I've watched a few of these now from different mechanics and for some reason my brain correlates the timing of the cams and the crank with magic. Help me understand. First set crank at TDC. The cams should then be in correct position. Remove belt. If one of the cams moves I can simply turn it so the marks on that sprocket line up with the respective indicator? I don't have to worry about compression stroke or anything? Just line up marks on all 3 shafts and install belt as you've showed?

[@hardlymovingpro]

That's correct. You can move the crank and cams a few degrees to help install the belt, then move them back. Afterwards, there should be no belt slack between the cams and crank. That's a common mistake made by rookies. They mount a new belt with around 1 cog of slack because the belt will not stretch on. But the cam and crank alignment marks are okay not realizing that the slack will result in 1 extra cog length.

[@roltyd22]

Thank you!! You just saved me about $500

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you!

[@oconnke1]

3:56 I'm having trouble getting the water pump over the two studs. The studs are tightened so much, I'm afraid of trying to remove them. I don't want them to break. There seems to be a little jump in your video right at that point. Did you reinstall the tire and jack up the engine a little so the water pump would clear the studs?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Place a wood block between the engine oil pan and a floor jack. The wood will prevent the oil pan from bending. Use the floor jack to lift the engine up around an inch or so to tilt the engine up. You should now have enough room to remove water pump.

[@oconnke1]

@@hardlymovingpro That did the trick. Thank you very much. After jacking it up about an inch or so, it came out as smooth as could be. 😅

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good deal!

[@car5car5]

Thanks for video! Did you use mark for crank?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Not needed at the crank.

[@ratipati2007]

I have a question -- if seals are good and not leaking as yours, should i still remove cam wheels and back cover to remove pump? Can pump be removed without removing the back cover? Thanks for any info.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Just remove the 10 mm dust shield bolts above and around the water pump. The shield will give and bend enough for you to slide out the water pump.

[@RoverIAC]

I have a problem.... the backing plate for the timing belt doesn't have any guide marks on it (that I can see) and with the crank set at TDC the upper cam wheels seem to be about 180 deg out..... is that just 'exhust stroke'? do I need to rotate the crank 180 deg? Also... did you remove the power-steering fluid container? it's hard to see in the video. I can not get the top timing cover to squeeze between the hose and the rear-upper-timing gear. .... I had to disconnect and move the power-steering fluid hose. (2001 Avalon aust build)

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes. Crank another 180 degrees. PS container can get in the way.

[@RoverIAC]

@@hardlymovingpro actually I think we both meant 360. cheers and thanks again.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Ops ... correct.

[@RoverIAC]

@@hardlymovingpro I cranked 360 but there are still no marks on the timing belt other then numbers and Toyota ????

[@hardlymovingpro]

A good quality belt should have 2 line marks for the camshafts and dotted lines for the crankshaft.

[@jsun3117]

Is a 22 mm harmonic balancer socket, as described, really necessary over a regular 22 mm impact socket?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Try to remove with a regular 22 mm as a first step in the repair. If it won't come off, use the 22 mm high mass socket.

[@jsun3117]

@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for the reply.

[@trefrom9th]

I snapped my Timing Cover Bolt under the Cam next to the firewall Any advice for how to get it out? Where would I put a floor jack to lift the engine a bit if possible?

[@hardlymovingpro]

I wouldn't worry about replacing it. Not a critical bolt.

[@GoldChampion23]

Great video!! You sound like bill murray by the way!!! That made the video even better haha

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@ajseuol1864]

Where can I buy the funnel that you used? That's a must have tool.

[@hardlymovingpro]

I provide a Amazon link in the text description of this video.

[@billybro1999]

About to do this job on my son's car tomorrow. Did you keep the engine jacked up or was it not necessary?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Passenger side front wheel should be off.

[@samf179]

Hey thanks for the video! I have a quick question though. Is it good to leave the oil that has leaked on to the car engine? Do you think it could provide some sort of protective layer to prevent corrosion? I noticed you didn't wipe the oil leakage off in the video.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Excess oil on a engine caused by some seal or gasket leak should be cleaned off (or power washed off with engine degreaser and pressurized water). Oil can degrade rubber, retains heat and in extreme cases can cause a fire. Like most mechanics, I clean off enough to complete a repair.

[@samf179]

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the reply and explanation Hardly Moving Productions. That is much appreciated! I have oil that has leaked out from my 99 Camry 3.0L (1MZ-FE) engine around the timing section and I wasn't sure if I should clean it or not. I will now though.

[@JacanaProductions]

Is the oil leak from the main seals you replaced? Is this a common issue, ie will a timing belt job with appropriate seals replaced file the leak, in my case it looks like it's coming from a move the exhaust manifold, timing cover gasket?

[@hardlymovingpro]

On these engines, the big source of oil leaks are from the camshaft seals.

[@darthgamer6080]

Need to do this repair soon on my car, seems pretty intimidating for me having never done this job myself!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Take it slow!

[@jamesstark3892]

Great video!! Unfortunately you forgot to tighten the second bolt for the power steering pump bracket.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good call!

[@jamesstark3892]

I retract my last comment. It was unnecessary and I apologize. You know what you are doing and I appreciate the video.

[@jamesstark3892]

Is it true that there are paint marks on the belt that align with the timing marks on pulleys?

[@jamesstark3892]

I am look forward to doing this on my Camry

[@hardlymovingpro]

Correct.

[@sc00b3rt]

This looks like a pain in the rump. I totally respect mechanics for this kind of work because I do not have the patience.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Not too bad after doing enough of them.

[@devonlehto2949]

i wonder what shop would charge to do this job?

[@hardlymovingpro]

I've seen it as high as $1,800

[@billc2381]

Great Video, use of tools and easy to follow. For turning crankshaft while belt is on to TDC all 3, crank and cams, turn clockwise I understand but why is it ok to go counterclockwise a bit to get belt on. I thought you may have damage in the opposite direction. Also how do you know you are on up stroke or downstroke TDC. Should you open the No 1 spark plug to see?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your post! You can go almost 30 degrees in the opposite direction before a valve touches the piston. Even so, the valves won't get damaged since the pistons are stationary (unlike if the belt brakes while the engine is running). At downstroke TDC, the crankshaft TDC alignment mark would be 180 degrees off while the camshaft TDC would be in alignment.

[@billc2381]

@@hardlymovingpro Makes sense and understand the concept now before doing the work. Thank You. Oh, by the way the video was very well done with excellent clarity (your voice), sound and getting into all the tough angles.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@billc2381 Thanks! You might want to consider spraying brake kleen at or around the clutch contact surfaces to help dissipate the oil. Don't do it with the engine running.

[@billc2381]

@@hardlymovingpro I removed the belt from top instead of bottom like you did. Unfortunately, the right bank or camshaft close to fire wall moved forward a couple inches. Initially all in line like your video. How to reline. Crankshaft and left bank fine are still aligned. Tried to move back but felt resistance.

[@billc2381]

Should I just turn clockwise to align marks?

[@volvo850r3]

Shouldn’t you crank a couple rotations before install to double check timing

[@hardlymovingpro]

If you want but I don't. As long as there's no belt slack between the cams and the crank and everything is in its TDC alignment, engine rotation does nothing IMHO.

[@volvo850r3]

@@hardlymovingpro gotcha.. great video man