Here's Why I Don't Buy Toyota Branded Parts!!

[@cbayless4294]

Well good luck with after market parts hope they last for Ya. 236k on OEM say's it all!!!!

[@phatbaby4234]

Maybe he likes changing parts. Don't mess with a mans hobbies. lol

[@dc6233]

Exactly, I'll pay more for OEM. We have all seen aftermarket parts fail in a very short time, especially the lower ball joints.

@@dc6233 $4000 more (both sides)? Toyota doesn't make the parts anyway, they just put their name on them.

[@ChevyCitation]

Here's Why You Never Mess With Your Factory Toyota Parts!!

[@GrandPrix46]

Keep us updated on how long the Made in Thailand Moog hubs last.

[@55azguy]

I owned an auto repair shop for 40 years, I’ve used Moog parts but there is no way would I ever use Moog bearings. Too many failures. Time to pay a tech , truck and mad customers . That’s a poor business decision. You want to take that chance, it’s not worth it to me.

[@ateam6486]

@@55azguy MOOG did get caught buying cheap Bearings and stamping the MOOG name on them.

[@ericlapke4872]

Stop putting these inferior parts on this vehicle it’s a crime

[@tacticalcenter8658]

Moog are lower end parts in comparison to oem.

[@CarlosHaeussler]

So what are close or better parts than OEM in your experience ?

[@benchmark3332]

@@CarlosHaeussler No one can match Toyota OEM quality.

[@MrCROBosanceros]

@@benchmark3332 Exactly!

[@eashan5022]

​@@CarlosHaeussler I'm not from the USA but when it comes to Toyota parts no one is better than OEM. There's a japanese company named 555 and they r the closest one when it comes to OEM quality and fitment. Don't know if that brand is available in the USA. They last almost as long as the OEM one with 60% less price.

[@PH020]

The cheapest quality ball joints... do a KZbin search on cutting a moog ball joint to see how it's connected with a plastic washer 😂

[@allmyfriendsaredead3107]

Why do you make a simple part swap seem so complicated? It's like the end of the world when something simple fails smh

[@firstlast---]

Because it makes good content. His videography and editing is top notch

[@Gary_in_NoVA]

I think he did a great job explaining everything. Not too complicated at all.

[@monkkeyboy18]

@@Gary_in_NoVAwould have been easier if he left the hub and dust shield off to get the ball joint remover on and press

[@duncancremin1708]

I think what’s going on is, he’s not a pro mechanic and he’s making content for diy-ers. He’s deliberately dumbing it down, to explain it to people who don’t know what he’s doing or who don’t understand the mechanics involved. Yes, I found it irritating, at times, but if I’d never done this sort of work myself, I think I’d probably appreciate him being so pedantic. I’m also aware that I’m predisposed to irritation because of the strange American words for many of the components, so I’m careful to cut some slack for that.

[@bewhiskeredjuarez6851]

My knees hurt watching you work LOL

[@Chorizomicks]

lol he’s obviously sponsored by moog. Guy making a tool out of himself by saying he’d never buy a original part from Toyota but his original ones lasted 236k miles lmao

[@darwinbodero7872]

Fr. Clown af behavior

[@icebreaka1969]

2:00 do not push down on breaker bars when you try so hard to loose a nut, try pulling up instead, pushing down with body weight that can be easier to get hurt if the nut loosen up suddenly, or something break, as a mechanic for over 25 years, I learned in the hard way. always use pull motion, if not enough strength, extend the handle with a pipe, it will work much better and safer.

[@NWGarage]

I heavily agree , I’m always so nerve wracked watching him put so much force on a harbor freight breaker bar that could snap at any moment and hit him lol

[@agentjwa]

Are you sure that's the correct ball joint? I've never seen a ball joint where the snap ring was just hanging out in the air like that. Every single one had it butted right against the face so that the ball joint cannot move at all. The way that one is in there allows it to possibly move like 1/2 inch down if it wants to. Unlikely as it's loaded from the bottom but I'm quite sure that is not the correct part.

[@Charlie-dv7ev]

I've installed literally over 1000 ball joints. That's common with aftermarket ones. The snap ring is only there as backup just in case. It's a heavy press fit. That ball joint isn't moving unless the bore it's pressed into has issues.

[@agentjwa]

@@Charlie-dv7ev it probably won't move because it's loaded in the direction to keep pushing in. I'm guessing it's either the wrong part or it's a part that fits multiple applications and moog is just using it because they can. Either way it's a sloppy way of doing it. Every other setup with a snap ring has like 1/32", if that, of gap.

[@Charlie-dv7ev]

@@agentjwa How many ball joints have you installed? I've been doing this for 28 years. This is what you get with aftermarket ball joints. It is an interference fit. The snap ring is not even needed. It is. there as back just up in case. Many vehicles out there don't even have snap rings. Just press it and forget it.

[@ateam6486]

yeah at 9.06 you see old joint and its correct. That new joint sticking up might hit the CV shaft. This has to be a joke video.

[@Charlie-dv7ev]

@@ateam6486 Not even close. There is plenty of clearance. Seen this exact scenario 100s of times.

[@Chorizomicks]

Bought OEM Upper and Lower control arms left and right for my 07 4R, 1200$ from Serra Toyota during a sale. Installed it myself. Easy peasy

[@CL-yp1bs]

Same, just got the 25% off and free shipping a few days back. Toyota runs them a few times per year. People are fools if they run anything but OEM on critical components on a Toyota. Literally turning one of the most reliable vehicles ever made into junk.

[@Chorizomicks]

@ free ship, no tax

[@jonathanratliff4780]

@@CL-yp1bsyou nailed it…. and it’s not rocket science either

[@TotalWarriorLegends]

​@@CL-yp1bswhich site?

[@jamram9924]

I just priced upper and lower control arms (bushings and ball joint included) on an 04 4 Runner SR-5 with OEM parts from Japan (Amayama) , they were 50% less than Toyota dealers in my area. I’ve ordered many parts from them and twice I paid a very small customs fee for imported parts directly from Japan. However, I’ve saved thousands of dollars on the last 3 orders. Toyota 4 Runners are well built vehicles, with proper maintenance, they can last decades.

[@Master_TaeKwonDo]

Same. I get basically all my parts from impex Japan or partsouq in Dubai. Same place often dealers do and then they charge crazy prices. Just got hub assemblies with bearings for $140 usd each from impex Japan. Partsouq for all the other parts for front axle hub full refresh. Control arms also only $140ish for uppers and $200ish for lowers. No reason at all to go aftermarket. My originals have lasted 294k miles over 25 years and going to change out to only originals again on my 1999 Land Cruiser.

[@asadb1990]

Yeah toyota oem parts are readily available online. You just have to find them.

[@bearing_aficionado]

Depends on the Toyota model, I can just walk over to the line and pick the freshest one off the line its being produced on.😂

[@oscarflores9719]

Can I get the website for the parts?

[@jamram9924]

@ it’s described in the post

[@inhocsigno9151]

There are many fake Toyota parts being sold as OEM, but are Chinese knockoff in a fake OEM looking package.. Cheaper, and lower in quality. If the part seller has a Toyota dealership address, I trust the parts as true OEM. Often it is easier just to go to the Toyota dealer and get the part.

[@RYTHMICRIOT]

There are cheap wheel hub/bearings available for purchase on Amazon/eBay which are manufactured in China and they have some people who have shown that the parts have failed while the vehicle was traveling in traffic resulting in the wheel coming off and causing an accident.

[@charlesb4267]

The problem is exacerbated by buying online period .. why I call companies like Amazon "Scamazon" as its far too easy to flog off anything by that method and the counterfeit market has become a HUGE industry because of this non store front type of transaction. Oil and fuel filters are a prime example of knock offs gone wild and the unsuspecting may wipe out their engine or diesel fuel system by using a poorly made knock off.

[@petermark9660]

Yes, for sure. One time I purchased Toyota OEM on Amazon- returned it soon as I saw it. I purchase my parts online at a local Toyota dealership at a very nice discount, I pick up the parts so no shipping costs. The oil filters from Toyota inexpensive.

[@deimosphob]

My local lexus dealership is actually cheaper on parts, usually I just cross-reference parts and input there if its toyota and not lexus. Some things brought down to damn near moog and skp parts prices on dealer discounted parts for legitimate OEM parts. You can also ask at their parts counter for their ebay page, most dealers have one, and you can check for stuff thats very heavily discounted.

[@G-ra-ha-m]

I'd only get Toyota parts from a dealer, or go for a decent aftermarket. Buying 'OEM' parts online is unsafe.

[@gabeesquivelLethalZR1]

Time for a Milwaukee M18 High Torque impact.

[@antoniovelez6102]

You nailed

[@rubicon3929]

You have the correct ball joint tool, you just did used the adapter on the tool correctly to remove your lower ball joint off.

[@henrythe83rd18]

At 02:02 Was that a chicken casually runnin in the street in the background?!! Awesome!!! LOL

[@AllEyezOnRod]

Should have sent the Car Care Nut a message for some help

[@charley95sheridan44]

Bingo, Amd is totally legit, I'm a regular customer of his.

[@phatbaby4234]

And watched his video on OEM parts as well. lol

[@jakemason9436]

Thanks Jimmy. Nice CarHt jacket. Do the hood wrap. Curious to see the result.

[@charliedc2A]

I would redo the hood and keep it oe as possible. Keep the whole thing oe as possible. That's just me. It's a very nice Toyota. Nothing wrong with after market good parts. Keep up the good work 👍

[@ppeterson9359]

There are a number of Toyota dealerships that have an online presence offering parts at a significant discount. With all the $ you’re saving doing it yourself, go OEM.

[@MrDSchroer]

When it comes to the ball joints, you should always go OEM, no matter what. It costs more, but you’re gonna see once your ball joints fail, and tear up all that hard work you just put in. There are countless accounts all over the Internet regarding aftermarket ball joints in Toyotas, failing long before the OEM ball joints do. In most cases, under normal wear and tear, the OEM ball joints have been known to make it at least 200,000 miles. The most common thing that I see and hear regarding aftermarket ball joints(depending on which brand) , you will make it at most 90,000 miles before they fail. When it comes to Toyota ball joints, that is the one Achilles heel and is the one thing that you absolutely do not want to cheap out on. I pray that you don’t end up having your ball joints fail out on you while you’re driving down the road, but you are most certainly taking a huge risk !!

[@CL-yp1bs]

Absolutely, this is borderline harmful information in this video telling people to use aftermarket ball joints.

[@tacticalcenter8658]

Agreed

[@appleimacdude]

A novice here, but I heard something about having to "center" the steering wheel so it is correct once major front end work has been done - different from alignment, as far as I know.

[@G-ra-ha-m]

Modern cars have steering angle sensors that need resetting too.

[@johnfitzgerald5158]

I use a DeWalt battery-powered impact to take off my hub bearing nuts, and mine are on there with 263 ft lbs final torque. It makes quick work of it with the impact action. No bracing required.

[@rpasco9352]

No need to buy a very expensive cordless impact wrench for $$$ unless you are a mechanic or very serious amateur and will have lots of use for it in the future. A decent low cost electric model will do fine without breaking the bank account of a weekend mechanic. Also, just saw a video about the new line of Walmart cordless impact wrench that compare very well to the much more expensive brands' models. This is an eye-opener !

[@johnfitzgerald5158]

@rpasco9352 for less than $300, and it matches the batteries of my other DeWalt equipment, it paid for itself in labor savings in 1 use. And now I know the best parts were used and were installed correctly. When you start breaking breaker bars, and busting your knuckles working on your truck, the logical decision is to get the right piece of equipment for the right job.

[@timsexton]

1:50 >>> Here's a tip. Take the half of the jack handle (that is removable), put it on the end of your breaker bar, and use it to extend your breaker bar for easier CV axle nut removal. *_1992 Toyota Celica Turbo All-trac_* *_2008 Toyota Tundra 4.7L 4x4_* *_TRUST !!_*

[@YouSpamTard]

It looks to me like he added way to much grease to that lower ball joint. In a short amount of time that ball joint is going to go squeak squeak. I'm a Honda guy, but hands down Toyota suspensions, especially their ball joints and tie rods, are way way better than anything else made. Good luck and God bless.

[@JESSE-de7sx]

Good for you, Toyota parts are not cheap. but if you can find a good quality aftermarket part use it, but when it comes to electrical parts I would definitely go dealership only.

[@AgentLokVokun]

BRB. Going to the dealer to get a 196 bulb. 😂

[@RickTrajan]

Sensors for sure, I'd even go junkyard for things that generally don't go bad/not a common failing part of the paticular vehicle(trans speed sensor).

[@johnfitzgerald5158]

As info, I learned the hard way to buy OEM hub bearing assemblies for my Ram 2500. This was after 2 aftermarket bearings lasted less than a year each. I did a lot of investigation on the interwebs and found that although the aftermarket companies get licensed by the OEM (in my case SKF) to be able to produce knock offs of the original, they often cheap out on important things like materials and bearing seals. Once the seal fails, the bearing fails shortly thereafter. Note that the OEM SKFs cost me twice the amount compared to aftermarket, and they were not as abundant in supply. I don't know if this will be the same case for the Toyota, but I know Moog has lost their once good reputation. I think there are some things you can get away with using aftermarket, and sometimes even improve upon, but never again for me on bearings.

[@CL-yp1bs]

MOOG is often called the "problem creator" in the mechanic world. There is not one brand of aftermarket ball joints or bearings you should EVER use on a Toyota. Its dangerous at worst, a waste of time and money at best. They never last. OEM has very very strict ISO standards they require parts manufacturers to adhere to... aftermarket parts can be from the same company (people think they are getting a deal, newsflash they are not) and oh wow oh wow... the SAME brand parts are trash. Because they dont follow the strict ISO standards that the OEM parts are required to by the manufacturers. Even DENSO AND AISIN, who are both owned by Toyota... make cheaper (albeit still pretty decent) aftermarket parts and fluids that are not oem, and of a lower quality than the OEM Toyota parts made by Denso and Aisin. Keep it easy on yourself, just buy from a dealer, if you want good deals buy online from the dealer, I just got a 25% off coupon from Toyota a few days ago and I bought parts for me and one of my family members.. we got 25% off plus free shipping direct from Toyota dealer online. Cant beat that for good OEM parts, most made in Japan that will last hundreds of thousands of miles. I dont care if MOOG is made in the USA, its Trash and any mechanic worth a damn will tell you that. They USED to be good... been a long time since Moog was worth a damn.

[@robno5223]

I replaced a hub rear hub bearing on a Highlander the Internet said it was a Koyo bearing when I got it apart it was NTN, with the bearing number I can get one for a lot less than the dealer. I don't look at Moog anymore quality is not there. If you think Toyota OEM is expensive try Volvo or Mercedes.

[@wyomikey65]

​@@robno5223NTN is a good brand. They make the timing belt tensioner you find in Aisin timing belt kits.

[@BLACKBOX2TURK]

Sometimes aftermarket is better they meet and or exceed OEM as well with warranty.

[@AgentLokVokun]

Warranty is worthless if you need to do the job twice under a year or more.

[@AgentLokVokun]

Warranty is worthless if you have to do the job twice in the same year.

[@rpasco9352]

Choosing aftermarket parts doesn't have to be like "picking a pig in a poke" (getting unknown quality). Do your research ! Amazon is famous for its user reviews - use them. This is why I "believe in Democracy" - a part with 1000+ user reviews will tend to show how good or bad the quality is despite the obvious reviews where the reviewers don't know much about what they are reviewing or are just pissed off because they don't know the right way to install a damage-able part (boots, bearings, etc.).

[@antilogism]

Sometimes they fix OEM defects and/or use better materials but it's hard to be sure in many cases. My personal experience with most chain stores is that all they have is bottom of the barrel at a premium price and a long warranty that only covers a replacement part.

[@cmr2079]

You can get a corded impact that puts out 450ftlbs of torque if you don't have a compressor.

[@johnhow3624]

Hi Jimmy might be a good idea to paint the dust shields mine rotted off so l left them off didn't notice any difference !

[@NWGarage]

Precision hubs are great ! Have used them always for my customers for years , pretty much never had to replace one yet , ever

[@paulluna8099]

Moog the synthesizer manufacture may have some issue with Moog motor parts.

[@bobbysuazjFhvcfgh]

Jimmy’s power tools are still on strike 😂😂

[@Viper34TTV]

I’d lift it and do a interior detail (high quality seat covers, new radio etc) protect the interior for as long as possible

[@drakeforte568]

For the axle nut and high torque nuts, I invested in a mid torque impact wrench and it more than paid for itself when you do the job yourself. I'm going to use the impact wrench in removing the water heater anode rod too.

[@chuckschillingvideos]

If you think Toyota parts are expensive, try sourcing any of the European car makers' parts. This video is horsesh!t.

[@nordicpride9708]

Why the heck would you put that GARBAGE on a reliable Japanese vehicle when you can buy NSK on rock auto who’s supplies Toyota and it’s made in Japan!!! You make zero sense dude

[@williamlo2976]

I understand about using some aftermarket parts. I just replaced front lower control arms, struts, rear shocks and converted rear air suspension ti spring on my GX470 (basically a fancy 4th gen 4Runner) using OEM parts would have been thousands as well, especially if I would've kept air spring and adjustable shocks. I used KYB and the rear adjustable also stamped KYB and I spent less than $100 for both rear shocks.

[@jt4277]

As a former mechanic and a Toyota owner, I would disagree - Toyota parts are legendary for quality, and there is value to keeping everything OEM. I buy my parts from Toyota dealers online to save costs. That said, Moog parts are exceptional quality for aftermarket parts and I used them as replacements on my Chevy truck with great results.

[@rpasco9352]

I can't believe all the replies saying Moog parts have lost quality and have obviously gone down-hill ! Who to believe ?

[@jt4277]

⁠ - I think it depends on what you’re comparing them to. I’ve used their ball joints, tie rod ends, and idler arms, but not bearings. They have a reputation for being better than Chevy or Ford, but I wouldn’t say the same of Toyota. If we’re comparing to other aftermarket parts, they’re very good. For bearings, I’d probably go with Timken and NGK.

[@richardmartinez4145]

​@rpasco9352 FWIU Moog has more than one line. I believe the Pro line is still high quality. That said, I will use Denso and other high-quality manufacturers, but for suspension, I go OEM.

[@mikeburnett7028]

That ball joint is too tall for that installation. There is too much gap between the spring clip and ball joint. These are the wrong ball joints.

[@ateam6486]

I think it will hit the CV shaft. This must be a joke video.

[@TradeWorksLLC]

15:17 Is it just me or does that seal in your hands look awfully similar in size, shape & construction to the “unknown” seal - @ TimeMarker 5:58 - that came w/ the MOOG Hub Assembly. I know you mentioned something along the lines of that seal not fitting on the CV side so if it really wasn’t identical to the “National Seal (Part#: 710573)” then I would be dumbstruck unable to think what MOOG wants users to do with it.

[@Aldarris]

Moog used to be okay but now they've moved onto cheaper manufacturers. Better off with Sankei 555.

[@Grâce-n1d4x]

5:26 I found the problem, you're installing a Mazda part in a Toyota vehicle... noob!

[@thomasjones613]

👎

[@bearing_aficionado]

I make bearings for a living and my company is an OEM supplier of hub bearings for Toyota, Honda, Ford, and Tesla. And is an OEM supplier of transmission and differential bearings for Ford and Honda.

[@briantimberlake3114]

What is the name of this company and bearings, please.

[@bearing_aficionado]

@briantimberlake3114 NSK

[@phatbaby4234]

@@bearing_aficionado Top notch!

[@18avshalom]

In the description of this channel you will find that it says this channel is for entertainment purposes only and not to do what is done in these videos. As an ASE certified Master technician, I completely agree with that.

[@ateam6486]

Did you see that he put in the wrong ball joint. Go to 9.06 to see the old joint. Then his new joint put in and its half inch of splines sticking up. Might have hard time with the axle clearance.

[@johnmartin2079]

For information you should put a drop of oil on the dry antiseize what will activate it for final torque.

[@c.h.r.i.s2253]

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 Don't buy Toyota parts 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@ithoughtitoldyou1956]

WOW guy all that I just knock the ball joint down out of the hole with a hammer takes 30 seconds no clamps pullers no nothing I change Ball joints all day everyday. You are very very inexperienced.

[@jws3925]

screw you. You said you would reveal the price difference at the end. I watched all your pontificating and at the end you did not reveal the prices but tried to "hook" us into watching your next video. You lost a viewer because of all this leading the viewers to "tell me what you think" just to increase your algorithm and then try to get more viewership for your next video by a cheesy means. Yes, you got a comment out of me but it is the last time. Was it worth it?

[@jburdman7]

Aftermarket is cheaper??!?! The information value is high with that one

[@CSTLLNS]

Turn the wheel to expose the caliper bolts and its a piece of cake you have all the room in the world.

[@picklerix6162]

I bought a Harbor Freight impact wrench for these types of jobs.

[@RayleighCriterion]

The axle nut comes off easy with an impact gun, I have taken both of mine off this way to replace the wheel hubs. I can also use my steel wheel and remove the nut while the tire is down on the ground giving resistance to turning. I have a DeWalt electric impact and with it's 330 ft/lbs of removal torque is more than sufficient to remove any axle nut.

[@ateam6486]

Did you notice he put in the wrong ball joint. New joint was Much bigger showing about half inch of splines then he put on the retainer clip. At 9.06 you see old joint and no half inch of splines sticking up.

[@autophile-cv621]

Good job Jimmy. I have used Moog parts since the 1960's and always had good luck & long life. Keep up the good work.

[@lpad9651]

On a friend's 2004 toyota avalon, OEM struts, sold as individual pieces not as an assembly priced at $2,500. Per location. Each more than the entire vehicle was priced at. Gabriel complete struts cost $99.00. They rode well.

[@rpasco9352]

Show me the web page that claims $2500 per wheel. I simply don't believe that's the going price from any vendor.

[@lpad9651]

@@rpasco9352 FROM THE DEALER. Each component sold separately.

[@geraldwilson5954]

Best of luck to you there is no way I would fit tofu parts on my vehicle when I am 3000 miles from home.

[@wolleyreikivalley]

“one thing i can tell right away” is ur axle nut was loose lol

[@wolleyreikivalley]

this video proves ur channel is doubling down on being objectively wrong. you give terrible advice. have fun doing this job again soon.

[@cryptochronic1]

I would’ve taken the end pipe from the jack to use for extra leverage at the end of the breaker bar.

[@jorgesanchezcaracoza360]

If there is no other option you have to go to the dealer. But if there are proven good after market parts go with them. They will give you same or more warranty for less $. But always put a good Quality brand as you also invest on your time.

[@JB-wt7mu]

Not the right tools? Sale some of your studio lighting and I’ll bet you could afford a new impact and a compressor

[@RMartin631]

Did you take the additional length of the crow's foot into account when torquing the bearing assembly?

[@alext8828]

Just did an F3 word-search for anyone using the word "crow's foot". Thank you for catching that. You're probably the only one in the universe with a brain.

[@RMartin631]

@@alext8828, yeah, I'm the guy that people call when they can't find a solution to their problem. I have a small circle of very intelligent friends that are experts in their respective fields. Sometimes they call me and sometimes I call them. Some of the fields are mechanics, biological warfare, telecommunications, financial, and stuff like that.

[@davewallace9048]

Moog is junk!!!

[@joe2215]

Add 1" steel pipe for leverage, makes it pretty easy, and don't forget to tighten to correct torque rating

[@dbatn9827]

oem parts may last many many years and 200k miles but aftermarket parts will not. my 17 year old toyota truck has got 250k+ miles on it and still has original wheel bearings, do not think aftermarket would last that long. LOL

[@FIVEVEEZEE]

I smell Moog sponsorship! You can get Koyo or NSK hubs. They are definitely more than Moog, but screw doing that job again in 50k! Life is too short to be swapping out cheap parts

[@John8910]

Rock Auto. Never had issues ever with them. Parts are so cheap and delivered quickly. You can rebuild full suspension front and back for the same price as one corner from NAPA. Same part numbers and all!!!

[@marklagace5728]

Look how much mileage you got on toyota parts, lol

[@trucavalier]

Toyota parts or denso!

[@Bbtaco-w9j]

I tried MOOG parts on a Tacoma once. Never again. They did not hold up. I only use Toyota OEM. Some online Toyota dealers sell parts at a decent discount. Your impact wrench must be really weak. Mine zips the CV axle nuts off with ease.

[@Sci-Mon1]

Yep. You have to do a lot of pricing around but you can eventually find a dealership online that sells parts at a reasonable price. For instance I found a dealership online that sells the pink coolant for $12/gallon instead of the $30+ that most do.

[@ateam6486]

MOOG got caught years ago buying cheap bearings and then stamping their name on it.

[@heymanoutdoors7752]

You said Moog was good decent parts lol. You will be changing that crap soon and wishing you went OEM.

[@socalpaul487]

I don't know what air compressor you have, but you should get rid of that coil air hose and use either 3/8" or even better, 1/2" Flexzilla hose with the correct high flow fittings.

[@weloveups831]

I am finding it extremely hard to find any quality aftermarket these days.!

[@joselozano0528]

I have that style of ball joint press works great, I have the add on kit as well.

[@SolarMillUSA]

@13:01 it's not the metal shavings that are the worst thing you need to worry about. Whenever you use an abrasive (cutting wheel, sandpaper, grinder, etc) what happens as you use it? It wears down, right? Where does the grit go? Yeah. If that grit is hard enough to cut through hardened steel, you don't want to shower that grit into your bearings, hinges, pivots, ball joints, or painted surfaces. It will continue to cut for a long, long time after it become unattached.

[@SolarMillUSA]

@2:20 get the milwaukee 18v 1/2" impact. It's a beast and only costs around $130. Plus no cords or compression running in the background. (don't get me wrong, i love my air tools. I have over 25 of them in all kinds)

[@vincentgotter4669]

Putting that jack handle that was right behind you when you were leaning on that breaker bar. Next time just slipped that over the end of that breaker bar. I use mine that way all the time little extra leverage.

[@kapilsds7]

Doing DIY repairs for me i had plenty of time to remove rust and dust and clean them paint them.

[@Hidy_Ho]

I'm going to give this channel 1 or 2 more videos before deciding to stay with it or not. I mean the video is titled "Here's Why I Don't Buy Toyota Branded Parts!!" which has nothing to do with the content of the video (which is just a repeat of the last few videos) but will be discussed in the next video!!! He does like to (unnecessarily) stretch out the contents ...

[@jws3925]

That is just one of the reasons I will not watch anymore of his videos

[@kwacz]

yep found other videos that had titles that dont match so I am done since my time is being wasted watching completely unrelated content.

[@BryanTorok]

I came to the comments to say much the same thing. I watched through 19 minutes of video because of the title. I figured the the huge difference in price would have something (or everything) to do with it. On the other hand, there are YT channels that warn against using aftermarket parts for poor quality.

[@devdhamija7585]

I wish i read this before i watched the video. I want my time back!

[@Duskorn]

Don't even give it more videos, Just call it quits now. I am. The content isn't even GOOD if we're being honest. I mean no one, literally NO one will drop what they are doing because a new 1Road video just dropped. He knows his content is bad too, hence why he does the titles like he does

[@RickTrajan]

Highly advice getting an electric impact gun - they're fairly affordable (except the battery) and you can decide whatever brand you wanna go in by whatever tools you might need. There are plenty of lighter impacts that pack a punch nowadays (and it doesn't matter what brand anymore).

[@shanekirkpatrick1513]

.... just remove the hub bolt before taking the wheel off 5 head.

[@steveolive9991]

He works on cars and doesn't know about placing a cheater bar (pipe) over the breaker bar to increase leverage???

[@Master_TaeKwonDo]

Love your stuff. Suggestion, just get Toyota parts from Japan. Impex Japan. For my 100 series Land Cruiser I just got hub assemblies for $140 usd each and includes outer and inner bearings for that price. Original Toyota. With delivery, $350 usd! Didn’t need but at 300k miles and 25 year old, the new originals are so cheap that when comparing to price of just bearings which is what I needed for one side, and how hub assemblies make work less, it was a no brainer to get new ones. Yes takes about 3 weeks from order to delivery from impex Japan but them and partsouq in Dubai are so cheap for Toyota originals! Plus all diagrams and parts are listed on partsouq for ur specific model once you enter VIN. They automatically know the date of manufacture for your car. I ordered hub assemblies which include bearings. I ordered every single part from the flange to the dust little plate that goes into knuckle to the washer, oil seals, c clips, flanges, dust caps, the gasket, the claw and bolts and cone washers - I got everything for about $700. I’m gonna order the control arms in the future and they’re also about $140 each for the upper And about $200 each for the lower at impex Japan. Knuckle about $300 compared to $1700 here in Canada! And these prices still way cheaper than any dealer in USA. In our 100 series landcruiser/LX470 Facebook group with like 20k people, many of us order from impex Japan or partsouq in Dubai. Partsouq takes about 5 days from order to delivery to my place in eastern Canada. Done it 5 times in last year for parts.

[@rickroel4994]

Get a Milwaukee impact dude.

[@jesusramos-my2qr]

I mean its easy to find out the oe brands besides denso and aisin, for wheel bearing its nsk with are on rock auto and srill made in Japan, also the suspension is kyb the original is more cushier but in a truck like this its pointless to pay dealer price things like the steering rack and control arms are actually made by aisin which are likely discontinued besides dealer

[@67syncmaster]

Did you consider repairing the threads on the driver's side knuckle with a heli-coil repair kit and replacing the bolts from Toyota?

[@patrickengle9344]

Afermarket parts are disigned for planned obsolescence ie most parts are only designed to last 2 yrs or 50k miles. Most parts had "life time warrantees" when people kept cars for 2 yrs now that people keep cars 7 yrs life time warrantees rarely exist. Some aftermarket are cost justifiable if easily changeable but if expensive to replace such as timing belts, oem parts that last the life of the car are more justifiable than 60k aftermarket junk. Some aftermarket parts ie electrical components may not have the same specifications and are less durable and/or may set codes, misfire, etc. whereas oem parts are less likely to suffer the same problems. Amazon does offer some oem parts at discount prices.

[@brassmule]

4:52 Precison is the house brand for Oh Oh Oh O'Reilly. Someone probably had work done on that side of the vehicle after the incident that caused the damage to the front bumper, and the shop used crap parts.

[@NWGarage]

That’s their premium line , great quality

[@ddemier]

This guy replaces unnecessary parts just so new parts match both sides. Who cares??????

[@rpasco9352]

"The [front right hub] bolts don't have any form of thread locker on them." Then what's all that white stuff painted onto all them ???

[@larryfritz9459]

I use the impact to loosen the axel nut and the wheel nuts before lifting the car. If you're going to do your own maintenance, buy a good impact, air hammer and compressor. The savings in time and labor will pay for them quickly.

[@fortis619]

SKF wheel hubs are pretty good too

[@duncancremin1708]

On larger vehicles such as that, I’d always use 3/4” drive tools. The square on a 1/2” breaker bar can do amazing things, but when it fails it’s possible to hurt yourself, if you’re jumping on a cheater bar like that. The small number of tools you actually need, would not break the bank, if bought individually.

[@1RoadGarage]

I need to get 3/4” drive for sure. 👍

[@rpasco9352]

You are seriously in need of a decently powerful impact wrench to get all those large nuts off. That made the job 10 times more difficult that it should have been.

[@jimb4090]

Hey....might be wrong, but.....your original ball joint C clip was resting ON the knuckle. Your NEW ball joint had the circlip waaaaay above the knuckle which later will allow the ball assembly to possibly drop in the knuckle with negative loading. ??????

[@ateam6486]

I wonder if the CV shaft hits it. This has got to be a joke video. No way is this serious.

[@ex8280]

Have umbrella coverage for that vehicle, when that ball joint gives, all hell is about to break lose at 10mph.

[@Asian_Connection]

Good luck with moog! Hope you get paid enough for this pump. I just unsubsidized

[@antilogism]

On 7:17, torqueSetting = TorqueSpec * Length/(Length + Offset). I use a tape measure to get (L+O) to the crowfoot's center in one shot if it's not set at 90 deg (where error is tiny). Also, bear in mind that this isn't perfect since the Length is to the centerpoint of where your hand is. Probably videos on this.

[@oldguy2082]

I'm sorry, but inmo,Moog isn't what it once was in terms of quality. Front hubs from NTN are excellent ( imho match or exceed OEM standards and i only have to install them one time) and cost more than twice most of units on EBay or Amazon. What's your time and effort worth?