Here's Why You NEVER MESS WITH TOYOTA SUSPENSION COMPONENTS!!

[@ahmadghosheh3104]

The DIY struggle is what makes it worth it. Good job Jimmy

[@captainjosue]

My transmission output shaft bearing gave out afterr 326,000 miles on my Toyota Celica. I got the transmission rebuilt and took a look at the interior gears and synchros. After 326k miles they still look brand new. Practically no grinding, no wear. It's incredible. The transmission is the original one from factory built in 2001. I got it rebuilt with Toyota OEM parts. Toyota makes some amazing quality parts.

[@Bbtaco-w9j]

Dorman and MOOG parts are inferior to Toyota OEM. I have been wrenching Toyotas 25 years and OEM parts especially ball joints are far superior.

[@jesusramos-my2qr]

Your right only closest is mevotech supreme but I gotta say my old ball joint and tie rods were beefier than the replacement

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

I agree been a toyota tech for 40 years Doorman and moog parts are way inferior to toyota Oem parts especially ball joints as well as water pumps and timing Components @Bbtaco-w9j

[@rkan2]

used 2nd hand original parts over anything "OE" or "OEM"!

[@KendrasEdge757]

So funny watchin him measure Dorman and infer that Dorman is superior lol this is his first Toyota on his channel and it shows he’s quite ignorant of them by using Dorman parts. CV axles, knuckles, ball joints, censors, plugs, coils, and sensors, should all be Toyota, denso, or aisen & if they don’t make them, get a rebuilt one. Far superior than any Dorman crap. He should binge some TCCN videos and learn himself some Yota -knowledge!

[@brassmule]

@@KendrasEdge757 While I agree that some Toyota OE parts are definitely necessary, a knuckle ain't rocket surgery. It just needs to be built to spec, which the Dorman parts clearly are. Would I replace any electronics on a Toyota with an aftermarket part? No. Do I have an issue using a $140 Dorman part vs a $400 OE Toyota part? I do not, not at all, especially a simple knuckle on a 20 year old vehicle. Mevotech TTX parts have been great to me on other vehicles and I use them with confidence. I would have selected the SKF front bearing assembly vs Moog but I am sure it'll be fine. I do agree, however, that using OE axles or rebuilding your OE axles or getting junkyard OE parts is typically better than using aftermarket CV axles.

[@DaddyBusAdventures]

When you realized that the CV still needed to go back into the knuckle, the best place to open that assembly up to make room would be the lower two bolts (the ones that prompted you to get the new assembly in the first place). Take those two off and the whole assembly hinges off the upper ball joint. Also gives you more room with the CV since the hinge point is further away from where you need to thread in the CV into the bearing hub.

[@Pilostudio]

I was thinking that there had to be a way to do it because I did it on my lexus RX350 which has a similar setup. Now, I want to know how he could put the dust shield back without removing the bearing. 🤣🤣

[@DaddyBusAdventures]

@@Pilostudio LOL, yes that would be quite a trick. Then again, we have all done it... Be part way through reassembly only to find a part on the side we forgot part way through.

[@Pilostudio]

@@DaddyBusAdventures anyone who wrenches and says is never happened to them is lying. When I did my axle I torqued my axle nut and punched the indent that prevents it from backing out. Then realized I had forgotten something and ended up messing the threads backing that nut out 🥲

[@joseysantana]

This is the way. I’ve replaced both CVs using this simpler method

[@brassmule]

14:20 - I believe the correct procedure is just to leave the castle nut mostly on the threads - give yourself a 1/2 or so to allow the balljoint to come out of tension but not so much that it can explode. Thanks for leaving your mistakes in the video - we've all done them.

[@dalandser562]

Yes. Exactly.

[@dalandser562]

Exactly.

[@matthewpeterson3329]

The best of us make mistakes. In fact, it's usually something pedestrian because we are focused on the more important or technical aspects of a series of tasks. This one was easy to remedy. Also, thread files are a godsend when you need to tune up a boogered bolt and you can't afford to wait for the UPS driver. Great job, Jimmy!

[@pilotoheli]

We definitely have those days. I'm an aircraft mechanic, and just yesterday, we had to replace a component inside the cowling of an engine that was throwing a fault on the aircraft computer. Well, it was a 15-hour shift, and at the end of that, the fault persists. We've stripped two Torx bits after having to torque 18 bolts to 75 in-lb twice trying to get that thing to work. The defect just wasn't there. Off to the harness we went...

[@steveragsdale2358]

Thanks for sharing your journey on this project. Just a little advice, when separating the knuckle from the ball joint, don't remove the nut all the way to catch the knuckle, the jack under the control arm is a good idea, but not up tight against it.

[@billygooze7886]

Love these vids. I ran into the same kind of situation where I wanted to just change pads and rotors on my Land Cruiser but ended up touching up the bearings, front suspension, and running into broken bolts here and there. A lot of random small issues and mistakes that ended up being great lessons. What I thought was a Sunday project ended up taking me over a month 😂.

[@Bbtaco-w9j]

When using a crows foot you need to turn it 90 degrees to keep the length of the wrench the same. If you put it straight out it will make the torque setting inaccurate

[@j3rocketeer]

This is true. Thanks for sharing that with everyone. Not many people know about this

[@CSTLLNS]

Yes sir otherwise you need to adjust for length.

[@daves7775]

Torque Wrench Length (from Center of socket fastener point) - to the correct HUMAN HAND position = N distance. L = the Center to CENTER length of the Crows foot or whatever tool torque adapter accessory. N / (N + L) = X% torque. Example: Torque wrench has 16" length with correct HAND position. Using Crows foot or Torque Adapter - of 3" from Center to Center length. So with the Crows foot - we would have a 19" Center to correct Hand Position Length. Torque should be 74 foot lbs (our made up example) 16 / (16 +3) or 16 / 19 = 0.8421 (X%) X=74 in this example. 74 x 0.8421 = 62.32 foot lbs. Set the Torque Wrench NOT to 74 - but to 62.32 or 62 or 62.5 or 63 foot lbs... and use the Torque wrench with the Crows Foot - and you will have the correct 74 foot lbs.

[@michaelmartinez9602]

@@daves7775wow so it would be less actually

[@michaelmartinez9602]

At least it’s not loose then

[@hankgs]

DUDE- Your mechanic skills mirror mine! Thanks for actually SHOWING the "f" up's on camera...! So glad you picked up a Toyota, just bought a '90 ota Pickup 4x and will be doing the same work. Thanks for the great content~

[@texZR2]

This video brings back memories on when I had to do the same work on my S10 ZR2.. Don't miss that at all.

[@donsternberg3600]

Jimmy, thank you for being transparent and vulnerable sharing your missteps and slipups. I don't feel as dumb with my mistakes.

[@jimdevalder4868]

Don't bet on it, knuckles 😮

[@EdMarbach]

Great job with this series on the CV and suspension. Really like your delivery and editing.

[@trollindirty8983]

I know this may get lost in to your feed. But I am the owner of a 2008 Toyota Tacoma. I’m ready to do all my ball joints. It may be helpful on future videos if you were to list the size of socket needed during each stage of the process. So that yours like myself could assemble all the tools necessary ahead of the job. Other than that great friggin video. You make it look possible for amateur mechanic like me to attempt this job.

[@MrBowNaxe]

Good stuff Jimmy. I can relate to this job. Learning as you go is not easy but, it makes the finished job that much more rewarding. Don't worry about all the troll experts. Guarantee they didn't start out perfect.

[@michaeldiaz2439]

A good way to keep your CV axle seals flexible. Is spray on some AT205 resealer. Scotty kilmer showed me that trick years ago. And all my boot look amazing. He has a video on all the things he uses on, and it works!

[@quademasters249]

I use anti-seize. The bolts stretch. That's what keeps them tight. If they're torqued properly, they don't need thread locker. Every bolt on the dirt side of my vehicles gets anti-seize to prevent them from rusting into place. Unbolting the LCA from the frame is another way to get enough room to install the axle. I'll do that before I break the balljoints loose again.

[@daves7775]

Talking with the manufacturer - Anti-Seize typically requires about a 20% reduction in torque value - to achieve the correct torque value. Anti-Seize DOES (no maybe about it) - mess up torque value; and cause the fastener to be major over torqued - unless properly compensated for. Various formulations require different torque reduction values to be set on the torque wrench.

[@NWGarage]

You can’t torque properly when there’s anti seize on the threads !!😂

[@daves7775]

@@NWGarage Incorrect. I've talked with several anti seize manufacturers - and they all have various torque reduction (to achieve correct torque) per whatever product you are using. In general - a 20% reduction on anti seize products will get you quite close. If you want exact - you call the manufacturer (as we did); talk with their technical dept; and they will advise you on the % reduction for proper torque while using a specific product. I wish they would just print this info on the product package along with the instructions.

[@NWGarage]

@@daves7775 you’re doing so much extra work, I absolutely hate working on cars later from people like you, such a disgusting mess , clean the threads with a small hand held wire brush and just put the car together like normal Cars don’t come with anti sieze from factory for a reason - it’s not what’s supposed to be there ! I feel sorry for anyone that has to work on a car after you

[@NWGarage]

@@daves7775 the fact you have to say “ various “ and “ get quite close “ should be your eye opener right there

[@ti8966]

Power to you for posting this. As diyer i make mistakes too but what a great feeling after im done fixing my mistakes

[@crash121973]

This exactly how u learn. Trial and error. Great video. Well Dunn.😊👍🏾

[@chrispauldupre]

Good video. We’ve all been there working on suspensions before ……😂! It’s all a learning experience!

[@roger38888]

The CV shaft 😂. Axel happens. Love the editing. Is entertaining see the mistakes in someone else before I do my suspension. Thanks

[@byronharano2391]

Excellent video. We all made the same mistakes at some point as mechanics. I am happy for your honesty. Please set your crows foot 90° to your torque wrench axis so the torque value will not increase or decrease. Handy tip.

[@jricardolobo]

I just got a couple of observations. First the ideal source of torque numbers (or any other technical info) should be the Service Manual. Second remember that when greases (anti seize) or thread lockers are applied to a bolt the torque should be adjusted according to the friction modified, normally that means reducing the torque about 15% to 30%, or if we liked to adjust by factor it should be x0.85 to x0.70. Some anti seize or thread lockers even come with the adjustment factor. Keep the good work.

[@metotem9236]

My only advice to you as a 25 years mechanic of Toyota 4Runner/Land Cruisers:For yours and all others' safety you share the road with, when comes to parts replacement please use only Toyota OEM parts to anything related to the safety of your vehicle.

[@kevinmcpherson4067]

Thanks for showing all the good and bad. I really enjoy your videos!

[@MarzNet256]

It's generally a good idea to assemble everything loose until everything is back together. Also, if you gently tap on drain plugs with a hammer before using the inside-hex (allen) it helps to break them free.

[@Zeek800]

Yup, a few light taps with a regular hammer ( not a 1 lb sledge hammer) and make sure that hex / Allen is all the way into the drain plug ( give that a couple taps with the hammer as well.

[@snowysnobdds7842]

Yes Yes yes. I always leave things loose until every thing has been seated and aligned. Always hand start bolts, and never us an impact tightening bolts. After awhile you can get a feel for torque, that sweet spot where a bolt gives a little pop when you have to loosen it. I've made all the mistakes like this guy, and we all learn from messing up. I always give praise for guys that try and eventually accomplish. We need more of that in men these days.

[@FIVEVEEZEE]

The Dorman is thicker for two possible reasons. 1. Thicker metal was specified in design to make up for inferior metal being used compared to OEM. Or 2. Their quality control sucks and they have lots of casting variance.

[@johnnyjohn8073]

Oh, you gotta love that dust cover. I have a 1991 3.SLOW 4x4 stick shift 4Runner. I gotta do the cv axle boot replacement. But will replace the upper & lower ball joints with Toyota brand. Regarding the dust cover shield, I recently made that mistake last month on my 2000 Honda CR-V. I had replaced the wheel hub & left the dust cover shield in my 4runner. I had just gotten 2 very nice dust cover shields from a junkyard cr-v. I degreased them, & used epoxy spray paint. Look all nice, brand new. Unfortunately I also forgot to install the dust cover. So I had to reuse the old one, which was cut 2 or 3 inches between the 2 caliper bolt area. Apparently someone in the past had chiseled cut that part off to remove it in the past. I made sure that mistake wasn't done on the second steering knuckle spindle when I replaced the wheel hub. But yeah, the CR-V also ended up being a whole suspension replacement project from a simple rack & pinion and ball joint replacement. I bought the CR-V 3 months ago & I thought that the pull to the right while driving, was a simple rack & pinion & ball joint problem. Oh, and rack & pinion jobs are never simple jobs. Turns out, the CR-V was hit on the front passenger side tire. As I was removing the lower control arm, I noticed the front main bolt just kept on spinning, it was stripped & sure enough, it was also stripped on the inside of the CR-V subframe assembly where it's bolted on to. The subframe assembly was also tweaked. Good thing I found someone parting out a CR-V & I bought the subframe for only $120. Beats doing all the work at the junkyard on 95 degree F here in Southern California for 4 hours, or the whole day under the beating sun under all that overheated metal. The subframe is installed but I had a bit of a hard time bolting it on. Apparently, the main frame is slightly off by maybe 1mm. It's enough to tighten up the 3 holding bolts on each side, the left & right side but I really had to use force with my makita battery operated 1/2" impact gun. I've yet to install the knuckle spindles & lower control arms.

[@gatolibero8329]

Thickness doesn't matter. What matters is the metal quality. You can have a "thicker" part, built with low quality metal. Or a "thinner" part built with high-quality metal. Also, where the part is thin or thick matters.

[@yayinternets]

Thanks for sharing an honest video like this. I would be making all of these missteps as well as I'm not afraid to dig in and do this sort of work, but it's something that only happens every few years at the most. The first side is always the hardest. 🙂

[@NWGarage]

Fun video , loved the additional diff fluid swap to finish up the job

[@TinkerersAdventure]

Haha I had one of those days too. So real!

[@1RoadGarage]

Yep. Sometimes man.

[@danielmorrison7579]

Hilarious! Long before the PC revolution, we would say, "Hire the Handicap, they're fun to watch".

[@raulvallejo11]

All I can say is I love watching your videos I learn a lot thank you so much

[@logantcooper6]

If OEM parts weren't 2 to 3 times more expensive nowadays then yea id buy more OEM too.

[@Temppy1]

yo your tall as hell making that 4runner look smol

[@gerdberg4188]

6:03 I was watching you thinking oooo you are going to take that back apart !!

[@Dav-S5658]

I left out the dust shield when I did mine too. You get so focused on the big things that little things slip. I was so frustrated because by now it was 10pm, and I tried to convince myself it wasn't needed,...but I installed it. Such a rookie mistake. As for Toyota parts, I've been wrenching for over 50 years, and the OEM Toyota parts consistently outlast and out perform the others. I'm replacing a set of MOOG tie rod ends now with only about 50 K on them. The OEM ones lasted 150K. I only put the MOOG in because I could not get the OEM parts. It was during the pandemic. You can measure thickness but what about metallurgy and heat treatment? I've had terrible luck with after market ball joints, CV axles, etc. I will not use anything but OEM Toyota parts now, and I stock extras since the pandemic, so I am never again forced to use junk parts. I also use all the OEM consumables, like oil filters, air filters, spark plugs, gaskets and seals. In the end I'm money (and grief) ahead. I know several independent and dealer mechanics who tell me the same things.

[@RKkayak45]

I’ve done that myself a few times 🤣🤦🏻. I feel your pain

[@wilbertb1929]

How long did you work on taking those hub bolts off with the axle nut still on?

[@Kirmo13]

best channel

[@FreeKanal]

Thanks for sharing Your mistakes. It is good to see what can go wrong when someone prepares to do that job. Just be careful and don't let mistakes harm you, the rest of the mistakes are fine :)

[@juanzayas7719]

You really made my day. My mind travel off US presidential elections during your video.

[@CBD-LIFE]

Wtf. A whole channel dedicated to convincing people to not fix their own toyota You make Ford owners very proud!

[@floydmitchell3344]

I gave a like because it made me lol, if you could heard me yelling through the comms unit. I wish I could say I've never made that mistake.

[@RobertSmith-di5ll]

really practical for any job

[@ricoreyes6578]

Its happened to all that have wrenched enough.. nice vid

[@thundergauge]

I have done that, I have forgotten to slide the CV Axel through the bearing before attaching the knuckle to the ball joints

[@thomasjones613]

Your lower ball joint should be seated right up against the snap ring. I can see a space there. You should also put a layer of grease on the wheel hub flange before you put the tire back on so it will be easier to remove the tire.

[@wallace3953]

You did yeomans Work. You ought to USE your CAMERA on your phone, and Take Snaps as you dis-assemble. and, you should be very proud, doing a top-notch perfect, clean job......a lot of shps just gun in parts, overtighten the fasteners, and deliver a crappy job. YOU did Top-notch work. Bravo! (and, please be careful of springs, in the future...they can kill....).

[@roughneck2204]

I’m glad gm left a hole in the hub to run a socket through

[@BADD400]

Great video Jimmy. I just subscribed to your channel

[@ajsaveliev1196]

Love watching the struggle, learning for my future struggle

[@woody_2245]

so i own a 2010 rav4 n it had 3 recalls regarding the rear suspension issues..toyotas fix was to use epoxy n plastic so that owners can no longer get a rear end alignment..alot of toyota dealers advised that they could not and/or would not put after market parts on the vehicle n advised that i would just have to purchase new tires yearly n deal with the pulling sensation..a local garage ended up replacing the parts n tires at a cost of $1900 with after market part..

[@kirm8137]

Haha, you do some really...dumb stuff, but you're entertaining and I love your videos. Breaking that top ball joint could have been injurious but glad it didn't whack you. With all the work you've done on that vehicle I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

[@GrandPrix46]

Your first mistake was using the torque wrench to line up the castle nut with the hole for the cotter pin. Use a breaker bar, gonna mess your torque wrench up doing that.

[@123-olmngresx]

Sure dude get to your taco stand.

[@stevenrobinson2381]

@@123-olmngresx he is 100 % CORRECT.

[@123-olmngresx]

@@stevenrobinson2381 I'll out wrench you all day every day. I build transmissions, engines you name it. Tightening up a castle nut to line up a cotter pin does not hurt it. Get a grip !!

[@stevenrobinson2381]

@@123-olmngresx 30+ years in Aviation bucko-think I know a thing or 5 about castle nuts torque wrenches etc, etc etc. Bet you also believe if you drop the torque wrench it's still good huh. I ain't gonna get into the Yellow Olympics with you.

[@123-olmngresx]

@stevenrobinson2381 I don't care son. 35 years as a mechanic on off-road vehicles and muscle cars. I don't drop my tools like you I take care of them. You have a job and a boss im self employed. I buy my own tools.

[@Tablesaw818]

What is with all these fake accounts commenting? Great video Jimmy!

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

You should never every Use your torque wrench past the click to push a nut passed the cotter pin hole you can destroy the Calibration on the torque wrench doing that Jimmy 2:45 @1Road

[@liesejunh]

I think a thread chaser kit would’ve fixed all of your thread issues. I had the same problems replacing a control arm and a thread chaser worked magic! Don’t get a tap and dye kit, but an actual chaser kit would’ve corrected the knuckle and bolts.

[@bodmitri]

Great video!

[@brassmule]

12:52 - 59 ft-lbs is what the Toyota factory service manual says for the 4 bolts on the front axle bearing assembly. 80Nm, 816 kgf-cm, 59 ft-lbf. The axle nut is listed as 235 Nm, 2,396 kgf-cm, or 172 ft-lbf, as you said.

[@davetaf1323]

Hey, can that A arm an knuckle replace the J95 prado lower A arm an ball joint failure design

[@gerdberg4188]

15:40 there is an Allen head in the end of the sway bar stud so that you can tighten the bolt while holding the stud !!……………

[@toycoma98]

Have you ever heard of assembly is reverse of removal?

[@kirkm4988]

Love the mistakes/ learning. Great job on your video work. Thanks for the video

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Have to remove cv axle nut also not just the hub Bolts to get the dust shield back on Jimmy 😂 16:40 @1Road

[@daves7775]

Quick Comment: At 1:12 - a Heli-Coil would have fixed it. Extremely reliably. All testing I have ever seen - show that Heli-Coil repaired threads are STRONGER than the original. I repaired a Steering Knuckle stripped out threads using Heli-Coil; and zero problems. They are a PERMANENT, STRONG repair.

[@tiorange1235]

When u gonna do the timing belt?

[@gerdberg4188]

The aftermarket springs for my sienna 09 were beefier than the original equipment .

[@ericlapke4872]

Never use aftermarket on a gem vehicle like that only oem always plz u will thank me later

[@billygooze7886]

When do you know when and when not to use thread locker? I’m a beginner DIY mechanic and just follow Toyota FSM and they don’t usually mention anything on it

[@5G4R]

The oem knuckles are forged and those dormans are cast and therefore weaker. Probably why they made them a bit thicker. For a daily hwy runner it shouldn't be an issue

[@magnusjonasson7703]

You are not alone to make mistakes 😊

[@dookiesaur7915]

usually i keep the castle nut on the spindle loose before hammering it the uca free.

[@markw365]

Do some research on "torque adapter" for doing stuff like you did with the crows foot. If you have it inline with the wrench, you have to do some math to figure out what it is applying as you have a longer length handle. To not deal with mathing the solution, put the crows foot or torque adapter at 90 degrees to the handle to keep the length of the wrench the same.

[@bobbysuazjFhvcfgh]

You can look into getting flare nut crowfoot wrenches. U can safely put a lot of torque on those without fear of stripping the head.

All manuals tell you "installation is in the reverse order of removal". Surely after performing this replacement you'll need to have an alignment done?

[@TomwithaDream]

Nice video. No, actually excellent video. Showing all the steps with just perfectly excellent imagery. And the mistakes. One tip, when torquing with a crows foot position the foot at 90deg to the wrench. The applied torque at a nut offset from the wrench pivot is NOT the same as applied at the wrench pivot. The math involved is trig but can be simplified if we can make one of the trig functions (sine, cosine, tangent, and angles) equal 1 so your wrench torque x 1 = wrench torque. Positioning the crows foot at 90deg from the wrench does this. It has been many decades since I studied trig in school and a decade less since I learned the ins ands outs of how the triangle formed by the three points (hand, wrench pivot, nut pivot) and the levers (wrench length, crows foot and hypotenuse of those) of a bolt tightening scenario affect the torque, but if you attempt to get 90deg (or as close as practical) the differences in torque will be minimized.

[@danhambrick6331]

Good one Jimbo...👍👍👊

[@BluuJourney]

Can stripped ball joint Knuckles be retapped aka rethreaded?

[@yayinternets]

Yeah, I would think so. On a part like this where you don't want to enlarge the threads or use a nutsert, a the remedy would probably be welding inside of the hole to add some material back and then rethreading it. But that's like a DIY type fix. A shop is going to just replace the knuckle.

[@gerdberg4188]

12:25 there are standard torque specs for bolt sizes , look it up

[@RobertLupo]

nice job

[@amdstrollo3074]

I personally would have gone national, ntn, bca or skf for the bearing.

[@fortis619]

All China 💩, I just bought some skf bearings for my tundra all Chinese , at this point it’s all the same unless you go to the dealer

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Hub Bolts are 102 Foot pounds toyota Spec Jimmy 13:10 @1Road

[@ryanhall3689]

Two things I would have done differently. 1. by a good knuckle OEM from a scrap yard 2. When removing the upper ball joint leave the castle nut on a few threads then if it releases it won't go flying

[@cwmoser]

Is that a Harbor Freight Torque Wrench? Hell, I use them too 🙂

[@jamesklinckman2363]

You tighten castaled nut to torque and if it does line up back off to put cotter pin. Don’t use 3rd vendor parts unless you just practicing and going to do it all over again.

[@AlphaBravo-hy5lb]

you should get a subscription to ALLDATA, it'll give you all the proper specs

[@gerdberg4188]

The axle thru the hub should have been done as one of the first things While you had access😊

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

As many mistakes made in this video It must of Been Rocket Science For Jimmy 21:30 @1Road

[@bobbysuazjFhvcfgh]

A lot of friendly fire in this fix. It happens though 😂😂

[@raynyhus2026]

I fi d it best to do both sides at the same time. If once is failing or failed, the othe isn't far behind it.

[@brenthann2623]

my buddy tells me "you do it nice cause you do it twice". i think that applies to you also.

[@zoulques]

Been there man!

[@smokinwithskruggs]

Next time go to your local tool warehouse and buy yourself some thread chasers. You could have saved alot of time and money. Nice video though for the DIYer.

[@jollytime0811]

Crow's foot needs to be 90 degrees on the torque wrench. Your torque values are likely off.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Wasn't over Torqued it was Cross threaded Good old Saying for Diyers Cross threads better then no Threads Jimmy 8:03 @1Road

[@R4MON]

The biggest mistake of all was removing the hub to install the dust shield and then cut to the wheel being installed. My heart is still hurting from not having the closure of seeing the dust shield finally installed. You monster! 🤣

[@khh6243]

Leaky XREAS shock deletes next?