1st Gen Toyota 4Runner 22RE Engine Build PART 3 - Oil Pump & Block Sensors / Plugs

0:00 Intro
0:09 Plugs in the Block
1:56 Oil Pressure Sensor
2:55 Knock Sensor
3:10 Coolant Drain
3:28 LCE EGR Block off Plates
4:34 Oil Pump
6:56 Outro
7:16 SUBSCRIBE
Part 3 Rebuilding the 22RE 4Runner Engine, we install the Oil Pump, the remaining plugs on the block, Oil pressure sensor, Knock Sensor, Coolant drain, and the LCE EGR Block off plates. 22RE Rebuild #22RE #4Runner #Toyota

[@Ivan-Duran]

A lot of great information

[@linneabunch8997]

This is great! Very helpfull in understanding a lot of what I didn't know. This is my first engine build and i have a question on some of the screws. My Haynes manual for my pickup mentions different torque values on some of the screws for the timing cover ( at higher torque ) for some of the larger screws, just curious on how important following every little step like this and if its crucial or if I'm just tripping into a rabbit hole being how some bolts are definitely not OEM. Please let me know what you think

[@preacher031163]

Gotta say this is supposed to b about oil pump...STAY FOCUSED

[@glenngamboa9224]

Exactly what I did from LCE 👍👍

[@emacdaqt350]

Thanks bro

[@The13thSword]

@1:56 Oil Pressure Sender - *Never* use Teflon tape on the sender threads. Why? Because you pretty much hit it on the head with your explanation You said there is only one wire on the sender (same goes for the sender for the "Oil Light" type). The sender electrically grounds through the block to make the Negative connection to the battery. The block is connected to the battery via a ground strap or cable from battery negative to the passenger side motor mount (usually). So putting PTFE Teflon tape on those threads could interfere with the sender functioning correctly (or maybe not work at all), as PTFE-Teflon is a poor electrical conductor, and acts like an insulator instead. Same conditions & situation goes for the Coolant Temp Sender. It grounds through the cylinder head via the thermostat housing. Likely the same on the Knock Sensor. The only thing I might ever consider putting on sender threads is copper or silver grade anti-seize compound, as those as designed to be electrically conductive. @4:34 Oil Pump O-Ring - Tip for installation. If you lightly coat the O-Ring with some grease, it will stick in the groove for you & not fall loose on you when you're trying to put the Oil Pump on. Makes things a lot easier. Oil Pump Bolt Torque Spec 108 inch pounds OR 9 foot pounds. Not all of us have an inch pound torque wrench or the money to buy one. 😁 You can always find the foot pound spec for anything specified in inch pounds by dividing the number by 12 (12 inches in a foot, so 108 inch pounds divided by 12 = 9 foot pounds). You're putting in solid work sir, good job. 👍

[@YaseenDIY]

Great video! Will come in handy when I eventually undertake an engine rebuild for my 22RE lol. Keep up the content man, its seriously great how awesome the 1st gen community is at keeping them alive and providing information to do so.

[@Andrew-tp2ye]

Thanks! I appreciate it. Learning a ton doing it, hope it turns out good!

[@YaseenDIY]

@@Andrew-tp2ye I'm sure it will. I'm in the same boat too. Lots of learning.

[@raphaeluzan8776]

This guy knows car

[@9595david]

It’s been 4 months man where’s that install video?!😭 Everyone building them but nobody showing them running🤦🏽‍♂️

[@Andrew-tp2ye]

Was taking way to much time filming and building at the same time. I just got impatient and finished it all with out the camera. It runs great, just has a little exhaust leak. Need to re register it and then I'll make a video of it running and doing some fun stuff out in the desert :)