1Zpresso X-Pro Quick Disassemble and Calibration Guide

[@montyburns1961]

Much clearer and more helpful than the 1Zpresso online manual. Thank you for posting.

[@mightymightyironhead]

You are very welcome and thank you also for the positive feedback.

[@jonathangrayson2107]

Nice and simple, no overdone production here. Thanks for the simplicity.

[@mightymightyironhead]

Thank you Jonathan.

[@paulcleary8829]

Thank you for making this video. The X-PRO manual from 1Zpresso was quite confusing about where to set the dot on the internal knob when re-assembling the grinder (They used the word "angle" when they should have used the words "any vertex of the hexagonal part of the shaft"). Your video was very clear and exact about positioning the dot.

[@mightymightyironhead]

Hi Paul, thanks for the positive feedback. 1Zpresso are legendary for their confusing manuals and information. The thumb nut on the X-Pro has a couple of things that can confuse users, to get the thumb nut off you need to open the burrs completely or the thumb nut wont come off. Then as you also point out, the angle of the thumb nut to take it off and fix it in place is not explained very well. The X-Pro is an excellent grinder and i am really happy that 1Zpresso addressed the calibration issue from the JX-Pro to a much easier system for the X-Pro.

[@womball3970]

Will you do one for the x ultra?

[@elanatomist]

Gracias! Perfect. Simple and to the point.

[@AJM547]

Great demonstration. It seems very simple and straight forward to do. Two quick questions for you. 1) Is the construction all metal, or are there some plastic parts? 2) Is there some indicator to tell how many rotation you are on or do you have to count and remember?

[@mightymightyironhead]

Hi Allan. Its actually very easy to dismantle then reassemble and the calibration is very fast. Every part of the grinder is metal and very well made, apart from the wooden handle and the plastic disc on the end of the grind handle, but these are also good quality parts. There is no other indication of how many rotations you have opened the adjustment dial, unlike with the J-Max and its pyramid below the adjustment dial. But this is kind of the same for the other grinders, where you just have the numbers on the adjustment dial to go by. So its no more difficult to remember what grind size setting you have the grinder set to than the other grinders. Obviously when you adjust the settings for the type of brew you are going to grind for, you dont need to really worry about the settings unless you want to grind for a different brew type that needs a different grind setting, then its just a case of remembering what brew type (or setting) you last used. Or just close the burrs completely and then readjust for the brew settings that you want, it takes seconds to do that.

[@AJM547]

@@mightymightyironhead Thanks!

[@technosurfer92]

Thank you so much for making this guide video. I would like to ask for more clarification on the definition of resistance that's suitable for the zero point. When I set my X-Pro dial to the middle point between 0 and 1, I feel something like a one-sided resistance where the turn is effortless for half of the handle spin, but quite resistive for the other half of the spin (can feel a faint grind during the turn). At this setting, when I turn the grinder to its side, the handle meets some resistance on its free fall, but eventually completes the turn on its own. Would that be considered too tight for the zero point? If so, do I keep loosening until there is well and truly zero resistance on the handle?

[@mightymightyironhead]

You are very welcome, really happy the video helped you. When you calibrate your grinder and you want to get the zero point (burrs fully closed) turn the adjustment dial until you feel enough resistance that you feel that if you tighten anymore it will be too tight. This can be a little difficult to describe, but it feels a little like when you tighten a jar lid, or a bottle top and you know that if you tighten it anymore it will be too tight and you will have problems getting back off. The adjustment dial should still be able to move slightly but be stiff. You know that the burrs are fully closed when you put the handle on and turn the grinder on its side, the grind handle should not move at all and should stay in place. At that point, there is some people who argue that you should not start with your burrs fully closed like that and that when you reach zero point, that you should then open the burrs a tiny bit. There is nothing wrong with doing that, the microns size between each click is so small that starting with the burrs open slightly will not make any different to your grind sizes, again you can test this with the grind handle, if you open the adjustment dial slightly until the handle falls when you turn the grinder on its side. The way that i see it is that when you are closing the burrs to get to zero point, as long as you don't force the adjustment dial too much and make the burrs tighter than you have too, like i described above. So you wont damage the burrs because you will never be grinding anything at that grind level anyway (even the Turkish grind range starts at 20 clicks) and you will always be opening the burrs anyway to get to your preferred grind size. So its really op to you what you choose, if you feel better getting to zero point and then slightly opening the burrs again (until the handle drops) that's fine. If you wait for the the adjustment dial to have that resistance, but still have a slight play if you continue to turn (until the handle does not move) that's fine also, i promise that either way you wont damage the burrs.

[@AJM547]

Thanks again for this excellent video. I just got my X-Pro a few days ago and have been loving it. Following your easy and detailed explanations, I was able to disassemble, clean, and reassemble the grinder with no problems. Now, I would like to hear your opinion on an observation someone made about finding the zero point. This person suggested NOT closing the burrs completely to avoid damaging them. He suggested tightening the burrs just until the grind handle either does not move, or seems to have a slight resistance, and calling that the zero point. Do you believe that he has a valid concern about over tightening the burrs to find the zero?

[@mightymightyironhead]

Hi Allan, you are very welcome, really happy that it helped. Regarding the Zero point. I have read quite a lot of posts and blogs from people who talk about this and it kind of makes sense and it kind of does not make sense also. Technically the Zero point is when the burrs are fully closed and at their closest point. This is typically used as a starting guide only and i am not convinced the burrs are actually physically touching at this point. Even if they were touching at the closest point of the burrs, you are never going to grind any beans at this setting, because its way too fine for any brew type, even the finest Turkish grind size needs you to open the burrs a good few numbers. So you are never going to cause any damage to the burrs by trying to grind at the zero point. However with that said. I do agree that you should be careful when you calibrate to the zero point. When i calibrate, i dont tighten the adjustment dial all the way until its very tight, i do it until i feel some resistance and then i leave it, thats good enough for me. Its kind of when you are tightening a lid on a jar, or a bottle top, you know what feels right and you know that if you tighten it any more, you will have problems untightening. Another thing that i do, is calibrate to zero point (until i feel the resistance) place the grinding handle on the body of the grinder and then turn the grinder on its side, if the grinding handle stays in place and does not drop, the burrs are fully closed. If the burrs are fully closed and at the zero point and the handle does not move when i turn the grinder on its side, i then open the adjustment dial one or two clicks until the grinding handle does move when i turn the grinder on its side. This is a good start if you are concerned with the burrs touching and this is what i always do.

[@nikolanikolic9817]

Thanks for your detailed and helpful video. I came across one issue. I have unwinded the adjustment dial too much, and now I can't turn it back. Needles from the adjustment dial just slip over during spinning. Does anyone know how to fix this?

[@mightymightyironhead]

Hi good morning. To be honest i have not heard of this happening with the X-Pro grinder. Sorry just to be clear with you, you have turned the adjustment dial too far to open your burrs (turning clockwise) and the three small black pins under the adjustment dial have been bent? If this is what has happened, you need to try and bend the pins back so that they are straight again. I am very surprised that you have bent these pins, because they are quite solid and are designed to not bend, so you need to be very careful because because you can break them. I personally would use some Long nose pliers like in this link: www.beta-tools.com/en/products/pliers-and-nippers/long-nose-pliers/long-flat-knurled-nose-pliers-slip-proof-double-layer-pvc-coated-handles.html and i would very gently try and straighten the pins again, by using the pliers to grip all of the pin from above and gently moving the pin until it was straight. If this is something that you do not feel confident to do, i would recommend that you contact either the dealer that you purchased the grinder from or 1Zpresso directly and ask them to get you a replacement part for your grinder. I dont have a price list for the X-Pro parts, but the adjustment dial for this grinder should be around $15 - 20US for a replacement part. Anyway i am really sorry that i can not help you more and very good luck.

[@nikolanikolic9817]

@@mightymightyironhead Thank you so much! Your suggestion solved the issue ! I have managed to tighten three pins with pilers, and dial back to the finer granulation. although I initially thought the gear had stuck.. Thank you!

[@mightymightyironhead]

Hi good morning, sorry for the late reply, KZbin really does not indicate when i have a message sometimes. Anyway really happy that you managed to fix your issue there.

[@therealXoranUs]

Not all heros wear capes

[@vivalavega01]

Interesting yours looks like the burrs stock out when at 0 but mine look flush. Is mine defective?

[@mightymightyironhead]

Hi, sorry can you explain a little more what you are referring to? Do you mean the cap on the bottom of the burrs (when you take the catch cup off and look up into the bottom of the grinder, you can see a disc with a hex fitting) Or do you mean at the top of the grinder where the thumb nut and the adjustment dial is located? There is a disc on the base of the burrs with the Hex fitting. This is so that at some point it is able to take the burrs out and replace them. This disc does not fit flush with the inside of the body and protrudes about 3 - 4mm. this is normal.

[@СтасГрищук-ц7б]

Hi, i have a question, where's zero position... I herd 0 position when you cant move your handle at all, then after 1-3 click you can hardly turn the handle and on position 1 handle spend without any efforts. Is it correct? Thanks in advance.

[@mightymightyironhead]

Zero position is actually meant to be done when you calibrate your grinder, so you will also need to get the zero number on the dial in the correct starting position (if you are using the J-Max its the top of the top square on the pyramid. If its the K series grinders, its the red dot) and this will usually mean that you will have to adjust the thumb nut to get the zero number around and into position. Anyway there are two ways to choose from, i personally use the first way to zero my grinder when i calibrate the grinder 1) Turn the adjustment dial all the way to close the burrs, turn until you feel some resistance, when you feel some resistance slow down and keep turning until the adjustment dial is "finger tight". This is similar to when you are screwing the top onto a bottle, you know by feeling when its tight enough and when its too tight that you wont get it back off. When you feel that the adjustment dial is tight enough, you should still have a little more movement to turn the dial a few more clicks. At that point you can place the grind handle onto the grinder and turn the grinder on its side, if the handle falls, the burrs are still open, so you can (if you want to) tighten the dial another click or two until the handle does not fall. Be be careful to never over tighten the adjustment dial, you should always still have a little movement to tighten and never try to turn the grind handle when the burrs are fully closed, because you will jam the burrs and its really hard to fix that. 2) The second way is pretty much the same as the first way. You turn the adjustment dial until the burrs are fully closed and the dial feels "finger tight" like the first way. Then you turn the adjustment dial back again to open the burrs again another couple of clicks, or until the handle does fall when you turn the grinder on its side. Some people prefer this method, because they say that the burrs are not touching like in the first method, but the burrs are never touching and you wont have any issues unless you over tighten the adjustment dial and lock up the grinder, but even that is the thumb nut and burr shaft locking up. Also nobody is ever going to try and grind anything when the adjustment dial is at the closed position and the burrs are at the finest setting, that's a lot finer than even Turkish, so from that position you will only ever open the burrs to get to your grind size for your brew type, so no danger of the burrs touching.

[@СтасГрищук-ц7б]

@@mightymightyironhead Good evening! I have the X-Pro S model. Thanks for such a detailed explanation. Appreciate it!

[@mightymightyironhead]

@@СтасГрищук-ц7б you are very welcome, happy to help.

[@Saul-zp6hh]

What setting do you use/ recommend for a v60 with the xpro?

[@mightymightyironhead]

Hi Saul. The recommended grind range for Pour is between 120 clicks (2 full rotations) and 160 clicks (2 full rotations and continue to the number 4) so you have quite a big grind range for Pour over with the X-Pro. It really depends on a few things, in particular the shape of your V60, your beans (Natural, washed and semi washed might all need a slight adjustment in grind size) and also what roast level the beans are (light or medium). So i am sorry that i cannot give you a perfect number. i would start in the middle and adjust accordingly (maybe 140 clicks).

[@Saul-zp6hh]

Thank you

[@mightymightyironhead]

@@Saul-zp6hh you are very welcome, thank you also for the sub Saul.

[@isqueirosbic]

Commenting this in case I might get an answer. I cannot for the life of me remove what the manual calls the "knurled thumb nut" from the inner burr. I've tried it with the two and half turns (like the manual points out) and also with it fully turned. I push the burr from the bottom and the knurled thumb nut doesn't move, it seems like it's stuck with the hexagonal piece. I tried forcing the hexagonal piece out and the thumb nut in, but didn't get any result. I don't know what to do anymore. Every video I see makes this look so easy (and I even did it on accident the first day I got it) but nothing happens. I don't know what's wrong.

[@mightymightyironhead]

When i first got the X-Pro it was not released yet and there was no information about it at all. I was completely stuck when it came to taking the thumb nut off, it took me a little while to figure out that you have to slightly move the thumb nut the a corner of the burr shaft. I reassembled the grinder and a little later i went to dismantle the grinder again and could not get the thumb nut off again, it made me crazy. Then i figured out that i needed to turn the adjustment dial until the burrs are fully open, only when my burrs were 100% open could i turn the thumb nut and release the burrs. It does help if you push the burrs up from below also, so the thumb nut is not so tight. also take the adjustment dial off when you are doing it, i dont think it matters, but it might help. So give that a try and let me know how it goes.

[@isqueirosbic]

@@mightymightyironhead i had to apply an inordinate amount of force downwards in the nut since it was kinda stuck/rusted? either way, i’m not sure my grinder came out of this intact lol

[@mightymightyironhead]

@@isqueirosbic the nut should not need pushing downwards, i am not sure why you would need to do that?. When you are taking the nut off, you just need to open the burrs completely, then take the adjustment dial off, push the burrs up and then turn the thumb nut slightly left or right. When the small dot on the thumb nut is on any corner of the burrs shaft, the nut is locked, when the small dot is positioned on any of the straight parts of the burr shaft, its open and the burrs should just drop out. I never use water anywhere near my grinders and i don't advise others to do that, i also never use the WDT on my beans and i also advise others to not do that, but again i honestly don't see how this would rust the thumb nut. The nut should not get rusted, even if you leave the nut soaked in water for weeks i don't think that it would be enough to rust it to the point where it wont come off. The only other thing that i can think that might make the thumb nut get stuck, if if the grinder has not been cleaned and the grinder has been using a lot of really oily dark roasted beans and the oil from the beans have gummed up the grinder, but that would also be obvious and i really don't think that even that would make the thumb nut stick. Anyway its good that you managed to remove the thumb nut.

[@isqueirosbic]

@@mightymightyironhead yes, it was super stuck, not freely moving. either way it seems fine though, but i cant help but think i fucked something up. the burrs are fine though

[@mightymightyironhead]

@@isqueirosbic yes i was a little confused when you said that you needed to push down on the thumb nut, the nut can only screw left or right to take it off. So i am assuming that you were talking about the burrs and pushing the burr shaft down? If you were talking about the burr shaft, it is possible that you can "lock up the burrs" by over tightening them when you calibrate the adjustment dial. Sometimes users turn the adjustment dial too hard to get the 0 number into position and this can jam the burrs and the dial wont move, then its not possible to take the thumb nut off without tools and tapping the top of the shaft with a hammer. Anyway its good news that you got it sorted out.

[@Rubiks_LIVE]

I cannot get the outer burrs unscrewed for the life of me

[@mightymightyironhead]

Yes the outer burrs can be a little difficult to remove. They can over tighten a little after using the grinder for a while, so i try to take mine out as often as possible when i clean my grinder. You need to use something that has a good grip to turn the burrs, anything with rubber will help and obviously make sure that you are turning the correct way to loosen. I have some gardening gloves that have rubber on the surface and this lets me get a good grip to turn the burrs. Something like these: totallybranded.co.uk/product/jardinero-garden-gloves/

[@Rubiks_LIVE]

@mightymightyironhead thanks for the tips! The gardening gloves is a great idea. I'll keep trying! Haha

[@mightymightyironhead]

Sorry for the late reply, KZbin is a little strange with updating me about comments. Yes it can be a real pain to get the outer burrs off, sorry i dont have a quick fix for that, but anything rubber that gives you a good grip will work pretty well. I used to wrap a half dozen rubber bands around the space on the outside of the burrs and that can give you a decent grip, but its best to try and use both hands. Anyway good luck.

[@blablablabla1111111]

I had the same issue, nowadays the izpresso comes with a flat rubber band, i put it where the outer burrs are, and was able to remove it, you have to make sure you are moving in the right direction, it was the opposite of what i thought.