2.8 Duramax Timing belt and Water pump replacement

[@daydream19681]

glad I caught this video as I'm preparing to do mine as I'm now rolling past 150,000 miles. I plan on using the GM special tools to hold in place as I don't want to risk having something move and I already bought them anyway.

[@craighoffman6876]

Some really smart shortcuts here, like removing the fan as an assembly. Great tips about marking it and finding it's "happy spot" before removing the belt. Good job! Removed the 2.8 cover and tossed that sound insulation foam a long time ago. I like a little diesel sound but it is only really noticeable at idle when cold.

[@RyanBloemke]

Special tools lovers be punching the air right now. Jokes aside, it’s refreshing to see someone use their brain instead of just following what everyone else says you MUST use.

[@Bpf1893]

Thanks for making this man. Not many videos (if any) on this job. Definitely makes it easier to tackle when the time comes.

[@breoll86]

Thanks for watching! Glad you found it helpful. It's really not a bad job at all.

[@Xstream_Metal_TV]

Hello, just did the timing job and water pump job today on canyon 2018, your video helped me on the whole thing. Thanks for this! Helpful as hell!

[@breoll86]

Thanks for watching! Glad to hear that it helped.

[@donaldmontgomery9340]

Seeing this video makes me happy. I like to work on my own vehicles, and it’s nice to know that a timing belt on this diesel is very similar to other older timing belts that I have done in the past. Looking at getting a truck in the near future, and the Canyon/Colorado twins with the 2.8 are on the short list. Looking at 60-80k miles on them so I will have a little time, but if I land in one before the weather gets cold, I’m all over it.

[@user-lw6sp5pk1y]

The timing belt is in great shape because timing belts will last a lot longer than 100k. A whole lot. However, any service that requires removing the timing belt I would recommend changing it. Awsome job.

[@breoll86]

When I was a tech for Lexus timing belts were replaced every 90k. That's been burned into my brain ever since. I know that GM recommends 150k, but that goes against my gut feeling. And for the cost, it's cheap insurance. Seeing the grooves that had worn into the metal pulleys makes me glad I did it now.

[@phatboizbackyardkustomz9006]

I had one on a gas job break @ 102k Thank God mast gas jobs have some valve relief this day and age, But unfortunately diesels don't give you that relief. When they break it messes up everything! Change it @ 100k no matter what the MFG says!

[@breoll86]

@@phatboizbackyardkustomz9006 Unfortunately the high compression of a diesel won't allow you to keep the valves away from the pistons. I hear a lot of guys have had success with further intervals. But you're right. Better safe than sorry.

[@Str33tSupra]

Awesome video man. Im doing mine right now. One thing that would be VERY helpful would be mentioning factory torque values for waterpump, idler pulleys etc. Thanks for taking the time to film these jobs!

[@breoll86]

@@Str33tSupra Thanks for watching! I honestly didn't torque any of these bolts. Experience has taught me how tight things should be. That being said I will torque critical bolts like head bolts, main caps, rod bolts, balancer bolts, ect. If you're interested I'm pretty sure those specs are readily available online though. Beats scrolling through a video to find it. But I can see your point. Maybe I should have made all of that info available in one spot. Thanks for the feedback.

[@Str33tSupra]

No worries man! If anyone reading this is wondering, the FSM states torque for the waterpump is 18lb/ft. It doesn't specify an order... so star pattern obviously. Torque for idler pulley is 21lb/ft

[@wolflord256]

A few of the other videos I've seen mark the old belt and pulleys while it's installed, either different colors for different pulleys or a different number of marks. Then line up the old and new belts (tape them together) and transfer the marks from the old belt to the new. When you install you can make sure those marks match up all around. Bit extra in addition to the marks that you were making, but can't hurt to have additional reference points on installation of the new belt.

[@NuclearCowboyTube]

Are these engines any good ? Reliable ? what kind mileage long-term are people seeing

[@MrTesedgar]

Hi am back . Question did u had to use any special tool like others recommend? Great video.

[@miket8909]

Funny you posted this today, I pulled mine apart yesterday to change leaking HPFP. Tensioner wouldnt hold the alignment marks so im waiting 3 days for that

[@breoll86]

Sorry to hear that. I've gotten into the habit of replacing as much as I can while I'm in there. Hopefully the rest of your project goes smoothly.

[@travisjshank1]

Why wouldn't it hold alignment marks..what was the fix for that?

[@anymouse6202]

Thanks

[@HR-rt9nh]

Got 118k on my 2017 Colorado 2.8 Z71 Nice video... in line with what i want done. but i will have dealership do it. Apparently there is a special tool required for mine according to what my mechanic told me, and even he cant get it from chevy.

[@breoll86]

That is always the safest option. Plus you get some form of warranty on parts and labor.

[@horsehead8306]

The special tool is to lock the cam gear in place. It is easily available on line or at repo or super cheap auto. If your mechanic can’t get hold of a simple tool I wouldn’t be letting him work on my car🤣. Just FYI the Colorado engine is the same as the Chevy and the timing belt can be done without the special tools by anyone with half an idea of what needs to be done.

[@breoll86]

@@horsehead8306 Belt can also be changed without the tool. It's all about personal preference and neither way is right or wrong.

[@horsehead8306]

@@breoll86 I totally agree mate, I made a typo which I’ve now corrected.

[@TheZman77]

Does the HPFP need to be timed also?

[@breoll86]

@@TheZman77 No it does not

[@williamcarmichael4061]

Out of curiosity all the kits I've seen include the harmonic balancer seal, did you replace this, is it a must?

[@williamcarmichael4061]

in other words what parts did you throw together? I have a list of 5 parts from rockauto, got this coming up within the next 10k

[@breoll86]

@@williamcarmichael4061 That seal is a dust shield for the timing belt cover. It doesn't retain any oil or fluids. I have one for the new motor but I didn't replace mine during this job.

[@williamcarmichael4061]

@@breoll86 you’re an absolute hero man, this timed out flawlessly because I’m doing 30 over injectors at the same time as timing belt too, trying to keep in line. Thank you so much for the effort you put in for the lwn community

[@breoll86]

@@williamcarmichael4061 Thanks for watching. Glad I can help any way that I can.

[@travisjshank1]

Thanks for the videos..gonna probably trash my engine but gonna take on the job

[@MrTesedgar]

Very nice question did u had to relearn or reprogram the computer for the belt replacement? Have heard when doing the t belt it beeds ro be reprogram and then the engine hour erase and start over . How true is that. ?

[@breoll86]

@@MrTesedgar That's false. The ECU doesn't monitor timing belt wear. Erasing engine hours would be equivalent to rolling back the odometer.

[@TS-mv8ws]

You obviously have some knowledge of these 2.8 duramax engines. Ive heard rumors that the 18+ had upgraded parts of sorts and if you're gonna get one they're the ones to get. Have any opinion on this?

[@breoll86]

@@TS-mv8ws The 19+ was the year they changed some things. Mainly the fuel injection system. Internally they are the same. But I hear the Holden Colorados may have seen changes in piston/rod material or design. But I don't have any personal experience with that so I can't provide much insight. In my opinion the early models are the ones to get. Mostly because they have a greater aftermarket support. But that may change if owners of the newer models seek further parts development for their engines. Although, this engine is no longer in production, so that may deter aftermarket companies from investing in the platform.

[@modus16222]

i would never attempt to do what you do in your videos, but the reason i like your videos is when i take it into my mechanic i have a better understanding as to what he is going to do and parts needed for the job. When you do your repairs do you use premium parts or the best value parts? For instance i looked up the price difference between a Gates water pump and an AC delco pump and the AC Delco pump was $150 more. In your opinion is the AC Delco pump a better quality water pump? Thanks, and great video!

[@breoll86]

I nearly always prefer to use OEM parts unless it's a "performance" part. The only exception would be if the OEM part is on eternal backorder. Then I'll purchase aftermarket parts. I bought the parts for this job over a year ago from the dealer. I can't remember what I paid for them.

[@robm3357]

Brian, nice job and you make that look very simple. I have a 2018 with 80,000 miles and was dreading doing this but not anymore. What is the special tool everyone talks about? Thanks again for this. Rob

[@breoll86]

I'm assuming everyone might be talking about the crank and cam holding tools. I do own those, I have used them once and determined them to be a waste of time. If someone is worried about the motor rolling over once the belt is removed the tools will prevent that. Unfortunately the belt cannot be removed with the crank holding tool installed. So it kinda makes it useless in my opinion. Just do this job the old fashioned way. It's fundamentally no different than any other interference engine.

[@matthewturgeon767]

So you dont need to worry about the lower gear ? Is the timing only tdc on cam and crank

[@breoll86]

@@matthewturgeon767 Are you referring to the fuel pump gear? Unlike old school mechanical injection, the common rail pumps do not need to be time with the engine as the injections timing is controlled by the ECM, not the relation of the pump to the engine.

[@ryanlogan2911]

Which way is the threads on the fan clutch?

[@juststuBC]

Hey man! Appreciate the video. It's gonna be time for me to do this soon. I've seen timing belt tool kits online but to it looks like you don't use one. Am I missing something?

[@breoll86]

@@juststuBC You only need the special tools if you feel like you need them. They are not required to do the job. But they can be used to hold the cams in place while you remove the belt. I just marked the position with a sharpie and made sure they were in the same spot when I reinstalled the belt.

[@juststuBC]

@@breoll86 Thanks. I'll do the same,.

[@IOwnCalculus]

How many hours are on that truck? You definitely work faster than I do, I've had my '18 SLE torn down that far to replace the A/C compressor and I wasn't staring at a bare timing cover in less than two hours.

[@breoll86]

I don't remember the hours off the top but I can check in the morning and get back to you. Work at your own pace. I wouldn't expect someone who's never done a timing belt before to have it done in 2-3hrs. But this engine is one of the easiest ones that I've done.

[@breoll86]

Sorry, hours were around 2950

[@efanclublolsmaforlife2501]

Bro is playing russian roulette

[@breoll86]

I'd love to hear why you think that. Kind of a useless comment without any context.