2001 TOYOTA AVALON - HOW TO REPLACE REAR BRAKE PADS & ROTORS - DIY

Sil Glyde on Amazon: amzn.to/2L6obdd
Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on Amazon: amzn.to/2DhoQG3
Just another quick video showing how to change the rear brake pads and rotors on a 2001 Toyota Avalon. This will be the same for years 2000-2004.
Tools Needed:
14mm socket and/or wrench or breaker bar
Sil-Glyde brake grease
large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar
www.danthefixitman.org
Thanks for watching!
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-Dan the Fix it Man
Song used in the video is ''Cubic Z" by Diamond Ortiz
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[@michaelpowell4852]

Thanks so much for this video. It's so thorough and detailed. By far the best and most helpful.

[@iulianstoican1119]

The TORQUE is 34 ft/lb for Caliper Suport screws and 14 ft/lb for the screws at caliper.

[@Drew-jq1qm]

This video was a HUGE help and I was able to change my rotors/brake pads for the first time and had no idea what I was doing. The only thing I’d add is that I had to rent a tool from Auto Zone to get the brake piston to retract. Took me forever to figure out I didn’t do something wrong haha. Thanks for the help! You’re a good man

[@Sasser2015]

Dan, I'd never even done a brake-pad job, but with the help of this vid I just successfully changed the rear rotors on my 2002 Avalon. Only thing that took a while was getting those damn guide-pins loose with my regular socket wrench..... smooth sailing after that. Just wanted to say thanks.

[@Djevan41598]

This is a great video. I have a 2002 Avalon. I will do this myself this weekend

[@richardundlin8593]

Nice job on the video, just what I needed to look at before I take a look at my rear brakes!

[@dredman011]

Hello Dan, Huge thank you for the video. I build Harleys, and also work on the family cars. Nothing crazy, just basic stuff. When I was first learning motorcycle repair almost 40 years ago, a seasoned tech reminded me that working on someone's brakes can literally mean life or death. You have to know what you're doing. I've changed dozens of rotors/pads/drum brakes on various vehicles, but this was my first time with an Avalon. While most brake construction is pretty much the same, remembering my Mentor's advice, I would be more comfortable knowing exactly what I should do. Your video does just that. Simple, clear, teaching, nothing overly explained, but nothing missed. Thank you again for your time and effort on the video. It is the most straight forward, informative one I found. On a side note, look into Power Stop Brake Kits on Amazon. (I get nothing from them, I just like their products.) Their kits include new rubber bushings/boots, pad clips, grease, everything you need. I find their pads/rotors wear very well. Cheers!

[@DantheFixitMan]

Thank you so much for the nice comment, and for the tip on power stop pads. I have used them in the past on a few vehicles, and I currently have them installed on my wife’s Lx 450 and they are working great.👍🏼 Thx again, Take care, -Dan the Fix it Man

[@jamesswartz9609]

Really great video very informative and well shot thanks

[@user-uo4yv2or5q]

Thanks for that useful video. Subscribed ! 👍

[@fullmelt977]

Dan is the man!

[@larrylangley9128]

Great video very informative.

[@zackdiviak6983]

Great job, very clear.

[@bencarling3]

I have to do this same job on the same year avalon in this video. Thanks for the great video. Good tip to line up hole in rotor to adjust parking brake.

[@johnqpublic4012]

Ha! And I thought I was one of the few remaining weirdos who still grease the boots. I do this on caliper piston, caliper bolt and even cv boots to protect against the elements. So long as it's a rubber friendly lube. Sure it'll attract a little dirt but I've not had dry rot on boots in decades. Jesus, Dan, ya got me watching videos of sht I've been doing for years. I guess I can't help but wonder how others do the same job....never know where you might find a fresh perspective even for the simplest of jobs. Really nicely done videos, by the way. Clear angles and straight to the point. Thought about making repair videos years ago and decided I just didn't have it in me to go through the videography crap...lol. So folks are lucky you're willing to invest the time to do it.

[@davidwe8182]

Awesome job and thank you!

[@keannalaulhere1385]

great video buddy mad props

[@robertweir9034]

Your getting more and more thorough. Your thoughts sir. Where I live, there is a lot of rust. Therefore, where the brake pad hardware is used, and under it on the caliper bracket, there is something commonly known as rust jacking. The bracket needs to be removed, and using files or a sandblaster is required to get back down to bare medal. Then a light coat of lubricant (silicon based) is applied under the hardware. You refer to them as clips. Then, no lubricant is applied to the surface where it contacts the pads because this invites dirt, dust and road debri to stick or accumulate.

[@DantheFixitMan]

Hello Again Robert, Yes, if the caliper brackets are really rusty, it's necessary to take out the hardware and clean the caliper bracket with a wire brush or file to get the pad retainer clips (hardware) to seat properly. I think that's a great tip to put the lubricant under the hardware as well and should help prevent some of the rust on the caliper bracket. I can see your point of how road dust and debris might stick to the grease on the top surface of that hardware, but all of the diagrams I have seen show that grease should be applied to the brake mounting tabs or 'ears' and the pad retainer clips (hardware) surface where the pads make contact. Here is a link to one diagram I found online: www.justanswer.com/uploads/ebrock63/2009-03-14_192438_2009-03-14_132705.png Here's a link to another brand of brake grease with a diagram on their website: www.super-lube.com/brake-grease-applications My understanding is that this would help the brake pad move freely in and out as the brakes are applied and as the pad material wears down. Without the grease on that surface, I would think there would be a greater chance of the pad getting stuck or not completely release it from pressing on the rotor causing premature wear. Again, I appreciate the great comments and feedback. Take care, -Dan the Fix it Man

[@ghost-4230]

My brakes weren’t working too well for me a few months ago. They just didn’t feel right. I took the brakes & hardware off and saw the rust you’re talking about. It was so much that I couldn’t even file it down. I had to buy new ones. On the new ones I put anti seize underneath the brake hardware. I’d highly suggest that even if you don’t live in a cold place. It can’t hurt right? Also I put that brake grease on the inside of the hardware where the brake pads slide. You’re right, I just checked and there is a bit of dirt stuck to it. Now I know

[@Vfh........y]

Robert is correct never put grease where the pads run on the bracket. It is an invitation for all kinds of problems. But the rush jacking issue is absolutely correct. The model here is usually wire brush on your caliper brackets and make sure everything is down to bare metal as Robert has said.

[@lucidbarrier]

I worked on mine today, a 2004 Avalon. The bottom slide pin on the passenger rear was rusted in place. All the lube was gone. I bought a Hercules 3/8" cordless ratchet which couldn't remove it. I couldn't budge it with a breaker but I carefully was able to break it using a Craftsman 1/2" cordless impact. I used a screw driver to push against the flange of the bolt (slider) while using the impact to spin it free. The rotor was also rusted solid to the face of the hub. Even with a sledge, it wouldn't budge. I had to thread 2 bolts into the threaded bolt holes to remove it, I think they are 10mm? When I was torquing them down, I thought I broke the bolts but it was the rust breaking the seal between the two faces. I bought Sil-Glyde like you used on the slider bolts and face of the steel hardware inserts. I also used a brass brush on the face of the hubs to remove some of the rust. Then I applied some axle grease to the hub face so it wouldn't stick anymore. The one thing that threw me off was the slider bolts. The one with the rubber stopper at the end was on top on the passenger side caliper, but on the driver side, it was on the bottom. Do you know which way is the correct way to install them? I noticed you put it on the bottom @12:14

[@silveriocastillo3852]

Wow you are boss of bosses👍

[@ocsrc]

Can you confirm the Banjo Bolts for the rear caliper are 47318D ? Do you know if Doorman or Duralast or anyone makes replacement BANJO Bolts for a 99 Avalon ? I am trying to get replacement bolts, but having a really hard time. I bought the calipers and the hoses and neither come with the banjo bolts Thanks

[@cheapestwhips2010]

Thank you for this Upload. Now I can go on out to my icy driveway to save me $150.

[@dreadheadshawty192]

Do you hace a front ROTOR VIDEO

[@somethingmoredecent]

Is there a way to get close to the 34 ft lbs torque without using a torqud wrench? Any tips? It's the one tool I haven't been able to find, and I'm terrified of over- or under-torquing those little caliper bolts.

[@DantheFixitMan]

Alexander, Great question, I have done this so many times and for so many years, a lot of times I don't even use torque wrenches even though I now have several of them. I still go by feel most of the time. I try to get the torque specs on my videos and in the description whenever possible, because it's hard to explain how to 'go by feel' on video... Best of luck to you! Thanks for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man

[@randallockerman2540]

Is there a video for replacing the front rotors. I have tried a hammer as you have on the back rotor but I was unable to get to move the rotor at all. Am I missing something? This video is awesome and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge! Help please

[@DantheFixitMan]

Hi Randall, Sorry to hear you're having trouble...Sometimes they are really stuck on the hub and don't want to come off. There are usually two small threaded holes in the rotor that allow you to use two small bolts threaded through the rotor to press the rotor off of the hub. (I am not sure on the size, but it might be M8 x 1.25?) Go slow and steady on each bolt and eventually it should pop free from the hub. Sometimes if there's a lot of rust or corrosion the threads don't hold up in the rotor and this doesn't work. If that doesn't work, you might want to try a large 3 jaw puller. Best of luck to you! -Dan the Fix it Man

[@geoffmiller3468]

Thanks man! But is there a good source on how to bleed the line? Should I be bleeding the line?

[@DantheFixitMan]

Hi Geoff, No need to bleed the brakes if you didn't open the bleeder screw or introduce any air into the system. Some people have a habit of bleeding the brakes every time they change the brake pads because it also cycles the old fluid out of the system. Or some people open the bleeder screw to make it easier to compress the caliper piston. That's not a bad thing, just not necessary each brake pad change (in my opinion). Thanks for watching! Best of luck to you! -Dan the Fix it Man

[@DantheFixitMan]

@@MAXIMUSMINIMALIST the parking brake shoes are only used when applying the parking brake, but a lot of the wear can happen when people drive off without releasing the parking brake. They do not get used under normal braking. Thanks for watching! Best of luck to you! -Dan the Fix it Man

[@Arrozconchopsticks]

Anyone know where I can find new slide pins for the caliper?

[@kfm908]

those bolts twisted off and broke on my car.I went to the local toyota dealer for new ones 5$ each

[@somatra52]

Will this method work for a 2004 Toyota Solara?

[@DantheFixitMan]

Yes, it’s the same as the Solara. Thx for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man

[@stackinchedda8538]

Ia that a Avalon XL?

[@stoneyj1a1]

Wow, it looks almost new under that 18 year old car. My 2003 Avalon is really rusting and one of my caliper pins broke in half. Not sure how I'm going to get it out, there's hardly anything to grab onto. I may just replace the entire caliper bracket if I can get it off.

[@DantheFixitMan]

I hope it doesn't give you too much trouble. I live in Southern California, so the cars don't really rust too bad. Sorry to hear the caliper pin broke. If you can get the caliper bracket off, you might be able to drill it out enough to use an EZ Out? Or... if you have access to a junkyard nearby, you should be able to find another caliper bracket as well. Best of luck to you. -Dan the Fix it Man

[@stoneyj1a1]

@@DantheFixitMan Well I tried again to get the bolt out after work, no good even with a torch. So I was able to find a new bracket at one Autozone nearby-$33 bucks. 10 stores nearby did not have it. Guess I got lucky. Getting the bracket off was easier than I thought. New bolts 12 bucks. Me & the woman fixed it tonight. Cant imagine what a shop would charge for such a repair. Thanks

[@DantheFixitMan]

Great news! Glad to hear you got it fixed, and saved some money as well. Thx again for watching, Take care, -Dan the Fix it Man

[@roltyd22]

On your caliper does or did it have play like rattling noise when driving on rough pavement? I got a rattle that's annoying on my 03 Avalon on rear back I think its the caliper loose

[@DantheFixitMan]

I didn't notice any play or anything loose that would cause it to rattle, and this is my nephew's car and he hasn't noticed any noise like that since I have done the brakes. I have heard that the rear strut mounts can be noisy (the front too). The rubber boot in the top gets old and breaks and can cause some noise. Just a thought... Thanks for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man

[@roltyd22]

@@DantheFixitMan yeah I saw that also,I know I can put pressure on the brake while driving and it stops I'm hoping its the caliper being loose that's causing,thanks man great videos by the way

[@DantheFixitMan]

@@roltyd22 Hopefully you find it and it's an easy fix. Maybe jack up the car and see if you can hear it when pushing the wheel around? Or I guess it could be a wheel bearing going bad?

[@roltyd22]

@@DantheFixitMan It was the slide pins worn and sticking causing the annoying rattle.

[@jaycarl1562]

@@roltyd22 thanks for updating, this help me