SUZUKI C50 SETTING VALVE TAPPETS - PART TWO

SETTING VALVES FROM START TO FINISH

[@Kdsound]

Absolute genius. I did mine 3 years ago and couldnt get the feeler gauge in any of the valves and spent hours at the grinder which through off the sides of the gauge. I stopped in the middle and put it back together, it was this video that gave me the confidence to try fro a second time. My hat off to you my friend. I can add a few things to this that make it easier. When using the adjuster use an 11mm or whatever size to hold the adjuster (wood) as you tighten the lock nut. If you go to Harbor buy a set of Pittsburgh 8pc offset box srench set (Metric) Item number 32042. This makes getting the front (clutch side) valve cover screw much easier to reach, but this 90 degree offset 10mm makes getting the the hardest bolt that you spoke about a breeze to get off. It fits perfect and has the perfect amount of depth to get to the bold and just clear the frame. Other then that, this video is by far the BEST. Took me a total of 4 hours from beginning to end.

[@2001himax]

Hi Kenneth, Good idea. Now that you have done it, it will take less time the next time you do it. Thank you for watching. Norman

[@2001himax]

Hi KDsound, I just got the comment in my E-Mail that you left me a comment. WOW ! It took 4 years to get it? . I will pick up the H.F. wrench set you recommend. Thank you for your comment. Norman. P.S. Some comments I never got and found them when I answered a comment beside it.

[@GreggyWeggy]

Just wanted to drop a little note to say thanks for these videos. I must've watched these two on the valve adjustment five times and it helped me greatly! Now, I'm a fan of all your content. Keep up the good work!

[@2001himax]

Welcome Greggy, Thank you so much for your comment. Norman.

[@richardbrooks9568]

Thank you very much for doing this video! I have always been afraid of doing this job on my boulevard. This is extremely helpful!

[@2001himax]

Hi Richard, Thank you for watching. If you do it take your time. Norman

[@LiveGoodSMW]

Finally, a real good video on how to do this. I have an 07, C50, same valve clearance on the 07 as your 2012. Thanks for taking the time to do this.

[@2001himax]

Hi Sean, Thank you for your comment. So glad it helped you. Saves you money too. Norman.

[@shaneworden5095]

Here I am watching it at 1am. Best video on valve adjustment sir. Thanks for doing it. I will be keeping it for future reference. Well done! Long live the suzuki BULLY.

[@2001himax]

Hi Shane, Thank you for your input. I am a night person due to working in the steel mill over 35 years and 34 of it was midnight shift. Norman

[@barrettwilliams3355]

Thanks again. Great couple of videos that really helped me do this job correctly.

[@2001himax]

It saves a lot of money. The dealers are so expensive but everything costs a lot today.

[@Tacbi0325]

U are awesome !! I can believe how much knowledge u are able to share !!

[@2001himax]

Hi Tabitha, Thank you for your kind comment. Norman

[@yukawanderer1181]

Thank you very much for your video! You are very patient and meticulous! I just got my first bike a suzuki boulevard c50 its 2006 with 23000 miles.

[@2001himax]

Hi Elmer, Thank you for your comment. All my best to you and your family. Norman.

[@Ed-ip2sg]

Great stuff. Thanks for all you insight and skill

[@2001himax]

Hi Ed, Thank you for your comment. Happy Easter to you and your family. Norman.

[@steveharvey4036]

You are the man! Just wonderful. thank you!

[@2001himax]

Hi Steve, Thank you so much for your comment. You made my day. All my best to you and your family. Norman.

[@John-jp7hn]

Great job. Thank you. I have learned a lot from your videos.

[@2001himax]

Hi John, Thank you so much for your great comment. At my age I like to pass on some of my ideas. I make no money from my videos. I have been so blessed through out my life so I want to pass it on. Plus it's fun to make them. All my best to you. Norman.

[@thedrivewhisperer3156]

Very good video! The tricks are helpful.

[@2001himax]

Some say that you can't set the valves doing it this way. They don't understand that turning the screw 1/4 turn is so many thousandth as I show with the indicator. Glad it helped you. Norman.

[@perfectfan2006]

extremely helpful video great work

[@2001himax]

Hi Marie, Thank you for your comment. Saves a lot of money doing this yourself. Norman.

[@joshuabusick1940]

You, my friend are a lifesaver thank you kind, sir

[@briggsfartblender788]

Very informative video. I have a VX800 and the valve set-up is the same. I bought the genuine Suzuki square ended tappet adjuster tool and the fit is so sloppy I never use it. I will get some of those screws with the square head like you're using. Thank you.

[@2001himax]

Hi Briggs, Thank you for watching. Norman

[@mountainsasquatch13]

Ever heard of a thread pitch gage? I was a machinist for ten years. I used the thread pitch gage to identify tpi (threads per inch). Once tpi is determined, divide tpi into one and the result is the amount of travel per revolution of the bolt. You can then divide that by 360 degree to calculate how far to move the bolt in degrees to get your proper amount of travel per degree. A thread pitch gage is way cheaper than a dial indicator and magnetic base.

[@2001himax]

My way is like old school, like me. I use the dial indicator for checking the run out on my spoke wheels and adjust if need be. When I put on a new tire I balance it and check the run out. When done it runs super smooth.

[@mountainsasquatch13]

@@2001himax On the wheel that's the best option I guess. But for checking thread travel and pitch you want to use a thread gage.

[@edwinacevedo8420]

You make such a complicated thing so easy. Your better than the Manuel.

[@2001himax]

I think of the new people that are working on their bikes and gear my videos so they can fallow. I was working on my oil furnace in the workshop and one guy I watched , and I watch a lot, told how to repair and find the problem from the start. Found the problem and saved me a lot of money by not calling a repair man. All my best Norman.

[@panasync2134]

Excellent!!!

[@2001himax]

Thank you for your comment. Glad it helped you. Norman.

[@SK-xk4ql]

Thank you, sir!

[@2001himax]

Thank you for watching and your great comment. Norman.

[@paulalbares643]

After watching this video I have memories of doing the valves on my old VW bug every 3,000 miles, what a PITA. Seeing how close the working space is on the C50 I think I will get a C90 instead with the hydraulic valve lifters.

[@2001himax]

Hi Paul, The first time I set the valves it took me longer. After doing it it's not so bad and only have to be done every 15,000 miles. Norman

[@paulalbares643]

@@2001himax I have been researching the Suzuki Boulevard C90 and C50 as well as the Kawasaki Nomad, the 900 and the 1500/1600. If only I could make a model with the best of both models that would be the ultimate bike. I like the shaft drive of the Boulevards, the C90 has the hydraulic valve lifters, the Kawasaki has the shims which require changing very little if ever and they are easy to do and easy to measure with a lot of space. I don't care for the belt drive because it is a PITA to change but I know it doesn't have to be done unless you have something get between the belt and the pulley to damage the belt. Then the whole swing arm has to come off. I do all my own maintenance because I am retired and I want it done right, even if it takes me a while to do it. I have a lift and a large garage but I rather be riding it than working on it. Thanks for the video because your method of measuring will work on any type of vehicle that has that sort of valve adjustment and limited space to get your gauge and fingers into. If it weren't for youtube we all would be scratching our heads when it comes to all sorts of things we need to do. Heck, you can even find how to deliver a baby on youtube!

[@2001himax]

@@paulalbares643 So true. Look at the Boulevard, you have to take the seats and gas tank off to just get to the radiator cap! If I were going to buy a new bike today I wouldn't know what to pick. Just research on you- tube then try to decide. Also a test ride would help.

[@577buttfan]

Yeah to check the antifreeze reservoir you need to remove the left side engine cover kinda stupid if ya ask me.@@2001himax

[@wallycleaver1046]

great job, i only wish it had sound! thanks

[@2001himax]

I have no idea why some people get no sound from this video. Norman.

[@jeromejanci8318]

I wish you would have showed how to get the two bolts out of the front intake tappets cover...I could not figure out how to get at one of the bolts

[@2001himax]

Hi Jerome, I put a wrench on it then used a piece of wood to push it loose. It was so tight the wrench broke but I could still get the wood on the end of the wrench and push it. Norman.

[@RubenGonzalez-bw2bc]

Really nice video thanks for your time, have you done the coolant change on your c-50 ?

[@2001himax]

I have the Evans coolant in it now and will wait till late fall to drain it out and see what it looks like. Not sure weather to go with it or back to regular coolant. I was thinking of getting a Harbor Freight heat reader, taking the bike for a ride, take a heat reading , then change to regular, run the same road and see what the temps would be. May give me an idea if it does run cooler.

[@mccslawg]

I have an unrelated question. I have a 2014 Suzuki C50 Boss. I’m attempting to change my rear wheel bearings but the bearing hole is to small for the bearing puller I purchased. Have you changed out the bearing on a boulevard before and if so what tool did you use to remove the bearing ? Thanks Reggie

[@2001himax]

Hi Reggie. I haven't changed my bearings but I have changed bearings like that. Try this. Put your finger in the hole through the bearing and feel the seam of the bearing and where it seats. This is where you will be pushing the bearing out using this seam. Lay the wheel down with the bearing facing down. Take an old screwdriver and sharpen it on one side to make it like a chisel. Slide the screwdriver down the hole with the unsharpened side to the outer side of the hole. As you go down you will feel the seem. Stop there. Try to rest the chisel on that seam. ON the bearing. Take a hammer and tap it just a little. Go to the other side and do the same. Go back and forth as you try to move the bearing a little at a time. If it doesn't move try hitting it a little harder to get it to start moving. If you get the bearing to move some and have a gap between the bearing and the seat get a metal rod and use it to drive it out. When putting a new seal in make sure it goes in straight. I use a socket that sets on the outer part of the new bearing. A piece of metal pipe of the correct size will work. Hope this helps you. If this does not work you can take it to the dealer and ask them to remove it. Let me know how you make out. Norman.

[@re-entryrider2839]

These videos are great! Thanks for making them! On my 2005 c50 the rear cylinder doesn’t fire correctly. The spark plug fires but brand new plugs get all black very quickly, and the engine pulls very unevenly, particularly on low and normal throttle levels. Do you think this issue could fixed with a tappet adjustment or should I look at other causes first?

[@2001himax]

Hi Re-Entry Rider, A plug that gets black could mean that it is running very rich. First- Did it run like that on the old plug ? Do you have the right plug in the rear cylinder ? Same number, Same length ? Get another new plug and put it in the rear cylinder. Make sure you gap the plug to the right setting. When I order plugs for my bikes I always get two sets just incase a new plug is bad witch is very rare. I also carry a new set with me when I ride. A black plug could be that cylinder is running rich for some reason. Look on You-Tube for how to bring up codes and see if there are any codes that may help find your problem. You need to have a Clymer book on your bike. I think they have a problem solving section in the book. I would look at these things first. If you can't find anything wrong you may need a dealer to look at it. First try another plug. Please let me know how you make out. The valves need checked and reset if needed every 15,000 miles. that is what the book says. Norman.

[@re-entryrider2839]

@@2001himax thanks Norman! I got the bike running bad. It has 35k miles. Yes, running rich seems to be exactly what it does on that cylinder. I’ll see if I can get codes to point me in a better direction. But sounds like it’s time to set the tappets anyway. I’ll keep you posted.

[@Hnl954]

Thank you sir

[@2001himax]

Hi Pepe, Thank you for your comment. Norman.

[@Hnl954]

@@2001himax not a problem, I bought a 2006 and I’m sure never had valves adjusted. I did everything you said to do on video and my wife was so impressed thank you for your very informative video it was a pleasure to watch

[@2001himax]

@@Hnl954 Glad it helped you. Norman.

[@mrdang5801]

Can you make a video on how to tighten the CAM CHAIN/CAM CHAIN TENSIONER? My 07 C50 is making a tick tick tock sounds when idling

[@2001himax]

kzbin.info?search_query=suzuki+boulevard+c50+cam+chain+adjustment This may help you I have never done mine. It may be the valves that need set. Take a wooden dowel rod and place it on the top of the engine and place the other end on your ear while the engine is running. The place the rod lower down around the middle of the engine. Where is the noise the loudest? This may help tell where the trouble is at. Norman

[@dkj4183]

Like I had said before, I'm looking for a C50 like the one you're working on re valve adjustments. The dark blue and white C50. Thanks much for this video. I'll need to know how to do this procedure when I get my C50. Thank you. Dean Jackson Seattle

[@EazyDuz18]

Im unsure what you mean when you say you tighten the tappet down until its 'just touching'. Should you finger tighten it down until you cant finger tighten it anymore, then back it off a quarter and a bit? Or do you tighten it until you feel the first bit of resistance and then back it out? It seems very hit and miss this method

[@2001himax]

Hi Combustion69, I tighten it down lightly till I feel the first bit of resistance. Then look at the square stick position and back it out as needed. If this seems hit and miss then you should not be doing this job. It may not be for everyone. It is for ones that do all their own work on their bikes. As I show when I put the adjuster in the vice and turn it with the dial indicator on it , it shows the amount it is turning. It works because the amount of feedback, comments and thumbs up on these two videos. I hope this helps you decide weather to do it or not. If you have any other questions just ask. Norman

[@EazyDuz18]

@@2001himax Ive done valves a few times before on bikes which have better access for feeler gauges. I just think 'when you feel resistance' is very subjective because you could be out by half a turn or more depending on where you deem 'resistance' to be

[@gunner4373]

What size are the Square head screws? I know the common sizes are just #1 and #2 square head but not sure which one to get. Thanks!

[@2001himax]

Hi Gunner, It's a #2. Norman.

[@kuzmikval]

When you lock the screw back down with the lock nut, it WILL pull up a little, NO DOUBT about it!! The tighter you tighten it, the more is will pull the screw up, creating unwanted space between the rocker, and the screw. So if anyone decides to do a valve clearance job like this guy is showing it, you should, just as a fail safe check it with a feeler gauge.

[@2001himax]

The adjuster is fine threads so i don't think it will move when I lock it down. After I adjust them the way I show, it sounds better and is close enough for me. If it were to move I am holding the stick and would feel and see it move. That is why I use a square stick. Works for me.

[@kuzmikval]

@@2001himax you are guessing, you don't know for sure. anyone who's ever done this using the feeler gauge will tell you the same. and if you are still not convinced, you can refer to a service manual, and be convinced then, that all pros use feeler gauges. there is no disputing it.

[@2001himax]

@@kuzmikval I say on all my videos "This is what works for me". I have worked with close tolerances for 45 years. For me there is no guessing. As I show, I can lift the tappet up and down and tell if it is right. I do eight settings on this bike. Did I just get lucky and set all them right? If you do it different and it works , great. This is the way I do it. Putting the nut and tappet adjuster in the vice and using a dial indicator confirms I know how much to turn the adjuster. The book is right and so am I. Just two ways to get the same results. Norman

[@kuzmikval]

@@2001himax no guessing? close tolerances? you're eye balling it. Don't event speak of close tolerances. I have no problem with the vid, and if it works for you, great. I just wanted to suggest a bit of fail safe quality check, so there is no guessing. would that not make sense? especially where close tolerances are specified/required.

[@antonioriep4614]

Are there any video on how tp change injectors on a boulevard C50

[@2001himax]

Hi Antonio, I looked and found videos on cleaning injectors but none on step by step that would show how to replace them. A clymer book on your bike should show how to do this. I wished when people put up videos on repair they would put step by step, that is why i put the setting the valves step by step on you-tube. Norman

[@twofeathers6540]

im 72 and this is great thinks

[@2001himax]

Thank you so much. I think this video has helped a lot of rider save money. Takes some time but is worth doing. Norman

[@ronaldwebb3145]

One addition, there was no way I was going to get to the inside bolt on the rear intake cover. Took a #10 socket 1/4 in drive, ground it down, then took a hex wrench that would fit in the drive side and cut it off so it would stick out maybe 1/4 in, glued some string and the hex wrench into the socket and then used a #6 wrench to turn the hex wrench and socket. Way easier to then get that inside bolt.

[@2001himax]

Hi Ronald, I think that is why the shops charge so much to do this job.

[@edwinkubena9944]

I know it is a real trick getting those damm valve covers off

[@edwinkubena9944]

I did mine but gave up on using feeler gauges used the J-Paige method it worked. This is the best video for doing this thanks so much!!

[@kuzmikval]

18:39 The way you get the feeler gauge in there is by taking the carb out. fyi

[@thugnasty93]

Carb? What carb?

[@kuzmikval]

i wasn't commenting on your post, that's what carb.. lol

[@bamaboysmith2723]

Thx for the vidoes,my 09 sounds like a mad sewing machine. In just not use to such valve noise..bike has 6k on it..does yours still have valve noise after the adj. Thx. Heath

[@2001himax]

Mine has a little noise. You can watch some of my other videos and hear what it sounds like but my mic is in a full face helmet. Have you done yours? It needs to be done every 15,000 miles. Hopes this helps. Norman

[@bamaboysmith2723]

@@2001himax no not yet..it only has 6k on it..maybe its a normal sound..the cam chains should be on at 6k wouldnt you think?

[@2001himax]

@@bamaboysmith2723 You will be OK. These bikes run with some noise. All my best, Norman

[@bamaboysmith2723]

@@2001himax thank u

[@577buttfan]

Those are some pretty tight thread tolerances.

[@2001himax]

I don't quite understand your meaning. Most setting for tappets are under 10 thousands. The threads on the adjusters are fine threads so they need very little movement to adjust.

[@577buttfan]

Yeah i just meant the threads on those adjusters are very nice to be so consistent.@@2001himax

[@2001himax]

It makes it so much easier than trying to get a feeler gauge in there.@@577buttfan

[@577buttfan]

I have everything exept the caliper mount ill grab that next time I go to HF.My bike has 12k on it and valves are quiet so probably do it end next season.@@2001himax

[@2001himax]

@@577buttfan Sounds great. Be sure to check the small chrome tubes that come off the exhaust engine ports by the exhaust pipes. These are known to burn through . I fixed a bike for another guy that both had holes from being burnt through. I used a small piece of metal and JB Weld. Works great. The two pipes cost over $200 for new ones. Norman.

[@jeromejanci8318]

At what mileage should valve tappets be adjusted...how many miles did you have on your bike before you set the tappets

[@2001himax]

Hi Jerome, I go by the Clymer book. It says ( Check valve clearance ; adjust if necessary every 15,000 miles. I bought my bike used. It was under 15,000 miles so when it had 15,000 miles I set them. Norman.

[@577buttfan]

Was the bike noisier when you where done?

[@2001himax]

When the valves are set correctly the bike tappets sounds like a soft sound of a sewing machine. But this is not the way to judge tappets for each bike may sound a little different. Setting the valves using a feeler gauge or the way I show will insure they are set to the correct gap size.

[@franciscomercado3128]

For a m50 boulevard 2005 valve adjustment number intake 0.08 and exhaust 17 or 0.22 ??can u help me out thank

[@2001himax]

Hi Francisco, Your bike is the same as mine. Intake = 0.08 - 0.13 mm (0.003 - 0.005 in.) Exhaust = 0.17 - 0.22 mm (0.007 - 0.009 in.) Hope this helps you. Norman.

[@thugnasty93]

I have a suzuki boulevard M50 which is the same engine with the same valve clearances. Do I need to buy a dial gauge or can I use the measurement you took and just do the rotation amounts you did to mine or is every tappet different?

[@2001himax]

Hi Nick, I believe your valves would be the same. Mine is a 2012. It would be safe to find the clearance size for your bike to be sure. You could call a dealer and ask them for the clearance size. They may not want to tell you but you can try. What year is your bike? Sent it to me at my E-mail "[e-mail] .I will try to get the answer for you. Norman

[@2001himax]

Nick , I just checked and my Clymer is for Volusia/ Boulevard C50 2001-2011. The M 50 in these years would be the same. Norman

[@thugnasty93]

@@2001himax Not sure if you would be familiar with this but i attempted a valve adjustment and everything went well until i got to the front exhaust valve. The rocker arm won't move and the tappets are hard to remove and I cannot get the thinnest feeler gauge underneath even with the tappets completely removed.

[@2001himax]

@@thugnasty93 , Hi Nick My video shows that I set the valves without a feeler guage. After I am done I do not check them with a feeler guage. It's turning the valve adjustment in or out that determines the gap. My Clymer book is for Volusia/Boulevard C50 2001-2011. My bike is a 2012. When I bought it the 2012 bike was to new to have a Clymer book on it and the dealer said the book I am using will cover the 2012. Nothing had changed. The book shows Intake=.003-.005 In. and Exhaust=.007-.009 In. Using the stick with screw= Intake= turn the screw in just till it touches=no gap- then turn it out 1/8 turn plus just a hair more. 1/8 turn out will give you .003 gap. Adding a hair more will give you about .005 gap, lock it down. Exhaust=Turn it in till it just touches=no gap. Turn it out 1/4 turn that will give you .005 gap. a hair more will give you about .009 in. gap lock it down. No need to check with a feeler guage. Just make sure when you set the valves that the piston is at the top of of the cylinder on the compression stroke. If you have moved the addjuster and are not sure how to set it DO NOT RUN THE BIKE. e-mail me at [e-mail] and I will help you. Norman

[@GrimyDingus]

Why do you have to turn the rotor counter-clockwise?

[@2001himax]

Hi Zack, The Clymer book says to go counter-clockwise and I believe it has to do with the small amount of play in the system due to wear. When you go to a mark and get close to it try not to go past the mark and go back to it by going clockwise. That may put the play into your settings. Norman

[@Mark_Israel]

this isn't the same specs for the vz800 is it? i tried but the feeler gauge doesnt fit after following the suggested degrees... help?

[@2001himax]

I use the Clymer Suzuki Volusia / Boulevard C50 2001-2011 book. My bike is a 2012. The dealer told me that this book is the same for the 2012. If your bike is in these years your tappets are set the same. About the feeler gauge, you can see in the video that I don't use a feeler gauge because I can not get a proper reading with the feeler gauge. If you are not up to doing this job like I do you may want a dealer to do it. I use the square stick to tell how many thousands I am setting the valve clearance. About the degrees, you are talking about where you get the motor on the compression stroke so the valves are closed? You must have the crank shaft in the right position to set the intake valves then turn it to another mark to set the exhaust. That is where I take out the plug to see the marks on the crank. Hope this helps. Norman.

[@Mark_Israel]

@@2001himax Thank you for the reply! I really appreciate it. I was referring to the 90 degree turn with the stick. my .007-.009 feeler would not fit when i tried to check it the the 90 degree and a little more. it took almost a 180 turn... ill try it again and see how it sounds. I will try to get a hold of the Clymer book as well, thanks again! you have helped me a lot!

[@2001himax]

@@Mark_Israel Hi Mark, Look on E-Bay for a book for your bike. The 90 may need a different setting than the 800 Boulevard. When I show taking the tappet adjuster and locknut out and putting it in the vice this is to show that if you turn the tappet 1/4 turn or 90 degrees it will show on the indicator how many thousandth you have turned it. Watch this on the video again. Yours may be different than mine. When you are done adjusting the tappets pull up and down to see if you have some free play. I would not run the bike till you get a book and see what the settings are and set them to that. If they are set too tight and have no free play it could bend the valve stems. Hope this helps. Norman.

[@upfreebird6942]

Can the FT and RT marks be 180° off rotation? I did mine yesterday and when I put it back together, the bike was louder than when I started. Maybe I set them on the exhaust stroke?? Is this possible? Or is the FT and RT always Top Dead Center on the Compression stroke? Please respond.

[@2001himax]

You say that the bike sounds louder, You mean the tappets sound louder?

[@upfreebird6942]

@@2001himax Yes. Come to find out that if you just go by the timing marks of FT and RT,.. that you have a 50% chance of being correct. You need to actually look at the valve rockers themselves and make sure that both of them are in the up/closed position. I started to re-do the valves yesterday. Got 2 of the 4 done. The other 2 I will do after work today. I'll check back in to let ya know how it sounds.

[@2001himax]

@@upfreebird6942 You got it. So glad it's working out for you. Make some notes on how you did it so next time it will be easier for you. Let me know when you get it done. Norman.

[@upfreebird6942]

@@2001himax Lessons learned: RT and FT line up on both the Compression Stroke AND the Exhaust Stroke. While both of them have the piston at Top Dead Center, you need to be on the COMPRESSION Stroke to adjust the valve tappets. Both the intake and exhaust valves are closed when on the Compression Stroke. I must have set it on the exhaust stroke the first time.

[@2001himax]

@@upfreebird6942 If you ran the bike how did it sound?.

[@577buttfan]

Do you have to measure each tappet or are they all the same pretty much?

[@2001himax]

All intake valves must be .003 to .005 thousands of an inch and all exhaust have to be .007 to .009 If you are not sure of doing this I would not do it. You may want to get someone that can set them for you. If set wrong it could damage the motor. Norman

[@577buttfan]

@@2001himax I was talking about the threads.All four should be .007 for quarter turn.Or in other words do we have to check each individual tappet in the vise with caliper or are they consistently the same? I'm sure they are pretty damn close.

[@2001himax]

@@577buttfan I understand, All the threads are the same. Glad I could clear that up for you. Man winter is here. Light snow on the ground and 25 degrees out.

[@577buttfan]

@@2001himax Thanks brother,I got this bike at the wrong time I did lol appreciate everything you do for us man!! God bless!

[@2001himax]

All my best to you and your family. Norman.

[@bamaboysmith2723]

My bike only has 6k on her but on cold starts there is so much noise. Do u think it could be valves out of spec?

[@2001himax]

Hi Bama, Does the sound lesson as it warms up? If not I would set the valves. Norman

[@bamaboysmith2723]

@@2001himax yes it does get alot better as it warms up. Maybe the 20w-50 oil is to thick?

[@2001himax]

@@bamaboysmith2723 I use Mobil One 10 W 40 in mine. That could be why it makes noise when cold. Let me know if that is it.

[@bamaboysmith2723]

@@2001himax do u use the full synthetic oil?

[@2001himax]

@@bamaboysmith2723 Yes, Another thing is break fluid. Most cars use " dot 3". The break fluid for the front break on my bike uses "dot 4". Dot 4 is a synthetic fluid. Norman

[@BPaul-hk2jh]

Dont take out the tapper or completely remove the locknut. Just loosen the locknut. Use a feeler guage. Use a screwdriver to adjust the screw. Retighten the locknut. This video makes things overly complicated.

[@2001himax]

I took out the tappet to show what you would be dealing with and how to check the amount of movement with one turn of the adjuster. It's geared to the person that has never done it before. Seems to work for a lot of bikers.

[@franciscomercado3128]

Facts is easy work and this guy make everything looks to hard is a simple adjustment nothing crazy

[@joeyswallow9577]

Can anyone help me with the timing on a C50 Boulevard 2005 I don't know how to set it

[@2001himax]

Joey , Are you talking about placing the timing mark so you can set the valves ?

[@joeyswallow9577]

@@2001himax I put new pistons and rings in it and now I don't know how to set the timing

[@2001himax]

www.google.com/search?q=suzuki+marauder+vz+800-ponto+motor&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS910US910&oq=suzuki+marauder+vz+800-ponto+motor+&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i546l2j0i30i546l2.53394j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:57809cc3,vid:fQOY3T57nw4 Tony. I found it !!! Watch this video and he shows the timing marks. Make sure you turn the motor counterclockwise. He turns it till you see the R-T in the timing hole. Line up the line in the middle of the hole with the line on the outer part of the hole. Then you will see him show the mark on the cam and the arrow on the cam is in line with the top of the motor. After that turn the motor to the F-T , line the F-T line with the hole line. Put the cam on the front cylinder arrow in line with the top of the motor as he shows. The R-T stands for rear cylinder top dead center. The F-T is front cylinder top dead center. When you have either cylinder at top dead center you can set the tappets for that cylinder. Hope this helps. Let me know how you make out. After you have these set turn the motor over very slowly and line the marks in the hole once more and check the cams marks. Norman

[@2001himax]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6HOqn9vgNJ0j5Y Also watch this video. Norman.

[@rados8993]

Need to be oil out ?

[@2001himax]

No, You can leave the oil in the bike.

[@rados8993]

THX

[@2ride_along]

Why can’t you two nuts? one of them would be a locking nut the other would set the height. The locking nut could be thinner than the height one.

[@2001himax]

You could do that but the one nut locks it down fine. That is the way it is designed.

[@SuperCyril2]

Pull the motor out of bike. Makes the job much easier.

[@2001himax]

Once you set the valves the next time it go a little quicker but takes time. Sure wish there was a better way.

[@SuperCyril2]

@@2001himax Yeah. Its not that difficult. Its the limited space to work that makes it a pain in the butt.