2002 H.O. Down for the Count. No Fuel Pressure! Blown VP44?

[@VBELTandSON]

04.5 switch the tank pump. Factory common rail lift pump was 8psi. Smarty on the 04 sucked the pressure to nothing on a full rip.

[@bobbyjfarms3681]

@VBELTandSON pretty curious on the fleece setup actually. Especially on an 04.5+ where the factory wiring is already back there.

[@Moose400ex]

I’m a FASS believer till the end. Fass or dog there both the basic same thing, small Little differences to argue about. I like the FASS and have never had any issues. Nothing. I like that the FASS has an optional probe heaters that thread into the block/ manifold body of the fass pumps itself, to heat fuel for ultra cold climates. I’m in Colorado. On the western slope where it’s a bit warmer now, but it still gets cold in Gunnison in the mtns, like -30 lol. That optional dual probe heater kit is pretty trick, just thread it in and plug em in to the harness. Real simple. They just thermostatically controlled. I like to run the Bigger larger CAT Filters. They have a better concreting than a generic Napa gold or csrquest blue or a Baldwin or what ever. The only other thing I’ll run is a WIX filter. Plus it looks cool it the big yellow CAT filters hanging down so everyone can see the yellow color and the CAT logos lol. All the stock stuff under the hood I threw in the trash. Full delete, I even took off the factory steel fuel lines along the frame, it wasn’t easy but they came off in sections and pieces haha lol. Removing all the factory OE stuff under the hood frees up a lot of space and really cleans and unclutters the motor. You can darn near get to your starter from the topside when you remove all the OE fuel filter housing and OE junk Carter pump. The problem Is was with them OE Carter pumps is they would get hot and then they wouldn’t flow as much. They get weak and can’t keep up. The VP 44 needs constant unrestricted uninterrupted flow of cool Clean fuel to stay cool. Anything below 10 psi and you’re asking for a vp44 death code. If you’ve installed any type of tuner or done any fueling upgrades the a FASS is an absolute must. I did a sump. A sump is so simple and easy. You don’t even got to drop the tank. Go with one of the dual port dumps like the one from Beans diesel! You can use that secound port for the fuel return, and then you won’t have to put the t fitting in the filler neck for the fuel return. OR! You can do the filler neck return line and use the 2nd port on the sump as a fuel ‘line-in’ from an AUX tank in the bed!!! Run a line from your pumper tank with red diesel in it to that 2nd port and it’ll gravity feed in. As the fuel level drops in the main OE tank, fuel will trickle and flow in from the aux tank. Simple out a peacock shot off valve in line, reach under there and turn it on/off if when yiu either want it or don’t want it to flow. Pretty trick if you ask me. I’m looking at putting a smallish 35 gal AUx tank in the bed on my ‘02 and doing that, feeding the fuel into the 2nd port on my sump and letting it just gravity feed. That’d be cool for a road trip, have that extended range from an additional 35 gallons and now having to stop and fill up or pump from one tank in the bed into the trucks OE tank. Less chance of fuel contamination to. Come California and their ‘green diesel’ everything’s gotta be ‘green’ and earth friendly in California. You can be ‘GREEN’ Bobby J! Start running waste motor oil! Secoundbgen vp44 pumps love and will run really good on waste motor oil, used transmission fluid and waste veggie oil! There’s specific things and ways you gotta do it, and how you want to filter it down and dilute it with diesel, you dilute the used motor oil like 50/50, just it with half red diesel. If that’s even a thing in California?! Tax free red ‘off-road diesel’?! Is that a thing in commie corona? The tax capital of the world? I wouldn’t be surprised if they even taxed ‘red diesel fuel’ hahaha. Colorado is a free for all still, especially in the small towns. Lot of cattle ranchers and stuff. They got red fuel at the pump here in Gunnison CO. The truck is to just go fill up on a Sunday evening, swipe your card and pay at the pump, and fill up trucks OE tank to after you top off your pumper tanks! lol everyone does it. I had a 1984 VW rabbit ‘caddy truck’ 4 cylinder non turbo diesel that I converted to run on used waste oil. With it being the caddy truck and having the factory VW hard topper shell that was the perfect place to put the e 30 gal aux tank with a heater in it. Plumbed up a separate gas system for the waste oil weather it be used motor oil, atf or waste veggie oil I was running. With a separate fass system I could start it on normal diesel and get it operating to temp, while the in tank heater heated up the waste oil, then flip a switch and it would start running on the filtered waste oil! 60mpg uphill/ into the wind all day long! Purred like a Little kitten. With its little 1” tail pipe it’d roll coal! Then when you were done driving before you shut down you’d flip a switch and switch it back over to normal diesel and purge all the lines and the injection system of any waste oil so nothing would get clogged or gel up on you if everything cooled down or the weather was cold. The system always got purged of waste oil before shut down. It was trick! It was neat having a separate little 90gph FASS system. There great products, every diesel truck or diesel engine should have one. Again vp44 trucks it’s a must have, it’s cheap insurance it really is. On these newer diesel trucks with all these cp4 injections pumps failing and causing $15,000 repair bills. It can all be prevented! With a FASS system! Well the cp4 thing is a combination of several things, but not having adequate fuel flow to the injection pump is one of the issues. The old first gen rotary VE pumps and the p7100 pumps were harmed by a lack of fuel flow, they’d just fall on their face, or couldn’t hurt anything internally. The vp44 pumps will burn up if they don’t get the cool clean fuel. The newer cp3 pumps on the common rails , they can suck fuel up to it if they need to and aren’t harmed by a lack of fuel flow. The newest cp4 pumps are the worst and not only do they suck at sucking the fuel up to themself, they also blow up and then send all that metal shavings and contaminats back thru the entire fuel system and back to the tank, it wipes out the injectors, all the lines have to be replaced, the long fuel lines have to be flushed and the fuel tank removed and flushed and clean, it can be like a $15,000 ordeal all said and done if things aren’t done to protect it. A cp3 conversion is highly recommended! No special programming or tuning required! Typically a 100gph FASS system is good for up to 600hp a 165gph sister is good for 600-1000hp. Now the bigger 165gph pump is only $50 more than the 100gph pump, I went with the bigger one, it leaves you ‘room to grow’ is how I justified it. They make even bigger pumps, I think they make like a 265 gph pump. That’d be using in 2000+ hp applications and Marine applications where your running dual motors or something. Check out the dual probe heater kits for the fass systems if you live in a cold climate. It’s super trick! As far as deleting all the stuff under the hood, it’s simple, remove it all and toss in garbage. You’ll need a block off plate for a 2nd gen. The 2nd gen blocks still have the mechanical fuel pump hole in the block, like the first gen’s used a mechanical lift pump. But on the 24v’s there’s no line on the cam. They didn’t do away with the hole in the block till 2003 on the 3rd gen common rails. Block off plates are cheap, you can do a fancy billet aluminum machined one from several companies and they cost like $100 or more or you can get the cheap $9 version at any auto parts store! MR. gasket part number: 1516 it’s for a chrome block off Plate! Fits Chevy big block and Cummins motors! It’s the same mech fuel pump block off plate at big block Chevy uses! Cheap and any auto parts store usually in stock! Comes with gasket but use red also! That’ll get rid of the ugly bracket that’s on the side of the block that holds the OE Carter lift pump. The bracket actually blocks off the older style mech lift pump Hole. Haha!

[@muzzy24v89]

The factory color matched sport tails look so much better.

[@georgeenriquez612]

That’s a cool dually pickup

[@danielmorris-ruckett913]

Cheveron still carries potroleum diesel at most of its locations in Cali. R 99 is renewable diesel # 99 Cetane rating. It is different from B20 biodiesel. Full drop in fuel. Been getting better torque and lubricity and its my go to now. Will still fill up on potroleum chevron. Or potroleum diesel at truck stops. Never noticed any stank from R99 at least as much as regular potroleum. But then I guess smells are in the nose of the beholder. After all Ive gotten odd looks when Ive told others that the smell of gasoline is kinda nice

[@bobbyjfarms3681]

@@danielmorris-ruckett913 r99 stands for renewable 99% ingredients. I don't like r99. I've noticed no power increase, only a loss of efficiency. We are burning 10-20% more fuel per hour now.

[@danielmorris-ruckett913]

@bobbyjfarms3681 Fair enough. I get R99 diesel #2 at Arco and as much as I can. I get as much increase in efficiency as you stated your losing leading to a notable increase in better mpg. Not sure how much blend difference is across green diesel albeit I know the cetane rating varies across distributors with 76 having their own marketed renewable diesel blend which has a drop in cetane rating from Arcos. I have also tried out propels HPRD blend. And I can definitely tell you it gave a performance and my truck never ran so butter smooth as ever before. Now I will say this. Renewable is more viscous then petroleum diesel. While it gives it better qualities in hotter environments. It may also make it more difficult in older trucks with less injected pressure than the modern high pressure electronic common rails use.

[@georgeenriquez612]

All that noise you heard driving by sounded like a young kid with their straight pipe Cummins with their big exhaust tip and bro wheels

[@bobbyjfarms3681]

@georgeenriquez612 damn kid, Stay off my lawn

[@cwg1998]

I prefer the air dog 165 i always carry extra filters in the tool box that way i get bad fuel or whatever i can just take off the filters and use the pump to suck the tank out and slap new filters on and back to work

[@koolkeith8908]

160000 MILES and 19 YRS??? Dude lol.

[@bobbyjfarms3681]

@@koolkeith8908 not bad huh

[@Moose400ex]

Dude, I just over 100k on my 2002 HO 24v 6 speed. I bought it 9 years ago from the first owner with only 79,000 miles on it. It took me 9 years to put only 20,000 miles on it. And I think I maybe changed the oil 12 times prolly, I put my fass system on at 80k right after I got the truck home and I’ve changed fuel filters more times than I can count. Filters are cheap dude, heh especially when you work somewhere that has an entire store room full of every kind of fuel filter, and oil filter you could ever need. Nice good expensive CAT filters! And a bulk 15 40 tank! I’ll change my oil For the fun of it just to flush it out. And I’ve done that before. Ran an extra 24 quarts of bulk 15 40 thru it. I’d fill it up, let it run for a few mins, and then drain it again. Fill It 12 ATs, let it run for a few mins then drain it. Got all that old black oil that lingers around and doesn’t drain out from a simple oil Change! Draining out oil and Adding ATF to your oil or some cans of Seafoam will really clean everything out!

[@WillTheThrill21]

Oh NO!! First!

[@scottapple2836]

Like your videos not sure as good as vbelt but close lol