2004-2009 Toyota Sienna Right Passenger CV Axle Replacement | DIY Car Diagnoses and Repairs

[@danpayne3880]

Great video, I am glad you kept your struggles in the video and didn't edit it out for video length.

[@davidhimmelsbach557]

I'm glad I caught you just in time. The trick is back there at the 14mm (M10-1.25) bolt that appears to be useless -- in the bearing carrier. Pull it out, pull out its plastic 'button' which rides underneath it. Now, you have two options. Squirt grease into the bolt hole -- then run the original bolt back in to pack grease into the carrier-bearing rust zone; repeat, repeat, repeat. Give it heat and time... the grease will flow like penetrating oil. Option Two: Grind the tip of a High Strength L O N G (M10-1.25) bolt into a point. Now, slowly, with lubrication, tighten this puppy down until it shatters the outer race of the bearing. You may have to back off and repeat the pressure. Once broken, shoot the carrier with penetrating fluid -- something silly. Now the usual pulling techniques will work -- without much further ado. Thank me later.

[@jestep9]

Great video. The Toyota deal told me they had no clue how the right side axle was held into that nuckle bracket. You’ve done me a big favor!

[@jesussavessinners123]

Thank you, very helpful. I was able to get if loose in less than a minute using a $15 air hammer and chisel from harbor freight, it was actually very easy to do. You can find other videos on youtube on how to do it, will save you lots of time. Hope this helps anyone.

[@APBRAeruDOD]

I found it easier to use an air hammer on the inner side pushing out to get it loose. The rest of the way to truly remove it, I just used a prybar against the inside where the retainer clip is, just push that whole cylinder outwards and poof, no need to remove all that other stuff.

[@jmbuga]

I was able to get it out a little differently I was able to get all three screws out of the bracket using an open end wrench and a 2nd wrench on the most difficult one. Then I used a slide hammer and puller and pulled the axle away from the transmission and then turned the bracket around and pulled the bracket out of the car with the old axle. Once I did this we did apply some heat and were able to remove the axle from the bracket. What a pain. Didn't quite have to take apart as much as you did. So it is possible to remove the bracket still attached to the axle. I am not sure that I would have been able to get it out other wise.

[@jiminyfixit1688]

Thank you. Three other vids did not show the actual clip, bolt, and difficulty in removing.

[@ValleyMobileAutomotive]

You're welcome! Glad this video was helpful. Hopefully yours comes out a little easier than this one.

[@georgekopsias9159]

Thanks for the video. It was super helpful to me.

[@leepatterson4435]

Thank you for the video, very helpful. Is there a trick to getting the large C clip/snap ring on the bearing bracket? I've got the axle in place just struggling with that snap ring. Thanks!

[@armandopina7712]

great video!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thank you!!!! the blow torch definitely helped.

[@flywithjordanparagliding]

Thanks buddy, cool that you mentioned torque specs 🤟

[@ValleyMobileAutomotive]

Hey Jordan, thanks. Glad this video was helpful 👍

[@aubreygregory3849]

your video is great thanks for your expert help

[@aquamancrow]

I just found your videos (Speed Sensor, Sienna CV Axle, and Subaru P0420)! Great videos! Thanks for working on these vehicles without a lift since most DIYers don't have access to one. We get to see how you handle access problems under the vehicle.

[@sweettooth4527]

Great video awesome content thank you keep it Coming 👍

[@ValleyMobileAutomotive]

Thanks!

[@armchairtin-kicker503]

In a similar vodcast, someone commented that using a sawzall with something like a Diablo blade makes quick work of such a project, allowing one to unbolt the CV axle bearing carrier from the vehicle, after splitting the axle on each side of the carrier, and then pressing-out the remnants of the axle once dismounted.

[@jayrenner1053]

Flat blade of a pneumatic hammer set on the metal just inside the carrier bearing ( from the transmission side facing out) and let it rip. A 3 to 10 minute job. PB blaster pre-soak helps.

[@ValleyMobileAutomotive]

Yeah air hammers are great! I've been waiting for a battery powered impact hammer... who knows maybe they'll come out with one.

[@davidhimmelsbach557]

I ran across the Air Hammer Vibration technique. Google cv axle Toyota Sienna 2015 here on YT. In short, one applies vibration perpendicular to the axle -- upon the carrier, itself. After 50-seconds, the bearing-axle assembly will 'walk' out of the carrier. (!) You ought to view the YT showing it -- be sitting down when you do so.

[@WorkForce-q7q]

Thank you. Very helpful

[@go-to-H2O]

Great explanation! Would a 2010 be much different?

[@jamesd2289]

Did any fluid drain when u pulled the axle out?? Mine didnt

[@ValleyMobileAutomotive]

I don't think so. Usually very little fluid comes out of Toyotas. It's still a good idea to check fluid level after replacement 👍

[@jamesd2289]

@@ValleyMobileAutomotive i was gonna flush mine and put new oil in. There is no dip stick,

[@twentyonehertz]

Pb presoak and air hammer, 10 minutes to get that bearing out. Now on reinstall, the metal cap at the transmission side of the axle won’t sit flush against it…

[@chilitoday]

Good video. Pretty thorough with details. Some videos do not include details such as torque.

[@bcjycrt]

Thank you for all the info. Although you may have to get a wheel alignment after removing the hub from the strut.

[@ValleyMobileAutomotive]

Yep, It's never a bad idea to get the alignment checked after messing around with suspension components 👍

[@Gaspumperman]

Very helpful I do thanks for the details

[@ValleyMobileAutomotive]

Thanks David. Glad this video was helpful 👍

[@richpuzzo953]

I just did mine on a 2003 sienna. Everything I was warned about came up. I had to resort to removing the exhaust, cutting a piece out of the axle between the bearing and the transmission. It didn't just pop out either when I started beating on it with a 3 lb. Hammer. I kept spraying it down with penetrating fluid and finally in the morning the axle popped out of the carrier with the bearing. The rust that had built up around the bearing was a real surprise. Not a good look for Toyota.

[@gerardogarcia52]

What is part number on slide hammer 😊

[@abuwarith1]

How much would you charge for thos job

[@JackRapiport]

Did these a few times, nothing will help to take it out of the carrier bracket, u can bang with heavy hammer until tommorow, will not budge, only a longer screw to force it in were the 14mm that u removed, it will break apart that ring and all the balls will fall out and then u can get it out

[@cndvd]

I thought that bearing is pressed in to that bracket, right ? You have to take off the bracket (bearing) with the axle then press it out after you get it out together. Then press in the new one with the axle. That’s what I paid my friend to do. Take to the machine shop to press it out. That’s what he did.

[@ValleyMobileAutomotive]

That's a good suggestion for those without access to a slide hammer or in my case a torch. They aren't pressed in, the snap ring and bolt on the bottom holds it in. Over time corrosion makes them seize into the bracket.

[@cndvd]

@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Oh I see. My friend did mine awhile back. I did my Driver side cv axle yesterday (so I watched your videos). Could not get the axle out, but luckily Auto Zone had this pickle fork to get it out, I was just barely able to pop it out. Thanks for the videos, it helped me plan for the job.

[@ValleyMobileAutomotive]

@@cndvd Glad you got it 👍. Those rental tools are very convenient.

[@karlmurphy402]

Why no mention of seal in transmission

[@ValleyMobileAutomotive]

Good point, It would be a good opportunity to change out the seal since you are in the. I believe I mention it in the other video when I do the driver side. This transmission was rebuilt a year before the axles were replaced so there wasn't a need to replace them again.

[@Jerguu]

​@@ValleyMobileAutomotive ​Hey there, about to do this repair, what would this seal be called exactly? Output shaft seal?

[@notiratskie8955]

Mine will not come out at all.. I mean slide hammer, torch, hit from the other side .. im dead .. it will not budge

[@sdriza]

how'd you get it out? I had same issue - bought the Big Chief airhammer from Harbor Freight.... made short work (AFTER I had literally cut shaft in hal

[@notiratskie8955]

@@sdriza cut the axle with a Sawzall on both sides and unbolt the bracket. Then I used a ball joint press to press out the leftover axle in the bracket. I watched a video on a guy who did that on his lexus. Which found out they have the same frame style. ( lexus) . Took me 30 mins that way rather then trying the other stuff for 6 hours and nothing worked.. (Chicago weather ruins everything.)

[@fastgolfr32]

If the carrier bearing is good, I just rebuild from the inner C/V housing out to the axle nut. Might have even broke down a new axle and popped the assembly in. So much easier and quicker. Again, as long as that carrier bearing is intact.

[@Ken-zr8fl]

@@fastgolfr32 That's what I did.

[@Ken-zr8fl]

That's what I did.

[@billmiller9942]

I used a torch to heat the carrier and it came out much easier no slide hammer reqd

[@ValleyMobileAutomotive]

I think if you have heat that's the best way to go 👍

[@azharhussain2608]

He is fighting with his tools,best & easy way is just remove 3 bolts from bracket

[@thunderroad7289]

Crappy design by Toyota……. Living in the northeast that bearing can really get hard to remove. Have to use heat and air hammer to get that junk design out

[@themarchhare1376]

Why is it that nobody in any of these videos explains where the clip goes back on. The little C-clamp looking thing that we had to pop off to get it out. And why does nobody mention the fact that a lot of times transmission fluid is going to drain out so you need to be prepared for that as well. These KZbin videos suck and I don't mean just yours