How to Replace Front Passenger CV Axle Shaft 02-17 Toyota Camry Sedan

1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace broken, worn, or vibrating CV axles. This video is applicable to 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 Toyota Camry
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

[@1AAuto]

√ *Watch the Video* √ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto √ *Do it Yourself* √ *Save Money*

[@HMFIndonesia]

Do you have the part number 43410-06590 for Toyota Camry Asia acv40 2.4cc 2008.? If you have, please give me the link

[@JoseGonzalez-ed4hq]

So is there a transmission seal on the passenger side too ?

[@paulnavara7127]

This was one of the most difficult repairs I've seen on 1A Auto parts and one I would never do myself. The mechanic in the video is one patient and cool guy- not a cuss word during the whole procedure. Nice work!

[@vincentchirafisi8803]

Even when the job goes smooth Ill total up about a dozen cuss words and a dozen nice gut cleaning burps to boot! That's the makings of a good job!

[@harryl8234]

That what try he did wrong. He should have a little. It always worked for me.

[@JasonLee-lv7tm]

Ez job

[@handymangamer238]

This is probably the worst case scenario, usually its not that difficult! I did it on my cars multiple times! Also he could've made his life easier by just buying new bearing bracket, its not that expensive. Also, instead of going through all that hassle, since he is replacing the axle, I would've cut the damn thing!

[@jayosiris8944]

Nah not even close to being difficult

[@Jumabay]

You make this job very hard. 1. You don’t need to release link 2. You don’t need to release outer rod 3. You don’t need to release lower ball joint Once people watch it they start to think it’s hell of a hard job

[@nyw1089]

Great video, just did my 07 V6 Camry and here are some additional tips: A slide hammer can be rented at parts stores to pull the carrier bearing out without removing the "bearing pedestal". However, if it is that difficult to remove, you may find yourself unable to get the new one in, and that bearing MUST seat all the way in - if it doesn't, you will leave the dust cover compromised on your transaxle seal. No matter how much grease I used, I could not get the new carrier bearing to fully seat, so, I bought a new bearing pedestal...what a difference! Went in like a hot knife through butter. I would plan on buying the new pedestal - it will save you from hammering on the new one -to fit, which is not a great idea. Thanks again for the video

[@wheelhorseman2306]

I tried that first; only wish it was that easy. The bearing support pedestal on my 2004 4 cylinder Camry is a tapered casting, so the slide hammer hook simply will not slide onto the shaft, even though it is perfectly sized to slide over the axle itself. That's why you need to try using the board/chisel/pry bar on that iron piece of the half-shaft instead. But, just like this guy's axle, mine wouldn't slide out because the bearing was too rusted "welded" inside the bearing support, so it has to be pulled off and pressed out. Like Penguin545 said, the shaft binds in the transaxle when you slide the bearing support off those pins, so installing a new axle seal is probably prudent.

[@Penguin545]

This video helped me a ton- I’d suggest anyone who even thinks this looks rusty to buy a new snap ring and consider doing the axle seal while you’re in there. I had to use a lot of Emory cloth to clean up the housing for the bearing pedestal plus some grease and even then it took some persuasion with a dead blow. Make sure you put an axle nut on the threads before whacking your axle to seat it. Btw I ended up unbolting the pedestal- it binds up trying to pry it away from the block to clear the two little steel roll pins but it’s possible with patience and a second pair of hands.

[@peterjeffery8495]

I just had a new CV Shaft installed on my 04 Toyota Sienna. After watching this video and others like it I am confident that the $148 I spent on shop labor was a very good investment.

[@g3moe]

Well done. Nicely shot and does not contain any of the expletives we spouted during our repair. This worked on our 2005 Sienna except the nightmare center axle bearing mount bolt placement is different. We were unable to free the bearing from the mount after a wrestling match with the retainer ring. The bearing becomes rusted-in not allowing the axle to be pulled out (just like in this video). The difference is that their is three bolts for the bearing mount on the Sienna, two on the top by the alignment pins, and one on the bottom which can be loosened but not removed as it is obstructed by the axle shaft itself. We ended up using a cut-off wheel on a 4.5 inch angle grinder to cut the axle between the transmission and the bearing mount.

[@jamesfarmer2748]

had to do the same thing on a Solara that was totally seized in the bearing. it couldn't be unbolted with the shaft in place.

[@enqiaofan]

why not just install bracket first, then slide in the axle smoothly. By the way. There is no need to remove the bracket. Axle can be removed from bracket by hammer and chisel and WD-40, even though it is stuck with rust.

[@Trentfully]

I love that you showed all the problems and problem solving! My projects pretty much always go this way... 1000 problems you run into that you didnt expect. Great vid!

[@1AAuto]

+Trentfully Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com

[@yarrlegap6940]

@@1AAuto ... excellent video - and I'm glad you included all the problems you had with removing the old junk - I've hours on that part trying to find solutions to taking everything apart. ... One thing though that's missing (just for future videos) ... is how did you know this part was the problem? That may be obvious to experts like you guys, but to a backyard fair weather jack of all trades - master of nothing - like me ... I spend a lot of time trying to figure out the problem. Anyway, excellent job on the video.

[@mikehawk9714]

Thank you for posting this. I did this job at home and could not have done it without this video. Also got the part from 1aauto. Thank you.

[@alejandrotapia6176]

Awesome instructions. I will be venturing into this project next week. Seems simple enough. Thanks for the upload

[@alanbobowicz141]

Thank you for showing what really happens when your undercarriage has rust. I had a trans shop in north Jersey- salt, snow, and water cause havoc under your car!! Great video

[@timothywilliams345]

I'm sorry, but I think this video is awesome! Every problem he ran into was exactly my experience, and his solutions were what I needed! Thank you 1A Auto!

[@davidhimmelsbach557]

The Car Care Nut -- a Toyota veteran tech -- advises to just avoid R&R the trans-axle. Instead, he simply pulls the old half-axle out of the cage -- the gadget that holds the 'spider' -- cutting the inner CV boot to do so. Then he inspects the condition of the trans-axle -- the piece that runs from the transmission on out through the troublesome bearing and carrier -- to see if it's okay. It usually is. If the seal is sweet, if the trans-axle is sweet he simply cleans out the cage -- a filthy job -- but a pretty quick one -- something that does not require a lift -- and removes the CV boot band on the new half-axle -- taking it apart at the cage. This gives him new components to replace what is ruined. He greases up the original cage -- big time -- with Toyota factory grease (it comes in bags) and guides the new half-axle into place. Then he simply -- at the end -- re-bands the CV boot over this connection. (The new half-axle is a perfect match to the old one. CCN is using Toyota factory parts.) All of the above goes drastically faster than playing around with the trans-axle -- which almost never fail in service... even as they are rust-bound. The rust nightmare shown here is ultra-typical -- even outside the rust belt. Professionals claim that's it's common for such jobs to run L O N G because of rust freezing the trans-axle bearing in place. When I re-axled my Toyota, I pulled the strut bolts (22mm) and the control arm, (17mm) instead. I placed the caliper & rotor aside -- bungee corded. The axle is then easy-peasy to pull out. I changed my seal -- which I should not have done. That was more time consuming than swapping the axle! When you don't have a lift, it's brutal to work under the belly of your car. When rust is the issue -- just pre-plan -- buy new/refurbished components. Most of this stuff is very inexpensive. The typical DIYer just can't pull off such difficult work -- as a lift is essential.

[@davidhimmelsbach557]

DIYers should stay out of 'the parts salvage business.' You win with your free labor -- but you're behind the eight-ball when it comes to professional tools, lifts, etc. So, pay-up for replacement parts at every turn. Inspect for rust well before scheduling a tear-down. Where rust is obvious, figure on total replacement of this or that -- and order what you need. You will over-order. But that's small change against a rapid job, a safe job, a job well done. Rust even defeats professionals. BTW, if you've got the time, lay on Naval Jelly... days ahead of time. It dissolves rust. (Wear gloves, PPE) It takes days for Naval Jelly to really do its thing -- but the end result is remarkable. It works wonders on exposed threads -- where you can lay it on. It works where you can apply it repeatedly -- and give it time. Chemically, it actually eliminates rust. It's not like penetrating oils. It will not work as fast. These lubricate rust -- they don't make it go away. Rust seizes steel fasteners because it increases the size of the steel -- at the atomic level. Naval Jelly reverses this -- actually makes the components shrink -- at the atomic level. It's too slow for professional mechanics. They can't wait. A DIYer can. Naval Jelly is available all over -- and is not expensive.

[@rpmfoto]

Great job with this. One of the best that I’ve seen. Unfortunately didn’t find it until after I finished the same job!

[@twatripp]

SAWZALL with carbide blade worked for me. Stuck stuck stuck. Bought the carbide blade and cut the axle about 3 inches from bearing on transaxle side. Pulled the axle out of trans. Hit the stub from the bearing 5 times with 2 pound hammer and out it came.

[@unebonnevie]

Thanks for the vid! I really like the actions shown, e.g., taking out the tough nuts, etc., rather than just saying "OK, that tough nut is now taken out!"

[@sergiotrevino6422]

Thanks for showing all the difficulties when doing this type of job cause it is never as easy as it looks until you do it. Thanks again for explanation and camera views.

[@liberty4175]

I think is much easier doing it with the car on a lift.

[@michaelsimon3493]

Thanks 2003 TOYOTA CAMRY. Great video. Hey people be aware that there are dowls between the axle bearing support and the block. You must pry the bearing support away from the block to get the axle out of the transmission.

[@SquillyMon]

I began laughing in earnest around 17:37... Oh my...my, my, my...so many funny things happening in this video. I do sincerely appreciate it Sir, nice work

[@candymr2]

the time you took pressing that cv shaft and cleaning the bracket, you were better off buying a new bracket

[@JayJay-jx2np]

I think it’s more for third world countries where labor is cheaper.

[@johncarey9005]

Thank you for the info as I have to do this also. But no lift or press. Very impressed with design of sway bar links. Will buy my parts from you as the quality appears superior. Thank the mechanic for excellent explanation and difficulty we all encounter. -JLC

[@Mrico2331]

This guy working on the car makes everything harder than what it is work smart not hard

[@khylbrogo5434]

As a Chevy truck guy all I have to say is OMFG. Took me an hour to change both fronts on my truck.

[@hoagiewhap1006]

I love how the hardest part on getting those hard to reach bolts on the bracket where NOT shown🤦🏾‍♂️ only helped me get stuck really

[@CoryFugger]

Man I feel that. I couldn’t get my bracket off either, I had to spend 8 hours smacking the Bearing out. It ended up taking me two days. You end up gettin it done?

[@hoagiewhap1006]

Nope had to jerry rig the car back together and limp it to the closest shop, but hey the job was basically 40% done so they charged me for just about half the labor😂😂🤷🏾‍♂️ best video ever man

[@bimbi1946]

I am glad you used hand tools. Most people do this in their garage. Thank you, lots. I will start my channel soon!!!!

[@1AAuto]

+Bimbi Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com

[@charlesclark9627]

These videos are good for even non mechanical people to understand how you car works and what can go wrong. And what mechanic is doing to fix. I have done some of these type repair except for the front drive. I've done front end including ball joints and tie- rods!.

[@chadsmobilemechanics]

When in doubt, torch it... Apply heat / torch THEN use on vice w/ sledge 🔧⚒

[@alwedworth]

Real World Repair.. Sometimes it's a tad problematic....Great Video. Thanks!

[@JeresCorner]

Very appreciative for this video and mostly the extreme effort put into using common hand tools. It's really frustrating when you make a video for common home mechanics using tools that most shops don't even have available.

[@gwats19577]

Nicely done..I forgot about those replacement sway bar links...I'll buy a set before I start the replacement.

[@wintercoder6687]

This is exactly the video I was looking for. Well done!

[@1AAuto]

+Winter Coder Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

[@DanielJaegerFilms]

Save yourself a lot of time and get that bearing bracket red hot with a cutting torch, then it will pop right out! I just did this job on a 2002 V6 Camry. The bearing was seized tight in the bracket. You cannot remove the bracket with the axle in place as the bottom 14mm bolt is obstructed by the axle shaft. So I heated the bracket with a cutting torch until it was red hot. A few yanks on the pry bar and some air hammering and it popped right out. Saved a ton of time.

[@1AAuto]

+@DanielJaegerFilms Thanks for the feedback!

[@bobright123]

Excellent video! I have same task ahead of me on 2002 Camry SE V6. This video will help! Thank you!

[@1AAuto]

Thank you for the feedback! +bob right

[@skiphardstuff7444]

Excellent examples! Quality Specific Performance implementation.. bravo..

[@syzygyd5851]

Always informative videos!. Only issues I saw were re-using a bent snap ring that was clearly corroded, and inside of the bearing block was corroded. Did you all check that the area inside the bearing block where the outer race seats wasn't pitted/damaged from the task? would you recommend that?

[@jonnyboat2]

Dude, that was a good video. When I have to do my passenger side shaft, I'll hose the parts down with penetrant a week ahead of time or just take it to a mechanic. In addition to some grease for that saddle, I'd coat it with antiseize and hope it doesn't all scrape off when you pound the axle through it.

[@MrWhite2222]

Thank you so much for this video, going to help tremendously :)

[@1AAuto]

+Josh B Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

[@irishnomad1673]

I replaced an axle just yesterday on a 2015 Camry...passenger side. I didn't have to touch the sway bar link or the outer tie rod. Just remove the strut bolts and pull down. Same result.

[@chrisshadow49]

Before you replaced the part did your car shake under acceleration?

[@alfanydiaz8095]

Thanks for the video man. i could suggest once the pedestal is out of the cv axle go ahead and install that one piece first. there is a very fine misalignment from the engine to the cv axle hole so when you try to put the whole cv axle with the bearing pedestal together you noticed the axle not going in freely and you had a bit of trouble lining up the pedestal pin (noticed the cut in the video). remember the engine block is rather fragile. if the engine block cracks everyone kind of knows the rest of the story.

[@richardstrande6469]

Thanks for this, got the driver side replaced and the passenger side out just need to get the bearing housing off the old and on to the new one

[@volvotango8363]

Thanks very informative, clear and concise.

[@1AAuto]

+volvotango Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

[@RonaldoOliveira-no8sn]

Muito bom ótima qualidade de vídeo, bem explicado eu mesmo vou realizar o serviço aqui no Brasil 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾

[@claudinhothebest]

Muito trabalho, se não tiver todas as ferramentas e um bom elevador, vai levar pelo menos uns 2 dias pra fazer isso.

[@dallasvanwyk]

Great video very useful 10/10

[@erikorisko4095]

perfect all the way.. many thanks

[@randallpachoud2437]

Nice work, helped me out big time. Ty

[@1AAuto]

+Randall Pachoud Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com

[@1337pcftw]

Next time you have a screw or a hex drive that is caked, use a pick to pick out all of the gunk in the hole and spray it to clear out the bits. It's a time saver.

[@1AAuto]

+Adlib TV Thanks for checking us out!

[@joet4806]

Thank you. V G Video. Excellent teaching skills

[@1AAuto]

+Joe T Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

[@romantorrano2355]

Excellent video thank you

[@bassamabdelnabi3117]

Great job, thanks so much

[@helenavan7584]

Great video.hate rust cause headache.

[@fender7802]

Great job thanks very much for the video

[@1AAuto]

+fender7802 Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/toyota-cv-axle-shaft/i/1aacv00280?KZbin&CTA+Comment&OCVoU

[@danicmda]

Very well done video! Had to replace it at 200k miles. Question tho, after replacing the axle, there is a popping sound on both driver and passenger side. It only happens when shifting from P to R or D or D to R, R to D. I was able to put my hand on either side axle and I can feel the pop. Do we have to add any fluid? Does this model Camry have a differential? Thank you again for the video!

[@artoftrap2383]

Thanks for the information

[@henryrobinson9837]

good video, i am from yhe rust belt, and it is a major job

[@evecruz0167]

Very good trick thank you so much

[@osamawaer]

My brother has a 08 one, And we bought two new drive shafts (both sides) Some say it's a hard job in this kinda car and causes the Transmission to fail many local mechanics refused to do it! I've replaced them on many cars i drove before such as nissan sunny, Hyundai tucson and santafe Without any problem

[@johnsonmotorsports731]

I koolo okk

[@w3lcme]

Thanks for keeping it real. I hate when they edit out the real world problems that occur.

[@1AAuto]

+Ian F Thanks for checking us out!

[@SemperMortem]

Seems as if it would be easy if everything didn't go wrong. Thankfully mine doesn't look rusty at all and hopefully comes right out

[@ivandodge3039]

Didn’t you know fixing any car that isn’t brand new is like playing halo on legendary. Everything is way more difficult than it has to be.

[@torvicdlove9622]

Thank you for the video. I will be working on this today. Question - do you have to have a wheel alignment after this? TIA

[@JTAITSINGER]

I don’t know how it will turn out but I’m going to try and put some grey tape around the sway bar link bolts to see if that cuts down on the rust. I usually use heat to get them off, I hate using my angle grinder, to many sparks and flying metal. Last time I did this job the sway bar links was the toughest part, that and getting the cotter pin out of the ball joint.

[@aborosiotoronibau1398]

well presented thanks.

[@1AAuto]

+Aborosio Toronibau Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/toyota-cv-axle-shaft/i/1aacv00280?KZbin&CTA+Comment&OCVoU

[@frankfontana4022]

Awesome. Thanks.

[@timroche1634]

Gear video - thanks!

[@nelsong4719]

I'm about to tackle this job on an 02 Camry with a lot less corrosion and I think I'm going to remove it with the bearing pedestal intact. Will I be able to sneak by that sway bar support and if I do have to remove and replace should I also replace the one the one on the driver's side. Thanks for your video

[@francisgolomeke3651]

I change this shaft ,after changing the car doesn't change again why

[@brianofferman8233]

Good video. Funny parts when He was pressing the axle out of bearing carrier when it broke free it scared him. No cursing good job.

[@1AAuto]

+Brian Offerman Thank you for the comments and for watching!

[@sonnynguyen8012]

😀

[@gchuck2442]

How did you remove bearing carrier top outboard mounting bolt. And how did you keep it off the locating pins before you tapped the axle out??

[@paulww2270]

Very good movies. Thank you .

[@1AAuto]

Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +Paul WW

[@nolibruno1942]

Very nice and very helpful video...Can you please give me the size of the axle oil seal for camry 2004

[@charlesclark9627]

We used a bar with a fork end to split/separate ball joints and also the tie-rods. On front end drive axle replaces the tie rod .Rear wheel drive has tie rods and no axle . Tie rods adjust toe in toe out . To allign front wheel to parallel. Wheels can be pointed in or out when out of alignment.

[@rikkcompetente6948]

one thing i learned from this is that dont use whatever "rust penetrant" his using coz its not working.

[@Wren4123]

I've been using wd 40 to at least some success

[@kg4boj]

It all depends on how rusty they are... sometimes no penetrant can penetrate. This car looks severely rust corroded.

[@johnnhoj15]

*he's

[@johnnhoj15]

He's and his are two different words.

[@VSCuddlez]

Pb blaster is a really good penetrant

[@hardlymovingpro]

I'm confused. You pressed out the carrier bearing with the snap ring still in its groove? You put so much pressure on the shaft that the carrier bearing exploded out when the snap ring finally gave out? Could you have soaked penetrating oil on the carrier bracket's snap ring groove and worked the snap ring loose?

[@keithv6330]

Just did this. With the stuck carrier bearing, I ordered a new one then used a 4" cutoff wheel to split the old one and the axle came right out.

[@qrs_tuv1925]

Excellent

[@bryblanch]

Freakin Sweet!!! Should you grease the splines b4 you re-install? Not sure if it will allow it to slide in easier.

[@supadem]

the reason why it was hard to go back in causing u to bang the axle in the trans was because u was supposed to install the carrier FIRST then slide the axle in. There was was way too much tension on the shaft because of the 2 locating pins. Hopefully u didnt damage the threads at the transmission when u was hammering the axle in place

[@TheTruth-ge7fj]

True, you should never bang anything through the transmission. It hurts looking at it.

[@StuntTube]

@@TheTruth-ge7fj banging it like that could definitely damage the bearings on the 2 cv joints too

[@dc5723]

Thanks for a great video. I replaced the passenger side CV shaft on our 1005 Toyota Avalon XL and though no rust here in Hawaii, the bearing was stuck on good despite tapping it with a prybar and brass punch. Some WD-40 easily knocked it out. The car would vibrate when accelerating from a stop and on slow speed right turns. Replaced both sides since the boots were torn but vibration still there. Engine mounts and suspension are good. Thoughts?

[@RaJahDathurr]

Did not realize they made a 1005 Avalon XL 🤔

[@ashleyperez3075]

Hopefully you fixed ur issue by now but heres some info. If you didn't use oem parts could still be the axles. With toyota and nissan they do not like aftermarket axles. Idk bout other manufactures but those ive had customers want aftermarket installed them and vibration didnt go away until oem was installed. Will say him hammering the axle in is a no go imo. If you have to hammer it in like that then the splines are not aligned well and can damage them and they can cause a vibration. Better to use momentum with the axle and push it in. Im a woman and have NEVER used a hammer to install a cv axle and ive done tons of them. Not necessarily to replace the axle every time but also to do engines or transmission jobs ect. Another thing that can cause a vibration with axles after replacement is over tightening the axle nut. It can pull the threads you can end up with a vibration or an axle you can't get back off or reuse after removing it. Fyi always use a new axle nut. Aside from the axle causing the vibration you can have a tire issue. Now normally tire issues are at higher speeds or consistent but occasionally you can get one that causes some weird stuff. Correction/check would to first do the 2mph test. On a flat level smooth surface drive stright ahead at 2mph. Watch the steering wheel. If it moves back and forward or keeps pulling one way or other you have a radial pull and or a tire with a bad belt or extreme wear. Check tire depth across the tire to make sure its the same. Then id check/do a roadforce balance. Watch it on the balance machine. Watch the tire itself and the rim to look for uneven movement and or bent rims. If lug nuts are tightened too much it can cause a vibration. If rotors are warped bad enough it can cause a vibration while driving. (If case always change out the pads because the contact wont be flush. Some ppl sand them down but if you cant sand them flush then they wont make full contact and will rewarp the rotors. If wheel bearing is bad it can cause a vibration. They dont always make noise. Bad carrier bearings and or joints in drive shafts can cause vibration on acceleration on rwd vehicles. Theres more but these are the most common.

[@zaiks0105]

@@ashleyperez3075 Quite comprehensive, kudos to you!

[@qaisabdullah9528]

Hi, if I do the same way do you think I need to add transmission oil?

[@embededfabrication4482]

a piece of 3/4" pipe works as a breaker bar extension. Don't be surprised if you can't get the spindle nut off, I've had to go at them with the cutoff disc to get them loose

[@arnoldmadela1574]

I changed out that exact driveshaft. It was a pain. I ended up going to a junkyard and busted one out then I went all-out removing the old one. Pain, but got it done. I have that extra bearing brace in the trunk as a reminder.

[@zaiks0105]

Souvenirs ... I have a couple of those too :D

[@derekhambleton4746]

It helps if you use a pipe wrench and battery die grinder to remove the inside plastic fender guard before you use brake clean on the power steering reservoir

[@TNTtheLEGEND]

Yeah man, this was a pain in the butt. Was locked up for me as well. Not to mention little work space.

[@lildad919]

Good tool for removing bolts from stabilizer with rust is an induction heater that way if it’s still in good condition your able to safely reuse it

[@mridware9694]

Excellent, link rod part can be fast forward

[@xBBoyxGoten]

Man this dude really went off on that rust lol. I would of called it quits and bought a new carrier

[@adammirochnik6796]

Great video! At around 21:20 You guys used white grease when reinstalling the new CV axle into the bearing holder, can I use anti-seize lubricant (aluminum, copper, or graphite) instead?

[@ScubaCat3]

Adam Mirochnik that's what I did about 3 years ago. It's been fine so far. I put a thin coat on both the bearing and carrier.

[@gordbaker896]

yes.

[@roamwithme2440]

Hello Everyone, All of ya seem to very knowledgeable about CV axle. If I need to change one of the CV axle, should I change both as recommended? And, OEM part seem to be $1150 for both sides and not available at this moment whereas aftermarket is around $350. What would be a good decision in this case ? If aftermarket, what brand should I look for ? Thank you for suggestion

[@RaJahDathurr]

I did it , without removing the sway bar link...

[@condor5635]

16:03 - your videos have singlehandedly convinced me not to live in a rust belt state. Move to Texas! I don't think I would enjoy working on cars having to deal with all the issues I have seen on many of your videos. Thanks for great video! Great job.

[@1AAuto]

Thank you for your feedback!! +condor5635

[@zakorkaz]

Yuck. Texas and all its bible beaters? I’ll stick with NY and it’s salt lol.

[@dennisrobinson8008]

Should the inner CV joint have any in out play to it? Mines had in out play to it, and would turn 1/8-1/4" in the forward direction before engaging. Installed a brand new passenger side axle on the ES300 2002, and immediately there was a clunking noise when driving straight forward and when turning one direction.

[@josejuarez8227]

Thank you. After watching this, there is no way I can do this at home safely. Just called my mechanic and scheduled an appointment.

[@smart_klick_media_8891]

LOL Same here! I'm usually a DIYer but this, nope

[@sixcentsmedia]

For REAL! 6 minutes in he has a power saw in hand.

[@sixcentsmedia]

My car is not nearly as rusty as this thing is though.

[@SSwizzyMusic]

No wonder why toyota trying to charge 600 for this 🤣 they know I prob wont be able to DIY on this one

[@ajjamula]

I wonder how did you pull that axle out with the bearing carrier still attached to the axle. I was trying to do the same but I couldn't pull it out since there are 2 centering pins for that bracket preventing from forward/back movement and the axle sits in the transmission housing preventing side to side movement. Anyway, I had to cut an axle in 2 pieces which then allowed me to get it out. Still had hard time removing bearing out of carrier by pounding this thing with hammer, using wise to secure carrier I used a ball joint separator tool wedge it between bearing carrier and CV joint housing to get initial 1/4 inch movement then I pounded it out with hammer. Ridiculous job if you don't have a press but can be done in the garage and wise at minimum.

[@campusgarbey82]

Once you take the horse shoe clip , you can use a slide hammer with the axle fork to pull the axle with the baring

[@marvindelacruzreddamienstudios]

...said you used a 30mm 12pt deep socket to get the axle nut out. Just wanna ask how deep the socket needs to be? Will 1/2 or 3/4 do?

[@juliedove1442]

Do you have a video how to do this on a Gen 2 Prius, or is this pretty similar?

[@1AAuto]

+Julie Dove We currently do not have an auto repair video that covers this particular repair. We will keep this request in mind in the event that we need to make this repair in the future. 1aauto.com

[@po-hg1hf]

on my Camry SE 2014 all was rusted like in the video. I bought new seal and pedestal. Removing the 2 top bolts was specially challenging. I wonder how it was done in the video and what kind of tool was used (very tight space and no room to move)? The other challenge is to pry the top part of the pedestal over the 2 location-pins. No obvious.

[@n.c.2537]

On one of your videos says when tighten the axle nut to 217 ft/lbs to have the car on neutral. Which on this video the guy did not do that. Which procedure is the right ok one? Thanks

[@ryannrjohnson]

Ugh, same problem I’ve been having on removing the cv axle from my daughter RX350 for two weeks now. The snap ring came off easily but the axle is stuck in the bearing pedestal. Tried slide hammer, banging it out and a crowbar but no luck. The bearing pedestal is part of the motor mount on that model so I’m gonna have to get it on a lift so I can have room to take that bearing pedestal/motor mount off to finish this job 😩

[@jackshaw7488]

Thanks for your video . At 16:05 there is a piece in middle of the shaft but it is not exist on your new shaft. No where in the video you move that middle piece on to the new shaft. (I am not talking about bearing pedestal). Could you clarify? Thank you in advance.

[@user-xc6hl5gn1k]

Excuse me, can I ask a question about your field of work? You disassemble and install the Excel for the Toyota Camry... As I watch you and your channel we have in the Toyota Camry 2010 or 2014, I removed the Excel from the automatic transmission and the car did not cool down. The laziness so that it does not become a failure in the transmission... Do you have this thing in relation to the Camry? But do you have a way to decode the Excel camera, please explain and be thankful for you