2004 ford escape v6 heater core replacement

[@randolphdull4193]

Handy-Mann, you have explained this job in the exact terms that a mechanic can understand. Just the right short cut to "do it myself", Thank You very much!

[@danielmajka8955]

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[@genericcommenter7250]

Great video, thank you very much for this. I took the better part of two days to do mine, but it wasn't difficult at all, just time-consuming. One thing to note is that there are two white plastic knobs at each side that plug into a hole, which helps align the dash. I found the dash hard to pull back until I realized all I had to do was pull hard enough to pop those off. I have an '02 5-speed. The Haynes manual says you have to take off the shift linkage and take out the passenger airbag, but you don't have to do either. You do need to disconnect the passenger airbag electrical connector, and also disconnect the blower motor resistor and blower, but I didn't disconnect any electrics on the driver's side at all (other than taking out the dash cluster). I don't know if anyone else has this problem, but I find that when I turn the temp knob all the way to full cold, the knob bounces back off the stop. I also suspect it's not going all the way to the full hot setting when I turn it; however, when I move the blend door with my hand on it, behind the dash, it's at its full stop. I'm not really impressed with the amount of heat out of the vehicle even after replacing the core, thermostat, and flushing the system, but there's no doubt it's better than it was. You need the simplest of hand tools to do this job - small sockets, flathead and Philips screwdrivers, that's it. Oh, and to remove the trim panel around the center controls I used a bike tire pry tool, plastic so no scratches. Do NOT move the steering wheel once you have unbolted the center bolt in the 'v' in this vid. Straighten the wheels first. Remember, ziploc baggies and a black marker are your friend and will save you a lot of headache later. Put the screws and bolts from different parts into baggies and write what they're for, then the size of socket head needed, e.g. "Glovebox - 7mm". Trust me it'll save a LOT of time during reassembly.

[@Starcrunch72]

good extra tips. Here's another tip---don't mix coolants or use city tap water!!! In April, I bought an 06 with 2.3L auto, in doing the first maintenance, I found that someone had mixed coolants thereby creating silica rocks in the degass bottle, rad and probably the heater core. Had to replace thermostat, rad, and bottle--ran coolant flush in it for a month (over the summer) and kept draining and refilling with distilled water. It had thrown a code for the thermostat opening too soon. Managed to save the heater core with all the flushing but replaced the other parts and its hot as hades inside, for now, but the replacement core is on the shelf for a later install.

[@feelthepayne88]

Thanks for this video. The whole process took me about 5 hours thanks to you. Probably would have taken twice that long if I didn't have the information you provided. 👍

[@matttuggle1]

Great video, thank you for taking the time to create it. Change out heater core in 03 Escape today took about 5 hours start to finish. Only thing was I kept looking for bolt above column and finally figured out it was a nut needing remove.

[@Handy-Mann]

Glad I could help!

[@torysticklee2133]

Thanks brother.. I just finished doing my heater core in my 05 escape.. because of you video it took me 5 and half hours

[@Handy-Mann]

How i could help!!

[@calebedwards7093]

How did you know your heater core was the issue? I think mine is leaking but it bring in the center is there a way to tell for sure?

[@LuisWorkShopCustomCreations]

thanks i just finish my from 10:00 am to 2:30 pm, just one note theirs about 7 plugs beside the antenna wire that require to get disconnected in order to pull dash out but over all was not so bad to do with two people thanks again for the time you put out to help home mechanic, to save some money good job keep up the good work

[@bairfamilyfarm1336]

Wow, you were 30 minutes faster than AllData's flat rate hour!

[@york57]

This is probably the best video of ever watched you make it look easy but you explain everything in great detail. I honestly don't think I could do mine we just had gotten a 2003 Ford Escape and it has no heat and I'm worried it is the heater core.

[@Handy-Mann]

Sam Gray check you coolant levels often and if they're are lower each time and you have no heat, it is likely the heater core. Or if you smell coolant/a sweet smell in your escape it's likely the heater core. My heater core didn't leak at all but there was a blockage in it because once the vehicle was warmed up you would get about 60 seconds of warm air before it would turn ice cold. Replacing the heater core fixed the issue. If you do have to replace the heater core, hopefully this video helps and good luck!

[@genericcommenter7250]

Sam of course you can do it, just be patient and persistent. Never lose your cool or you'll break something. Approach it calmly and determinedly and you'll be fine, you just need basic hand tools and a little extra coolant on hand to make up what spills/leaks when you take the hoses off. This is a great vid to work from and covers most of what you'll encounter. So many people are scared of heater cores like it's the end of the world but it's just disassemble, replace, assemble. No cutting, welding, drilling, etc required, easy peasy. A great attitude will get you farther than a great screwdriver, 'cause you can always improvise if you don't have a screwdriver, but a defeated or bad attitude will mean you can have all the tools in the world and still not do the job. Let us know how it goes!

[@ricaldolavoe2717]

Extremely helpful this video helped me out a lot and saved me a lot of headaches thank you

[@fatboyshadetree5139]

Great video. Very helpful. My escape is exact same as yours. Mine loses coolant and I can find the leak. The radiator tank is a bit wet and there is a bashed in section but nothing else but it seems to leak out the overflow tank. Giving me a headache.

[@perjian1697]

Great video. Not a lot of info on changing these in the escape and the mazda equivalent Tribute.

[@Handy-Mann]

Thanks!

[@edhunted777]

I had to do this with my Jeep Cherokee. Nightmare is the correct term for those stupid heater cores.

[@mrburns366]

So... what you're saying is.. Screw that noise! lol I'll just be cold

[@Box545x39]

At least all the fancy plastic looks "pretty" for the ladies out there. What happened to the days you could actually work on something built to last and built to work on.

[@X80057X]

Huge help! Trying to now finagle the heater core out but can't seem to get enough room behind the dash. I'll get it for sure but thanks on the video!

[@karenhonabach3987]

What if you have a shifter on the floor? I have 2005. Is pulling back the dash any different?

[@jessesward9429]

When you mention the “huge metal setup” do you remove the bolts fully or do you just loosen them? At 2:34

[@jessesward9429]

Also can you leave the hvac controls attached?

[@pierrecamirand616]

I have to do this to my 2006 Escape. Do you know if everything is set up the same as your 2004?

[@cwbintn8949]

What were all the tools that you used to take everything apart? I have a 2001 Mazda tribute that I'm gonna have to do the same Heater core is shit cuz ppl that had it b4 me put stop leak in the radiator and stopped up the heater core in the process

[@Handy-Mann]

so on the stock radio there are 4 tiny little holes on the sides (2 on each side). I could have bought the tool that plugs into all 4 holes and will release the radio, but I just made them myself out of coat hangers (you essentially just make a "u" shape where the ends line up with the stock radio holes). once they're pushed in, you'll hear almost a click sound then you can pull the radio forward and unhook the wires at the back of the radio and then completely remove the radio.

[@davidseaton726]

Good video bro fr! You made a pain in the a$$ job look pretty simple...lol. Appreciate the call outs for the size sockets you needed for each step too, makes it a helluva lot easier if you already have what your gonna need at the ready. I hit you with a 👍 and subscribed,... keep em coming!

[@Handy-Mann]

Glad I could be helpful!

[@Box545x39]

I have a mouse nest in my heater ducts somewhere of a 03 escape, so this vid will be very helpful. It's crazy how much is involved for just a heater core. I wish more mechanics designed cars instead of whoever did this.

[@Handy-Mann]

It really would be nice if there was simply a bar to be removed behind the glove box to get to the heater core, but that might mess with the structural integrity of the car.

[@brianhind6149]

Your explanations were excellent ...Thank You. A smart phone camera or whatever you were using is a poor choice. Also the lighting was next to non existent. I point these deficiencies out, not to be a critic or a smart ass, but merely to advise you that your next video can be absolutely excellent if you address these issues. Your procedure & your explanations are first rate. Thank you again for your effort.

[@sarawatson8352]

At 7:14 where is the first bolt you said you forgot to remove can’t tell from the video

[@bribrew888]

Dropping the steering wheel is very confusing. I can’t seem to find on my 2005 Mazda Tribute where the “v” is your referencing.

[@brianhind6149]

Thank you for the effort. It was helpful, but the lack of lighting & the use of what I believe was a cell phone camera, detracted greatly from what a real camera & proper lighter would have accomplished. Please don;t consider my comments as criticism....they were intended as observations only. Thank you for your time & effort & hopefully you will make other videos.

[@gerardo.porras]

My car was leaking but it stopped because I haven't turn the heater on. It seems that the heat core is empty now. Thats why I still think about replacing it or not. I don't want to clean again so I haven't turn on the AC or the heater. My question is that if I only use the A/C do you know if it will leak again? or only if I use the heater then it will start to flow liquid again though the heater core. I'm afraid to turn it on for A/C may be I should not. Thank you!

[@Handy-Mann]

Gerardo Porras the heater core should constantly have flow through it whenever the car is warmed up, if it is no longer leaking you need to check your radiator overflow and radiator for coolant levels because you may be dangerously low. Turning the heat or ac on won't cause it to leak anymore then it already is, and unfortunately if it is leaking coolant in the vents then your only option is to replace the heater core.

[@jky3889]

If the heater core is leaking, you can install a heater bypass elbow from the auto parts store. both heater hoses are 5/8", so get a 5/8 x 5/8 heater elbow. I did this as a temporary fix. taped clear tubing to one of the heater core ports, then zip-tied the bypass elbow to the port to keep it from bouncing around. I used the clear tubing as padding to protect the plastic bypass elbow. I then did the heater core repair later, over the course of several days, when the weather was good. Day 1. cleaned the car. removed everything from the interior & glovebox. removed most of the plastic. did not remove the door sill plastic, but temporarily removed the forward fasteners to be able to remove the footwell plastic, then reinstalled the door sill fasteners. 1 on each side of the car. removed the steering wheel & airbag. Day 2. disconnected some remaining elec connectors. removed the radio. removed the instrument panel bolts. did some cleaning. Day 3. replaced the heater core. and started putting it back together. etc etc etc.

[@3m0k1d4evr]

+Handy-Mann Thanks for making this video. Do you have any idea what the inside diameter of those heater hoses going into the heater core are? 5/8? 3/4?

[@Handy-Mann]

Ralph Livingston I actually am not sure. somewhere between 1/2 to 3/4 inches would be a good guess. sorry I don't have an actual answer for you

[@3m0k1d4evr]

they are 5/8. I bought an adaptor to bypass the core until I feel like doing this job.

[@tinasaner4880]

Thanks. Alot of removing. But Great information

[@Handy-Mann]

Thanks! Glad I could help!

[@karencordaro6682]

gosh great video - makes the bill I have to pay more understandable. Use a light next time!! Would have liked to see better!

[@brianallison1913]

I'd have to judge by actually seeing up close but I'd damn near consider taking a few things off the engine and cutting a hole in the firewall and pulling it Out through the engine compartment. Would have to make a new patch with some sheet metal and seal up with fasteners and sealant. Of course that would be if it was my own vehicle or if the owner agreed.

[@elizabetdiaz1686]

Would the Ac not work if there was an issue with the heater core? I refilled my Ac coolant and white smoke started to come out of the vents and muffler. Thanks.

[@Handy-Mann]

So the ac system and the heating system are completely different systems. The ac system has a small radiator like system next to the fan under the dash, kinda like a heater core that cools air down that blows over it. Are you saying you recharged your ac with r-134a? I don't see how recharging your ac would cause white smoke to come out of your muffler (you're talking your exhaust right?) If white smoke is coming out of your vents it could be the ac or the heater core. If the white smoke smells sweet like coolant, then the heater core needs to be replaced.

[@elizabetdiaz1686]

+Handy-Mann yes. White smoke smells like coolant. And I did recharge with that freon you speak of. And still no cool air it blows air but not cool or cold. Just hot air. People are telling me compressor or condenser? Thanks for your help.

[@Handy-Mann]

+Elizabet Diaz so it sounds like you need your heater core replaced since it smells like coolant coming out of the vents. To see if you need a new ac compressor, open the hood and have the car running with the ac off. Next turn the ac to the coldest setting then turn the fan to the highest setting. The rpms should drop a couple hundred and you'll hear a click. Also have someone else watching the ac compressor to see if it engages and you'll be able to see the center of the compressor clutch rotate. This means that your ac compressor is probably good. If that all checks out, then recheck the ac pressure with the same tool that you used to refill the r-134a. If the pressure is low again, then you have a leak somewhere and you'll probably need to take it to a mechanic and have them do the dye test to find where the leak is. Hopefully you get it figured out!

[@Handy-Mann]

+Elizabet Diaz so it sounds like you need your heater core replaced since it smells like coolant coming out of the vents. To see if you need a new ac compressor, open the hood and have the car running with the ac off. Next turn the ac to the coldest setting then turn the fan to the highest setting. The rpms should drop a couple hundred and you'll hear a click. Also have someone else watching the ac compressor to see if it engages and you'll be able to see the center of the compressor clutch rotate. This means that your ac compressor is probably good. If that all checks out, then recheck the ac pressure with the same tool that you used to refill the r-134a. If the pressure is low again, then you have a leak somewhere and you'll probably need to take it to a mechanic and have them do the dye test to find where the leak is. Hopefully you get it figured out!

[@Handy-Mann]

+Elizabet Diaz so I actually meant that the rpms will go up a couple hundred when you turn on the ac

[@ab21bum]

Question; ,,, my Car Works perfectly Hot & cold, ,,, but my Problem is when I try to change The Direction of The Channels like, , Front, Down, Up, , you know < ^ v do you think this can solve my problem? ?? thanks ☺

[@Handy-Mann]

Julian Ruiz you're talking about changing the flow of air from defroster to feet/defroster to front vents? because if that's your issue, it sounds like it's an actuator issue

[@josbinyoface6276]

😱WOW. HOPEFULLY everything goes back together. Looks very stressful.😬

[@kiernanmay8177]

No way to do without taking dash off?

[@Handy-Mann]

Unfortunately no, there's a part of the frame for the dash that blocks the heater core. So the only way to replace the heater core is by pulling the dash back and even then there's only a couple of inches of wiggle room

[@kiernanmay8177]

@@Handy-Mann that's disappointing. Guess I'll be spending some quality time with my Ford. Not worth the$$ to pay someone

[@Handy-Mann]

@@kiernanmay8177 yeah, after doing the job you'll understand why shops charge so much to replace it

[@Pcoso]

I wonder if i can do this to my town car just simply drop the dash and change the core all the vids on yt on it are to much of a process

[@brianhind6149]

Thanks for your descriptions & hard work. I am afraid that a cell phone & no auxiliary lighting detracted considerably from the usefulness. A proper camera is the only way. Please understand that this is an observation & NOT a criticism of your help.

[@Handy-Mann]

Don't worry, I completely agree. This was my first video I made so I hadn't quite found my groove yet. Hopefully it still helped you some though!

[@l.watkins7793]

THANK YOU

[@Handy-Mann]

You're welcome!

[@cakeisalie]

helped me get to my evaporator it had a small leak :/

[@jeannenjason]

What was the blue coat hanger used for?

[@hardcoredj07]

can i divert the heater core altogether? ie link those two hoses.. im getting a funky smell when I turn the air con on or in general like a glue pungent smell is heater core to blame? I remember mechanic diverting old Nissan pulsar heater issue..?

[@brucemaurer5271]

Yes

[@jky3889]

The blue coat hangers in the video constitute a homemade tool for removing the radio.

[@JamesBongo]

Why did you have to replace the core?

[@Handy-Mann]

The heater wasn't working properly. After the car warmed up, it only provided heat for about 60 seconds then only blew cold air. It wasn't leaking but that would mean it was blocked up and coolant wasn't flowing through it.

[@JamesBongo]

@@Handy-Mann thanks for the reply. I'm wondering because I just had to change my radiator. But I noticed a clumpy white build up in the lower hose and my heater hasn't worked for a while. I'm wondering if I need to replace the core so I don't ruin another radiator.

[@mrburns366]

Was yours clogged or leaking?

[@Handy-Mann]

My heater core was clogged.

[@bairfamilyfarm1336]

Not sure who to blame for this, Ford or Mazda.

[@dwaynewhitaker3053]

Very dark. Needs more lighting. Comments and instructions very good.

[@JohnKaulo]

Explication en franchise sur lechauffage

[@chrismartin3036]

How long did take u from start to finish?

[@chrismartin3036]

I'm in process of doing mine. Thanks for the in depth video. I'm putting it together now.

[@Handy-Mann]

chris martin it was about a year ago that I did this so I can't remember the exact amount of time but I split it up over two days, plus I took the time to record while doing the job......so total was probably 7-8 hours. I would set aside the majority of a day to do this project if you're planning on it

[@Handy-Mann]

Also I tend to take longer on my projects then I anticipated haha a mechanic who does this for a living would probably get the job done in like 3-4 hours, even less if they had help

[@christinehucklebridge1534]

good video, thanks

[@chrismartin3036]

I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute. Same vehicle.

[@Handy-Mann]

chris martin so it should be the same exact procedure. I go through every bolt I had to take off to get to the heater core, and little tips of what I had to do. It'll go much faster though if you have some help if you're worried about time. Good luck!

[@chrismartin3036]

I got it. I'm process of hooking up electrical parts now. Thx

[@FixitFaze]

Great video but id junk the car 😆

[@HerbDoesEverything]

O.O

[@DeepStateDestroyer]

Show you actually do it not just saying so and explain how to pull the pins apart from each other.