2004 Ram Passenger Power Windows Don't Work From Their Respective Switches

This 04 Ram has a problem where all the passenger power window switches won't work but they all work from the master switch.

[@danielrocque327]

Thank you for solving the same problem I'm having with my 2003 Ram Quad. And in a professional manner. Video and audio are excellent. Thanks again.

[@PhillipBailey]

Glad it helped you out

[@2WheeledMafia]

Well sir I would gladly buy you a coffee or a beer lol This is the first video in all of KZbin history that was BANG ON PERFECT. You made my job so much easier and also now I have a happy and satisfied customer. Sir I cannot thank you enough for sharing this.

[@PhillipBailey]

Glad it helped you. You can send me a tip by clicking the Superlike.

[@loudmouthb]

I have been hunting for this fix for months.... thank you for showing me where this issue is located

[@PhillipBailey]

Hope it helps you. Let me know if its the same problem.

[@loudmouthb]

@@PhillipBailey I will be looking at both my trucks to see if it's the same problem

[@halhirst2624]

I had the exact same problem in my 03 2500 quad cab. Thanks for finding the location on that factory splice.

[@PhillipBailey]

Nice to know, glad you figured it out.

[@BenRush]

Way to diagnose, and hey...well done on showing us the whole process from beginning to end. This is a pretty damn cool channel. Subscribed. Keep 'em coming.

[@PhillipBailey]

Thanks for watching appreciate the feedback.

[@jacquedoane7335]

My Durango is doing the same thing. Thank you for giving me a place to start!!!

[@jgeorges3061]

PHILLIP, as always great thanks for sharing.

[@jeepanimal2943]

Thank you! Another looking for months situation.

[@olddirtyburt7522]

Excellent diagnosis. Way to stay with the troubleshooting.

[@olddirtyburt7522]

Went outside yesterday to do the diagnosis on my 04, and I went through the trouble shooting and got to the 3 wires in the undersill. Looked like it was intact , however on trying to test for power, no light on my tester. Started looking for other problems; come to find out, even though it was intact and had copper showing, no flow of power. Cut, spliced, and VIOLA, power to all windows. Heat shrunk the connector and it will out last the truck. Again, thanks

[@PhillipBailey]

Glad it helped you out.

[@lbbw1999]

Thanks. Fixed my windows too!

[@sciflyer67]

My exact symptoms! Subscribed I'll be tearing it up tomorrow. Thanks!

[@PhillipBailey]

Let us know if its the same failure...

[@sciflyer67]

@@PhillipBailey My 2003 Ram has Yellow wires to and from the splice. The splice was wrapped with cloth adhesive tape and was very clean, but the wires weren't soldered or crimped together. I had no power to the splice unless I squeezed the drivers main control unit next to the window control switch button. The power would go to 0V when depressing the lockout switch, so I knew it was the correct wires. After getting 12V by squeezing the switch unit, I had a friend try the rear drivers side window switch. The power went to 0V and did not return after trying the switch. I'm going to solder the splice and order a new drivers main control unit tomorrow.

[@PhillipBailey]

@@sciflyer67 sounds like the lockout switch in the driver door switch has failed. You're on tge right track it seems.

[@jschenkyou]

Thank you for making this video!

[@randyjr00021]

Thank you that was my problem with my truck

[@PhillipBailey]

Glad it helped you out.

[@Mr345mike]

Awesome. So helpful!

[@lambfur64]

Great detailed video. My 1500 has this issue, now I know exactly where to look. On that note, is it under the center sill of the rear passenger door? and not the under the rear of the driver door? pretty much the same depending on how much carpet you pull up

[@PhillipBailey]

Should be under the driver door sill plate

[@orville58]

Nice job sir I have the exact problem on my truck I’ve got a starting point

[@PhillipBailey]

Since the switch just pops out of the door I'd verify you have power on the orange blue wire at the switch first. If good check wires in the pillar boot then go for the splice. Good luck.

[@orville58]

@@PhillipBailey thank you

[@usertubeification]

Do you know if the regular cab has the same splice location?

[@gckshea]

Hi Phillip! My 2003 Ram is having the same symptoms, except the two rear window switches work fine - just the passenger front window is wonky. It works sometimes, but more not working lately. I tested the lockout switch and it is consistently fine. And the trick is figuring out which pin is the numbered pin on C1 and C2 connectors on the driver door module; I can't figure out how they are numbered. My truck's wiring on C2 is also not orange with lt blue stripe ...Copying your tracer placement, my wire is Yellow. Should I be looking in the A pillar and the harness along the driver's floor race like you did to find S333 splice? I am stumped. Also, all the solder joints in the driver's side window module look great, and as best as I can test seem to have continuity. I wish I had access to your exploded diagrams and harness/connector location diagrams. Many thanks for any info.

[@PhillipBailey]

For diagrams try alldatadiy.com. It's not free but pretty reasonable. I don't think its the master switch or lockout switch as that would affect all three windows. Check for power at the right front window switch on the yellow wire coming into the switch. I believe the three switches are the same at least electrically. You could try swapping them. Check for broken wires between the passenger door and A pillar. Does the RF window work from the master switch and not its own switch or not at all? Let me know.

[@gckshea]

@@PhillipBailey The RF window does work only with the master, but not its own switch. All other windows are fine on their own and with the master. Maybe that helps in narrowing it down, given the way these guys are wired? I'll check for power on the yellow wire at the RF switch. But what's frustrating is all of a sudden last night ...it worked!! Then this morning, with no use in the night before, it quit. These intermittent gremlins are the bugger!! I'll let you know

[@PhillipBailey]

@@gckshea that sounds like the power feed wire to the RF switch is broken in the flexible boot between the door and pillar. Try opening and closing the door slowly while trying to use the switch to open or close the window. If you find a position it works in then open the boot at one end and look at the various wires in there. Good luck

[@danielrocque327]

Thanks!

[@PhillipBailey]

Thank you

[@montiraruba2831]

Check the Window breaker under the dash just above the parking break pedal.

[@Meche697]

Site with picture or video that shows this?

[@lordmater]

I have the exact same issue in my 03 Ram 1500 but my drivers door switches test good and there is power under the sill plate where the wire splits into 3, but still no operation at the door switches for the other 3 doors. What else could I check? Thanks in advance.

[@squirttv69]

Did you ever find out? My 03 everything works on drivers on passenger the lock works but not window switch?

[@hector77440]

I have the same problem on my 2004 dodge ram I popped off the door panel thingy that clips in and there is screws underneath that is that where’s it’s located

[@PhillipBailey]

The splice is under the driver door sill plate

[@ethansyp8234]

hey man good video but I still got a question , my problem is my windows work up and down on all doors without the key in the ignition, idk what to do

[@PhillipBailey]

Does anything else still work with the key off such as the radio, wipers or heater blower? Does it eventually stop working say after 20 minutes?

[@alexyoder4666]

I have an 04 dodge ram 2500 with the exact same problem but the wires under the sill plate are connected properly anywhere else I can look

[@PhillipBailey]

Is there power on that wire? That should be live with the key on and the master lockout switch off. If not check between the door and A pillar in that convoluted boot where the wires flex.

[@alexyoder4666]

@@PhillipBailey thank you I'll try that tomorrow

[@jaybee1158]

What if it’s just 1 window not working but everything else is.. ? All of them work from main switch except the front passenger .. idk if it runs of 2 negative and 1 positive or vice of versa.. would it basically be the same outcome as in your video? I opened the passenger door and checked the motor and that’s fine. I proceeded to check the 3 prongs that go to that passenger switch for the window as well as the door lock switch., the door lock worked then I checked the one for the window and out of the 3 prongs only 2 read. Negative , positive and like I asked earlier idk if that last one supposed to be positive or negative, I’ve heard it runs off a negative more so then positive.. also the 2 back doors work via main switch and it’s own switch.. I wish I was able to get that program you have “Direct.Hit” but looks like it’s only for shops/business… Anyways nice video way better then the others I’ve seen.. so any advice I would greatly appreciate it thank you..

[@PhillipBailey]

Thanks for watching. I need to look at a schematic for the circuit which I will do when I get back. You could also try Adatadiy.com they offer access for individuals for a reasonable price.

[@jaybee1158]

@@PhillipBailey oh ok I appreciate it thank you

[@PhillipBailey]

@@jaybee1158 there are 5 wires to the switch. With the switch unplugged there should be power on three terminals with a testlight connected to ground and ignition on and the child lockout off. Orange/tan orange/grey and orange/light blue, pins 2, 4 and 6. The orange/brown and orange/violet, pins 1 and 5 go to the motor. The switches reverse polarity on the motor to make it run up and down. If any of the first three don't have power you could have a broken wire at the door pillars. I know you said you checked the passenger side but they come from the master switch and go through the driver door pillar as well. You could remove the driver switch and confirm power out of the master switch on the first three as well. The switch on the passenger rear door is wired the same and works the same as the front so you could confirm it's operation and compare to the right front. The wire colors are different but the wires are in the same locations at the switch. You could also swap the switches I believe. Test the switch disconnected with an ohmeter between pins 1 and 4 and 2 and 5 for continuity at rest. Hope this helps you. Let me know how you fare.

[@jaybee1158]

@@PhillipBailey thank you very much I can’t tell which wire is which there so badly de colorized . I remove the boot wires look good.. I’m gonna have to check the pillar

[@PhillipBailey]

@@jaybee1158 actually I realized after posting this that the diagram is wrong. There will only be power on pin 6 from the lockout switch. Pins 2 and 4 should be grounded through the master switch and will only be power when the master switch is trying to roll the rf window down or up. Otherwise they are normally grounded through the master switch.

[@gonzaf250]

Where I find a replacement power window switch connector!!! Mine is burnt out

[@PhillipBailey]

Most likely a salvage yard would be your best option. Otherwise try the dealer for the entire wiring harness in the door. It might not be that bad. Good luck.

[@patrickd6450]

Nice video

[@arnaudstral]

I didn’t know that lock bouton , feel stupid

[@gilsonramalho9170]

Parabéns

[@cruzlopez1239]

Hey where is your shop located I would like to drop my truck off

[@PhillipBailey]

I'm just outside Thunder Bay in Ontario Canada eh but am temporarily unable to do any repair work due to medical issues.

[@hemispherion4298]

I am extremely stupid I just had the switch lock on

[@hyperactive216]

Ty