2005 Kia Sorento SUV timing belt replacement/overview

2005 kia sorento timing belt replacement/overview
#FYIReviewsAndHowTos #FYI #kiasorento

[@jerbburleson1]

Still with this project. It's been about 2 months now but am getting real close. Again this video was so helpful and covered so many points and I want to commend you for doing this one. I have looked at it many times. Paused it, rewinded it to see different details. Would never have been able to accomplish this without it.

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

Thank you for your compliments I am glad my video helped you through this process.

[@jerryburleson8604]

Just done doing all this procedure and more on a 2005 KIA Sorento. The car has some design weaknesses but is a engineering marvel at the same time. Do not have complete history on it but know the timing belt was replaced only 20,000 miles earlier before the crankbolt loosened shearing harmonic balancer roll pin and requiring another venture into it. Thanks again for all the help and responses. I'm confident I got a good fix on it. If it should fizzle out i'll report back. Currently it has 190,000 miles on it.

[@dandychiggins1531]

How is it now

[@jerbburleson1]

I have had all the time necessary to learn this process. I encountered several difficulties. The damaged crankshaft gear (reluctor gear) would not come off. I eventually had to cautiously grind the reluctor gear down to the key way slot in order to get it to come off (yes I was sweating bullets, but it can be safely done). Then I discovered that the C-key in the crankshaft was also worn and damaged and it too would not come out. I used a dremel tool with a right angle head attachment and the thinest of the available cutting wheels to cut center down the C-key and that eventually worked. Again extreme patience and caution. The C-key is about 3/16ths of a inch wide and about 7/8ths of a inch long. Your smaller dremel tool cutting wheels are about 1" in diameter so are near perfect for the task. Prior to grinding I attempted to drill the C-key with the intent of tapping and using a easy out to pull the key out as some videos had suggested but I could not find a drill bit hard enough to even put a dent it the hardened C-key.

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

Thanks for the insight.

[@bruceadonnelly69]

Thanks for the video. Its very helpful!! Im doing this now on a 2004 KIA Amanti 3.5 along with head gaskets, water pump, cps, etc etc. Just got the crank bolt and pulley off and It looks like the sprocket .. washer with the 3 tabs has 1 that is bent.. anyway to send you a picture.. not sure if this needs to be replaced, not sure how it got bent. Bought the car off of Letgo. Had overheating issues and leaking water pump. Hope I'm not doing all this work for nothing.. Any help is appreciated. Thanks again.

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

You should never buy a vehicle with an overheating issue because many things can cause a vehicle to overheat and some are very bad. Hopefully replacing the water pump will fix the overheating. What you are calling the crank sprocket washer is actually how the crank censor works as those tabs pass through the censor itself. If the car is due for a timing belt change it is a good idea to go ahead and replace everything including the crank sprocket, crank censor, and cam censor as well as the Manuel and hydraulic tensioners. Since you will have the heads off and the car has ran hot you should take the heads to a shop and have them checked to make sure they didn’t warp. You can also have the shop pressure check the heads for cracks or leaks. Good luck.

[@marcanthony4082]

You answered my main question. My kia broke harmonica bolt and sheared the roll pin an I was wondering how you hold so I could torque it. I didn't know about the plate removal. And put a ratchet on the fly wheel. Now I know thanks

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

Marc Anthony glad my video helped.

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

Marc Anthony There was actually a lawsuit against KIA due to the faulty crank bolts.

[@rexkirkland3720]

Yes, holding the fly wheel with the ratchet answered a big question for me too. I did not know about the plate. THANK YOU !!

[@rickhammond7148]

nice job sir !!! i replaced mine with a rockauto kit also years ago and it went well for me ... very time consuming for sure ... the 2005 kia is my daily driver and they were made much better then than they are now ... God Bless Sir !!!

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

Thank you for your comment.

[@jerryfarmer5989]

Yep about a half a million bolts. You need a 14,13, and 10 mm unless your pulling the crank pulley. I just did the crank and cam sensors on mine, timing belt had been done with low mileage. The bracket for the A/C compressor is not fun. 1 single long strange bolt will drive you nuts putting it back in. It is about an 8 hour job period, at least.

[@scottmaziar8318]

you did a very good video here. even using my trick with Harmonic balancer bolt was a great touch.

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

Thank you for the comment and I am glad I could be of any help. We learned those little tricks through knuckle busting trial and error. Lol

[@jerbburleson1]

This is a very informative video with tons of tips. I am hoping I can find the re-assembly video that was to follow.

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

Thank you for the compliment.

[@604Jimmy]

Thanks for the video. It taught me that I shouldn't do this myself.

[@rickkloog8973]

Jeez, yes, the one thing that I needed to know was the belt tension at the adjustable idler and this is the one thing not touched on.

[@jeffduncan7866]

This told me everything I needed to know thank you sir

[@TeresaMiAmore]

I sure wish I had the 2nd part to this video.. Just repaired radiator fan wiring but doesn't seem to be a place for me to secure the wiring to fan out of the way the engine belt.. Which is the reason they had to be repaired in the first place. Top 2 screws of the fan came lose from the radiator and now im stuck😭🙏🏽

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

The timing marks are fins on the block located behind each cam gear. simply line up the marks on the front of each gear with the fin on the block behind it. the crank sprocket has a notch on its flange and when correct that notch will be centered on the fin located on the block just above it and the marks on all the cam gears will be in line with the fins located on the block behind each one.

[@jesusxocua1787]

Muy buen video, gracias por compartir 🙏🏽

[@jerryburleson8604]

Have to say that rockauto.com has supplied all the parts pretty much as per this video. Splendid service, no snags.

[@jerryburleson8604]

Yes you have helped a lot. I am going at this slowly and making sure I know what I am doing before the next step. Think i'm gonna try and come up with a coupla Lisle cam-loks before I go any further.

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

I actually found that the cam locks. were a hinderance. First make sure the engine is in time and then if you look behind the cam gears there are bolt holes that will allow you to stick a bolt through the open slots in the gear and screw it into the bolt holes in the block. Once you put those bolts in place you need to start removing the belt. Your cams will turn some but the bolts will stop them. As you put your new belt on you need to start at the crank sprocket. Using a pair of small vise grips very lightly clamp the belt on the crank sprocket so that it doesn’t move then work your way around to the driver’s side cam sprocket keeping the belt tight and aligning your timing marks. Do this all the way around and when you have the belt, pullies, and tensioners all in place turn your engine over by and 4-5 times and make sure the engine remains in time.

[@TC-en7vi]

Thanks 🙏

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

You are welcome glad we could help.

[@mrsmit4381]

Is there a mark on the harmonic balencer

[@jerbburleson1]

I am still working with this 2005 KIA Sorento. Have the timing belt off and need to put on new crankshaft gear (reluctor gear). The camshafts have been locked with cam locks in the timed position. My question is can I rotate the crankshaft and lower engine without messing anything up in the camshafts? In order to get the reluctor gear on I need the crankshaft rotated a bit. It moves freely a short distance and then gets pretty hard. I need to go a bit further. Not sure if it is engine compression or something else I am not thinking of?

[@jerbburleson1]

Well I kinda answered my own question here. You cannont lock the camshafts in position with cam-locks and rotate the crankshaft freely. I had to think about basic engine function for a minute to recall that the piston is gonna want to hit one of the valves that remains open either in the exhaust or intake position. Letting the valves and camshaft free allow the valve spring tension to close the valves. You can gently rotate the crankshaft until you feel firm resistance and then manipulate the camshaft pulleys slightly and the valve spring tension will pop the valve off the top of the lobe of the camshaft and seat the valve and you can return to rotating the crankshaft gently as necessary. Get your crankshaft gear (reluctor gear) in the timed position first and then worry about getting the camshafts to their appropriate timing marks.

[@jerryburleson8604]

Ok, deeper into the project today. Am wondering does that hydraulic tensioner do all the belt adjusting? I thought I heard mention of a manual adjuster. Could not find the reassembly video if there is one. On the timing belt that is.......more study, the manual adjuster is the washer type assembly with the two small holes. Saw this manipulated with a pair of needle nose pliers or there is a special manual tensioner tool.

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

The manual tensioner is the pulley that the hydraulic tensioner is pushing up on. If you will notice, the pulley has an offset mounting bolt with two empty holes. If you loosen the mounting bolt and turn the tensioner/ pulley by sticking the ends of a pair of needle nose pliers in the empty holes and turning you will see that the tensioner/ pulley turns with a cam action in order to put pressure on the belt. I do not recall which way you are suppose to turn the tensioner/pulley to put pressure on the belt so please refer to the installation instructions that should have came with your kit. Please keep in mind that the tensioner/pulley MUST BE SET AND TIGHTENED DOWN BEFORE YOU PULL THE PIN ON THE HYDRAULIC TENSIONER. I hope this helps you.

[@mrsmit4381]

Well how do you time it? How do you know were marks line up correctly, the important shit

[@jerryburleson8604]

First off let me say I do not expect a immediate response but it is appreciated when possible. The interesting thing about this 2005 Kia 3.5 is the timing belt is pretty tight around the area of the cranksprocket but is just pretty darn loose around the water pump and that has me a bit baffled.

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

Are talking about the old belt or the new one?

[@jerryburleson8604]

Odd thing. I rolled the engine using the crankbolt on a different day and the belt looseness that I previously mentioned was gone. Noticed that the hydraulic tensioner was a little more extended that day so I assume the hydraulic tensioner is/was weak as in the case on this video.

[@itsethanwallintv2327]

Masterpeice. -Ethan

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

ItsEthanWallinTV Hello Ethan

[@jerryburleson8604]

This has been a drawn out process but fortunately there has been no need to rush. In hindsight the diagnosis was this. The crankbolt loosened (did not break) allowing the roll pin in the crankshaft gear to shear stopping the transfer of power to the harmonic pulley and the accessory belts. Something I did not know at the time is that the water pump is unaffected and still functions unlike most cars I am familiar with so it is possible to drive the car a short distance if you have to.

[@karendominicci225]

Hello if the timing belt is broken dont bend valves????

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

It usually does but this one didn’t have a broke timing belt.

[@edwinsantiago7353]

Goodyear ilustrations.

[@delete383]

I was just out putting the harmonic balancer back on and tightening everything back. I couldn't figure out how to get the new belt back on so I came in and found this video... funny thing is, I was wearing the same planet fitness shirt.. what are the chances of that happening... lol

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

I Existence Gematria Accuracy looks like we both have great taste.

[@delete383]

I'm having difficulty figuring out how the lower tensioner pulley loosens. Clockwise or counterclockwise? If you remember I'd appreciate the information. Thank you

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

I Existence Gematria Accuracy I still have this Kia but it has been so long since I did this video that I don’t recall.

[@delete383]

Well, thank you anyhow. Our Kia is being difficult, but I'll get it done... have a good night

[@jerbburleson1]

Questions about the auto tensioner now. Got the Aisin kit from rockauto.com as per this video. The instruction sheet included states that once installed the protrusion of the belt tensioner rod should be between 0.15 and 0.18 after installation. This is confusing to me because out of the box and with the retaining pin still in the rod protrudes a good 1/4" I compressed the old one and installed a pin in it and it too sticks out about 1/4". So, am I missing something?.

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

If the protrusion is the same as the old one I think you will be fine using the new hydraulic tensioner. Sometimes instructional videos and instructions are made for multiple versions on the same part. Just make sure you reassemble everything correctly mainly rotating the manual tensioner in the correct direction as per the instructions. Once you have the belt on and tensioned and the engine is in time with your timing marks in line go ahead and rotate the engine by hand 4-5 times using a ratchet on your crank bolt to ensure everything is right.

[@jerbburleson1]

@@fyireviewsandhowtos3118 Yes, as I said the rod protrudes 1/4" before even pulling the pin and old and new tensioners are the same. I am currently awaiting the manual tensioning tool so I can put the 40" lbs pressure on the belt as suggested. I know that is probably a little technical and not really necessary but I will do all that. I have plenty of time to do this auto and learn from it. If I can discover anything useful I will try and continue to post it here. I went into this blind so I am very appreciative for the videos. I could never have attempted it even though I am relatively mechanically inclined. This Mitsibishi engine is a marvel in many respects but with some major weaknesses as well. Lord! The sparkplugs? I had to see a video to even know where to start looking.

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

I think you will be fine. You can use a pair of needle nose pliers to set the manual tensioner if you don’t want to buy the tool.

[@jerryburleson8604]

@@fyireviewsandhowtos3118 That manual tensioner will go clockwise or counterclockwise. At this point I am assuming counterclockwise is correct. Gosh! This is like Nasa. I need hand held by mission control in Houston. 😆

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

@@jerryburleson8604 the manual tensioner will tighten the belt either way you turn it but there is only one correct way. If you tighten it the wrong way it will allow the belt to loosen. It has been a long time since I done this video so I have forgotten which way is correct but the Aisin kit I used came with instructions that told the correct way.

[@TheTraveler2222]

How many Kms travelled does it need before a timing belt replacement?

[@kevbecker672]

80k

[@fyireviewsandhowtos3118]

For the belt I installed it is 60,000 miles.