2005 Mazda 3 Fuel Pump Replacement: Part 2 - Fuel Pump and Tank Replacement

Part 2 of the series showing how to remove the fuel pump, replace the fuel pump, replace the tank, and then verify fuel pressure.
AutoZone has the tool for the pump. It's called the Fuel Pump Replacement Kit. Part Number: 27160

[@eddiethomas9718]

I just finished up our 2008 3 fuel pump replacement following this video series. In my case, I NEEDED the mentioned "special service tool" that was made in part 1. Harbor Freight has the exact size mentioned in the video and worked perfectly with a little arm strength. There was no way in hell I was getting off the evap lines at the charcoal canister and the top of the fuel tank. Maybe others will have success at pinching the plastic connectors together, but I did not. Also, the master disconnect set auto zone has available for rent only allowed me to disconnect the front 2 evap lines, it was no help for the back 2. Hope this helps someone else. 3 days after the install, all evap codes are cleared and check engine light is off. Thank you Baxrok2 for this upload!

[@azraelzx5269]

Replacing my fuel tank here soon this video definitely helps out a lot!

[@MrRain-hk4zi]

Nice detail. I see by the number of views that this is a common problem. Thanks.

[@vince_only_way_is_up]

Great video making skills and work .Also, you can use tin snips to cut to top off the fuel tank behind the seat, this saves you taking all of it out. Need to cover it later.

[@karlniedzielski12]

So you just cut the opening wide so you did not have to drop the tank?

[@casanovaevren]

I have the exact same tank.08 mazda3.so i like to share a few experience .first of all.there is no need to mess with the evap lines they can all stay attached.just drop the tank down enough on the jack.u ll have enough room to use the tool.secondly i used my torque wrench just because i had it.ring split in half.plastic looses its quality over the time.just make it tight as long as the gasket is new it ll seal.my problem fuel pump itself had a crack in the middle .thanks for video .it helped!

[@wyattoneable]

Car manufactures these days are crazy with there pricing. I get so aggravated at the insane practice of ripping us off but what can you do? You had some good tips along the way to help save money so thanks for that. I don't own a Mazda but I'm sure this video will be a big help to some people. You got a Vantage Pro? Your my new hero! We like seeing rest pressure! Good job.

[@baxrok2.]

That is a very interesting observation Wyatt. This is an expensive job to have done. I'd say roughly $1200 at the dealer. I did it for only the price of the pump at $280! (not including the pressure gage and adapter I bought) The intention of the video is exactly what you mentioned, to help others save a few bucks and to have the satisfaction of doing it themselves. Yes, I got a Vantage a couple of months ago based on a recommendation from Ivan. Heck yeah, resting pressure should be the alternate name of this video! Thanks!

[@wyattoneable]

If Ivan said that's the one you need I'd follow his lead for sure. We have some smart guys to help us out. I love my old Vantage (I just bought) and I may upgrade some day but I want to be sure I have some experience under my belt first.

[@baxrok2.]

Old or new, any Vantage is a great tool to have for sure. You are so right about those smart guys, we are lucky indeed.

[@w.v.1833]

Thanks for posting. I know someone said the quick disconnect only needed pushed down, contrary to using the tools you recommended. That might be true if they are new. Like you said, the quick disconnect is nearly impossible to take off without some creativity, or a cutting tool lol. I wished people just said thank you. Though, if they didn't say is was possible to just pushed and pull I would not have tried. Now I know that does not work.

[@henzik]

Great video. We replaced our fuel pump + ring the other week, but when connection the lower fuel line (Going from the pump down) to the metal fuel line it is leaking. We even bought an a new lower fuel line, but it is still leaking. Any idea what could be causing it to leak?

[@jorgeperez-hy9vi]

One other thing that's coming is for the public in general for your safety so you don't die while you're attempting it changing of your pump make sure that anything that you're wearing does not absorb any of the the gasoline because it will stay combustible even after you walk away from the vehicle if there's somebody with a cigarette or lighten a fire you could be a potential burning hazard that's all thank you

[@jsingle5583]

hope to have the tank out in the next week or 2. I'll let you know how it goes

[@blazonemore2]

You can replace just the pump. And you an take it out without dropping the tank. Just make the hole bigger. It's common practice on the ms3 model

[@baxrok2.]

Well, yeah, but where's the fun it that! lol

[@marcounchained]

to be clear. what method do you use to make a hole bigger? dropping the gas tank seems like such a hassle and i would much rather make a bigger hole as well

[@FFGamer077]

@@marcounchained You'd have to cut a hole out. Not sure with what exactly safely, but someone made a video on doing it. However, I find that damaging your Cars body to swap it out while easier, is permanent damage unless you weld it shut afterwards.

[@w.v.1833]

I would not recommend making a bigger hole. Seriously I wouldn't. You will end of with a cad which cabin is not sealed, and could under some conditions let carbone monoxide in and kill the passengers. Might sound extreme but is a possibility. I dropped my tank and it was not that bad. Did all the work in one afternoon. I recomend getting the right tools. Amazon sells the lid wrench and the quick disconnect tools for cheap. Not need to struggle. Had I started with the right tools it would have been a 2hr job.

[@Andy_Kay]

Awesome…..thank you for the great info….Andy

[@jorgeperez-hy9vi]

Please don't take this as negative feedback I thank you for putting a video on and appreciate it. But because of the safety of getting burned by the fuel I'm going to say this I think the fuel pump is accessible through the back bottom of the seat the back seat where you put put their ass on. And please someone correct me if I'm wrong I might be wrong but I think I'm pretty sure that's in the backseat like all standard cars except SUVs don't have no access to the inside or vents please correct me if I'm wrong

[@Align700nitro]

Mazda design the car to f@@k people, Yes, there is a hole in the back seat, but just not big enough to take the pump out from there.

[@johnforehand8264]

I have a fuel pump that's on its way and was wondering if it matters you think if the lid does not have the notch? The pump I'm getting says it's going to fit. The lid is rounded without the notch.

[@tousshong9438]

I would just break those tap out...I'm sure that locking ring is not going to loose in the future. That locking ring tool is poorly design as well because all the force in on the center and you got no torque on each end of the tool to creat down force and then turns at the same times. LOL Thanks for sharing

[@coryblanton]

Thanks

[@Andy_Kay]

Hello, I really enjoy your videos on the Mazda 3. Would mind sending the link to your video where you create a jumper relay to drain the gas tank using the fuel pump? I have a full take of bad gas that I need to drain I can’t seem to siphon the gas out. Thanks, Andy

[@baxrok2.]

I never posted that video. It's super easy though. There are two ways. One is to hard wire and jump the contacts with a jumper wire. (There are a ton of videos on YT showing how to do it.) I don't like that way though. For more control I do it this way. Take the fuel pump relay apart. Put it back in the fuse box. Inside the relay you'll see the contacts. With the key on, car not running, squeeze the relay with your fingers to make the contacts touch and the fuel pump will run. Pretty sure you have to hold it to keep it running. Be prepared since fuel will be flowing right away. I used an old spare relay from the junkyard. Good luck and be careful as playing with fuel and open contacts is dangerous.

[@otiswise]

It appears you can just leave the evap line thats connected to the tank and just undo the one to the canister? Im not seeing why the one above the tank needed to be undone?

[@jefffontenot4551]

I was unable to disconnect the hoses on the back. I had to lift the car, higher than I wanted, and drop the front part of the tank. there I was able to access this filter as it laid at an angle.

[@baxrok2.]

It's definitely a tight spot to get into.

[@Arkadietza]

Hello, Nice video. Could you please share is there any fuel filter and how can be changed? Thank you in advance.

[@vince_only_way_is_up]

behind the right rear wheel. You will need to take wheel off and reach under.

[@stephanmoney7493]

An you tell where's the fuel pressure regulator?

[@franciscobetancourt7954]

Looking for fuel filter plus fuel pump mazda axela 1.5 year 2012 Comes complete with pump, mounts to fuel tank.

[@RVLPHIEBOI]

Hey man so I just pulled the fuel tank out of my 06 Mazda 3 because when I filled it up the fuel would come pouring out of the top of the tank. When I had it off there was a crazy about of sealant around the fuel pump retaining ring. After removing the ring and noticed it wasn’t cracked, or the oring. Could the tank itself be cracked?

[@baxrok2.]

Yeah, definitely possible. Or the pump itself could be cracked as well as any of the lines etc.

[@BenDover-cx3ws]

Would you have any idea why a new pump would be showing the wrong fuel level? The fuel gauge is saying I'm empty when I still have ~1/2 a tank. This is after a new fuel pump has been installed.

[@baxrok2.]

Possibly the wrong fuel pump was installed, or the arm and float on the pump came loose during the installation, also it's possible that the sending unit is defective. Those are just some possibilities. Finally, verify power and ground at the pump and also if you have a scan tool verify gage operation on dashboard gage.

[@rygonjinn8063]

Why don't you show anything with the EVAP and fuel lines under the car??? That's exactly what I'm trying to replace on my car and I would have liked to see exactly how they work.

[@baxrok2.]

Well, you should watch part one then! Plus, I'm talking about them and showing them at the very beginning of this video. There isn't much more to see!

[@rygonjinn8063]

Baxrok2 I did watch part 1. I still don't recall you actually disconnecting them. I could be wrong though.

[@baxrok2.]

You are most definitely wrong sir. I show everything in detail and talk about a tool I made to get them off. Turns out you don't need the tool, just your bare hands. I mention that detail in the description. I even made a separate video on that!

[@rygonjinn8063]

Baxrok2 I'm beginning to think we're talking about 2 separate things. I watched the video again. I wasn't wrong. But I'm not going to bother you any further about it.

[@baxrok2.]

Okay, hope you get it fixed.

[@nelriic]

Hello, first of al great video... Really happy to see this posted. Anyway I have the exact same car as you and I had my smoke tested by a mechanic today to find out why my car has a check engine light on for the code P0441--P0455-Evaporative Emission System Incorrect Purge Flow. The mechanic checked the purge solenoid valve and saw no obvious concerns. After running the pressure/smoke test he noticed the smoke was leaking from above the fuel tank... He said that my car either had a crack in the fuel tank, a damaged fuel pump, or a hose that could be damaged. I'm wondering if you have any knowledge on the code I'm getting and how to identify if any hoses above the fuel tank could be damage. Also how do you know if the fuel pump is damaged. I'm assuming smoke must of been coming out because of a crack in either the hose, fuel pump, or tank... Thank you for your help.

[@baxrok2.]

I think your mechanic is moving in the right direction. If the smoke test shows leaks above the tank then it could be coming from any of the three lines or points where the lines connect to the tank that you see in the video. There are even more potential leak spots in that area that are not shown in my video. Regarding the pump, I think that he probably means that the pump housing or gasket could be cracked and causing the leak. Of course, the tank itself could indeed be cracked. The problem here is that if your mechanic did all he could to trace the leak and he thinks that it's above the tank then the tank has to come down for further inspection.

[@nelriic]

Okay sounds great. Thanks for such a quick reply. Sub'd and gave the video a thumbs up. I'm gonna go ahead and drop the tank along with a friend that works on cars. Hopefully I find the broken piece and the check engine light goes away.

[@baxrok2.]

One thing you might do first, or have your mechanic do is remove the back seat and the cover over the fuel pump. Look at the top of the pump, the retaining ring, and o-ring for obvious problems. Good luck!

[@nelriic]

Thank you, one more question. Where can I purchase the ring lock for the fuel pump and the o-ring. I've tried auto zone and o'riley and didn't get any luck with both of those stores. I want to know in case it is needed.

[@baxrok2.]

Unfortunately, I've never seen the ring, o-ring, or locking ring anywhere else but at the dealer or a junkyard. $150 dollars for those items at my local dealer! Practically free at the junkyard.

[@4loboazul]

I have to keep my Mazda 6 accelerated at traffic lights if it does not turn off, some advice

[@baxrok2.]

Well, I'd start with checking for any engine codes as that would give you some direction. Easy visual inspections would be: look for large vacuum leaks, check for any intake restrictions, look around the engine bay for anything unusual. Finally, you'd want to check fuel pressure as well since if it's stalling the pressure might be low.

[@dylanldelisi144]

What brand fuel pump did you use or ia the best to buy?

[@baxrok2.]

I bought a Carter from RockAuto. Good balance of price and quality.

[@jsingle5583]

You have any video of the actual pump? Getting ready to drop my tank and just do a pump swap not the whole unit like you posted in the vid.

[@baxrok2.]

Not sure what you mean. The pump is one unit, I don't believe that it can be taken apart to just swap out the pump motor itself. I've not seen the pump motor sold separately either. It might be, but I've never see it or seen a video of anyone doing it. Let us know if it's possible.

[@normcook9335]

@@baxrok2. Pump is sold separately for my 2007 Mazda 3, I've ordered one from Rockauto. I got the tank out but broke the top cap plastic fuel line. :| I thought the unit spun together with ring.

[@baxrok2.]

@@normcook9335 Good job, you're half way there!

[@normcook9335]

@@baxrok2. It's been quite a chore ... the car died in July and I haven't gotten around to fixing. It has 375K KM's (233K miles) on it so the pump was probably due to fail. :)

[@baxrok2.]

@@normcook9335 Yup, it was due for sure.

[@fernandosalazar1011]

82 FOOT Pounds 😳😳 or did you mean inch pounds

[@baxrok2.]

Per the manual: 82 FT-LBF. 🤣

[@danpettis1675]

I think you did before because you didn't clean out your tank

[@garofalo1707]

Is it the same process for 2007 mazda 3

[@baxrok2.]

Yes.

[@garofalo1707]

Baxrok2 thanks

[@BrianFlores213]

I can't find that tool to remove the fuel pump anywhere

[@baxrok2.]

Either Advance Auto or AutoZone should have one you can borrow.

[@BrianFlores213]

Baxrok2 do you what it's called exactly? Cause I went to advanced auto parts and he said they didn't have one for a Mazda 3 or Japanese cars is what he said.

[@baxrok2.]

AutoZone has them. Fuel pump replacement kit. Part Number: 27160

[@BrianFlores213]

Baxrok2 okay thank you