2006 Kawasaki ZX6R Gas Cap Seized! Fix and replacement!

So my gas cap got stuck. This is everything I did to get into the tank, and me replacing the cap with a keyless cap.
KEYLESS CAP!
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[@gammonhead2433]

NO NEW CAP AND NO DAMAGE! How I resolved the seized fuel cap on a 2012 KAWASAKI ER6n. The barrel was seized hard. You need to sacrifice a spare key to do it, but it's quite easy. 1. Do the obligatory pumping of WD40, or other penetrating oil, down the barrel. FLOOD IT!! It's always good if you can do this and leave it to soak down as far as it will go for a while. 2. Place the chosen key in the lock and observe where it should be sheared off so that the sheared end will be BELOW the top of the barrel leaving room for a nicely fitting flat screwdriver tip to enter the key slot above the broken tip. Having flooded the barrel with WD40 already, the milky mix of corrosion and WD40 told me where this height was...just like a dip stick. 3. Using a vice, bull nose pliers, mole grips or other suitable tool, break off the tip of your sacrificial key at your chosen height. 4. Push the tip that you broke off into the barrel so that, as such, the cap is now unlocked i.e. the lock itself is no longer stopping the cap from opening. 5. Push a nice square snugly fitting flat screwdriver tip into the barrel and onto the back of the broken key tip. 6. Now that you have that extra force available to you with the screwdriver, work that barrel hard with the screwdriver to free up whatever it is that is seized - locking wings or (in my case) just the seized lug head / tip that sits below the bottom of the barrel. This should allow you to turn the lock and finally open the cap with the necessary force that the key was never gonna allow you. 7. Remove the three bolts (out of the five) that actually secure the cap's outer ring to the tank. These are the front-centre one and the two either side of the hinge at the back. Now you are free to take the cap to your workshop or whatever to strip down the cap and refurbish it having avoided any destroying of the cap or damage to your fuel tank. Now for the strip down! CAUTION: There are, as you would expect, springs that are about to leap out and have you on your hands and knees staring and swearing at the floor in this next bit! Have some kind of container or two to hand to collect the parts that you are about to "discover" and keep them in order for easy reassembly. There are two screws on the bottom of the cap (normally inside the tank) that retain the interior cap assembly AND LOTS OF SPRINGS. A. With the cap upside down on your bench (on a rag if you don't wanna scratch it), remove the two screws, keeping pressure on the bottom so that the assembly doesn't spring apart. THERE IS A SPRING WAITING TO POP OUT FROM BETWEEN THE WINGS! B. Carefully remove the locking "wings" part, containing it carefully, while leaving the plate and plastic "top hat" its rubber collar in place for a moment. Carefully unload the spring from between the locking "wings" and stash the parts in your tray(s) while making a note of the holes, locating lugs and which way around the plate sits. C. Lift it off and I think you will see 6 short springs around the filler cap and 2 either side of the filler cap hinge. Having removed the "top hat" with its rubber collar that is actually the thing that seals your tank shut, you'll now see two sophisticated black plastic bits in holes either side of the barrel way. One is circular and one is a teardrop shape. I left the round one alone with no trouble but the teardrop shaped one has a removable top revealing very tiny raised points on its inner side, which holds in a small white opaque disc. Don't lose it! NOTE: There are two sophisticated black plastic bits in holes either side of the barrel assembly. One is circular and one is a teardrop shape. I left the round one alone with no trouble but the teardrop shaped one has a removable top revealing very tiny raised points on its inner side, which holds in a small white opaque disc. Don't lose anything! D. Carefully remove the countersink screws to reveal a strangely complicated rubber seal with several channels running around the cap centre. E. In the centre (UK) center (US) :D, you will see what is actually the barrel end cap with 2 round lugs and a rubber seal around it sunken into the housing. This just pulls out with the right kind of pliers so just go ahead and remove that without damaging it. Don't try to remove the key barrel itself, it shouldn't be necessary. F. If, as I found, your "locking wings" are clean and your barrel assembly is the thing that's corroded and seizing, you will now need to clean or wash out (with WD40) from both sides, all and any milky grey gunge that is the WD40 that you squirted in earlier mixed with corrosion. G. Once there's no more milky grey gunge, just dab and dry out the cap as much as possible. NOW TO REMOVE THE SACRIFICIAL KEY! What you need to do now is to make your own “special tool” or lock pick, that is, a slim something that has teeth or lumps that will grip the side of the sheared off key when you slip it down the barrel beside it. I used a long wood screw that I ground off on a grinder wheel on three sides until it was an impressive looking slither with teeth made from what used to be the thread ground off to only one side. H. Slip your special tool down beside the sheared of piece of key with the teeth facing it until you grip it enough to see that you can lift it. If you can, carefully drag out the key piece NOTE: You may find that, because you have a cap design that doesn’t let you take the key out while the cap is open, the key piece is still blocked in. In this case, locate the small square key door looking piece that’s looming over the key piece on one side of the barrel. Now, using something like a very small screwdriver or a bradawl, rotate the barrel with it while keeping pressure on the little square piece until it yields and allows you to drag the key piece out. I. From the inside / underside of the cap, start firmly thumbing in some standard mechanic's grease into the barrel hole until it oozes out around the key barrel on the outside / top. J. If you're happy it's all the way through, you've thoroughly re-greased your barrel assembly and it's working like a dream with a whole key inserted, clean the excess grease from the top and inside the bottom so you can replace the lug-end cap with its rubber seal and reassemble. K. Now put everything back together the way you took it apart and refit the cap to the tank! That's how I did it. GOOD LUCK! :D

[@shihaabmohammed2623]

Thank you for the effort of commenting this

[@Ttking1018]

Dude mine wouldn’t budge I spent like 30 min a day for a week trying different things not wanting to break a key, I used wd40, pb blaster, and liquid wrench. None of these worked for me. I then used vinegar and let it soak into the lock over night and I had to press on it and wiggle it a lot but it finally came free and now it works like a champ. I don’t even need to replace it. Patience is the key to opening a seized fuel cap. I am so happy I didn’t have to buy another gas cap

[@smc_pilot5314]

Thanks for posting your video Shocker. I'm refurbing a 2009 KLR650 for sale soon and started on the fuel system on Sunday. Much to my dismay I couldn't get the gas cap lock to disengage. The key would turn around 25 degrees and just stop. Gotta admit, researching the issue online did not give me much hope. After watching this video and at least six more last night I started the WD40, tapping, and key rotation methods to slowly work this nightmare out of my life. At the same time I was Googling stuff like "how to give your bike that needs work to someone who'll appreciate it". After work this afternoon I had two sacrificial keys made, which happen to be thinner than my two stock keys. I'm done with the WD40 part, like Shocker says, WD40 don't reach those stupid stuck tabs that are protruding below the lip of the fuel tank opening. Now my focus is to see how much torque I can apply to these new keys. Honestly, my plan was to remove the tank tomorrow morning and perform the upside down apple cider vinegar treatment on those stuck tabs. Remember, every attempt at turning a sacrificial key is proceeded by light tapping. I used a short 2x4 piece of wood and a standard claw hammer to tap the cap from the top and the sides, with tapping on the head of key included in between. I could tell that the cap was starting to develop some play and could actually press down on it slightly from all sides. I could see that my tumbler's key slit was getting a little wider and realized that I could get a small flat tip screwdriver wedged into the key slit with the (now bent) key. Sensing my opportunity, I tapped the screwdriver into the slit lightly with the claw hammer and used a small set of channel locks to turn the key, screwdriver, and the tumbler to the right 100 degrees. Walla, I'm done with this nightmare. Step one, remove the stupid stock cap and throw it in the box for sale with the KLR in a few weeks. There's no way that sucker's going back on that tank while I'm the owner. I currently have a rag in the fuel cap opening until I decide which NON-LOCKING replacement fuel cap I'm going to buy. Anyway, thanks again for everyone for contributing to my success. Good luck to everyone still having the issue. PS: I lubed the heck out of my 2017 R1's fuel cap after this experience and noticed that it's got one of those hidden screws Shocker used as a work around. Believe me, the location of that screw is in my memory bank forever.

[@vfrav8r]

Greetings, here is solution number 9, turn the gas tank upside down (fuel lubes the seized flippers) and if you can't do that, tip the bike over as far as safely possible . This cap I just did sat for 8 years- solid.

[@zakhawkins4289]

Just sorted a mate who had no fuel and couldn't get in his tank, thanks for the video, genuinely helped me prepare and go into the problem with the right plan. LEGEND!

[@shockerct4433]

Glad it could help!

[@derekcoffey4317]

Thanks bro as long ago as this video was you just saved my ass so thank you

[@jonathancarre9157]

Same 😂😂😂

[@timbabeu2005]

I used a combination of these tactics. I have a 1994 Ninja 250. I tried wiggling the key, soaked it with PB Blaster... The cylinder felt like it was moving like 1/16 turn, so it's the tabs. I put my key in, and with my left hand I pressed down a little on the lid and kept a little constant torque on the key, like I was trying to turn it. With my right hand, I kept whacking the lid with a claw hammer (1994 Ninja 250, so I did not care about marring the lid). After a half dozen whacks, the key started to turn. It would turn just a little bit more each whack. In less than a minute, the lid opened.

[@Sul33]

Appreciate the vid, I plan on helping a friend with the same issue. Might I recommend you remove those metal shavings before they get into your tank and cause damage.

[@shockerct4433]

They were indeed removed :)

[@Ttking1018]

You are the man for putting this video up thank you!

[@Snappie88]

Thanks man! Daytona 675 here, was spraying it with WD40 and whatnot, in the end I followed your advice and started wigling together with some banging with a hammer, opened up!

[@shockerct4433]

Nick Snapper that’s great! Glad it worked out!

[@deannegraham2294]

I was able to get mine off 🙌Thank you for the video and tips!!👍

[@shockerct4433]

Deanne Graham glad it worked out!

[@morganlevally5429]

Thanks. Appreciate the video

[@teotwawki1101]

I ended up drilling out my lock. I was able to pick the lock so I didn't have to bend a key, but then the strength of the screwdriver broke the two nubs on the end of the tumbler that open those two wings. I had to drill a bit lower than the key normally goes into the lock and use needle nose pliers to pull the wings in. No metal shavings got into my gas tank or anything. I replaced it with the same cap that you did. Unfortunately, I now have a problem that appears to be similar to vapor locking. My fuel light won't come on, but my bike will lose power. If I open the cap and close it again then I can start the bike and it runs fine until it actually runs out of gas. This has driven me to purchase a new tank cap but it didn't come with the lock so I have to buy the lock cylinder separate.

[@shockerct4433]

KZbin for some reason didn't notify me of your comment, I'm sorry it has taken me this long! It's possible when you were putting your tank back on (how it henges near the seat) you could have smooshed some of the overflow/breather tubes. This actually happened to me with my old gas cap, the stock one that is. My new cap is still doing good, no real issues so far. I hope you figured out your issue! Sorry again it took this long for a response!

[@seanromero5379]

Have the same problem now. Going to try and fight the cap to get it open

[@shockerct4433]

It was a rough day lol

[@budgiecat2885]

I have a 2007 ZX6R and I removed the cap myself and installed a keyless gas cap but a year later now I had a starter motor replacement job to do so the mechanic informed me while he was doing it, that there was water in the gas tank. So he said he's "100% sure its the fault of your aftermarket fuel cap. I have other customers with those that have problems I dont like them". But I'm trying to read up on these and I dont see any issues popping up in old forums about leaky keyless caps so I dunno I told him to bleed the filler cap line to see if that might be the issue of a compromised clogged line but he checked and said its fine. Last year another mechanic I used, did tell me to be on the lookout for a replacement gas tank though as he said theres a slight leak on the bottom side but its very minor; not sure if water would get in there but he said he didnt notice anything like that since he refueled the bike so now im confused.Maybe I just bought a faulty aftermarket keyless cap? I heard even the Vortex ones might give problems like that

[@shockerct4433]

I have had no water issues yet (knock on wood) and my bike has even had to live outside for a year or two with the keyless cap. I can see how water under very perfect conditions could get under it. But it seems pretty solid

[@budgiecat2885]

@@shockerct4433 Well I picked up the bike and they showed me not only my gas that they took out and put in a milk carton, but someone elses bike as well (a Yamaha R1) which also had a keyless cap, and his gas was nasty dirty colored while mine was clearer but had about a quart of water sitting at the bottom of the milk container. Then I went home and took it off and replaced it with my old OEM. I also poured some water over the keyless cap which I held in my hand to test it and yeah, you could see water dripping through the cap so it def is compromised. Its an aftermarket one and so was the Yamaha one, but I did read one guy on a forum complain about his Vortex and those run like $130 while I paid about $25 for my knockoff I guess. Bad seal. I noticed the OEM has a fatter seal on it than the aftrermarket and the aftermarket has 2 seals, the second one kinda just sat there not on the bottom but my water test passes through the first part anyway and the cap kinda wobbles which the mechanic pointed out. But he just doesnt like ANY keyless caps period regardless of the brand. Since the small key seal on the OEM corroded, I should prob test that one too with my water test. $130 is a lot of money for a keyless cap imo so I wonder how reliable they really are. I really dont want to walk around with 2 keys though if I get another OEM cap.. Whats the brand you have again?

[@normangettys76]

Mine is frozen,going to get a few keys made and try it

[@a1081042]

I just ordered that kit, I have no time to screw with the potential problems that keyed lock could cause.

[@shockerct4433]

I love my Keyless cap. I think I might be paranoid if I lived in the city someone could mess with it. But my bike lives in my garage so it’s worth imo

[@coreyhickman9082]

Lol have the same exact bike as you and the same thing happened in like 2017 also got the same replacement haha but I’m looking at the vortex cap now

[@shockerct4433]

My only complaint is it’s a little tricky to put back on with gloves on. But at least I know it will always come off!

[@BC-hb1cn]

Where did u get ur extra keys from?

[@shockerct4433]

I just took the original key to a lock Smith and they made me a few copies

[@Sloppyyjoe]

What type of gas cap did you get I cant find one to fit my o5 Kawasaki 636

[@shockerct4433]

Inked_up412 tv link to the cap is in the description :)

[@halllwd94]

I was dealing with the wiggling for a couple months... Then I broke my first key. Now I have no way to get into my tank. I'm at the drilling step. Should be getting my lock off tomorrow.

[@shockerct4433]

Good lock! It is a stressful time!

[@reedist]

i am in the same boat. did you get it removed and how

[@halllwd94]

@@reedist I didn't. I ended up selling it because a guy really wanted it. So I let him deal with it. You can just pry it out though if you're not going to replace it with a keyed cap. Just make sure you clean the tank out after in case and metal shavings get in there

[@northernmotion090]

Longest frikkin video to say: wiggle the key.

[@shockerct4433]

If you do a quick google, that is what it will say. I wanted to show EVERYTHING I did, so yes, long video. You are welcome

[@docimastic]

Sugar does not dissolve in gasoline, So putting sugar in a car or motorcycle or lawn mower, etc gas tank, often will clog the fuel filter, but it will not harm the engine. That's an old wives tale. Or old mechanics tale. lol

[@SkraevAI]

did you find and capture bigfoot? asking for a friend...(;

[@shockerct4433]

Unfortunately I did not lol

[@bryansanders6367]

Hiiii lol

[@JC-ur7vx]

The moral of the story when you first have a problem with it couple of drops is 3 in 1 oil