2006 Mazda 6 3.0L Plugs, Gaskets, Seals, Tensioner, Etc,.

[@flyinbrian5437]

This is the best most informative video for this job I've seen. You're a legend.

[@ListlessSpectre]

I bought a 2005 Mazda 6 and have become very familiar with it and these cars are no doubt a pain in the ass to work on. They take the engine and drop it in, and then string up 15 miles worth of shit around it in a place where the engine barely fits as it is. I love this car, but if the engine goes, I'm sending it to a crusher.

[@baxrok2.]

Yup, but when you stomp the pedal in 4th gear to pass some slow poke, it's temporarily worth all of the trouble! lol

[@pascaljr09]

Thank you for the link for the ocv /vvt seals! Ordered them last year. Doing these front bank today. You're the best

[@pjjones5708]

Thanks for your unselfish info and time you spent on this video!

[@baxrok2.]

You are very welcome. That's exactly why I made the video, to help people. Thanks!

[@wyattoneable]

Hi John, good to see you post again. If someone has this car you certainly helped them! A good excuse to use your scan tool. The links were a good idea too.

[@baxrok2.]

Thank you sir!

[@chrisandes5762]

I would have never thought to lower the engine. Thats insane, just spent a day trying to figure it out. Thank you so much and my wallet thanks you!

[@baxrok2.]

Glad you got it done. Congrats!

[@randym119]

That 3.0 is absolutely shoehorned in there. I've been looking for info on the OCV seals forever - they're currently rigged up with RTV. Thanks for sharing all this info!!!

[@baxrok2.]

Hell yeah it is! Good luck!

[@randym119]

@@baxrok2. Got them in perfectly!

[@baxrok2.]

@@randym119 Good job. Congrats!

[@andrewholmblad4866]

You really know your stuff. Thanks a ton for sharing. You've really nailed the repair and replacement process for all these and I appreciate your tips and warnings. Thanks Soo much

[@dremf84]

Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for sharing!

[@FSRuziel]

if you guys are going through the trouble of all this and do most of the work on your car, you should consider doing an EGR reroute, &TB bypass. i did that on mine and it is so much easier to remove the intake manifold/plenum and best of all i dont break lines when i take it off. if you are interested on doing this mazda6 club has great step by step guides on doing this

[@Badgertronix]

Lots of great information. Thanks for sharing!

[@baxrok2.]

Thank you!

[@LindseyWalt]

Very well explained. Thank you very much!!

[@EXOVCDS]

Good tips! It sucks when stuff breaks while doing a repair... nice that it didn't hold things up for you!

[@baxrok2.]

Thanks Thomas!

[@squadman3376]

That darn T.....Broke twice....ended up using a brass plumbing T. My valve cover leaks at the corner by the water pump pulley, so new valve cover is next. Txs.

[@baxrok2.]

Yup, brass is the way to go.

[@mufasa3168]

Outstanding video!

[@nfarnell1]

I have about 186,000 km on my 2004 Mazda 6 3.0 and have changed everything by the book Mileage. I have recently heard a whistling sound from the front of the engine. I am going tackle the idlers and belt. The Alternator scares me a bit, changing it appears to be quite the job. Anyway thks for your advice and taking the time to put it out there.

[@baxrok2.]

Yeah, that alternator does not look like a pleasant job! If you change yours, make a video with all of the tips and tricks!

[@JohnBoulding]

Cut the egr tube off with 3 quarters as a template. There's a write up on mazda forums. It helps the AF numbers on the rear bank. Bypass you coolant lines by t ing them together.

[@kyhomegarage3430]

Great tips sir. I am sure it will be helpful in future. Cheers

[@baxrok2.]

Thanks!

[@benbellaturayturay7438]

thank you for your information

[@L__Y]

Did you find any of your cam cap bolts noticeably loose? Did they move much when you torqued them? Edit: just saw your other comment from a month ago saying not loose, thanks Fwiw 5-6 hours is mighty impressive. Took me 4 hours just to replace the water pump and belt, although I’m probably as slow as it gets

[@baxrok2.]

No, didn't find a single problem or loose anything. Car only had around 75kmi at the time. I didn't do the water pump, I just did the belt. The water pump job is a real pain. You did well to do it in four hours. I'm at 150kmi now, still on original water pump.

[@rj8954]

Thanks for the video. I bought the replacement OCV seal from Twisted Tuning. However, my old OCV seal torn apart. The outer ring stuck on the valve cover. Any suggestion to get that sucker out?

[@baxrok2.]

Use a thin screwdriver, punch, or pick to knock it out from the inside. Or, bend down the edges from the top so you can grab it with pliers to pull it out. Be careful not to damage the valvecover to prevent leaks. You can do it!

[@rj8954]

​@@baxrok2. Knocking from the inside with a thin screwdriver worked beautifully! Thank you! In your video you also mentioned you see some oil on the middle valve cover bolts. Did you end up replacing those or simply changing the valve cover gasket resolved that problem for you as well?

[@baxrok2.]

@@rj8954 Just the gasket. I don't recall if it fixed the problem or not, it was quite a while ago.

[@at89able]

I done this same thing to my Mazada 6 ,I wanted to know more about that 4th hose. I do not recall 4 hoses. Can you be more specific about the 4 hose.

[@baxrok2.]

Under the throttle body. This guy shows it a couple of times around the 3 and 6 minute marks. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jWrFgX-JmtmUm8k

[@coffeefish]

You can remove the dipstick tube.

[@KBTV-cy5uv]

If you lift the back valve cover a bit after taking all the bolts off there's a 8mm holding the back oil control valve just undo it and walla it all comes right off I wouldn't lower your engine just for that

[@baxrok2.]

Are you talking about the OCV on the rear bank?

[@katherinehawk142]

KB Martinez thank u that is much easier

[@BillyNeal-ok4dy]

Does anyone have the seal number

[@ChicagoMillingCo.]

So where your cam shaft caps lose?

[@baxrok2.]

No.

[@jongener8941]

Where did you buy the VVT seals? I don't see the link

[@baxrok2.]

TwistedTuning.com

[@gabedeeter7335]

Me over here trying to get my water pump belt off and he just skips over that part like it wasnt a problem

[@baxrok2.]

Most auto parts stores loan a stretch belt installation tool. Alternatively, get the belt onto the big pulley as much as you can, then turn the engine over by hand with the crank pulley bolt. Also, this guy has an interesting idea but I've never tried it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJechpWXn8yJqrM

[@gabedeeter7335]

Baxrok2 i just can’t seem to find where my tensioner is located for that belt i just replaced my serpentine belt recently and every video i watch they already have the belly off and don’t show

[@baxrok2.]

@@gabedeeter7335 The tensioner should be very easy to find. The idler is a bit harder to find since it's set back under the rear cylinder head.

[@NewLevelAuto]

Hey bud do you have a known good cam to crank on this one by chance?

[@baxrok2.]

New Level Auto No I haven't grabbed one yet but there are one or two inline. I'll search some for it tomorrow if it helps.

[@NewLevelAuto]

Baxrok2 it certainly would. Thanks so much

[@baxrok2.]

I'm embarrassed to say that after much searching I can't find that damn waveform. This is what happens when people don't use tags in their videos. I'll keep searching but do apologize for not coming up with it very promptly.

[@NewLevelAuto]

Baxrok2 no need to apologize brother , You're helping me out here

[@baxrok2.]

Searching for hours to no avail. I just can't find it. May I suggest calling Brian (fordtechmakuloco) since he might have one for a Duratec V6? I'll keep looking...

[@MPHMitch]

What was the torque spec on the cam carrier bolts

[@baxrok2.]

Range is 71-106 in-lbs. I did 85.

[@gsxellence]

These ocv are a definite pita, poor design lazy Mazda and Ford engineers.