Timing The Mazda/Ford 2.0/2.3/2.5 Engines. Part 1 - Is It Really That Hard?

[@possiblysmorf7059]

There is an insanely small amount of information on my car (1993 Mazda mx6) and you just made my life a million times easier as a 21 year old aspiring mechanic and lover of cars thank you sir

[@romainberger]

I really enjoyed the explanations about the overexpression of certain people. Very truthful!

[@tracybailey8670]

Thank you so much for sharing your video. I had the Ford dealership telling me I needed an engine when I knew it was just a burnt valve. Just got it going today with no problems with timing thanks to you my friend. 🍻

[@baxrok2.]

Well done!

[@bighilbili]

My cover cracked at the idle pulley for the serpentine. shop wanted a thousand dollars to replace the cover. I couldn't afford it. I'm so glad I found your videos .I wasn't ready for sure when I saw the tips and tools I thought I was over my head. I'm 63 and I worked on cars with distributors and timing mark :) . Before I took my balancer off after lining up my balancer with the bolt hole I put in a bolt to lock my shaft and a piece of strap metal to lock my cams . Removed the broken cover .replaced with a new one and lined up my balancer with the bolt hole did a light torque and pulled my stops out and rolled it to top dead center. My bolt hole lined up so I rolled it a couple of times to make sure. Thanks for the video. it helped plus a Chiltons

[@baxrok2.]

Congratulations on you diy fix! Savings big bucks and doing things right is what it's all about!

[@YouTubehndl]

I want to thank you for this 4 part series. My 2016 Ford Fusion with the 2.5 jumped time and died at a stop sign. Thanks to this video series I completely understood what I was doing when I replaced the components using the All Data DIY manual. As it turns out, it jumped time because it was missing a friction washer between the crankshaft and the sprocket. With the M6 bolt in the pulley hole the cams lined up but the engine was still another 10-15 degrees from hitting the TDC peg. I’m surprised that the engine didn’t blow up. One tip I have is to definitely use the flats on the camshaft that look like a bolt to keep it from rotating while torquing the gears down.

[@notfromromepope5109]

Thanks . I ignored the big sticker on the crank pulley then found why you shouldn't . I wish I marked it just for reference , DRAT! But your videos will safe me as it's a clients car and they are keen to get it bak.

[@baxrok2.]

Use the timing tools and make sure that the crankshaft doesn't back off the timing peg before tightening everything down. Good luck!

[@LweendoHamwendaHibeene]

Man thanks a lot for your video it's made me head machenic in our garage i really appreciate am the only one who timed it without bending the values. Thanks man

[@allannairne8642]

Very detailed in a Timely fashion God bless you

[@santanar79]

Thanks for the advice, and appreciate the time and advice about the people with negative comments

[@baxrok2.]

You're welcome!

[@Dodgeman19969]

On a 2011 ford fusion 2.5, I have 2 friction washer, do they stack up on the crankshaft or are they put in different space between the gear and the pulley

[@austinsmith7750]

Took forever to find this video. Like you said, no info on the situation. Thanks.

[@thadiusawala863]

Hi can I get a video on how to do valve timing on ford 2.0/2.3 with engine in the car?thanks

[@b_gumm]

Thank you for spreading knowledge and help further my education and understanding of these engines!!!!

[@hardenpt2522]

THANK YOU! I PULLED THE PULLEY AND THEN REALIZED THERE WAS NO KEY!!!

[@ChrisLaurent-or2dv]

ive watched all of your videos, thank you very much , great help. To my issue, did everything properly, and fired right up, well heres the bad, when i shut down the motor, i guess i didnt tighten the crank pully bolt tight enough. Well it through timing off, and valves hit pistons, just cranking it over, with starter. So im back to timing it, and hopefully i didnt bend any valves. any advice, lock tight crank pully bolt? What is torque spec on crank pully, oh , and i only had one of the paper thin washers behind it, if it matters.

[@baxrok2.]

Bummer. The crank pulley bolt is a torque to yield bolt so ideally you only use/tighten it once. That's recommended and that's what I did since it's probably the most important part for holding that damn pulley in place. It's been years since I did this but I'm pretty sure that I put the specs in the video. It's 75ftlbs and then another quarter turn, but definitely double check me before you do it again. Don't even think about starting the engine till you get that pulley bolt properly tightened! I think one washer is enough.

[@ChrisLaurent-or2dv]

@@baxrok2. where i failed the first time, is i was afraid to tighten bolt to much with that small ten mm bolt holding the crank pully... im going to torque it with thread locker on crank bolt. and one washer

[@baxrok2.]

@@ChrisLaurent-or2dv The 10mm bolt is not intended to hold the pulley against the final torque step, but rather to get the teeth on the pulley aligned with the crank sensor. You have to hold the pulley separately to get that final quarter turn. Don't skip it!

[@thomasdominguez7567]

Thank you so much!!! You made doing this so easy and without headache and most importantly peace of mind!! You are both a gentleman and a scholar. I am subscribed to your channel now needless to say. Thanks again

[@mikemotyer2348]

Timed the engine just like in video. Triple checked everything but a no spark no start after reassembly. Help!

[@EXOVCDS]

I didn't have your video upload notification enabled... sorry! I'll get to Part 2 later today (I'm currently editing some videos myself). Thanks for joining the chat yesterday!

[@baxrok2.]

No worries, I'm just talking in this one so not much good stuff for the pros. Although the beginning and end are pretty cool. lol The chat was an interesting experience. Thanks!

[@jeffcraddock1552]

Where did u get the timing tool at I got one from autozone but it’s not the right one for my engine, I need the one with the notches cut out

[@baxrok2.]

Can't remember where I got mine from but you can easily find them by searching Mazda Timing Tools 2.3. Here's one I found: www.amazon.com/DEF-Camshaft-Alignment-Replacement-Duratec/dp/B08B5MC3TS/ref=asc_df_B08B5MC3TS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459647904235&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6678004880653794665&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015676&hvtargid=pla-1014249435087&psc=1

[@mrfixitdellacertifiedfield5376]

Great instructions one of the best explained videos i have seen Thanks !!

[@mtsanchez27]

Hi sir, can it be done while the engine is still in the car?

[@baxrok2.]

Yes sir. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iWaxq36adrZnn6s

[@mtsanchez27]

@@baxrok2. thank you very much for your help sir!!!

[@HotRodCustomz]

Finally finished my 2.3/2.5 swap. The patient was a 2007 Mazda 3 S GT and donor a 2.5 2011 Mazda block from LKQ with 75k on the clock. I made a Insta for the project @ Bailey Motor Swaps. Your videos were very helpful and besides some torn lower control arm ball joint boots, everything runs great. I discovered probably why the 75k motor was on a shelf for me to buy. The timing seemed about 5-10 degrees off like they tried to time it without using the bar holding the cams. The crank was at the timing peg but both cams were equally off, maybe the variable intake timing mechanism was unsprung without the bar holding them?

[@baxrok2.]

Congratulations! Yes, I think that even a small amount of timing change can cause the engine to run poorly. Timing without the tools is not a good idea!

[@Xmech-id6ol]

Were the engineer that designed this engine American or Canadian.

[@5jjt]

Thanks for putting time and effort into this video because we're about to own a 2004 Focus w/ a 2.3L, and probably needs a new belt. In the rust belt, BTW. Any parts besides a water pump & belt(s) we might want on hand while the engine is accessed?

[@baxrok2.]

The engines that I cover in my videos are the later generation which have a timing chain. There are plenty of timing belt videos on your particular timing belt engine however.

[@roanhorse3216]

So the timing cover on my focus 2.3 was damaged so I replaced it and didn't realize that it was a keyless cam... I didn't even think about it and just slapped the pulley back in and the car didn't start. I later found my fault. Will this completely ruin the engine? Once I took off the crank pulley and and cover i didn't touch the timing chain or anything else.

[@baxrok2.]

Well, it's hard to say. Easiest thing to do is run through the timing procedure and see if it starts. If you don't want to do that, then you can do a cylinder leak down test on all cylinders to see if the valves got bent when you were trying to start it.

[@roanhorse3216]

Thanks. I went through the timing procedure. Just need to do the 1/4 turn and put everything back together and cross my fingers.

[@roanhorse3216]

It started!! Thanks for the videos

[@baxrok2.]

@@roanhorse3216 Congrats!

[@dgb5820]

Great video thank you for sharing

[@AaBb-zj2ld]

the pull starts only have three parts. wheel spring and rope. but that spring is wiley.

[@isaiahwelch8066]

Just letting people know: On the pre-2002 2.3l Lima and 2.5l 4-cylinders: THERE IS NO DANGER OF MISTIMING YOUR ENGINE. Why? Answer: Because the 1983-2001 2.3/2.5l engines are called "noninterference engines." What does this mean? Basically, in a nutshell, the valves and pistons never make contact with each other, even when the timing belt breaks. I own a 1992 Ford Ranger with a 2.3l Lima engine, and have replaced my timing belt multiple times. I've even changed head gaskets a time or two....and never once has there been any damage to piston or valve.

[@livealoha50f]

Isaiah Welch I should know - I started without time - nothing happened

[@davemetz9445]

2006 Ford Escape 2.3l I4 eighth digit "Z" Is this an interference motor? Tensioner failed, using air hose fitting applied air to cylinders which should have no open valves and air is escaping thru exhaust/intake manifold....

[@baxrok2.]

Yes, interference engine. Sorry.

[@davemetz9445]

@@baxrok2. yeah i am looking at heads now 600$

[@baxrok2.]

@@davemetz9445 Bummer.

[@davemetz9445]

@@baxrok2. I stripped the engine to the block. valves are bent to approx 1/4in gap at seat. piston shows slight ding in pre-depression area. timing gear on crank SPINS FREELY??? what the hell is going on with that?? so im not giving up on this car...

[@baxrok2.]

@@davemetz9445 These engines are keyless! That's why the crank pulley, etc, spins. That's the point of my entire video series. Sorry bout your engine. Get a Ford Fusion 2.3 for a replacement.

[@chuckfarmerie3029]

what kind of issue were you have prior to discovering the timing was at fault?

[@baxrok2.]

Made a video on it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJ25m4tnd6qEo7s

[@Godfather44055]

My brother made one engine out of the 2.0 and 2.3 mazda engine, the car wont start, do you think the timing can be the issue?

[@baxrok2.]

Well, its definitely possible! Fortunately, it's easy to check and verify. I'd consider at least checking it to rule it out.

[@robperss8237]

BAXROK2 HOW CAN YOU TELL THE DIFERENCE IN BETWEEN 2.0 AND 2.3 ENGINE ON A MAZDA 3? THANKS

[@baxrok2.]

Rob Perss There is a sticker under the hood and it tells you which engine you have. Sometimes there is a sticker on the valve cover too. Finally, it should be cast into the back of the engine block itself.

[@Henry_992.]

Great video. U should make a video on how to install aftermarket cams

[@dkis8730]

I was used to my k series engine with a keyed crank. Didn't even know keyless setups existed. After taking the harmonic balancer and timing cover off, I simply figured I'd stick the crank bolt back in to rotate the engine to tdc. bad idea, I immediately knew something was off when the crank rotated but not the cams, so fortunately I stopped before I bent any valves, but I'm confused as shit trying to figure out how to get the engine back in time. I bought a timing kit for this engine, and unfortunately none of the crank lock bolts are the right thread, thanks to Amazon's never-ending supply of Chinese bullshit. How does the crank lock bolt work? I have the oil pan off so I can see the crank, is the pin on the crank lock screw supposed to slide under the counter balance to prevent it from turning one direction? My only problem is that when the pin fits under the counter balance, the crank definitely does not look like it is at tdc. Pistons 1 and 4 should be at TDC when the cams are locked together with the timing tool, right? Or do I have it backwards.

[@FTOStorm]

Can I just say this series of videos saved me a lot of panic, first time working with a keyless crank, or even knowing they existed! Slightly off topic but I am just at the building up stage but can't find a torque sequence for the main bearing end caps? Can you help me with this please? Thanks and keep up the great work.

[@baxrok2.]

Unfortunately, as the car was totaled a few months ago, I don't have my service manuals anymore. Go to Mazda3forums.com, you'll be able to find the info there.

[@FTOStorm]

Baxrok2 thanks for the quick reply. Managed to track down an engine overhaul manual but your videos really brought it all to life much more than the manual did 😎

[@afterthebreaking001]

Thanks so much for the info!!!!

[@MrRajaBaja]

Thank you very much for a great video, this will help me a lot to time my engine. BTW it's a 1.8L 81 kW Duratec HE from a Ford Mondeo MK3 and looking at the video I'm preaty sure the procedure is the same.

[@baxrok2.]

Thanks! Good luck!

[@MrRajaBaja]

@@baxrok2. Hey thanks for the reply, I have a question to ask you if you wouldn't mind. Could you tell me what is the lenght of the timing peg, I'm too cheap to go and buy the timing kit (because I'm probably going to use it only once) so I'm going to make my own, so if you could tell me that I would greatly apreciate it.

[@baxrok2.]

@@MrRajaBaja The entire portion that screws into the engine is ~38.5mm. I think that this number is also available via a Google search in case you want further verification. Thanks and good luck!

[@MrRajaBaja]

@@baxrok2. Yes that is the number I found, but honestly I knew that what you have definitively is the tool I need so now I know for sure, again thank you so much you have helped me a ton :D

[@suzettegilbert770]

under neith the oil pan theres two holes tdc is rite there underneth if u watch piston stroke

[@snowblind5151]

Before I finish watching your video ,my 2007 ford 2.3 had the harmonic balancer nut bust loose while driving. I have a free spinning camshaft ,not good. No key to the harmonic balancer, God help me.

[@baxrok2.]

snowblind5151 Yeah, that might be a problem or might not. My timing was waaay off and in fact my crank pulley bolt was loose too. I drove the car, revved it to 4 or 5k rpms, and amazingly, no damage. So, there's hope!

[@wyattoneable]

You've become the master at this job. Your sharing of the information is sure to help people. Did I send you a sticker?

[@baxrok2.]

Thank you sir. Hardly the master though. When you see me fumbling through the procedure in parts 2, 3, and 4 you'll probably have a good laugh!

[@robertjahrling1877]

Are you going to talk Or are you going to do Bouncing

[@jth1987leb]

So timing doesn’t seem to bad. It’s finding the parts. Mainly the friction washers. The dealers are saying my cars doesn’t have friction washer which is not possible

[@baxrok2.]

Yeah, they told me the same thing. I bought and used them anyway.

[@jth1987leb]

Baxrok2 thanks. When I look on the ford parts website for a 2006 fusion with a 2.3l I can find all the friction washers. I have a 2005 Mazda6 with the 2.3l. The Mazda parts website doesn’t show any friction washers. When I disassembled the engine I only found one and I know that is not correct. Thanks for your videos. I’ve been watching them over and over as I get closer to rebuilding the engine

[@baxrok2.]

Same here, the Fusion had them. You're welcome and good luck on the rebuild!

[@jesseaguirre2961]

AWESOME ,THANKS FOR THE TIME INVESTMENT AND SHARING

[@milojones7053]

Besides, being able to ruin the entire engine by loosening one bolt, why did they build it like this?

[@baxrok2.]

Sure, I think that you can turbo charge any engine. For details, search the forums at Mazda3Forums.com. If it can be done, somebody on there has done it. On the other hand, I think that most will say, just buy a MazdaSpeed!!

[@TECPROAutoCareAlbuquerque]

Your whole 4 video problem is solved by using the right indexing bolt on the crank and tightening it to lock the crankshaft in place.

[@baxrok2.]

Well, yeah. However, I made this video series in response to the fact that a series like it didn't exist and, while easy for some, for the DIYer's who might be doing engine swaps they sure seem to appreciate the info. Also, I had a pro set my timing. He fucked it up and caused me three weeks of wasted time chasing other things since I figured the timing was good! After I figured out just how easy it was to do myself, I wanted to share what I learned to help others. I made four parts since I wanted to give people the option of watching whatever they found most helpful. Thanks!

[@787brx8]

This engine was designed by A guy with A sense of humor. The guy also designed the Excalibur puzzle and many others. So making things over complicated is his way of having fun. He was also into writing screenplays and something about breeding pine trees?

[@baxrok2.]

Yeah, he was a real funny guy! lol

[@787brx8]

@@baxrok2. I have an ignition timing video that is fairly short, if you feel like it watching? It's not that good, so feel free to add to the dislikes.

[@baxrok2.]

@@787brx8 Yeah, I'll check it out for sure first chance I get. I'm sure it's great. As long as it helps people that's all that matters.

[@nathanielhughes8819]

Hi

[@chrishapp4742]

4 each 30 minute videos to explain the timing. I think you answered your own question. No key in the crankshaft- stupid engineering nightmare. Thank you Ford. What a POS.

[@baxrok2.]

Chris Happ Yeah, I totally overdid it. But people had so many questions about it I wanted to be clear and put an end to the matter for good! You having problems?

[@chrishapp4742]

More than I can explain here. First engine I've seen with no key. Bad idea. The 2003 engine is a nightmare of 'specialty tools' requirement. The risk of knocking something out is too great. We have the situation under control, but this engine is one to stay away from. Thanks for the reply and the video, though!

[@carlhoneck3589]

I feel like these engines were wayyy over engineered. 🙄

[@robertjahrling1877]

I wanted to see how the timing was set not hear a bunch of blah blah blah

[@baxrok2.]

Well then, go watch the four in depth fucking videos I made on every god damn aspect of timing the 2.3 engines. Your welcome.

[@AaBb-zj2ld]

im going to say its not very good.

[@geoffgoodall272]

Useless wasted 7 minutes of my life listen you blabber on talking talking talking , u should be a Aussie they talk to much also , less talk more work

[@baxrok2.]

Haha, I agree with you! I shouldn't even have made this video. However, it was a response to a very difficult experience that I had with my engine swap as well as the experiences of others. I was just trying to help. Oh, and by the way, in the video description I clearly state that it's ONLY TALKING!!

[@samvish6363]

Talk too much get to the point

[@baxrok2.]

Okay. The point is - it's not that hard. Is that easy enough for you to understand or did it take to long to read those 4 words? If so I can do it in just 2.