2011-2016 Ford F-150 3.5L Ecoboost Timing Set Replacement Part 1: Getting Inside the Engine

[@FordTechMakuloco]

These are the Tools and Parts I Recommend: ****LATEST PARTS**** Fuel Pump Mounting Bolts (one bag of two bolts)- W503297S900 Intake Phaser (2 Required)- amzn.to/2IBfdDc Exhaust Phaser (2 Required)- amzn.to/2u55yS7 Intake Phaser Bolt (2 Required)- amzn.to/2u3Nech Exhaust Phaser Bolt (2 Required)- amzn.to/2FV0xx6 Primary Timing Chain- amzn.to/2IGlKwy Secondary Timing Chain (2 Required)- amzn.to/4fzSuWv Timing Chain Tensioner- amzn.to/2GpN14E Intake gaskets- amzn.to/2FYsBPW Valve Cover Gasket Drivers Side (All Years)- amzn.to/2FROlBe Valve Cover Gasket Passenger Side (2011-2012)- amzn.to/2pr2dXY Valve Cover Gasket Passenger Side (2013-2015)-)- DL3Z-6584-C High Pressure Fuel Pump O-Ring- amzn.to/2FW19Cs High Pressure Fuel Pump Mounting Gasket- amzn.to/2pxj6QP Water Pump Gasket- amzn.to/2pvVWum Pump O-Ring- amzn.to/2psqCfX Coolant Inlet Seal- amzn.to/2prwJSw Front Crankshaft Seal- amzn.to/2prBfjZ Front Cover Radial Seal- amzn.to/2u59yC7 Crankshaft Pulley Bolt- amzn.to/2u7P2kt Motorcraft Front Cover Sealant (MUST USE)- amzn.to/2psPqo2 Motorcraft NEW Yellow P-OAT Coolant (2 Bottles of Concentrate Required)- amzn.to/3Pc66wi Engine Oil 5w-30 (6qts Required)- amzn.to/2GLtahd ***Recommended Tools*** Crankshaft Pulley Remover- amzn.to/2G0lS8s Camshaft Holding Tools- amzn.to/2FXx7yd Cat Claw- amzn.to/2IBBJM6 Scotch Brite Cleaning Pads- amzn.to/2Ga6GbV Air Wand- amzn.to/2DIe74L Vacuum Bleeder- amzn.to/2FWdWol Oil Catch Can Kit- amzn.to/2pnZvn1 ****OPTIONAL PARTS YOU MAY WANT TO REPLACE**** Engine Valley Coolant Pipe O-Rings (2 Required)- amzn.to/2HPpYAC Degas Bottle Heater Hose (Common to Leak)- amzn.to/2HRq3Up TORQUE SEQUENCE AND SPECS: Front Cover- drive.google.com/file/d/1vvzqqEtyVb-ncDzoaGumVRJ8ZsoMr3xR/view?usp=sharing LH Valve Cover- drive.google.com/file/d/1_N1FFgp0ApZTaHuCum4muzBNVfigww_G/view?usp=sharing 2011-2012 RH Valve Cover- drive.google.com/file/d/1O-QxJdoZ2r1wIKJErGMkkRhMRkuu2pX4/view?usp=sharing 2013 and Newer RH Valve Cover- drive.google.com/file/d/1IL0rZz7uJLkS61bhPm24raulzfJoFBAb/view?usp=sharing Intake Manifold- drive.google.com/file/d/1W3s3GzR7T69OzV35Ehrm8-kf86eCZNFG/view?usp=sharing Water Pump- drive.google.com/file/d/1WdDoFxPYrGkam6PjeJr8B3RH0lhhm76T/view?usp=sharing Thermostat Crossover- drive.google.com/file/d/1f6_ZJOi2He-iLdAvcOO3fEmc1hh5yrIZ/view?usp=sharing As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

[@dustinmcintire3254]

FordTechMakuloco my dealer will not cover this under the emissions warranty and I am outside the powertrain waranty. They are coding it as 6C525 (cam). Do you have any advice on dealing with them? Thanks Dustin

[@Squat5000]

They pulled that exact same shit with me. It is a hopeless fight. Escalated it to ford corporate and you know the reponse was basically go to hell, we know its an issue but screw you.

[@jasonplank8803]

Intake Gaskets: 6 required

[@dylanvela9927]

FordTechMakuloco.... how much would this cost if I took it to your shop? BSG Auto is about 5hrs away from me and I'd like a mechanic who knows what they're doing

[@Squat5000]

Dylan Vela it really depends on the area, availably of non Ford dealership, and how you negotiate. I have had a quote for as low as $2750, while the nearby dealerships wanted well over $4000. My home dealership was willing to work with me somewhat because they knew the situation and actually cared about me, but even then they were pushing $3250 if I recall correctly. They did however agree with my offer to buy parts and pay half labor rate since this would Mark the 3 time the repair was done. Mind you, I didn't make the judgement call that led to the work being done before, it was the dealer that deemed necessary. No idea why it didn't work the first time unless they messed something up. I just wish I had a Craftsman like FTM here. I'd be a lot more confident

[@yandia8336]

This is the most comprehensive series of videos I've seen to complete this job. These videos were absolutely crucial in helping me get this job done correctly so THANK YOU FordTechMakuloco ! Note for anyone attempting this: I knew this would be a big job for me, but it took even longer than I expected for "little" things which I thought would be easier. For example, taking off the valve covers seemed simple enough, but I struggled with getting the clips off of the wiring harness and that step alone ended up taking several hours. Yes, I bought the claw recommended which was very useful. Also getting the AC belt off took longer than expected. I almost just cut the thing and bought a new belt, but I eventually was able to walk the belt off. My engine had 186,000 miles on it, so I went ahead and replaced the brake vacuum pump as well (which is a known leak/failure item). Glad I did because it was leaking all over the place AND it's MUCH easier to remove once you have the valve covers off! Do yourself a favor and have a helper and a plan when the front cover goes back on. Getting all the bolts on and torqued properly in 15 minutes is stressful! I used a paint pen to mark the holes for stage 1 to also make it easier. I ended up buying all the parts from a local Ford Dealer just to ensure I had all genuine parts (except the vacuum pump which I purchased OEM fordmoco from rockauto). They don't advertise this, but they have a "tensioner kit" which includes most of the parts needed to do this job at a fraction of the price to buy all the individual parts. The kit is listed on the TSP from Ford and the kit is part number BL3Z-6D256-C. That kit includes the phasers, bolts, timing chain, and most of the gaskets needed. Funny enough, it doesn't include the actual tensioner, lol. I was also able to get free loaner tools from Advanced Auto parts, Oreilly's, and Autozone (cam locks, pulley remover, pulley installer). In all, I spent $1025 for all the parts including fluids and sealant. It was a monster of a project, but sure is satisfying once it's all back together knowing you saved several grand in labor costs. Another note: I have had timing chain "rattle" for quite a while (several years). I started also getting codes P0299 and P0016 recently. The engine would actually lose power and throw a check engine light. I could reset things by turning off the engine and restarting it. It was WAY overdue to replace the phasers and timing chain. All the codes are now gone and it runs smooth. I just got back from a 1300 mile trip with no issues.

[@coreygendron3755]

Hopefully this reaches you. What parts did you need to buy outside of that kit exactly?

[@yandia8336]

@@coreygendron3755 In addition to the kit, I purchased and installed the following: Part # 7T4Z8527A Coolant Pipe Seals (2 in package) Part #W503297 S900 High Pressure Fuel Pump Bolts (can't be reused), ‎Part # CG812 High Pressure Fuel Pump Mounting Gasket, Part #‎ BL3Z-6L266-A Timing Chain Tensioner, Part # DL3Z6584C Right/Passenger Side Valve Cover Gasket, Part # TA-357 Motorcraft Silicone Engine Sealant, and VC-13DL-G Motorcraft Coolant x2. I also replaced the Brake Vacuum Pump since it had never been done and was leaking very bad. It was much easier to do this with the valve cover off, part # BRPV23. Just a note, I also broke one of the spark plug seals on the valve cover when taking it off. Being 10 years old, I don't think that's something uncommon - part # BR3Z 6C535 B.

[@yandia8336]

@@coreygendron3755 It might be helpful to just list the parts which ARE included in the kit (DL3Z-6584-C): AA5Z 9439 A GSKT-INTK MANF TO CYL HD AT4Z 6256 B CAM TM ASY ENG VAR(INT) AT4Z 6C525 D CAM TM ASY-ENG VAR LH(EXH) AT4Z 6268 C CHN TM AT4Z 6279 BLT C/SHT SPRKT(INTAKE) AT4Z 6279 E BLT C/SHT SPRKT(EXHAUST) BL3Z 6584 A GSKT C/SHT CVR(LH) BL3Z 9E583 B SE-FU/INJ PMP BR3Z 6020 A GSKT CYL FRT CVR PLT BR3Z 8507 C GSKT-WTR PMP BR3Z 8527 A SE WTR BYP TUB F1AZ 6A340 A BOLT - M12-1.5 X 48 HEX FLG HD XW4E 6700 AA SEAL - CRANKSHAFT FRONT OIL 7T4Z 8590 A SE-WTR THERMO For reference, I paid $466.20 at my local dealer for this kit on 9/24/24.

[@elrobo3568]

As an old, retired master mechanic I am very glad I renewed my Ford extended warranty on my 2014 F150 eco boost, It is now warrantied to for 60,000 more miles and to 2028. I love to watch your videos as it reminds me how different the "modern" cars from what I worked on. I now work mostly on classic cars, points, plugs and condensers. Oh yeah, carburetors. No computers. You are among the best mechanics / teachers I have had the pleasure to watch. Thank you!

[@fallguy4664]

Growing up, my Dad was a mechanic. There is a reason I am not. I watched this video because I was considering replacing my own timing chain on my F150. With this video, I feel like i could do it, but it would take me 40+ hours. There's no way any of that would go that smoothly for me. Plus, putting it all back! I'd forgot all kinds of stuff, I'm sure of it. I'll gladly pay someone else to do the labor! Very very informative 👏 👍

[@nymincho]

Working on mine right now and yeah my dad was a mechanic as well, I will be here for 3 days.

[@Michael-yi4mc]

I paint the tip with a different color on each part. And lots of pictures with the phone. Amazon sells a set of paint pens.

[@ricardodominguez1463]

@@nymincho Mechanic here I will also spend 3 days on it and the shop would charge around $1800 in labor only. Customer is paying for a job well done regardless of the time it takes especially when it gets this detailed. This is a $4000 bill roughly.

[@hectorguillen4520]

😂😂😂😂

[@imHim0420]

Don't wanna be a mechanic ey☠️☠️☠️

[@rwilson1905]

Thank you for the F150 3.5L Ecoboost timing set replacement videos, I would not have been able to do this job without them! My 2013 F150 with 167K is running great and is super quiet at startup now!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Wow thanks! Glad I could help!

[@prizzlethadon]

dude you are a lifesaver. me and my father in law did the timing chain job ourselves with no problem thanks to your detailed videos. you sir have saved me $4000 and I am thankful as hell

[@reggiecrowe9504]

Any issues since ? What all did you replace ?

[@wyomingcowboy501]

Original owner 2013 F150, 3.5 Eco, 210,000 miles June 2020. Changed engine oil at 500 miles, and continued to use blended oil until about 1500 miles for a soft break-in. Then ran Synthetic Mobile 1 oil since and no issues...not even timing chain! There are 2 ideologies to maintaining vehicles; run-until-fail (RTF) or preventive maintenance (PM). If you own an Ecoboost engine, a person really needs to have a P.M. mindset and not a RTF one. Fords computer for "oil reset" is way too long between intervals if you set it to 100%. If you set it at 50% you will be alerted around 5,000 miles that it is time to change the oil. Fortunately, I caught this fairly early on and it has saved my engine. Samething with the Transmission flush!!!! I have Wynns flushed my trainy 5 times thus far and no issues. But tell them to also clean out the metal/serviceable transmission filter... they may tell it isn't needed. Don't be fooled by a 25 yr old service writter. Mike

[@billyknippers6983]

YOU know since FORD wont back up their products , its SUPER nice of you to do this for US brave souls that attempt this ... BROTHER you are a awesome instructor .

[@dynagaming2693]

I love how detailed you are and how you go through the process as it's done in the manual. I don't even own an F-150 (nor 90% of the vehicles that you work on), but I just find them interesting to watch. Thanks for your in-depth work!

[@Don150T]

Thank you for making these videos!! I would NEVER have attempted this without these videos. I’ve only ever done basic repairs on vehicles most of my life. The closest I’ve ever come to getting inside an engine was a flywheel change on a 1972 V6 mustang when I was 17. MY local dealership wanted $5,000 to do this timing chain. I haven’t driven this truck in almost a year because of this. I ordered all of the parts last winter and just now finally got around to changing it. It took me exactly two weeks, just working on it a few hours at a time. I’m sure this could have been done in a weekend If I stuck to it. Thanks again

[@jonathanchristiansen7593]

how much does it cost to do yourself?

[@Don150T]

I think I spent around $2,500. But I bought several tools like a Dewalt 1/2” impact and Milwaukee cordless ratchet out of that money

[@chrisl1398]

After watching all 4 parts...to be honest I need to recognize when something is out of my skill set. This is outside. I appreciate you showing us how to do it. I appreciate more the work that goes into it.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

These are much more complex than the 5.4l 3v engines I am used to.

[@Pofdmanaxe]

Haha, I thought the same thing time to bring it to the shop 😂

[@briankillya]

100% right about that. My cover is weeping all over.

[@benfranklinskite5975]

Very intelligent reply Chris. Humility is hard to find these days. I certainly have learned an expensive lesson- that I'm not as good a mechanic I once thought I was. Watching this video makes me realize the $100 reservation I put down on a Cybertruck just might turn out to be a good investment.

[@billfarmer8366]

I've watched another vid performed with the cab off. Your efforts to detail & explain every minute process pertaining to this repair is nothing short of phenomenal and extremely considerate from this viewers perspective. I have the 2011 F150 EB and unfortunately i didn't make the warranty cut. I do experience the chain rattle only when the vehicle sets up for 2-3 days w/o running the engine. The rattle is brief but startling if you haven't heard it before. I have yet to get comfortable with that sound, seems I have this vision in my head of the that monster chain flying off, pistons crashing etc. Nasty stuff in my mind but I do drive on. I love the motor and the truck, it's never seen the shop for anything other than one recall regarding the transmission "could" potentially slam into 1st gear at highway speeds, I couldn't get that vision out of my head either so off the the dealer I went. Seriously man, I support you in any way I can, I purchase the products, tools, parts etc. you reference in your descriptions hoping you receive some financial gain from same. Congrats on your success and thank you for your vision, dedication & kindness in sharing & building such an extensive, detailed database of repair vids for all of us to view and succeed in making our our repairs plus allowing us to save a few bucks along the way. I'm 63 y/o and, IMO. professionals (in all businesses) such as yourself are very, very rare and truly appreciated. Wish you and yours good health, happiness and endless wealth.

[@ryand5041]

Well said

[@DMP77]

One of the best videos I have seen to complete this project. Very patience and easy to understand.

[@danewarholic]

Used this 4 part video to replace the timing chain and phasers on my 2014 f150 ecoboost. It was a huge help! 142k miles, looking to add 142k more!

[@robertviscardi1483]

Thank you soo much for your instructional videos. I just did a complete timing job on a 3.7l police explorer with 100k miles. I replaced everything plus new melling hi volume oil pump, water pump, new phasers, which had the death rattle. Now, the engine is absolutely quiet. Took 2 days. But, like you I took my time cleaning everything which adds time. Thank you again, it made this big job much easier!!!!

[@robertlang9425]

I don't do Facebook, twit, snap whatever, and don't blog; I never post anything online. But had to comment on how much I've learned from you in working on my 2011 F-150 Ecoboost. I'm no mechanic, and you've helped me learn to work on my truck and Expo. Great camera angles, lighting, not profane, and explanation. She's paid off now, and the great videos you have posted have allowed me to save tons of money and help maintain my truck. Has also enriched my relationship with truck (tear...) Thanks a lot. Hope all is well and you've got more business than you can handle. Also enjoy the Airplane reference...

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Thanks! I am glad I could help, I think you are the first one to comment on the Airplane line lol.

[@michaelturner1565]

I own an automotive shop. I thought I'd take a second and watch a video before opening Alldata. Well, not for nothing, but clicking on your video is the best decision I have made in a while. Everything was so clear and concise. Great camera angles and spot on. The only differences I experienced were due to truck I'm working on being a bit newer so the vacuum set up was slightly different. And my valve covers didn't exactly slide right off. Those were a pure bi...., umm, pain in the arse to get off. It took a fair amount of patient prying. On another note, I'm also working on a 2008 f250 V10 with an engine miss and I'd love to ask you a couple of questions. Either way, spectacular job and you may my job so much easier. Thanks tons

[@TheAndy331]

I don't know how anybody could thumbs down this super detailed amazing video !! Pure hate ? Competition ?? Fat thumbs ...

[@pvtjokergaming8892]

So i just discovered your videos a few days ago with this step by step process and i have to say it is kinda of a breath of fresh air to see someone willing to provide another option to people. This guide is gonna save me money. Maybe not time, but saving money is more relative than the time its gonna take me. Thank you for putting this out there...

[@joeskoien]

TOP NOTCH !!! I don't like working on newer vehicles, but when my son in-law got the chain rattle I had to give it a try. Your tutorial is very detailed. His 2011 F150 is up and running like a champ. I did spend the extra money on original Ford parts and a Melling High Volume Oil Pump. Couldn't have done it without you. Thank you.

[@bigpicturethinking5620]

Did you replace the pump without removing the oil pan?

[@ManicMechanic007]

I don't even own an Ecoboost but I watch for all the great tips and tricks that apply to so many other applications. Thanks.

[@29auto30]

Same here,but remember back in the day when we could reuse the bolts.........33:45....SMH!

[@JW-wl7jl]

Just finished this process, and I couldn't have done it without this video series! I'm so grateful for this series. Thank you so much.

[@sstimwillisss]

Thank you so much for creating these videos. Following them allowed me to save thousands! Very detailed and every step explained to the T. I have just completed the timing rebuild on my 2011 f150 3.5 ecoboost. I wasn’t as graceful as you were. But she is up and running normal again. It took me two weekends and a lot of cursing to complete the whole process. But I owe you a lot. Can’t thank you enough!!

[@bigpicturethinking5620]

What was the most difficult part for you?

[@tomh6779]

Thank you for your prompt response. Again I really appreciate your great video work and attention to detail. It’s hard to find people who care about the work they do for the customer. I live about 4 hours away from you in Michigan. I can see myself bringing my vehicles to you when they are out of warranty. Thanks again for caring. Tom

[@3825thempigs]

I can't thank you enough for taking the time to produce these videos. I used your videos to perform a full timing rebuild on my 201 F150 3.5l Ecoboost. I was kind of nervous because I only have experience with 350 short block and that was about 30 years ago. YOU ARE AWESOME!

[@fccoz8348]

On a 2021??????? Jesus Christ

[@3825thempigs]

@@fccoz8348 2012

[@mccluremetalworks4214]

My 2013 3.5 started the tapping on startup,dealership wants $4-$5000 for this,after watching your videos,i dont see any issues doing this myself, thanks alot!

[@nicksvaik]

I followed this tutorial successfully to replace the chains, phasers, guides, tensioners and oil/water pump on my 2012. The chain stretched and jumped time due to a failed tensioner. Unfortunately the valves were bent as soon as this happened so now i have to take it down to the cylinder heads and get them re-worked! Thanks for the videos they really helped

[@rhouser1280]

I just bought a 2011 ecoboost, other than the plugs, coils, misfire at higher rpm’s when I really need the power, charge air cooler moisture/oil, 4x4 not disengaging, timing chain that could double as a jump rope from being stretched, radio died, it’s been a great truck! I watched the torture test with Mike Rowe & I was sold on the ecoboost, worst truck I’ve ever owned & I completely understand, 2011 was the first year for the ecoboost & there was bound to be a few problems but Ford really dropped the ball on standing behind their customers. Yea I know there’s a joke in there about what they’re really doing when they stand behind you. All I can say is that if it wasn’t for this channel, I would really be screwed. Thank you for all of your videos!

[@MrYAMAHA32177]

Great video and outstanding parts documentation. I have a 1 owner (me) 1995 F-150 Lariat, 77k with the 5.0L and would never dream of owning one of these newer Ford overhead cam engines, yikes. A friend mentioned his 3.5 making what he thought was timing chain noise and he will flip out after watching this. Thanks again.

[@nathansargent263]

Thanks for this series!! Make sure you have the right tools, parts, and a good place to work. This is not a trivial or beginner project. I did a 2014 Explorer Sport after watching this series. 82K miles and the engine light came on: P0016. Also had cold-start slap. There are some differences from the F-150 shown here, but this series gave me enough information to go on. On the Explorer (at least) Ford recommends you replace the high pressure fuel line after it's been taken off. $150 part, but at 2200psi, I'd rather be safe than sorry. Getting the motor side cover back on was nuts - had to put the RTV on the motor side. Pretty tricky to even get the side cover in place without gouging the soft aluminum as you rotate it and slide it past the end of the cams. I did not evacuate the AC system as the Haynes manual says but I can see where it would be more convenient, in general. While I was in there, I replaced the primary guides, secondary chains, phaser/sprockets, tensioner, water pump, plugs, cracked boost tube, drive belt tensioner, and cam sensors. Getting the phasers and sprockets off, and torqued back - is NO joke. Be prepared to stand on the motor to keep the cam-tool in place while you use a pipe on your breaker bar. Now it purrs, with no start-up slap, and the engine light went out on the second start. Much more responsive. Certainly not a job I want to do again for a long while. The dealer wanted $4-5K and I spent about $1500 in parts. Dealer wanted $250 to replace $65 waterpump (internal, and exposed after the chain comes off) - that was the straw that broke this camel's back to do it myself. Saw another video that suggested 5K oil changes would keep this from happening. I didn't, but I should have compared the new and old chains for length. This other video showed that due to wear, the worn chain is longer and the tensioner can no longer keep the chain tight. Next, to add a catch can because the intakes were dirty (not too bad, but won't get any better) and service the PTU. Thanks FordTechMakuloco!!

[@brv002]

You're a legend for taking this on yourself and providing feedback! How's your vehicle holding up? I have a 15' expedition EL with 90k. Even though she's still running like a champ (cuz I do all the maintenance) I get the feeling I might have to perform heart surgery on her like this someday.

[@nathansargent263]

@@brv002 Thanks - it's purring along at about 110K now. I did have to replace the PTU. It was just plain cooked. I don't have a lift so I had the dealer do it. Actually, not bad at about $2500 - parts alone are $1500 and it's wedged in nicely. I've been very religious about 5K oil changes with full SYN since the rebuild. No issues.

[@lukestoyz]

Like your videos. I’m not a Ford fan, but enjoy your informative videos. Now I know why your a ford mechanic. Probably not because you like the product but because you see the endless job security with their products

[@TheOzthewiz]

Yeah, Chevrolet doesn't have 1/10 the problems. JD Power awards for every Chevy product. Chevrolet #1!

[@DougMorgensen]

I love your 4 part series on doing the timeing chain and associated parts. I didn't have to do any research other than just watch you video's. I took my time and did everything by the book. I found leaning over my truck the most troublesome as I have a 6" lift on it. Not only did I do the timing, but replace the Oil pump with the Melling Hi volumn pump, vaccum pump and soon I will be upgrading the Exhaust manifolds as I have a broken bolt on each side.. I's also planning on replacing the turbos. My truck has 149K miles. Again thanks. I would be interested in your turbo recommendations.. Just keeping the truck stock. Thanks again. Your one the only youtubers I trust.

[@xtra_9]

Watching this video out of curiosity mostly, never been inside an ecoboost but looking to purchase a 17-20 currently. what a phenomenal video, i would feel 100% confident tackling this project with your guidance. So I say, thanks! for all of those you’ve helped that haven’t said it! I can’t count how many times your level of detail would have helped me find that one plug, or that one hidden bracket to make it 100% correct. again, great job!

[@alpfaff8747]

😮0😊

[@Jon-tj7wo]

Dealer had my truck for a month to do this and put in new turbos. Thank god for the certified preowned warranty had it fixed right at 98k mile 2012 f150 3.5 4x4

[@user-ns3ym1zi3x]

Hi. What were the symptoms you had when you brought your truck in?

[@franksrok5843]

ford junk. you purchased it. winner!

[@damienbull8160]

I just purchased 2013 3.5 ecoboost from a Ford Dealer in Fishers Indiana. Timing chain and Cam Phasers and solenoids had to be replaced because the rattle showed up 6 days after purchasing the truck. Truck had 107k miles when I got it. $2,700 covered by the dealership who sold me the Truck 2 weeks ago! Coils and Plugs replaced as well so the job was $3,500 total after that. Luckily no out of pocket for me. This is definitely a well-known issue usually starting around 60,000 miles on most of the 3.5 EcoBoost previous generations.

[@greg_smola]

How can anyone possibly give this guy a negative thumbs down?!?! You are a godsend brotha!!!

[@stephenrobinson5949]

This is a very good video. I have been a mechanic for 35 years and just bought one of these because it needed a chain. I was a little worried about doing it but this was very helpful. Great Job!!

[@tonyspohn]

Taking the plunge. Ill be doing this in a couple weeks so Im ordering parts. These videos will be a huge help. Ive run though them once, will absolutely have them queued up when I start.

[@bigpicturethinking5620]

Did you get it done?

[@arthurfricchione8119]

Major teardown just getting access. Nice clear and precise video. Thank you👍

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Big time!

[@bradnimbus4836]

Thank you! The knowledge you share is almost priceless homie!

[@libram11]

paid the dealership to cab off correct the timing problems at 165k miles at 264k and now they want 4200 to replace tensioners and phasers, they were not done or even offered at 165k. Thanks to you now I'm in the middle of a FULL timing job, all components, new HV oil pump and turbo screen replacement and Mitsu catch can. Dealership would have wanted 10+ I'm 2 grand in parts and my own labor. Thank you for all of the info. A turbo oil screen replacement vid would be welcome though.

[@libram11]

ok fun added note, turns out one of the chain guides broke off and has been floating around the timing chain area and getting eaten up slowly. The phaser screens are all plugged up with tiny bits of plastic, so pulling the oil pan, replacing the screen and pickups and filter and phasers and well everything in the timing case, cleaning everything i can see and can get to, replacing turbo oil screens, but is there anything else i can do? Engine is basically totally open at this point with only the pathways inaccessible. Pour copius amounts of oil from the top and just let it flow out the bottom to the catch pan? I cant seem to find any refrence to how to deal with this.

[@michaelrobinson3127]

I don't even own a Ford and I watched this video cause there just that good and informative. Not sure I'd have the balls to tackle this job. I thought the water pump in my 2.7 dodge was intimidating..wow.

[@freddygill3425]

You make the world a better place! What a skilled teacher you are! God bless you bro! Thank you for introducing me to my new truck. Just bought a 2020 F-150 with this engine. I love working on my own stuff. The understanding you so generously give brings peace of mind that I will be able to take care of this precious truck. I can tell it's not easy, but you have encouraged me. Thank you so much. I love the detail and clarity of your video. Very professional!!!

[@ericsolberg8812]

Absolutely awesome video. My family is doing a long distance move and money is tight. My truck started acting up and I was so frustrated. This video inspired me to do this job myself. Today I focused on tear down. So far so good. For that stretchy belt I could not seem to get it off with a strap so I tried a small cat claw and it worked great. Just stick it in just past the belt. Once the pulley takes it tork the handle so it walks off. Easy peezy Again thank you for these videos!

[@Bruhstorfer]

I came here just to replace the RH head and gasket...now I want to rebuild as well just for the hell of it!!! Thanks for the detailed breakdown.

[@gregoryrohde]

Yep selling mine. Thanks to folks that can do this. I hope something can simplify our vehicles someday.

[@Atacama777]

Excellent tutorial, when it comes to Ford, you are the number one professional source of information, thank you for taking the time to explain what to do, the precautions to do it properly, and the specs (torque, pressure, sensor values, etc.), some of which you can’t find anywhere, and like the procedures are highly appreciated.

[@JaceJackson]

Wow these 3.5 EcoBoost look way more difficult to work on than the 2.7 EcoBoost. Another nice thing about the 2.7 is when you pull the intake manifold off ford used catch style bolts that don't allow them to be removed from the manifold which is nice, you'll never lose them or risk them getting inside the intake ports. Great video btw!

[@sk8ter202]

Want to say thanks again for these videos. About to do this repair on a 3rd vehicle.

[@englishlad8085]

Just about to jump in to mine and do this full job on my 2014 , all 4 parts of these vids are fantastic, thank you so much for doing such great work on explaining these projects in layman’s terms to people like me 😂🤙

[@sgsdfgsdfgsdfg2305]

Thank you very much for this tutorial! I could not have done the job without these videos. I do have some feedback for you though. You cannot rotate the phasers with the chain after you match up the links on the bench to make them go on the phasers. They have to fit on the cams without rotating the chain(I figured this out prior to moving on, thank goodness) I figured that out on my own, and the other thing is the coolant pipe below the intake. One gasket is easy to replace(far side) but the side with the thermostat I could not figure out how to get the pipe out of that assembly to change the gasket. It was stuck and I didn't want to force it. Some explanation there would be great. THANK YOU SO MUCH! You helped me save $3100 for shop labor here.

[@rodneyswailes3161]

well thank you. saved me alot of time with all the wrench sizes and order of assy. the plug boot seals were not releasing came off in two pieces. once again thanks

[@Gannjo93]

Thank you so much. I replaced mine and put in the melling hv pump. No codes. All is well and exciting. Pep in the step. Only thing I'd say is to pull all the tension in the chain to the passenger side. 10000000 percent amazing videos series.

[@anthonykberry]

Thanks for this series, it's a lot of work compared to doing timing belts on small 4 cylinder motors like I've normally done. Also the valve covers and harnass are a pain to get loose for me. After that everything flowed well though. Just letting everyone know that they donation link is on his about section, send this man some beer money!

[@RenaissanceDisciple]

Did you have to remove the star bolt on the right valve where the fuel part has been?

[@yandia8336]

I know you made this comment two years ago, but I just finished this project on my 2013 Ford F150. I found the same issue with the valve cover/harness - it took me forever to get the valve covers off which I didn't expect.

[@jonlucas5521]

To think I was proud when I successfully replaced the magneto on my 10 HP limb chipper. It did start up on the first pull in 10 years, though.

[@chevtruck1000]

Nice disclaimer. Pity you have to put it on there to CYOA against people who aren't happy unless they're messing someones life up. You do an excellent job with your videos. Thank you.

[@TheRnwood]

Love watching your videos!!! I've owned the 5.4, 5.0 and now the 3.5 ecoboost. Never a problem with any of them but having this knowledge is great to have just in case. Thank you!

[@dperr338]

Curious, oil change intervals/routine maintenance?

[@travisty357]

Glad you put this video out. So ironic that I have the parts on order right now to do the job. Thank you.

[@RockfordF150Bass]

Jimminy crickets this 3.6 make's the 5.4 3 valve look like a walk in the park to take apart!!! Wish we had a very knowledgeable technician in Tucson like you. 👌👍

[@FordTechMakuloco]

The 5.4l 3v is definitely a walk in the park compared to these.

[@schuurshot3776]

You dont always seem the happiest but thanks for doing all these! Uve helped me alot with a lot of jobs man!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

It’s allot of work in a real shop environment, hard on the body. This is reality unlike many fake auto repair KZbin channels.

[@dougcorwin3090]

Way better than all of cheys problems,crank pins, roller lifters ,rocker arm and transmissions

[@mpeugeot]

Thank you for doing this series... I know that this job is going to be an absolute nightmare, so having a great video guide is priceless.

[@shadetreemaker38]

I just finished doing this on my 2013 limited. Thank you for making these awsome videos!!!

[@Guap303]

How was it

[@shadetreemaker38]

@@Guap303 it took me about 12 hours. It was a bit of a pain becuase of the bumper sticking out from the motor and the only thing to kneel on is the intercooler. But I got it done.

[@Guap303]

@@shadetreemaker38 thank you for the reply! This will be my next project. Wish me luck lol

[@shadetreemaker38]

@@Guap303 if you can afford a quality chain and guide set get it. I bought a Chinese set from ebay and it started ratling a few months later. Good luck! I only had one extra bolt left, may all your bolts find there hole.

[@Guap303]

@@shadetreemaker38 I appreciate the tip, thank you!

[@robfaryna8598]

Thank you for your videos! Most recently I did this timing chain replace on my 2013 eco and it went flawlessly thanks to this video! Keep up the good work you do brother in helping others do fairly challenging work on their own trucks🍻

[@reggiecrowe9504]

Have you thrown any codes since ? What is everything you replaced ?

[@robfaryna8598]

@@reggiecrowe9504 nothing as of yet. Replaced tensioner and water pump as well as high pressure fuel pump gasket, apart from obvious cam phasers and chain. I do regret not replacing the water pump but when I inspected it looked in great working order so I decided against it.

[@2001Sunshine]

Hey Rob, how long did it take you to do the job?

[@rickchapman3707]

love that double wrench action near the waterpump wished i had that tool lol one of the best mechanic videos ever !!!! I would love to have a F150

[@BPoweredLove]

1:45 When you removed your slash guard, you discovered a Milwaukee impact wrench in there? Yay! Free tool! You're so lucky. XD

[@graphicsbytmk]

Just finished doing my 3.5 timing set etc today! Your videos were a huge help. Thanks

[@southernfriedhippie]

Can't wait for part 2! Great info to know. Thanks!

[@captianzach88]

Absolutely an amazing job of explaining everything and list of parts and tools needed. I watched all 4 videos and plan to use as reference thank you

[@onpointmachiningllcschmidt5441]

Thank you so much for this Video Series. I can't "like" it enough times. Very helpful. Thank you!!

[@codysmackdown1]

GREAT VIDEO! I love the part "it's just a $55 Hose, no big deal" that's my yearly allowance for all vehicle maintenance 🤣🤣🤣 great video very educational!

[@eugenevdwalt2563]

Can not thank you enough for your vids!! Really appreciate it.

[@rrmech11]

Outstanding job Brian as always

[@brentrollins7974]

Thanks so much for this video! You're the reason I did the job myself!! I had some annoying troubles with the pipe/electrical connections. The part numbers for the high pressure fuel pump weren't listed and they're BL3Z-9350A. Home depot has an excellent 8" strap wrench to torque to yield the crankshaft pulley, definitely purchase that! Not critiquing the videos just trying to help others just like you did me. What was very interesting was I had a lot of trouble getting the holding tools to be floppy in place like your video. Left bank was floppy while right bank was very tight. I removed tension and tried to move cams to match the other side as close as possible. When tensioned with new parts both holding tools immediately were loose in place exactly like your video. Was that due to my timing out of sync with a stretched chain? Runs perfect now and thank you so much again!! I'm definitely subscribing and will be watching your catch can install video.

[@davidreidy6670]

When I decided to complete this job, I had cam correlation codes which were there for a few months prior to deciding to replace the phasers and chains. Well right before I did the job the truck started running terrible, And I failed to double check the codes and just pulled the truck in and tore it apart. Once torn down, I noticed the upper right guide was broken, and when that cams locking plates were in place the crank mark was at 7 o'clock, not 4 like in your video. I talked to a ford tech, and he said to set the chins up as you indicated and just turn the crank back to align with the double timing link, I should be ok. I completed the job and the truck started but ran like crap. Would not go over 3,ooo RPM and threw two exhaust sensor and 1 intake cam sensor codes. I replaced all 4 sensors with Ford parts since they were relatively in expensive and the same codes cam right back, but Correlation codes did not regenerate. I did a compression check and each cylinder was between 183 and 185. I had thought when the timing jumped it may have bent a valve but I am thinking with 185 thats not likely. I am starting to think I may have a processor issue. Any idea which direction I should go with this now?

[@jeffgilbert147]

Very well done. My brother and I will be doing this repair to his 2013 F150 in the near future. Thanks.

[@nicksmith491]

@fordtechmakuloco 40:39 how exactly do you tap the adjustment on the alternator? I cant quite fit any hammer in there to make a meaningful love tap.

[@cd155mx]

Incredible video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.

[@stevensalas4866]

Hi I was getting ready to attempt this on my truck this is the best video that I found are these parts still the best parts to use for my truck 2014 F150 XLT 3.5 eco-boost

[@rdotson159]

Excellent video. I had to do this on my 2004 F150 5.4 triton and it was much harder it appears. My issue just started (1000 miles after warranty runs out) and it's just he beginning of winter, so might try to milk it until spring when it is a little warmer since I don't have a garage to work in.

[@randywheeler3914]

I want to say thank you and you really know your stuff definitely helps me out a lot I definitely appreciate these videos

[@fastfreeks]

Thank you for doing these how to videos I really appreciate it. I'm replacing the timing components on a 2011 f-150 with 120k miles, his is so bad it's undriveable hopefully his engine is still good. I've been wrenching and building engines for 22 years and right now this is #1 on my WTF list, by far the most frustrating engine/vehicle I've ever worked on. Between the carbon buildup and timing component problems I almost consider this engine a throw away. I've been a ford fan for a long time right now I'd rather buy a dodge than this pile.

[@jomo1166]

Quick question. The shop put 5w20 in on my last oil change. 700 miles after that I had cold start rattle. Changed the oil back to 5 w30 rattle went away. Will I be needing a new timing chain ??

[@davidorgan404]

Amazingly informative and easy-to-follow video! Since we are tearing half the engine apart already, would you recommend a fuel induction cleaning while we have it open? My truck has 127k miles and I dont think its ever been done before.

[@dminnick1]

I’m having an issue getting the valve cover to come off. I got about 1/4” to lift up on the front but the back side of the cover won’t budge. I’m afraid to apply too much pressure and crack it. Any advice to get this cover off.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

you must work them off front to back side to side they can stick pretty good.

[@reggiecrowe9504]

I had the valve/cam tools in place to prevent the crankshaft pulley bolt from spinning. I used a breaker bar to try and get that bolt off the crankshaft but I heard a couple pops /clanks coming from the passenger side camshaft . I stopped immediately . Did I screw something up ? 😮 I turned the crankshaft manually without the tools in and everything turned fine and sounded ok . Wondering what the pop was and if I’m ok to continue with the repair

[@BiologistRyan]

Which brand auto ratchet is that... I really need one of those damn things, seems like it saves a ton of time finishing off bolts.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

This the Milwaukee 3/8" Electric Ratchet I use for everything-www.anrdoezrs.net/click-7889909-10368321?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.homedepot.com%2Fp%2FMilwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-3-8-in-Ratchet-Kit-W-1-1-5Ah-Battery-Charger-Tool-Bag-2457-21%2F202957709&cjsku=202957709

[@BiologistRyan]

I... may be in love.... with the ratchet, not you... I kid I kid you are cool too. Wish I had one of these doing my LIM gasket on a buick century.

[@JohnDiMartino]

I have 3 of the Milwaukee ratchets they are the best! Highly recommended! That engine looks pretty clean inside ,I’d say they did there maintenance on time, so why are they having these issues on maintained engines? I have a 2017 ecoboost 3.5 and you have me scared seeing this , I bought it new and use motorcraft filters only mad Castro’s magnatec. 5w30 full synthetic oil, I changed it at 1700 miles,and now at 6600, miles going to go no more than 5000 miles/200 hrs.....I came from GM trucks where the engines while not a powerhouse they are very reliable

[@randr10]

I don't think this is any more common on these than it was on the modular motors, which regularly get over 200k before you start seeing major failures. The problems you'll most likely see when these eco's get up there in mileage are things like the turbos wearing out and carbon buildup on the intake valves due to the direct injection system and high intake temperatures from boost. I have a 2011 Flex Ecoboost and I did have an engine failure at 130k, but it was a stupidly simple issue. PCV valve/oil separator combo failed and the engine was aspirating oil through the intake. Oil got low, oil got too hot, then coked the turbo bearings, debris from that either wiped the main bearings or destroyed the oil pump, then low oil pressure at idle. I caught mine early and it still ran good when I pulled it (save for idle oil pressure issue), but there's major work needing repair on the old motor (found little chunks of metal in the oil inlet screens of the turbos). Long story short, watch your oil levels like a hawk once you get up around 100k and if you see it start to use oil, change out your PCV valve. Better yet, change your PCV valve before it gets to that. They're cheap and easy to replace. I don't think the later models have oil separators, they're integrated into the valve covers IIRC.

[@BiologistRyan]

You sure you meant to reply to me? I was asking about his tools.

[@kansascityshuffle8526]

(2011 f-150) One thing about the driver’s side turbocharger air inlet. It is also secured by a rubber grommet. Kind of near the alternator above and behind it. In fact it’s the same grommet bracket as turbo air outlet pipe. the Mine required a pretty hard pull and I’m not exactly a lightweight. Just putting that out there.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes ever air pipe both inlet and outlet are held by a grommet. You just need to angle it right before pulling it through

[@marc-andredumas6047]

Hi , i just do timing job on my 2013 f150 3.5 Ecoboost and the crank is not at the good place when the cam is in good place with the holding tool , how i adjust my crank to put it at 4-5 oclock ? Thank you for your video

[@scotthartman1010]

I am ecstatic about this video. Ready to give it a try myself, which brings me to a few questions. Some parts are sold at rock auto as a kit, like the primary chain comes with secondary chains, and guides for the chain. I watched part 1 and 2, did I miss something where those are reused. Your parts list seems pretty thorough, but I don’t want to crack it open and have some of the needed parts and have to run and get the rest while it’s open. Maybe I missed something by not watching the rest of the videos, or maybe when the kids were screaming and the dogs were barking I missed hearing it then.. Regardless great videos and thanks for giving me the best tool to get the job done! I have used your videos on other Ford projects, with results I can be proud of!

[@israelmoore495]

Thank you !!! These videos will save me boat load in the future, if my ecoboost happens to get the rattle. Its not as common as one thinks, seems more common in owners that follow that OCI monitor. I hope that my religious maintenance every 5k will prevent it, if not the timing chain is worth it in my opinion.

[@bobrichardson310]

Wondering if you have a recommended parts list for my 2017 2nd Gen 3.5L with 106K that has the chain rattle for 3 seconds on startup. Thanks, Bob.

[@joeybrittbenny398]

Would the same type of parts (even if the specific part number is different) and the torque specs be the same for a 2017, F-150, 3.5L ecoboost?

[@dubTuube]

I need to know the same. I need to replace the phasers on my 17' 3.5l ecoboost... I'd LOVE to see a recommended part list! @FordTechMakuloco

[@jimmyfiggs6293]

Nice step by step wrenchin' video. Informative. Thanks

[@crystalsolis7054]

Awesome very helpful and descriptive. Thank you very much for your amazing videos. Keep up the good work sir. You are obviously talented and patient

[@kwikrench]

Around our neck of the woods people like to put 6 inch lifts with 36 inch tires and it’s easier to take the cab off and leave the intake on, just remove the throttle body. Cab off is about 45 min. Cab back on is a little longer but wow no climbing around under the hood, very straight forward then.

[@TX_AC5G]

First, thank you so much for all your videos. They're all so through and detailed with the added bonus of all the little tips and tricks of a Ford specialist you can only get after having done dozens of the same job. My 2013 has just started doing the startup rattle after 165k. Just wondering if this is still the long-term fix or if any additional procedures or updated parts have been released since the making of this video. Keep up the great work!

[@kalei43]

I fricken love your videos, please keep up the great work!

[@randirose6172]

My husband wants to know if you replace the chain guides when you replace the chains. If so, what are the part numbers ? Since you are that far in the tear down, why would you not replace the water pump ?

[@yilancio]

my 2012 EB has 135k and running darn good w/o most issues that you've documented Brian. I have the RXP catchcan , use synthetic oil every 5k, top tier premium, and the SP534's. What i do have is what sounds like a light rattle mostly on acceleration. I have an extended warranty and my guess is the bearings on one or both of the turbo's are going?? Just sounds like loose metal rattle occasionally. Any guess on what it is? My warranty runs out in 3 months and I'd like to have it fixed before then, obviously. Thanks for awesome videos!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes, check the upper exhaust heat shield under the drivers seat.

[@bradwalther6599]

Thanks for the videos I'm replacing the timing chain for the second time putting in the mellings high pressure pump I was wondering if you have any suggestions on cleaning the pick up tube screen with out removing the oil pan any suggestions on what I could spray down there while the oil pump is off would be appreciated