2011 - 2020 GM Ecotec 1.4L Engine Turbocharger Replacement ~ Exhaust Manifold Leak (Cruze / Sonic)

[@chrisrose1508]

It is great to see someone that knows what they are doing and also follows the service manual and explains any deviations.

[@toysruskiddtheog2219]

This is by far, the best and most comprehensive video I've seen about any car repair. I will be removing my turbo very soon, and I can't thank you enough for putting this all together. I'm thinking I blew the gasket, but I'll be using your tips to inspect the actual unit, and the block surface as well.

[@OcularPerceptions]

Excellent video. I'm getting ready to change out the turbo on my 2017 Encore Essence. It just went over 204,000 miles and has thrown the low boost code 3 times, so I'm doing this a preventive measure before I actually have serious damage. Watched this video twice and had my grandson watch it as well, so we should be good to go. Thank you for your patience and diligence in this presentation.

[@chrisrose1508]

Did you have any warning signs that the turbo was on the way out? My daughters 2017 encore has a burned rubber smell to if after driving a while. There are very light vapor traces coming up from underneath the manual heat shield. It got me wondering if the turbo bearings are going out. I have replace the oil feed line a few months ago before this problem started. The oil line was clear so I dont think the turbo was oil starved.

[@ZalVIIzero]

@chrisrose1508 I just replaced my turbo on my 2013 Encore just days ago. There's was no symptoms besides a code I get whenever I cruze the freeway. I believe it was the underboost code. And another code from last December-March for catalytic o2 sensors reading its running rich. After taking off the original turbo, I saw a huge hairline crack inside of it. Yours sounds like it's time to make the swap.

[@ronaldmoody4766]

Just wanted to post a big thank you for this video. I don’t usually watch videos that are this long, but this video was an exception due to the content. All of the details of disassembly and assembly were extremely helpful. I put this on the garage TV as I was working through the repair. While it didn’t make those bolts much easier to get at, at least I knew that I was doing the right thing.

[@jasonsmith6095]

Best, most detailed and explained mechanic video I’ve ever seen!!! Used it to replace the turbo on my daughter’s car. Bought the OEM GM turbo at Rock Auto and sed your parts list on Amazon to get oil/coolant lines, gaskets and nuts, etc. the only issue I had was that the new oil coolant line banjo bolt was 18mm….old one was 17mm so you can imagine that I tried for a while to get a 17mm socket on a 18mm head. Great video and thanks again for all your help and advice!!!

[@mykline1]

I would have changed the oil and filter also just to have everything start out fresh. Excellent video and very informative. The details, tips and tricks help a lot.

[@josiahyoung8551]

Absolutely fantastic video! I’ve been searching for hours trying to find a good video and here it is! Helped me a lot!!!

[@robst.arnold2920]

Thank you for taking time to make this outstanding video. I went back and watched numerous times during my changout and always found my answer. 👍🏻

[@steved1369]

Excellent video. Just replaced the turbocharger in 2011 Cruze with your instructions. Thanks so much!

[@3BoDTheKeller]

you have smoke ? like smell oil heat

[@jefflunsford6683]

Great video with a lot of critical information. The GM part numbers allowed me to get everything together right from the start without having to go back and forth for a lot of little things. Definitely not a beginner project and it would really help to have tiny hands in this engine bay.

[@Mark-q1l3j]

I regret buying this car lol

[@c.greenlaw7643]

Me too

[@charliebrown2813]

Me three got the turbo replaced by dealer when it was under warranty 1 year later repeat turbo cracked less then 20 thousand miles 👎🏾later

[@BaldHeadedManc]

Chevy sent me a recall letter a couple weeks ago, if you're car is under 120,000 miles they will replace it🤷🏼‍♂️

[@davidj.zamora5017]

I regret dating a girl who owns this car 😂🤣

[@Iamthedude-is5ov]

Seems like all y’all happen to buy lemons. Tuff luck

[@basynl]

This is by far the best video and very nice that you show the handbook

[@2005leeso]

Great informative video, enjoyed the extended in-depth explanation and handy hints and tips along the way thank you.

[@jrsforest187]

Required watching for every Trax owner that intends to hang onto their car.

[@DuanesDiagnostics]

Definitely one of the best repair videos I've ever seen......if not The Best.... Appreciate your knowledge, insight, tips, thoroughness, attention to detail, and all of your time and effort put into making this video. Will definitely be subscribing to your channel......and will kick you a few bucks when I can. Thanks for the Awesome video on this one.

[@MichaelCowden]

Very helpful video. Thank you!

[@robertmedina6875]

This is a great video thank you! Good job most techs don’t wear risk watches so I’m guessing you’re not a tech. Thanks for the info.❤

[@DrShock]

Thanks, I'm an engineer so yeah we wear tech (old beater watch controls the camera). ;-)

[@minhosong5997]

Dr Shock, Thank you so much! You show me the whole process of changing Turbo. I wanted to replace Turbo and oil cooling gaskets, and I could figure it out in detail. I appreciate it, doctor!

[@user-jh3dx9qp6c]

The banjo bolt coolant line from the back of the turbo to the block that everyone struggles to start is much much easier if you take advantage of the quick connect. Install the female connector in the turbo. Don’t plug the line into that fitting yet. Instead, take the line to the block and start the threads of the banjo bolt by hand while the turbo is still off. Leave loose so the line can move. Hang the turbo/manifold on the studs but don’t fully tighten anything yet - have a helper hold it or use only one nut threaded only a couple turns on a stud to prevent it from falling off. Then from below position the line and slide the male end of the line into the female quick connect and click it in. Torque the banjo bolt and make all coolant hose connections and pressure test the system (air only) before torquing everything else down or adding coolant. This is the time to see if you have any leaks in the coolant system. For the line that goes to the cooler, you can go ahead and preinstall into the quick connect because it’s easy to make the hose/clamp connection on the cooler end. Also, having long reach torx bit sockets will make some of the manifold stud nuts easier to install since space is limited around some of the nuts which may prevent some hex sockets from fitting.

[@shaunfagan913]

Hi ,I got a intermittent p0299 comes and goes on my 2017 buick encore, next weekend I'm gonna look at the possibilities you suggested, but I already bought a new turbo on Amazon, lol before I watched your vido,last time I changed the oil it went away for like 2 months now oil change is due again and it's starting again the intermittent p0299 ,anyway thank you so much for the video, awsome job ,🍻cheers

[@SeanBarnard]

Excellent, outstanding, I can't thank you enough!

[@BigOleCaddy]

I have learned that doing the coolant lines for the turbo are much easier if you have a car lift! Especially the one with the banjo bolt into the block.

[@jamesstitt1585]

Thank you very much for such a detailed video I was abit unsure to do this but feel I'll manage it now took your advice and just replace everything while you're in there I've also bought a new oil cooler and assembly so I'll change it all tomorrow. Getting quotes of £1000 + so thanks really appreciated 😀👍🏻

[@DrShock]

Glad it helped. I see you mention UK currency - are you working on an Astra? Just curious what models GM put this engine into overseas.

[@abbasgates9302]

GOOD JOB! I appreciate your time making this amazing video, I have two notes, 1st why don't you use the electric ratchet which makes it easier and quick, the 2nd is you skipped the most important stage the installation of the pipes. Thank you!

[@DrShock]

Thanks. I do see the reinstallation of the exhaust pipe, including the torque values covered. I also went over how to install the oil feed pipe and coolant feed pipe into the turbocharger. I don't spend as much footage/time on reassembly as disassembly as it's quite repetitive. Or were you referring to something else.

[@chaos1291975]

i know this is a older video but i love how you do your work right to the T . i know if you skip something from the manual i know you are still going to do it right unlike some other people who wanna heat up the turbo split it in half and all that crazy stuff. you have been a life saver on this car for me. my daughter has a 14 encore and her grandmother has a 13 encore so i have to do a lot of work to them.and the Buick are very hard to find info on. and the service manuals are 600.00 dollars . and i could not find a chiltens or a hanes manual. and i am only looking for torque specs and have a very hard time finding them. but i did find you and i am very grateful. thank you so very much. Have you ever brought any service manuals on pdf ? if so where and was they trust worthy? i see them on ebay but most say the link never works thank you again and i wish you the best.

[@DrShock]

Thanks. Those links in the video description work fine. Some folks don’t get that these books are only available used, so the search link won’t always show availability yet they comment its not working. These books were not intended for the general public, they are for repair shops so not like buying something new at Amazon. ;-)

[@Zeek800]

Excellent video of this process. By the sound of it, a repair like this is going to happen whether that’s in 25,000 miles or 75,000 miles. A smart and much easier preventive maintenance ( other than changing the oil at or just about 5000 miles ) is to replace that inlet pipe that runs under the exhaust manifold and into the turbo. Maybe 5hat will get you much more miles out of the turbo?

[@frankmoreno7835]

Awesome video excellent instructions. Thank you so much. Appreciate you.

[@rontaylor6407]

Thanks for making this! Great video!

[@pr2348]

Danke!

[@geeegeee]

Excellent video, thanks for posting! 👍

[@rafaelmeneses5066]

Great job with this.

[@EddieLeal]

The most common signals that you may have a blown turbo are: The car has noticeable power loss The acceleration of the car seems slow and noisy The car doesn’t easily maintain high speeds There is smoke coming from the exhaust There is an engine fault light on the dashboard The damage to the turbo can be caused by problems such as: Insufficient oil in the system Wrong kind of oil Age and mileage of the car vehicle Damaged seals (causing oil to enter the exhaust system) The longer you drive your car with a blown turbo, the more damage the engine will have and therefore the more costly it will be to repair. Although the car will move with a blown turbo, it would be far more preferable to stop driving it and have the car taken to the garage to have the turbo repaired or a replacement installed. The longer the blown turbo is left without repair, the more damage can be caused to the car’s engine.

[@DuanesDiagnostics]

Thanks!

[@KS_Skyhawk]

Great installation video! Thank you very much! It is concise and contains enough information for even the most inexperienced soul who is brave enough to take on this particular task. He presents with a style that's measured and orderly with way more detail than usually found on KZbin. I searched around for other videos to glean what detail I might be missing here. But I kept referring back here to Dr Shock. Add all the above together you'll find.... the DR knows his stuff. All this experience comes without that "preachy" tone found from some others. With this Dr there's no "Shock" : Just an "Awesome" video. ( >from a George W Bush quote about our military power.... "Shock and Awe" < )

[@racoon126]

Great video!! Thanks

[@meporter69]

Old video... but, at 11 minutes... push the stainless steel clip in and pull up on the connector. No need to remove it.

[@thagerdorn2009]

Great video...BUT you do NOT need the lift brackets on the engine. If it's missing, it's not going to affect a thing. I left mine off because i had an oil leak right around that area

[@DrShock]

Thanks. You need the lift brackets, to lift and service the engine (e.g., to lift and secure the engine while performing a replacement of the engine mount). That's what they are there for. They have absolutely zero to do with an oil leak, as the fastener for the bracket does not penetrate into anywhere oil travels. If you have oil leaking from a lift bracket bolt, you have a crack in the casting.

[@thagerdorn2009]

@@DrShock I didn't say I had an oil leak from the bracket. I'm not that stupid...but it's not a necessary part for the operation of the vehicle. Mine is sitting in my toolbox. It doesn't affect the engine.

[@jerrymaushard3835]

Where did you get that flashlight? Great video

[@kimnach]

My wife complained that her 2018 Trax would hesitate and sputter on the highway and it made it dangerous to merge and pass. No codes set. My original thought was "tune up" because the car has roughly 100k miles on it. I replaced the coil pack, installed new plugs, and replaced that turbo oil line. She said it runs "better" but still will sputter. I took it to work today and it seemed fine until I got off the highway. When the light turned green, I attempted to accelerate; however, it just sputtered for a 1/4mile and blew some smoke. Then it accelerated. Also, I smelled oil in the cabin. Just got home, took off the heat shield and removed the c-clip and actuator arm to test the wastegate arm. I found that the actuator is full of oil. What would be the cause of this? The check valve (PCV) on the intake is still there, the purge valve is functioning, and the diaphram on the valve cover is ok (no air rushing in).

[@charvakkarpe]

59:50 If you want the two little O-rings for the other end of the pipe, I use little green ones made for BMW's that I got off FCP Euro. I can look up the part number if anyone cares. Those are the ones that harden and leak so I'd plan to change them out every 60k miles while keeping the stainless steel pipe.

[@DrShock]

If you are reusing the oil feed pipe here, and it's the revised design with the heat shield to prevent oil from clogging up the inside, then the GM part number for the o-ring is in the video description. A new GM pipe will include these already as well.

[@charvakkarpe]

@@DrShock Oh yeah, GM also sells those little O-rings but with the price and shipping cost it ends up being about the same to replace the whole pipe. I already had the updated pipe and it's stainless steel so I didn't feel like throwing it away just for two O-rings. Anyway, I think another part suggestion is the Dorman 667-520 oil return tube. They use cast aluminum and corrugated metal instead of the plastic that falls apart. Why use another OEM plastic piece when you can upgrade to a better design?

[@DrShock]

Finding _Dorman_ and _upgrade_ appearing in the same sentence is almost always going to be an oxymoron situation. ;-) The return tube is supposed to be _somewhat_ rigid yet able to partially flex from normal engine operation, which is why it's constructed of synthetic materials. You should only be looking at replacement cost of this part when replacing a turbocharger. So like gaskets, a normal and expected maintenance cost with this GM engine design.

[@charvakkarpe]

Speaking of normal maintenance on this engine, I've replaced the plastic coolant outlet junction on my car and on a random stranger's car. Used a plastic replacement from a local parts store both times because there wasn't time for an online order. Do you replace them with OEM or have you considered an aluminum version? Sometimes it's not clear if GM uses plastic to save cost or to avoid corrosion. I understand how inserting an aluminum fitting into the engine block where the original design is plastic could be very risky. With an external coolant pipe, I'm not so worried. I should keep an aluminum coolant outlet in stock for next time because the plastic ones are known to break routinely. It's actually a great engine once you get everything sorted out but little issues like these destroy people's trust in it. You're right in general about Dorman but they do have some well known upgrades like the Pentastar aluminum oil cooler to fix the cracked plastic OEM ones.

[@EddieLeal]

Turbo creates a-lot of heat. Those engines have plastic components that with time fall victim to the high temperatures of these turbos.

[@자세히-w7t]

감사합니다 감사합니다

[@gmgmtl]

Lots of videos on how to fix this and that on this engine. Wish someone would post one on how to rebuild it for reliability and a bit of a power of a power boost.

[@sandeeprao20a]

Awesome video, best for turbocharger replacement. Really appreciate the information and knowledge you are sharing and saving money of others. One question what is the torque specification for installing back new studs in engine block. Also which anti seize you have used on stud and copper nuts. thanks

[@DrShock]

Thanks! No anti-seize called for in the GM factory service procedure, the fact that the fastener nut is a copper clad/plated one is all that is needed there for that concern. I guess I forgot to mention that the service manual did not disclose any exhaust manifold stud torque value for the 1.4L Ecotec engine. When I run into an unknown torque situation like this, for a steel stud into an aluminum head or block, I just bottom the stud out by hand snugly. It's unfortunately subjective. Secure enough not to walk, calmed down enough not to strip aluminum threads.

[@sandeeprao20a]

@@DrShock thanks a lot!

[@StrongBarnes90]

1:20 - Beginning of engine bay components reinstall

[@crosssalem4129]

Hey man I have a 2018 Chevy Cruze lt 1.4. I’m looking for a new turbo. I’ve seen some that look like yours but others that look somewhat different. Your tube has like a curve to it. But I’ve seen some that don’t have it. Any chance you know the correct one?

[@brianbeeks9890]

Awesome video, I'm about to change mine. I have the same problem. Same sound, except I have black soot on right side of the engine by the exhaust manifold. Hopefully it's just the gasket and not the turbo but hey I'll find out. Thank you

[@RandoManFPV]

I wonder how important that bolt pattern is lol I kinda just gave it some wiggles and dispersed the right turns amongst all the studs as I went. Got dark on me so I guess we will see how it goes in the morning 😅

[@bandsdean]

Quick question to anyone who may know the answer. With the assembly still installed and to get better access to the lower manifold nuts, could you disconnect the actuator rod and remove the v-clamp shown at the 56:00 minute mark and separate the manifold from the turbo assembly? Thanks for any and all help and yes, this is a great video!

[@DrShock]

Thanks. You can separate the exhaust manifold from the turbocharger unit, but it is not an approved service procedure by GM. GM does not offer the exhaust manifold as a separately serviceable part number, nor the v-clamp that secures it. Technically the v-clamps are one time use parts, being torque to yield in nature. So if you went this route, you get into a catch-22 situation. You wouldn't be able to replace the v-clamp as it's not offered for sale, yet it's required to be replaced. ;-)

[@sancheztorres35]

Thanks thats a great video by the way what manual repair book is that I would like to buy one thanks in advance

[@DrShock]

Theres a search link for used copies of the GM shop manual in the description.

[@eli411skate]

Is the book a Hayne’s Repair Manual?

[@DrShock]

No, it's the GM factory manual that's linked in the video description.

[@SenecaHighlander]

I'm about to do this with my wife's Sonic. However, she says she was told that it's required that this be done by a smog-certified mechanic. Is this correct as far as you know?

[@DrShock]

I've never heard of such a certification, but I'm from the southeastern USA where it's not a thing. I could imagine certain states outside the south may have more formal emissions related requirements for businesses performing repairs for a fee. Doing the repair yourself negates such concerns of course. You have the right to repair your own property. The challenge is limited to having the right tools, OEM parts, technical skills, and OEM technical information to do so.

[@wicked207]

Wow man amazing video! Can I ask if you ordered all the parts straight from GM or from a dealership? If straight from GM how is that done? I have a 2011 cruze LTZ

[@DrShock]

You can buy from the dealership but that would be the most expensive route. I have links in the description where you can get these from Amazon and/or eBay instead for alot less.

[@wicked207]

@@DrShock oh you do get then through Amazon and others.. Ok i wasn't sure you could get genuine parts through them. Ok great thank you

[@wicked207]

@@DrShock I also punch in some of the part numbers you provide in to Amazon and eBay and wrong parts come up. So all in trying to ask is how you got all the OEM parts in the video. Is it a combo of from dealerships and online sites or just online or direct from GM or is this like a secret machanics keep to themselves lol 😊👍

[@DrShock]

None of the parts were purchased at a GM dealership. That's too expensive. All were purchased online. Not sure why you're seeing wrong parts from the links, just checked them and they all look fine.

[@keithbutler7896]

eBay sent me a few from GM, didn't notice till I opened them

[@keithbutler7896]

So that banjo bolt, do I have to drop the ac compressor cause my socket won't go on

[@DrShock]

You should not have to touch the AC compressor for most vehicle types. But others have commented that the clearance on the Chevrolet Trax SUV is very very tight compared to the passenger car model I am showing. You need to be using a shorty socket, smallest height to fit in that space.

[@elmayimbe_the_amateur_mechanic]

Getting ready to attempt this next week. Told the customer $650 with the new turbo assembly, oil, coolant and PCV lines and labor. Looks like I can do it in 4 hours. Fair price? $250 for parts and $400 for labor?

[@DrShock]

For that price it can't be genuine GM parts. Understand the failure rate on those Chinesium turbos is measured in months, not years. Labor wise you're in the neighborhood.

[@elmayimbe_the_amateur_mechanic]

@@DrShock, so stay away from the Chinese turbo!

[@Bookbagfilms]

I may have leaked coolant when draining the coolant return line into the oil feed opening underneath, should I be worried? Or drain oil system? 22:00

[@DrShock]

It would be unlikely to be enough getting in there to warrant an immediate _panic_ but oil changes/filters are cheap. So once the job is complete and you've successfully tested everything you could address this concern with an oil and filter change immediately thereafter.

[@1Patient]

What LED light are you using? Braun? 🔦

[@DrShock]

In this video I believe it was yes.

[@1Patient]

I did some research with google lens and found your light. Apparetnly they make a Braun 500 now, so, that's what I'm gonna buy. I have a weeping turbo cooler line, ya that one behind the turbo lol. I didn't know that a cracked turbo made a sound 🤔 I will have to go listen and compare. Do you throw any codes when that happens?

[@DrShock]

This was a customers vehicle, no codes just the exhaust manifold failure / exhaust leak causing it to fail state inspection.

[@ladyshiva69]

where did you get manual and how much 19 buick encore

[@DrShock]

There should be a link in the description to search for an used set.

[@TheMegamanDX]

This is a great tutorial. Um so the #8 bolt on mine is right up against the exaust so much that there isnt enough clearance to get a socket(used a thin socket) in there to remove it. What should i do?

[@DrShock]

Thanks. If you're referring to the copper clad nuts, you can use either an outside socket or an inside bit for those. There are no bolts retaining the exhaust manifold on a factory setup, just studs.

[@TheMegamanDX]

Yes i am. Thank you for the info

[@carlosestrada298]

Yup. That's a GM Chevrolet....

[@timothynewton4453]

What manual do you have?

[@DrShock]

The official GM service manual, same info as the dealerships use but in hardcopy form. You can sometimes find them used from the search link in this video's description.

[@PrismWarp]

Dr Shock is it possible to get P/N 55567067 coolant return pipe and the connector P/N 25199813 replaced without pulling out the whole turbo charger? My mothers car is forming a drip where this pipe enters the connector and it ends up hitting the hot exhaust pipe under it and smells. Before I saw your video I though this tube was similar to a flared brake line and thought I can tighten it. I was able to get a wrench to it from underneath by taking the wheel housing out and AC pump & belt but tightening did not work, it helped but still had some leaking I think the O-ring or seal is faulty on this connector.

[@DrShock]

Since you've already attempted to access this fastener, you can see that access is _extremely_ limited without removal of the full assembly. I would say this is not practical or economically feasible (i.e., it will end up being faster, less stressful, and take less labor time overall to just remove the assembly to replace the cooler lines). You should replace them both btw, as if the seal has gone on one the others are not far behind.

[@PrismWarp]

Thanks for the reply. Your video was most informative. The car is my mothers she only has 22k miles on it and uses it for trips to Casino and Sams Club. You are correct its to tight in that area to work on those lines. I did call Dealer and they quoted me $1038 + tax which included parts and labor. They suggested replacing both lines as you stated. They had to order the parts so I had to pre-pay $350. Since two coolant lines does not cost that much I can assume they will be removing the Turbo which probably is all the other gaskets/seals & coolant that you mentioned that were only one time use and would be needing replacement.

[@DrShock]

You could use my video, referencing all of the parts that the GM service manual says _must_ be discarded and replaced, to confirm what all they are covering in that fee on top of the labor itself. Don't be shy about asking when you don't see a part the manual says _must_ be replaced, not being replaced, since you are going to the actual GM dealer here. ;-)

[@путентрусузурпаторубийцаитерро]

how is this service manual book named?

[@DrShock]

There's a search link in the description, they sometimes show up used. You can also find this sort of information by subscribing to an online service information feed.

[@путентрусузурпаторубийцаитерро]

@@DrShock oh, really. i didn't find it in these bunch of links :) thank you for the useful video

[@DrShock]

Yeah, it's the last one in the list. Alot of parts in this level of job. ;-)

[@br000gle]

Is that coolant inlet banjo bolt thing always 17mm? Cause I can’t for the life of me get it to turn and I can’t barely see the thing or even reach it with my head to check if my socket is going on or not. Idk how you made that part look so easy lol

[@br000gle]

For whatever reason, on my 2017 chevy trax, it was an 18mm instead 😵‍💫 after an hour of thinking I just couldn’t catch the fastener blind, it was just bigger the whole time 😅 Jesus Christ lol

[@DrShock]

There's a few flavors of this 1.4L Ecotec engine, I put the regular production option (RPO) codes for the ones that this video is specific for in the description. It could be that you have a different RPO engine and it's a different size, or that the Trax just uses a different part/size there, or the tube is an aftermarket part rather than original GM there.

[@br000gle]

@@DrShockcould be either/or yeah. All I know is I’m really thankful for this video right now lol. The compressor on this hunk of junk is also mounted slightly different and ends up obscuring 1/8th of the freaking banjo bolt, making it impossible to back all the way out with a socket/ratchet. I can’t wait for this job to be over 🤣 thanks again for the awesome video!

[@sethshields8301]

​@@br000gleDid you ever get past the compressor? I can't get past it really pissing me off

[@E_Legal_Alien]

How much of this applies to an 1.4t LE2 engine turbo procedure?

[@DrShock]

I'm not experienced with that engine RPO. But I would expect there will be similarities in the procedure. I'd also expect there will be a different service manual layout with different part numbers and designs for some components, different size fasteners with different torque values involved. GM ended up using the 1.4L engine/turbo layout of the LUV/LUJ RPO I go over here (which came out in MY 2011) in parallel with the other 1.4L designs like the LE2 (which came out in MY 2016), in the years this video covers, depending on the vehicle model. So you do have to take note of the RPOs.

[@cyn1calsphere]

Does anyone know if there is a part no. for the retaining clip on the wastegate actuator wiring harness?

[@DrShock]

Are you referring to those small plastic safety clips that prevent the connector from being accidentally disconnected? Or the actual retaining tab molded into the connector housing? I'm not aware of the former being separately serviced by GM, so an LKQ salvage yard is probably the only bet for those. But for the actual connector your local GM dealer can look that up in an ACDelco catalog for a replacement pigtail that you can solder onto the existing wiring harness.

[@johnmitchell2741]

the 2016.5 and newer engines are completely redesigned.just fyi.. so are the manifolds

[@DrShock]

Thanks. Yeah GM shows fitment for the turbocharger part number 25201063 for all models, 2011 thru 2020, with the 1.4L Turbocharged engine with RPO LUJ or LUV. These are the first two Ecotec 1.4L variants. The newer engine you mention was an RPO LE2, and it is different. But apparently the older engines continued to be used in some models somewhere even after 2016.

[@ioncalugaru923]

Hello. Do you have the repair book for the astra j 1.4 turbo in pdf format? Can you post it here or tell me where I can get it, I can't find it to download it on the internet. I'm from Romania. Thank you very much.

[@DrShock]

No, I'm only familiar with North American GM models.

[@brianmunger5503]

Does this not cover a 2016 Chevy Malibu?

[@DrShock]

No, this engine was not used in any Malibu models.

[@josephduerr278]

Where did you get the service manual? I've been looking on eBay and other places

[@DrShock]

The cheapest source would be that link I have in the description. But if you look in your owners manual, you'll find that GM partners with Helm to print their service manuals. You can order those from www.helminc.com/helm/search_service_owner.asp?Style=helm&class%5F2=CHV

[@Rebel1280]

Im surprised no one has come out with a better aftermarket solution for this poor design.

[@jeremygrady1107]

Dr.Shock, is it possible for this turbocharger to cause the engine to overheat? The Buick dealer told her that her turbo overheated and caused her engine to overheat. They pulled 2 codes and listed them as; P00299 Engine underboost Turbo/Super charger underboost Secondary DTCs P00B7: Engine coolant flow insufficient Most likely solution Replace Turbocharger assembly ‐------------------------------------------- So I ask again; Can the turbo cause the engine to overheat? I can't find a definitive answer and I need to know. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you. I appreciate you. ~ Jeremy

[@DrShock]

Possibly, impossible to say for sure in a comment board of course. But let's go thru a _potential_ scenario. The first code is directly related to the Turbocharger. The second code _could_ be indirectly related. The Turbocharger has a feed pipe to keep fresh motor oil flowing to it for lubrication and cooling. And in addition the Turbo has a coolant hard line running to it to keep it cool with fresh DexCool. So one possibility for what she was told is that a leak developed in the Turbo cooling line, which _if_ that happened, could cause a Dexcool coolant loss that eventually affects the engine cooling overall. Eventually. But that's just one theoretical possibility from the info you've shared. The dealership service manager should be explaining these root cause details tbh. I would simply ask them to connect the dots for you, where specifically did the Turbo fail that then affected the overall engine? Asking what did they do to confirm this is not a multi-point failure (i.e., another cooling system component has also failed in parallel). Typically the best mechanics to work on your late model GM vehicle are at going to be employed at the GM dealership. But quality can vary greatly from dealership to dealership like with anything else in business, and so it's important to develop a long term relationship with one dealer you can trust that is willing to spend the time to make you comfortable with what you are going to pay them for.

[@jeremygrady1107]

@@DrShock I will share the information with them and encourage them to start a dialogue with the service advisor and should that fail to speak with the technician and, if necessary, the service manager at the Buick dealership that they use. I have never seen such an anemic service form given to a customer before. I wish that I could share it with you so you can see what I mean. I have worked for Cadillac, GMC, Oldsmobile, Infiniti, BMW and numerous other dealerships (all under ONE business umbrella) and NONE of those dealership's service departments would have given a customer so little information about a major and COSTLY repair as this dealership gave to my friend's Daughter.

[@ioncalugaru923]

Or GM Ecotec 1.4L Cruze / Sonic book repair.I have the same engine on the Astra j.Thanks

[@DrShock]

In the USA, posting a PDF would be a copyright violation on GM's property, so that's not going to happen. But you can _buy_ one of these service manuals for USA models like the Chevrolet Cruze, Sonic, or Trax from GMs service manual printing partner here - www.helminc.com/helm/search_service_owner.asp?Style=helm&class%5F2=CHV There's also a link in the description where you might find an used one on eBay.

[@ioncalugaru923]

@@DrShock Ok,thanks

[@vadik540]

Покажи заменить генератор😎

[@robertolson7304]

Sounds horrible. My car has only 15000 miles and sounds horrible. Im never buy chvy again.

[@emmanuellutterodt-oz6ol]

I Also Regret Seriously for buying this car. For the last 4yrs Repairs Repairs. Right now is also in a Workshop doing a Turbo Charger Very very very Disturbing car to have Chevrolet Cruze

[@rockytop4]

Garret turbos last 1 million miles with little maintenance crack don't hurt ..only waste gate not closing..of waste gate bussings

[@sethshields8301]

None of these Garrett's will last a million even in a perfect environment

[@brianmashburn648]

@DrShock This video was very helpful. My turbocharger is making the same noise as yours was but I am blowing huge amounts of white smoke as the same in this video (kzbin.info/www/bejne/nX_FdYifma-ckLc). I am hoping to determine that the turbocharger is just the problem. Took to a local auto repair shop and he said the motor was blown, but I am not so easy to believe that. Do you suggest any way that I can bypass the turbocharger so rule out the engine being blown? Any helpful suggestions is appreciated.

[@DrShock]

It's odd the shop was not more specific as to the diagnosis, usually part of what you would pay for in a diag fee is to reveal this information. White exhaust from a gas engine is either coolant, or oil, or both. Perhaps there is both a turbocharger issue, and another internal engine issue the shop identified driving their diagnosis. Or, perhaps the shop just didn't want to put too much diag time into it and stopped after the first issue they found. Really can't say from what you've shared. But a turbocharger is far too expensive to load into a parts cannon. ;-) You, or a different shop, have to do a more detailed diagnosis. Remote diagnosis isn't really possible here, but if I came across this problem, I would do the following: - I would pull the scan codes, even if the check engine light isn't lit. The codes, even history ones, can help point to a confirmation of a diagnosis. Particularly for the turbocharger. - I would be looking to isolate the source of the noise. Is it coming from the turbo? Is it coming from the exhaust manifold? Or, worst case, is it coming from inside the engine itself. The latter could indicate game over, repair cost wise. - I would check for signs of coolant loss at the reservoir, or if I had bubbles in the coolant reservoir while the engine was running (or right after being shut down). If I had this, I would perform a chemical test for exhaust gases being present in the coolant. Exhaust gases would condemn the head gasket, at a minimum, and again reach game over, repair cost wise. Without any scan codes indicating otherwise, there's no real way to diagnose this further without an advanced scan tool like GMs GDS2 app and MDI adapter. What you would do next is check the boost levels on the turbo, to determine if it is functioning within specification, using GDS2 to monitor the live sensor data. A turbo with internal damage is unlikely to be functioning within specification, though it may be limping along well enough not to trigger the check engine light just yet. The stage after that is a partial tear down to inspect the turbo's turbine for internal damage, oil leakage (just dropping the forward cat and exhaust pipe like I show in part of my vid). And to inspect the cat for damage, from oil leaks (like in your linked vid) or turbo debris (from internal damage). Some of this is beyond the average DIY driveway operation though. You might be better off $$ wise to just pay a large shop, like the Chevrolet dealer, a flat rate diag fee just to root cause the problem(s). What you'll usually get is a laundry list of everything wrong with the vehicle direct from GM for ~$220 bucks (at least in my area) .

[@brianmashburn648]

@@DrShock I removed the oil inlet tube and plugged up the other side of the oil feed inlet with a rubber stopper, which stopped the oil being fed into the turbocharger thus stopped all the white smoke from the exhaust. I believe, like in the video I shared above, the seals inside the turbocharger are blown causing the oil to be fed to be burnt. I used some pliers to move the actuator arm back and forth causing the turbocharger to settle down with the noise. Turns out the auto shop pried off the PVC diaphragm on the valve cover, so the valve cover has to be replaced. Word to the wise to make sure the auto shop you take your car to is familiar with turbochargers. They clearly didn't know what they were doing. I should have taken it to the dealership in hindsight. I ordered all the parts from the very detailed listing you did and hope to have this completed next week when they arrive.

[@DrShock]

@@brianmashburn648 Glad I could help. Yeah, that valve cover damage is unfortunately an all too common sign of inexperience with modern GM engines. That part is *not* a PVC diaphragm smh. They should know that the PVC for the GM Ecotec 1.4L is part of the intake manifold (silicone flapper bypass valve type) and turbocharger cross over pipe (two piece design). That timing cover part is a vent, which is now destroyed. I'm guessing your shop incorrectly focused on the white smoke as being a head gasket or cylinder head crack (i.e., coolant in exhaust problem). The simple chemical test I suggested, would have eliminated that possibility. Definitely don't take your car there again. ;-)

[@alenmonsyedward7499]

5hr job... every damn bolt was rusted.. spent a whole day.. did the job start the car up to realize.. customer supplied dorman manifold is warped & leaking.. 😑 Dont be a mechanic..

[@DrShock]

All the aftermarket parts for this GM engine tend to be inferior in both fitment and longevity. I've found only the OEM GM parts have the correct fitment and just refuse the work unless the vehicle owner pays for the OEM GM parts.

[@mnewln1800]

If you know what you're doing you do remove the negative battery cable.

[@DrShock]

It certainly won't hurt anything if it makes you more comfortable in doing that. You _have_ to pull power when servicing aspects of the fuel delivery system, or any actively powered electronics circuit. But GM does put that step in there elsewhere, out of an abundance of caution.

[@sancheztorres35]

Where are u located to replaced my turbo for that price

[@DrShock]

That's just the price of the parts, you have to supply the labor yourself. ;-)

[@sancheztorres35]

Oh ok 👍🏻

[@sancheztorres35]

Question on 2013 sonic 1.4 6 speeds manual what is the part number for the fill plug on the top of the transmission please i striped 😢 and any advice to remove it please 😅

[@nnibxx]

So bad GM, looks like poor quality control

[@robert-hr3el]

Im sorry but this video is very misleading for 2015 buick encore. That 17mm coolant nut impossible to get to. Also the two bottom manifold nuts closest to drivers side are same. I could have paid the dealership to do this job and saved $, time and aggravation

[@DrShock]

The Chevy Trax and the Buick Encore are more cramped space wise, but it is the exact same engine as the Sonic and Cruze. I would hate to see anyone get fleeced by the GM dealer rates for out of warranty work. It's *always* going to be cheaper to DIY this job. If you want to give it another go, I'm happy to offer some suggestions here.

[@rafaelmeneses5066]

Just did this today. I recommend all new lines. The coolant line needs to be installed on the block first. A thin 17mm is also very helpful with installation and removal of the 17mm fasteners. Also if you are replacing the parts it’s just easier to cut the lines and remove. Saves time knowing everything is getting replaced anyway.

[@igetnoslep]

@@DrShock I just did the replacement on an 2018 Encore, and Robert is correct in that you can't get a socket on the 17mm. There is a pulley assembly bolted to the block that obscures just enough of the front access that I couldn't get on it even with a thin walled socket. Solution was to cut the coolant line (I used a PVC ratcheting pipe cutter which also makes the oil drain easy to remove), get the turbo out of the way and remove the 17 with an offset wrench. Installation requires mounting the line to the block first, then inserting it into the fitting on the turbo. Not easy but I did it solo. Didn't have any issues with the manifold nuts aside from dropping one and playing hide-n-seek for a while. Took me about 6 hours to complete but I'm slow and messy! Great video!

[@jeremybell2081]

Just did this job. All I have to say is "F@#$ GM!!"! That is all.

[@johnnytyler4968]

UNDER THE CAR?!?! What are us fat people with no lift supposed to do?!?!

[@ah4800]

Whoever bought these couldnt even do 10 minutes worth of research. Junk engine.

[@tedshantz6193]

u tube people get 2 the point

[@hippogjoe]

Very in-depth guide that I’ve watched 3 times at this point for my upcoming replacement tomorrow! I’ve always had a hard time watching repair videos like these because people might gloss over torque-specs or little things that they don’t encounter but you might etc. But you laid it all out greatly! My turbo hasn’t thrown any codes but as far as I know, the unit is close to 11 years old now. So I’ve decided to update her :)

[@JaromMcallister]

By far the best turbo replacement video I've ever seen. I've ordered my parts and hope to get to it next week. I have a 2015 Chevy Sonic 6-speed LTZ. It has 197,000 miles, original turbo (I bought the car new), but I have changed the oil every 5k (instead of 7,500 as recommended) and I use Mobil 1. My turbo isn't dead, but the low boost code came on and I'm willing to bet the thing is cracked.

[@zmazlan]

Did you find out if your turbo was cracked? I've got the low boost code too

[@johnjriggsarchery2457]

Oh man, you gave a lot of us hope that they can go 200K. I definitely change my oil before 5K and now that I'm almost at 40K, it's also time for me to change the tranny fluid and coolant. Fluids cost less than ruined engines and drive trains.

[@yodead369]

Nah, every 3000k. Old standard, best standard.

[@asolvorrom6648]

You are awesome. You take in consideration for "cheap" people like me. The video is awesomely detailed with all the necessary parts numbers. The cinematography is above standards because you make sure every step is filmed completely. Thank you so much for the video!

[@johnscheffler1514]

Great video. Thank you

[@Ed_Cairns]

Thanks so much for such a detailed procedure! Also appreciate seeing what goes “wrong” while replacing the turbo. I know that I’ll be doing this Turbo replacement on my 2013 Cruze in the not too distant future. Very impressed with the depth of your knowledge - watched one of your other video’s regarding replacing the OEM radio in your GM vehicle and the need to reprogram the eeprom to the correct VIN. Excellent information, carefully and well presented!

[@timvines7944]

I wish all DYI videos were this detailed. It’s like going to mechanic school! I’ll be digging into the turbo on my 2015 Buick Encore very soon. I realize Garrett has a very good name for longevity in turbos. However, it’s seems there may be an aftermarket turbo that wouldn’t be prone to cracking and or malfunctioning on these engines. Has anyone tried another brand? I replaced the turbo on my diesel truck with a different brand that had a two year warranty. I paid a little extra to get a lifetime warranty. Please comment if you’ve used a different turbo.

[@The1Karking]

Awesome 😎

[@dandagoveia9377]

I truly commend you for sharing your knowledge with this repair... Thank you so much...

[@pr2348]

Hey Dr Schock, this is a service video!! I just want to say that your vids is amazing. I was really flashed from the kind of details what you used to descripe any steps.. Thanks a lot

[@Michael-yi4mc]

I’d remove the manifold studs to make scraping easier.

[@mattb1967mb]

Should have replaced the oil cooler gaskets while you had it apart...they are notorious for leaking.

[@jessejohnson1156]

Thanks for putting out a great detailed video for this repair project. Questions that I have is what repair manual did you use and where did you find the parts diagram to print out ? Thanks Again! Jesse

[@DrShock]

Thanks. I only use OEM service information when doing repairs. In this video its the hardcopy GM service manual for the Cruze. There's a link in the description where you might find one used. The parts information is available from a GM dealership (which I have access to to print them out as a wholesale shop).

[@Larrythebassman]

Excellent walk through that service manual. Thank you very much.