2011 Volkswagen CC-A/C Blows Warm

[@fieldsofomagh]

Nice piece of detective work. The sniffer tool was very sensitive to small leaks and eases the stress in trying to nail down the problem.The pressure gauges confirmed the leak with the drop in pressure !

[@nicknicu1787]

Thanks for showing both methods. I do the schrader valve trick all the time. Sometimes they stop,sometimes they keep leaking. I've noticed BMWs use schrader valve plastic caps with an O-ring at the bottom and they fit very snug. I don't know how much that prevents them from leaking but I always make sure to put them back,contrary to some I've seen that always make them disappear. Thanks for the video! 👍

[@baxrok2.]

Nice diagnosis Tom. I got a bit confused since you pointed out that the pressure dropped from 54 to 52psi pretty quickly. However, the sniffer/dye tools indicated an extremely small leak. Anyway, thanks for sharing the diag!

[@jakeoliver1674]

the compressor load is off bro , needs a compressor and drier too . if its a sanden compressor could just need the valve . compressor load at lets say 80 deg should be around 5 nm at 6 bar of refrigerant pressure . we do compressors like its going out of style down in the south . just a suggestion all your videos are very informative and precise keep up the good work

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

Jake oliver I don't think there was enough refrigerant in the system for the compressor to pump in this case. Do you ever use remaunfactured compressors?

[@jakeoliver1674]

Andrew Thompson oem is usually the dealer option, I have heard of people using reman but not a very reliable source

[@johnaclark1]

Those schraeder valves are annoying. I've tried the trick you did and it rarely works for me. Maybe I'm doing it wrong. I finally bought the Mastercool 58490 kit that lets you change them out without having to recover the refrigerant. You never know they're bad until you're all done and it's a drag to have to do it again just for those. Sniffer tool is next on my tool list, though.

[@haywardsautomotive6156]

That's a great kit and saves a ton of time. I also use the Mastercool 91337 R-12/R-134a Valve Core Repair Kit and change them out before I vacuum a system or can use the cores from the kit if they need to be changed out under pressure. Amazon has great prices also on the detectors.

[@roadkill5333]

I just watched an A/C video, just the other day!! Your friend and mentor, ScannerDanner, a.k.a Dan (which as we all know is short for Paul)!! Nice find, even though that leak is just within the technical specs of being called an actual leak, it could have been hours hunting for something so small!! Perhaps a lil bit o soapy water, would have helped, since there was still pressure!! I learned my lesson with the service valves, THE HARD WAY!! I had a high side service port leaking once! Didn't think about it!! Held a vacuum for ever while I checked it!! Leaked down in a couple days!! I chased that rabbit around and around, until I thought about the port!! Ding, found it!!

[@andrewk778]

Another interesting and informative video. I especially liked the tip about the service port leak. Thanks for sharing.

[@rpsspain1966]

Good Video. straight forward diagnostic technique.

[@rrmech11]

Tommy your starting to look like a Wolf with the hair and all. Lol nice job

[@AbhishekVerma-pg7ku]

Hey i have issue on used 2013 cc 2.0 turbo my heat is not working only blow hot air on driver side not on the passenger side on the heat work on windshield mode what should do to take care

[@ralfsautomotive]

Since it has charge and is not just blowing refrigerant out why not connect the AC Machine and up the pressure? That would make it easier for that tool to detect the leak. If a schrader valve leaks at any time it should be replaced regardless. They even make tools to replace them without any loss of Refrigerant.

[@IntradeMotors]

Good to see a propper AC diagnosis video. Nitrogen must be used not air is what you referring to the one you got crap over. I did not give you crap on that vid but who ever did probably did so rightfully. I will say something if you do something extreme wrong remember your a professional so the tollerance is set low for professional channels before I say something. just a warning professional must act like ones. ...

[@PositiveLeadDiagnostics]

I agree that if you have nitrogen available then use it but what if you don't? Do you really think that a system that has already been exposed to outside conditions is going to be hurt with a little bit of air for a minute. the system is already saturated. There are worse things out there that people do to vehicles. I'm ok with adding some air to an already exposed system to find a leak and then vac the system back out. There is also a tool that is out there to flush the lines if you wanted to go that far

[@IntradeMotors]

Positive Lead Diagnostics yes I never said anything only mentioned it now because you mention you got the Stick in your other video. Only concern would be with air will it have oil from compressor or is a air dryer moisture extractor etc fitted to air suppy unfiltered compressor tank drained correct of condensed water. These questions I would go thru in my head before I would add air in to AC system.

[@PositiveLeadDiagnostics]

Yeah I'm not attacking you just stating my opinion. It's all good

[@IntradeMotors]

Positive Lead Diagnostics Yea no problem I know it's hard to read things the way they are meaning to be at times . All good here also.

[@gman.7123]

hi I wanted to know if you can give me some pointers on the following going to replace the water pump on my 2010 Volkswagen CC 2.0 T. I am not trying to remove the intake in order to get to the water pump.I want to go around that and I have a pretty good idea I've been searching around but any tips that you can give me I would greatly appreciate it. one more thing the bolt that holds the Water Pump Pulley (on Intermediate Shaft) in place what size is that exactly I've done some research and some people say it's an 11 or 12 mm on the outer part of the Bolt. but also I seen some pictures that it looks like it has a triple square inside the bolt in the area of where that bolt is. its a confine space to work in and it looks like you cant get a ratchet in there to remove or to torque it to the correct amount.

[@PositiveLeadDiagnostics]

you have to remove the charge tube and throttlebody and you will have access to the water pump without pulling the intake manifold, and when it comes to that intermediate shaft bolt, you don't have to even touch it, just loosen up the t30 bolts that hold the waterpump and maneuver it to where you can slip the belt off and do the same thing going back together

[@bobbobby5724]

Well done fantastic, from London

[@slaglauz]

Is this a joke? So he measured a pressure loss of 3 psi in around 5 minutes? The system would have been empty a long time ago...

[@ivan90815]

what if my vw 2.5 blows cold but then as your driving it seems as if the vents close up . the air still blows just doesnt blow out the front vents. if I choose the ECON or AUTO switch on the ac it starts to blow cold out the front vents again untill it warms up. if I turn the a.c off and back on it blows properly, and cold...untill it does the same thing...starts to blow war and vents seem to close.. this only happens when its hot... havent had an issue all year long till summer hits any advice

[@PositiveLeadDiagnostics]

The ac temp blows warm and the flow is decreased? If you turn it off how long until it blows cold again? I’m thinking maybe you have an expansion valve problem where it’s spraying too much refrigerant and your evaporator is freezing

[@markusdd5]

Apparently the more you know about Volkswagen, the more your beard grows xD Just kidding, great video as always :)

[@rrmech11]

Markus Krause that was hilarious. I just commented something similar prior to reading all the comments.

[@gman.7123]

just to be clear I can just swap out the complete water pump assembly and I should be good to go. no need to replace the belt that runs the water pump, the bolt Thats holds the pulley and the shaft pulley?

[@PositiveLeadDiagnostics]

You should be ok just replacing the water pump and some orings

[@gman.7123]

thank you very much I'll keep you posted on how it works out

[@sandyande]

thanks tommy, sandy

[@kaloiankrastev6851]

Hi what type of scanning tool is that/? Thanks

[@PositiveLeadDiagnostics]

Snap on verus pro

[@thebigbosss1000]

How much does all this cost ??

[@motorcyclesandridingfree2899]

That sniffer is annoying I like my robinair sniffer its made for both the old and new refridgerant and it dont beep like the snapon one

[@haywardsautomotive6156]

The Snap-on you can silence it and it is good for both refrigerants also but the RobinAir & MasterCool are equivalent but I don't know how sensitive they are. The Snap-On one he was using will detect a .5 oz leak per year. The detector I have has a UV light you can use without the glasses and the sensitivity is .05 oz per year.

[@motorcyclesandridingfree2899]

Hayward's Automotive They are more sensitive and meet a higher standard. The snapon you cannot use on the 1234yf as its a heated penthrode where Robinaire is infrared making it safe for 1234yf refridgerant which is flammable. Robinaire specs at 1/10th of a ounce a year

[@haywardsautomotive6156]

Correct the one I use is .05 oz per year and has a UV light you don't need UV glasses. 1234yf is so expensive...crazy! 1234yf @$1650 for a 25 lb tank and R134a is @$125 for a 30 Lb tank

[@NewLevelAuto]

Missing ..... ah nevermind.😉 Pressure sensor .. let's see how I do .

[@NewLevelAuto]

See I'm never right lol

[@roadkill5333]

New Level Auto Keep trying, Keith! Even a blind squirrel finds an acorn every once in a while!

[@NewLevelAuto]

roadkill5333 I was still right ya know 😎

[@thebigbosss1000]

For a A/c recharge on a 2012 VW CC 2.0t

[@zubairkhan-gf3gt]

Hello

[@suntoritime]

Hello

[@scottholder4776]

🖕

[@roadkill5333]

Hey!!

[@swav100]

Only you can prevent forest fires!!!!

[@maskorie2714]

Kompresor jelek 🤔