2013-2016 Ford Escape Coolant Bypass Valve Fix - DTC Code P26B7: HOW TO ESCAPE

This video is for you if your in need of replacing your Coolant Bypass Solenoid, and/or have check engine light (CEL) code "P26B7".
Coolant Bypass Solenoid: amzn.to/40atdMe (Affiliate Link)
Hose Clamp Pliers: amzn.to/2HR5NnT (Affiliate Link)
The above links are Amazon Affiliate links- this means the Amazon pricing is what it normally is, but our channel gets a small commission on every referral through our links- therefore, if you purchase a component through our links, it's more funding for more videos, so thank you for the support!
The coolant bypass solenoid is a component to temporarily shut off the path of coolant through your engine block to heat up your engine faster during winter temperatures. Once the engine is up to temp, the valve opens again and coolant flows regularly.
Overall, this is not a difficult job- just tight quarters. It's recommended to jack up your vehicle to remove your splash shield and place a dri-p pan underneath to catch the coolant which you'll lose in this procedure.
***A community member shared their experience doing this on FordEscape.org here (www.fordescape.org/threads/fo..., which is where I got most of this advice, so thank you very much @Tanat! These instructions involved taking the hose off first and then the 8mm bolts.
I had extreme difficulty finding the space and leverage to remove the hose from the solenoid even with the hose clamp loosened. Therefore, this video suggests removing the 8mm bolts FIRST so that the solenoid can be more easily handled, THEN loosen the hose clamp and pull it free. This is what I found to be easier, but please let me know what you think in the comments below. ***
Tools Needed:
- 8mm socket, swivel, and extension
- Hose Clamp Pliers
- Extra coolant
- Coolant Drip Pan
- Torx or hex driver for removing splash shield retainers
- Jack stands and jack for raising front of vehicle to access splash shield
- Flat head screwdriver if needed to aid with rubber hose removal
Please LIKE, SHARE, and SUBSCRIBE if you found this video helpful!
Thanks for watching How To Escape :)

[@bobn27613]

Thanks for the video - easy to follow

[@joycesmith-brown7164]

Thank you! Video done very well, easy to follow!

[@brandtclupper9355]

Great video, you made it so easy for me. Thank you 🥳

[@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews]

Sorry for the delay in response, Brandt- glad this video was helpful to you! Hope your ride goes smooth for you here on out! Please let us know if there's anything in specific you'd like to see if we don't have a video yet and we'll do our best to pull it off :) Thanks for being a subscriber!

[@ernestotanguma936]

Excelente explicación y las imágenes súper bien. Muchas gracias

[@Bondnh007]

Great video and very informative! I will use this as guidance to replace mine in my 1.6L Ford Fusion.

[@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews]

Glad it may be able to help! Please give a shout if you have any questions

[@martybender8161]

Loved video very helpful

[@qslsyl]

I have a 13 escape 2.0L, and I was told by the dealer that there is some coolant loss through a plastic T-joint. Not sure whether that is the same as this, but after topping up my coolant I haven’t seen its level go down much. Nice videos btw, going to be very helpful for me to do some of the things that I can DIY.

[@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews]

Hey and thanks for the comment and for checking out the channel! Dont think it's the same thing since this is a solenoid valve and not just a t fitting- this video also isnt related to coolant loss, but moreso how to replace a failed coolant redirect valve. I do know these cars are prone to coolant loss though- just gotta stay vigilant which it sounds like you are :) thank you for the feedback on the videos- would love to know if they continue to help as you journey with your vehicle!

[@ibcrenacimiento7478]

Perfect! Thank you very much!

[@mayrapaloma]

Very helpful thanks!

[@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews]

Thanks for the feedback and for checking out the channel!

[@ZGoddessLola]

Nice and clear videos. What about codes P008A, P008B, P018C in 2.0 Liter engine 2013-2016 4WD Escape

[@DeanEdington]

Thanks for this - made it a breeze aside from having to search for one of those bolts in the engine compartment for a good while since it slipped out of my hand. Is there a torque rating on those bolts or just wrench tight?

[@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews]

Awesome! Im sure there is a torque spec but I just did hand tight and one more crank with these tiny socket I had. Glad you got what you needed!

[@seangray1029]

My wife just had it replaced in January and today got the code. Does this part need replacing often? If not, is there anything in particular I can look for to fix whatever is tripping the error?

[@coxdroneservices]

Is there any issue with not draining the coolant and refilling while doing this repair? I've been reading that introducing air into the coolant system can put you at risk of overheating. Does the air go away on it's own? or how does that work? I'm getting ready to do this repair myself, but would like to avoid draining the system as well as potentially worse problems down the line if I don't drain it.

[@HolmesFans2]

Replaced yesterday on mine. That hose was sooo hard to get off. I had a mechanic replace most of the coolant system once before. The hose was held on by a screw hose clam(?). They must have replace it. That came off easy, but I had to use a wrench to get in between the hose and the valve and use every muscle I had. The left screw came out easily after I got it a little free. The right one I had to ratchet it out almost the entire way out and back in. Was a pain with my limited tools. Just putting it out there for anyone else reading. Check engine light did not immediately turn off. So I'm hoping it just takes a full drive cycle. Waiting on that instead of manually resetting. Has me worried that yours immediately turn off though :(

[@michaelkloeckner6353]

Thanks for this video. I'm wondering if my 2016 2.0 eco motor has this ? My escape is not warming up all the time. No check engine light yet. Also I'm thinking I sould replace the thermostat to. Any help from you would be greatly appreciated

[@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews]

Hi Michael- so sorry for the delay in response! I was doing a bit of research and I never realized this but I can't seem to find anything with the 2.0 Eco's and this bypass valve- doesn't mean it isn't part of the engine (for sure) but I haven't seen anything yet- you could be right in your question. As for the TSTAT, that is usually associated with cooling in the summer months, but it could be related- not sure yet. Do you have any engine codes showing up / Check Engine Light? Thanks for commenting/asking and of course for subscribing to the channel! Hope we can help you sir.

[@michaelkloeckner6353]

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews wow.. Thanks for doing the research. No check engine light or codes. I always watch the temp gage because running a car hot does alot of damage. The temp gage goes about half way to it normal running temperature and then it moves back down a little then slowly makes it's way to the normal running temperature. In the last six years it's never done this. I'm getting ready to dive about 6000 miles in a month of snow birding out west and am hoping I don't have to have a repair done on the road. So far I don't really know what to replace so I'm just going to hit the road. Bye the way over the last six years I've had two radiator flushes. Thanks Again.

[@HolmesFans2]

Just had this fail for the second time during an emissions test. Sounds like living in TX this part rarely even fires. How hard would the fix be without the ratchet extender and hose clamp tool?

[@HolmesFans2]

Does the part usually fail in the open position allowing the coolant to flow like normal? Or does anyone really know?

[@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews]

@@HolmesFans2 The cylinder can fail in either of the 2 positions unfortunately. It's usually open and allows the coolant to flow through the intended path. It's when the solenoid actuates and it actually prevents coolant from entering the specific area of the engine block to help it heat up faster in the winter time. That's the real purpose of the bypass solenoid... As for the clamp tool, if you have narrow forearms and good grip, you could get away with it using normal pliers or vice grips. It's a pain though and you can always use the hose clamp tool on other jobs in your vehicle as well...just my $0.02, but you could do without it :) Thanks for checking out the channel and good questions!

[@HolmesFans2]

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews Thanks for the reply! Hopefully mine failed in the open. I guess if I drive it around and temps start to rise above normal than I know for sure. I saw you mentioned you drove with it for a year. Did you have the CEL light the whole time?

[@saraheastman9626]

What are the names of the tools you used to help you do this? I had to replace mine literally a year ago and now have to do it again. It’s not too hard to do, it’s just a pain in the rear if you don’t have better tools to help. Any recommendations of things I could get at like Auto Zone?

[@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews]

Hey there Sarah! Thanks for asking- the most unique tool used in this video is the set of "flexible hose clamp pliers". It is a LIFE SAVER getting the hose clamps off in those tight spaces as you can squeeze the handle from outside the engine bay. We have an Amazon affiliate link in the video description and I can also post it here (amzn.to/38duWKw), and if you just google the term "flexible hose clamp pliers" you can see a bunch of options come up at stores near you. They are everywhere and super useful :) Other than that it's just basic sockets and things. Let me know if you have any other questions please!

[@joeysmith5074]

I had this code come on the other day. I replaced the solenoid and the engine light/ code went away. BUT two days later the code came back.. Now I have no idea why… 🤷🏻 The car overheats randomly and now I’m noticing I don’t hear the cooling fans coming on.

[@CA-wi6zn]

When this solenoid fails do u get coolant leak? I have the same engine n having coolant leak and check engine light is on. Thanks

[@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews]

Yes- that can happen but not always. That did happen to me. I actually am going to post a video on that this weekend. There is an o ring on the back of the solenoid that gets smashed and flattened with the heat buildup over time (my theory at least) and mine started dripping from there after that.

[@swldn]

Does this cause air locks when removing the hose After refilling coolant ?

[@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews]

I'm not sure I've ever experienced air lock in specific but air bubbles will be in the system. A lot of it can be pushed through if you just keep adding coolant to get everything back to the original level and replace what drained out. I can only speak from my own experience but I've replaced this solenoid 4 times since 2014 and getting our Escape

[@vincentcosme7464]

It just came on for me today, How long do you think I could go without fixing it?

[@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews]

As long as you'd like to haha, it's your vehicle! I put up with it for about a whole winter before trying to fix it. Best to do it as soon as possible really. I believe mine started sending signals to the computers causing other glitches because it wasn't doing what it was supposed to- just a hunch, but since replacing this solenoid, I haven't had the CEL code OR the other side effect symptoms either...

[@bobkantek7312]

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews did you reset the code and it kept popping back up?

[@jonathansalcedo4314]

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews this is the same as a fiesta st right?

[@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews]

@@jonathansalcedo4314 it went in our 1.6L eco. I believe that's what the Fiesta st has, and if so, yes :)

[@lemniscate2218]

I have the same problem

[@o0Karmaslaugh0o]

If this goes out, does that mean the thermostat is bad too?

[@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews]

Hi Jennifer, not usually... this solenoid valve is a mechanical "gate" if you will, which just diverts fluid one way or another. The mechanical motion is activated by a computer which tells it to act based off of a signal from the thermostat in a different location. If your thermostat is bad, the solenoid may not fire, but the solenoid shouldn't have an effect on the thermostat itself... hope this helps! If not let me know

[@stupidandpointlesvid]

My check engine light comes on maybe once every two weeks and this code comes up and goes away after 3 trips is it something to worry about if its not on all the time

[@stupidandpointlesvid]

Im not over heating and it only comes on when the engine is warming up

[@dreamzsmokey9052]

So I replaced this part but still have a check engine light still the same code any ideas why

[@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews]

Hey there - I have had similar experiences- how long ago did you change the solenoid vs still seeing the CEL on your dash? I know mine took a week or so to go away the first time when I did the repair a long time ago. It happened again only a few months ago and I used my code scanner to erase the codes and it didn't come back. Do you have a scanner or have you tried that already?

[@breannadawn3367]

I replaced this but the code will not go.away

[@badactor3440]

If you dont use your heater, you don't need to fix this.

[@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews]

Maybe... sometimes a bad sensor signal can interfere with other parts of your system as well that are looking for that sensors feedback even if its in an inactive state. A sensor will communicate at least 2 states and most times at least one state is in constant monitoring.

[@badactor3440]

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviewsMine failed a while ago, haven't noticed any other issues yet, other than check engine light is always on. I'm in a warm climate.

[@fernandocarrilloconsultori2515]

Mi ford fusion me marca ese código y no enciende ya cambie el solenoide y sigue sin encender alguna idea